Temple, Travel and Sport

A 1000 years ago, the mansions and pillars in Thiru Velliyankudi were so huge and studded with ‘Glittering Gems’ that it was difficult to make out if it was ‘Day or Night’!!!

Beautiful young girls learnt the art of dancing here at Thiru Velliyankudi and the sound from their anklets was heard all around the Kola Villi Rama temple

Through the 1970s and 80s, the Kola Villi Rama temple in Thiru Velliyankudi, praised in all its glory by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar in the Periya Thirumozhi remained a deserted place. There was no public transport to the temple. There still isn’t. There were no proper roads from any direction.

One had to walk through a 5km mud path from Sholapuram that was full of pot holes. There was no electricity along the path and it was difficult to visit the temple in the evenings after 6pm. It was the same story from Thirupananthal or Aduthurai.

The Bhattars lived a lonely life at the temple waiting for the odd devotee to turn up so they could narrate the legendary story of Sukracharya and how he regained his vision here at Thiru Velliyankudi.

Even those who visited the Divya Desams in and around Kumbakonam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2007/06/divya-desams-around-kumbakonam.html) and sought the darshan of Kola Villi Rama found it difficult to reach the temple in the last decades of the previous century.

The scenario is a little better now with cement roads laid out from Sholapuram and Thirupananthal but public transport is still hard to come by to the temple and there are no shops in Thiru Velliyankudi. Renovation activities took place a couple of years back and Samprokshanam was performed just over a year ago.

Now, another generation of the Bhattar (the son of Ramamoorthy Bhattachar) has become an integral part of performing aradhana at the temple,. He also now has the role of doubling up as the cook at the Madapalli for as seen in several remote Divya Desams, it is not easy to find a 'sacred cook'.

Well over a 1000 years ago, the story was lot more joyful and residents lived a prosperous and wealthy life. Thiru Velliyankudi as seen from Thiru Mangai Azhvaar’s praise was a vibrant location with water from the Cauvery gushing in full flow all the time, unlike this week when even during the much ‘talked about’ and the previously ‘un-celebrated Cauvery Pushkaram’ the river remained dry around Kumbakonam.

A Gushing Cauvery

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar in fact begins his praise of Thiru Velliyankudi describing its location as being south of the Manni River (Cauvery) with one hearing the loud noise of the river flowing through in full force.

காய்த்தநீள்கமுகும்கதலியும்தெங்கும்

எங்கும்ஆம்பொழில்களின்நடுவே

வாய்த்தநீர்பாயும்மண்ணியின்தென்பால்

திருவெள்ளியங்குடிஅதுவே

Similarity to Thiru Gnana Sambanthar's praise of Senganoor - Cool Groves all around

The temple was surrounded by huge groves of Areca, Banana and Coconut. There were also Punnai groves and Serundi Trees seen all around the temple and one could hear the buzzing noise of the bumble bees that drank the overflowing nectar humming sweet music in happiness.

Interestingly one finds a similar praise in Thiru Gnana Sambanthar’s Thevaram praise of Senganoor , the birth place of Periya Vachan Pillai(http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/09/periya-vachan-pillai-senganoor.html) and the Sakthi Gireeswarar temple there.

பூநிரைச்செருந்திபுன்னைமுத்துஅரும்பி

பொதும்பிடைவரிவந்துமிண்டி

தென்இறைந்துஉண்டுஅங்கு இன் இசைமுரலும்

திருவெள்ளியங்குடிஅதுவே

Thiru Velliyankudi was home to beautiful dancers. Thiru Mangai Azhvaar praises the location as one where beautiful girls with thin waists practiced the art of dancing. The noise from their anklets reverberated all over Thiru Velliyankudi.

படஅரவுஅல்குல் பாவைநல்லார்கள்

பயிற்றியநாடகத்துஒளிபோய்

அடைபுடைதழுவிஅண்டம்நின்றுஅதிரும்

திருவெள்ளியங்குடிஅதுவே

The scenario around the temple was quite prosperous as he describes Thiru Velliyankudi as a place that had huge jewelled mansions that were so tall they seemed to be playing with the Sun!!! He goes on to say that as the Cauvery gushed along flowing towards the East, it deposited large quantities of gold as wave after wave lashed the banks of Velliyankudi.

துறைதுறைதோறும்பொன்மணிசிதறும்

தொகுதிரைமண்ணியின்தென்பால்

செறிமணிமாடாககொடிகதிர்அணவும்

திருவெள்ளியங்குடிஅதுவே

In the green fields of Velliyankudi, Valai Fish jumped out in fear of being caught and consumed suggesting that this wasn’t a place for them and they were seen entering the water tank in the temple.

Huge Banana Plantation in Thiru Velliyankudi

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar refers to the Lord as a beautiful archer indicating the posture of him holding a bow in hand. The groves are lush green with Banana plantation. The ripened fruits were falling down for the Kayal fish to grab and eat. And in that joy of having consumed a healthy food, they danced around in the fields. One still finds the Plantain tree, the Sthala Vriksham, inside the temple on the Northern side of the prakara.

கொங் கணை துரந்த கோல வில் இராமன் தன் கோயில்

ஊற்றிடைநின்றவாழையின்கனிகள்

ஊழ்த்துவீழ்ந்தனஉண்டுமண்டி

சேற்றிடைக்கயல்கள்உகள்திகழ்வயல்சூழ்

Pray with a Pure Heart

Even the cuckoos in the groves were a devotional lot moved by the positive vibration around the temple and were seen chanting the name of the Lord ‘Hari Hari’.

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar says that those who offer worship with a pure heart before Lord Kola Villi Rama are sure to be blessed.

அள்ளிஅம்பொழில்வாய்இருந்துவாழ்குயில்கள்

அரிஅரிஎன்றுஅவைஅழைப்ப

வெள்ளியார்வணங்க விரைந்து அருள்செய்வான்

The mansion and pillars were huge and studded with glittering gems so much so that it was even difficult to make out if it was day or night!!!

படியிடைமாடத்துஅடியிடைத்தூணில்

பதித்தபன்மணிகளின்ஒளியால்

விடிபகல்இரவுஎன்று அறிவுஅரிதுஆய

திருவெள்ளியங்குடிஅதுவே

Lotus flowers were seen growing between the huge sugarcane and paddy fields. In the water tanks, swans danced around in pairs playfully.

The Lord in Bhujanga Sayanam

Devotees in huge numbers offered worship to the Lord seen reclining on a serpent and holding a discus in hand.

குடிகுடிஆகக்கூடிநின்று

அமரர்குணங்களேபிதற்றிநின்றுஏத்த

அடியவர்க்குஅருளிஅரவு அனைத்துயின்ற

ஆழியான்அமர்ந்துஉறைகோயில்

The Divya Desam lagged behind in Infra Development

Unfortunately in the infrastructure development that took place over the last century, this historical location was left behind. The good news is that the greenery and the fertile lands that were described in Thiru Mangai Azhvaar’s praise still exist in and around this Divya Desam. But for the devotees who are in a hurry to ‘move on’ to the next temple, this is not an easy one to visit for it takes some effort to reach here.

Like Nathan Koil (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2008/02/108-divya-desam-nathan-koil-nandipura.html), importance has not been accorded to easing the visit of a devotee to this ancient Divya Desam with a legendary tale.

Visiting an ‘Oppiliappan’ temple or a ‘Sarangapani’ temple is the easy option for most. But to those seeking to spend a day in peace in front of and with the Sleeping Lord, seen in a Bhujanga Sayana Posture, this Sukra Sthalam of Thiru Velliyankudi offers an ideal opportunity (The temple is named after the legendary event of Asura Preceptor regaining lost vision as Thiru ‘Velliyan’ Kudi (Tamil name for Sukran is Velliyan). Offering prayers here in this Divya Desam is said to liberate one from Sukra Dosham.

Will the Brahmotsavam be back one day?

With the remote location of the temple and lack of support staff to even carry the Lord, there have been no processions for the Lord for many years, even though Brahmotsavam was celebrated in a grand manner in the century gone by. Garuda and Hanumantha Vahanas are still seen at the temple complex but they do not carry the Lord anymore. It is hoped that efforts will be taken by like-minded devotees to revive the traditional festivals at this ancient Divya Desam including processions on the Vahanas.

The temple is open between 8am-12noon and 4pm-7pm. Contact Ramamoorthy Bhattachar @ 94433 96212.

How to reach

From Kumbakonam, one can get down at Sholapuram (on the Madras Highway) and take an auto 6 kms East (Rs. 150). From Aduthurai, take a Sholapuram bound mini bus to get down at Thiru Velliyankudi. From Thirupananthal, auto costs Rs. 100 to the temple.

One of the 70 Mada Koils built by Ko Chenganan Chozhan

Thiru Gnana Sambanthar praises Senganoor as a prosperous location on the Southern Banks of Cauvery

Located just over 10kms from Kumbakonam off the Madras Highway is the Sakthi Gireeswara temple in Senganoor, a place praised by Thiru Gnana Sambanthar as flourishing with activity on the banks of the Cauvery. This is the birth place of Chandeswara Nayanar.

Sathya Gireeswarar temple is located facing the East and is one of the 70 Mada Koils built by Ko Chenganan Chozhan (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2014/12/thiruvanaikaval-jambukeswarar.html).

The temple has three prakaras and the Lord goes out on a procession around the four Mada Streets on festive occasions. There are three agraharams – Keezha Veethi, Nadu Veethi and Mela Veethi. Senganoor also stands testimony to the unity between Saivites and Vaishnavites.

100 yards from the temple facing the West is the Srinivasa Perumal Temple, whose idol was brought from Tirupathi and installed by Vaishnavite Acharya Periya Vachan Pillai (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/09/periya-vachan-pillai-senganoor.html).

In centuries gone by, Kola Villi Rama from Thiru Velliyankudi Divya Desam came here and went with Srinivasa Perumal on a joint procession to Kollidam for the Theerthavari Utsavam.

Reference in Periya Puranam

In the Periya Puranam, Senganoor is praised as being wealthy. Periya Puranam also refers to the place being on the Southern banks of Manni (Cauvery) river.

பூந்தண்பொண்ணிஎன்நாளும்

பொய்யாதுஅளிக்கும்புனல்நாட்டு

வாய்ந்தமண்ணித்தென்கரையில்மன்ன

முன்நாள்வரைகிழிய

ஏந்தும்அயில்வேல்நிலைகாட்டி

இமையோர்இகல்வெம்பகைகடக்கும்

சேந்தன்அளித்ததிருமறையோர்

மூதூர்செல்வச்சேய்ஞ்லூர்

It is said that Lord Subramanya came here to invoke the blessings of his father and took the ‘Sakthi’ weapon from here. After the Soora Samharam, he is believed to have come back here and created the ‘Kumara’ Theertham.

100s of Brahmin families lived here

To liberate himself from a disease, Sibhi Chakravarthy built 360 houses in this region and brought 360 Brahmins from across the country to reside here so one could hear the Vedic Recital continuously all through the year in Senganoor. He provided a home to each of them. One Brahmin lady gave birth to a child as she was about to enter Senganoor and hence could not reach here.

With one Brahmin less, Sibhi was worried that a house would remain unoccupied. It is believed that Shiva and Parvathi took the form of an old Brahmin couple and occupied the last house in the agraharam. When Sibhi came on his morning rounds around the agraharam to enquire about the well being of the residents, he found this house locked from inside and without a response. When he broke open the door, he found to his delight Lord and Ambal providing darshan from inside the house. This house on Southern tip of the Agraharam still exists and is referred to as the ‘Lord’s home’.

After a bath in the Theertham, the king is believed to have been liberated from the disease.

Sathya Giri Kshetram

When Adiseshan held on to the Meru Mountain to show his superiority over Vayu, the God of Wind retaliated by blowing away the mountain with his power. Pieces from the mountain spread far and wide, one of which fell here in this region. Hence this is referred to as Sathya Giri Kshetram.

Chandeswara Nayanar

A Brahmin Echathathan belonging to the Kaasiya Gothram and his wife Pavitra had a handsome looking son by name Vichara Sarma. He took upon himself the responsibility of grazing the cows and took them daily to the Manni river bank. He was a great devotee of Lord Shiva. On one such trip, moved by devotion, he made a Shiva lingam with the pure white sand from the river bank and began performing abhisekam for the Lord with the milk that the cows gave.

When his father heard this bizarre episode from the villagers, he came to this place and called out for his son. But the son who was immersed in Bhakti did not respond to the father’s call. Angered at this the father kicked the sand mound with his leg. Upset with his father’s action, the devoted Vichara Sarma hit out at the father’s leg with the grazing stick. The stick turned into a weapon and cut off the father’s legs.

Pleased with the devotion of Vichara Sarma that he took action even against his own father, the Lord provided darshan to Vichara Sarma at this place and blessed him as Chandesan and provided him with Mukthi. Those who offer worship to Chandesan at this temple are believed to secure the blessings that Chandesan himself had received from the Lord.

Brahmotsavam in Thai

Harischandra stayed here for a period and created the Appan Kulam (Oma Kunda Theertham) East of the temple. He also introduced the annual festival in Thai beginning on Uttaratadhi. The Chariot Festival is celebrated in a grand way on Punarpusam with the Theerthavari Utsavam the next day.

Krishnapremi and his childhood days at the temple

It was at the Dakshinamurthy Sannidhi at this temple that Krishnapremi Swami spent a major part of his childhood in penance like prayer. Thanks to his efforts over the last decade, this entire place stands transformed.

Saint Poet’s Praise

Thiru Gnana Sambanthar in his praise of Senganoor says that Senganoor was surrounded by groves that gave out honey / nectar in huge quantities and the bees were seen buzzing around rendering sweet music. The temple was surrounded by beautiful mansions with greenery all around.

பாணடைந்தவண்டுபாடும்

பைம்பொழில்சூழ்ந்தஅழகார்

சேணடைந்தமாடம்மல்கு

சேய்ஞ்சலூர்மேயவனே

He also points out in the 6^thverse that this was a temple built and worshipped as Mada Koil by Ko Chenganan Chozhan.

காடடைந்தஏனம்ஒன்றின்

காரணமாகிவந்து

வேடடைந்துவேடனாகி

விசயனொடுஎய்ததென்னே

கோடடைந்தமால்களிற்றுக்

கோச்செங்கணாற்குஅருள்செய்

சேடடைந்தசெல்வாழும்

சேய்ஞ்சலூர்மேயவனே

Kanchi Periyava stayed in this agraharam in 1949 for one long month. In those decades, dating back over half a century, this entire agraharam was vibrant with several Saivite and Vaishnavite families. There were dozens of kids in each house and entire place was buzzing with activity says 67 year old S Chandramouli who spent his entire childhood here in the agraharam in the 1950s and 60s. His forefathers were trustees of the Sathya Gireeswarar temple. He studied in the Government School till 5^th and then had to move to Thirupananthal for his high school and higher secondary education.

He says that the anti Brahmin movement in the 1960s and 70s drove residents out of the agraharams into cities.

In those days, when he was a young boy in the 1950s, residents lived a contended and happy life. They consumed healthy home food throughout their lives. He could see happiness all around.

A Vibrant Senganoor

The temple was rich in glory and there were positive vibrations all around. Peacocks were seen fluttering their wings and dancing around in happiness. Bees were seen playing music that was sweet to the ears. Repeatedly he refers to the place being amidst green fertile groves and amidst singing and dancing birds.

வீசடைந்ததோகையாட

விரைகமழும்பொழில்வாய்த்

தேசடைந்தவண்டுபாடும்

சேய்ஞ்சலூர்மேயவனே

After decades, he is back in Senganoor after retirement from his corporate job and has settled down in the traditional long agraharam home of his in the East Street. Over the last decade, he has been performing Kainkaryam at the Sathya Gireeswarar temple.

He says that many of the original inhabitants of Senganoor are now buying land here and is hopeful that this place will once again be vibrant like the centuries gone by.

The temple is open between 9am-11am in the morning and between 430pm - 730pm in the evening. Contact TK Ramakrishnan Gurukal 93459 82373 / S Chandramouli @ 70948 29225 / 96006 30839

The Mei Kavalar Venkateswaran has been performing duty here at this temple along with his father for well over 5 decades. Contact : 73739 67693

When Lord Namperumal stood waiting at the entrance for 1 ½ hours for the sake of Puratasi Devotees

The Lure of the Rs. 250 ticket Collection does it again at the Srirangam temple

September has been a great month financially at the Lord Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam. And the HR & CE authorities are sure to be delighted!!!

However, the big marketing exercise in recent decades of darshan on a Puratasi Saturday took its toll on Lord Namperumal, the Utsava Processional deity at the Srirangam temple. Having picked up an unexpectedly huge collection of over Rs. 2 crores during the fortnight of the earlier non- existent festival of Cauvery Pushkaram (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/09/srirangam-krishna-jayanthi_16.html), the Rs. 250 counter at the temple saw a huge queue once again yesterday Saturday (Sept 30).

With the Vijayadasami day coinciding this year with the Puratasai 2nd Saturday, it was going to be a tall order for the temple authorities to manage the return of Namperumal from his annual trip to Kaattu Azhagiya Singar Koil (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2009/07/kaattu-azhagiya-singar-srirangam.html) and the big crowd that was witnessed through the day at the Ranganatha Swamy temple to have darshan of the Moolavar.

And clearly authorities showed where their priorities lay.

Four Hour Procession

In the morning, Namperumal began his annual trip to Kaattu Azhagiya Singar Koil half hour early (as against the scheduled time of 630 am) to facilitate the Moolavar darshan (a big crowd had already gathered outside the Arya Bhattal Vaasal).

After his routine stop over at many places on the way including at the Srirangam Girls High School, Lord Namperumal reached Kaattu Azhagiya Singar Koil at 10 am.

After the devotees had had darshan through the day till 5 pm, the Bhattars began the special alankara for the evening.

An hour later, he rode out in a majestic princely posture atop the Golden Horse Vahana to destroy the negative evil forces at the ‘Vanni Maram’ with his arrows much to the delight of the devotees.

Expanded Railway Station forces a change in processional route

Through the whole of the 20^th Century, Lord Namperumal rode back on the Horse Vahana through the Srirangam Station. However with the recent expansion of the station into four platforms this annual route has now been blocked and the Lord had to make his way through the railway gate at the far Northern end of Srirangam.

Wide Range of Flower Garland

By 7pm, Lord Namperumal was all set to enter the Saathara Veethi, the wholesale flower market of Srirangam/ Trichy.

Usually the action in the street begins only at 11 pm but this was one day in the year when the Lord of Srirangam provides darshan to each of the flower vendors and the entire street was abuzz with expectation of a grand entry of the Lord on the Horse Vahana.

In a welcoming gesture to Lord Namperumal, they had decked up the entire street with a wide range of garlands comprising of different varieties of flowers that they use round the year for the various festivals of the Lord. It is the ‘Saathaanis’ that work tirelessly through the year to make relevant garland for the Lord and Thaayar.

Every house had a special garland to showcase - the mix of flowers both in terms of the quantity and the variety, the shape and design of the garland - each had a distinctive feel to it. As the Lord passed each of the flower vendors, he was delighted to find a very different garland.

Each of the residents savoured with devotion the presence of Lord Namperumal for over an hour last evening at their doorstep.

A Long 90 minute wait for Namperumal

Just after 815 pm, Lord Namperumal made his way back into the temple through the Therku Vaasul. He had had a long day out – a four hour procession in the morning and now over a 2 hour trip from the Kaattu Azhagiya Singar temple and there was a Thirumanjanam to cool him down. However, he was in for a rude shock.

With crowd thronging the temple on the 2^nd Saturday of Puratasi to have darshan of the Moolavar deity, Lord Namperumal had to wait patiently outside the Ranga Vilas Mandapam for an hour and a half. Unlike most other Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu, where the Lord is placed on stools during stopovers, in Srirangam, the Lord is carried continuously on their shoulders by the Sri Patham Thangis right till the time he is back at his abode.

Srirangam Temple Joint Commissioner Pon Jayaraman made his way to the entrance of ‘Therku Vaasal’ at around 9 pm to have a darshan of Namperumal and went back quietly as the Rs. 250 tickets continued to be issued near the Arya Bhattal Vaasal. It did not occur to him that it was not appropriate to make the Lord wait this long almost outside the temple!!!!

It was well after 9.30pm when the Moolavar darshan was closed for the day by which time Lord Namperumal had stood for well over an hour at the entrance of the temple awaiting the green signal to be allowed entry back into his abode. However, relief came to the Lord only at 945 pm.

The Vethals / Sri Patham Thangis had shown remarkable patience to shoulder the Lord for 90 minutes standing stationary in front of the Ranga Vilas Mandapam.

Rarely in the history of the temple has Lord Namperumal been insulted thus being made to wait at the entrance of the temple. The temple Manian ( the time keeper of the temple activities/ festivals), who is now a Government employee, was helpless as he kept checking through the hour for updates from the Arya Bhattal Vaasal if the Moolavar darshan was closed for the evening. And it just seem a never ending exercise for he received a 'No' through till 9.30 pm.

Many of the devotees who accompanied the Lord during the procession wondered as to why the Lord was made to stand in one place for this long, especially at the entrance of the temple.

The lure of Rs. 250 collections and boosting the kitty has now become far more important and it does seem okay to even make the Lord stand outside for over an hour. It almost seemed on the night that the Lord was 'seeking' permission to be allowed back to his abode but the authorities stood firm as the collections through Rs. 250 tickets reached unprecedented levels on the evening.

Finally he reached the Santanu Mandapam at 10.15 pm and the Thirumanjanam went on till well past midnight before Lord Namperumal went back to his abode at 2am!!!! What a long day and night for the Lord!!!

Bhattars and Parijarakars lived amidst Snakes and Skeletons at this temple till the 1970s

Will the Srirangam temple authorities run a shuttle service everyday to this temple?

Period in the 1970s and 80s was a dangerous one at ‘Kaattu’ Azhagiya Singar Koil, the temple dedicated to Lord Narasimha, east of the Srirangam Railway Station. It was a dense forest. No one dared to go there.

Venkatesa Iyengar has been the cook at the Madapalli for the last 35 years. He is also the Manian

(Time Keeper) at the temple.

His father late Srinivasa Iyengar had been performing similar service at the temple for several decades since the early 1940s. Each day, he would walk all the way from Therku Vaasal in Srirangam (from near the Ranga Ranga Gopuram) to Kaattu Azhagiya Singar temple crossing the then old fashioned Srirangam Railway Station. Past the railway line it was a small muddy one way path with big thick bushes on either side.

Snakes and Reptiles and Skeletons too!!!

In addition to housing Lord Azhagiya Singar, the temple played home to venomous snakes, Udumbu and deadly big Scorpions. Similar to the twin temples of Erettai Tirupathi in Nava Tirupathi (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/02/erettai-tirupathi-transformation.html), the prakara here too was filled with bushes and one could hear the hissing snakes.

Rarely would a devotee visit the temple in those days. The moment they informed about leaving for a darshan of the Lord at Kaattu Azhagiya Singar temple, the residents of Srirangam would caution them and the trip would usually end up being cancelled. Only the real brave ones and the die-hard Narasimha devotees and those that had serious problems to contend with in life dared to venture into this area.

There were no utsavams at the temple. Up till the 1970s, there were no houses in the area. The temple was flanked by a burial ground in the North and green fields in the East and South. There were no lights anywhere in the vicinity of the temple. The only noise came from the Steam engines that passed through the Srirangam station. There were even skeletons seen around this ancient temple that pre dates the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam.

Between the two rivers

In ancient times, this Kshetram was referred to as Velli Thirumutham. Only much later, after the construction of the Ranganatha temple, this place came to be called Thiruvarangam. Lord Narasimha is seen in a seated posture facing the West (towards Srirangam Ranganatha temple) with Lakshmi to his left.

Surrounded by the two rivers on either side, Cauvery to the South and Coloroon to the North, and inhabited only by the rishis and their families, wild animals would attack the families of the rishis and consume them for a meal. While the rishis had the power to burn the animals just by their looks, they would not forego the fruits of their penance by killing these wild animals. Instead they undertook a more severe form of penance invoking the blessings of Lord Narasimha.

Pleased with their prayers, Lord Narasimha appeared here providing darshan to these rishis. As per their request, he stayed here with Goddess Lakshmi protecting the lives of all those who offer their sincere prayers at this place. As the Lord appeared here in the middle of a forest and stayed back to protect the devotees, the Lord came to be called ‘Kaattu’ Azhagiya Singar.

Namperumal’s Annual trip on Vijayadasami

The big day in the year was on Vijayadasami when Lord Namperumal made his annual trip to this temple. Ahead of his visit, a hereditary community near the burial ground would clean the path and clear the bushes to make way for the Lord. There would be a few devotees who would come along with the Lord on this day from Srirangam.

A Financially Difficult Life

As the Manian, in charge of the temple service and poojas, Venkatesan was not able to give even 25paise a day to the archakas for their service‘We would literally beg for a small quantity of Ghee to light the lamp at the temple. It was also a difficult task to secure even 50gms of Manjal - Such was the state of the temple till the 80s!!!’

'I would walk around the temple complex to the fields to sell the prasadam as lunch to the farmers in the afternoon to make some money for our daily survival.'

Despite the financially stressed life, Srinivasa Iyengar’s consistent message to his son throughout his childhood was to give positive messages to devotees who came to the Lord with problems and to create the belief that the Lord would take care of them if they invoked his blessings with sincere devotion ‘It is our duty to make them happy when they are here at the temple.’

Infrastructure Improvement from the 80s

Things began improving from the late 80s. A Tar Road was created east of the railway station. Street Lights were installed. A few houses were built.

Into this century, with increased ‘devotion’, this entire region has been transformed. As with the modern flats on the Melur Road, West of Srirangam, this location East of Srirangam too has seen a number of new constructions. The green fields have been replaced by modern apartments. There are no sign of bushes anymore.

For the new gen, it would be difficult to believe that this entire region around the temple was a forest area and the domain of animals just a few decades ago.

Bus Service from Srirangam?

The devotee crowd is much better but constraints remain. Not all those who visit Srirangam come to this ancient temple. There are no bus facilities to the temple. The authorities at the Ranganathaswamy temple could run an hourly shuttle service between these two temples. In fact, the authorities could also look to run at least a weekend service from Srirangam to all the nearby Divya Desams covering Thiruvellarai, Uthamar Koil, Anbil, Koviladi and Uraiyur.

It still remains a difficult task to visit all these Divya Desams in one go given the lack of public transport facilities connecting each of these temples. It is hoped that the authorities will take action to facilitate this for the devotees visiting Srirangam.

The temple is open between 6.15am and 12noon and between 5pm and 8pm. There are special poojas and Thirumanjanam organised every month on the Swathi Nakshatram and Prathosham days. Also, Saturday is an auspicious day to visit this temple.

Contact Manian and Madapalli Chief Venkatesan @ 81447 21248

The ancient Thirunavukarasar praised Agneeswarar Temple is dedicated to Sukran among the Navagraha Temples

Agneeswarar Gurukal and his forefathers have been performing aradhana for the last 400 years having seen through really tough times in the 20th century

Cauvery flows from North to South at this historic location

Auto driver Murugan has been a resident of Kanjanur, a historical Saivite Temple dedicated to Lord Agneeswarar one that has been praised by Thirunavukarasar, for almost four decades. He charges Rs. 100 for a 5 km drop to Aduthurai and says that such charges are possible only now. He recollects his childhood from the 1980s as being very quiet and completely uneventful at the temple.

There was no proper road to the temple that was surrounded by rough bushes and green fields. There would not be a single devotee after 6pm on any day including the weekend. It would be pitch dark around the temple as there were no street lights in this region. The Kumbabhishekam of the temple took place in 1890, 1964 and 2006, an indication of the troubled times that this temple had gone through over the last 100 years.

In the 1980s, the concept of this temple being a prominent Sukra Sthalam was just not there. In fact he says that none of the other navagraha temples had a devotee following like what we see now.

Back then, people did not visit these temples for liberations from doshams. Those few who visited were traditional devotees who saw this as a Saint Poet praised Agneeswarar temple. Just a couple of kms East is the huge towering temple of Thiru Koteeswarar in Thiru Kodikaval (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2013/11/thiru-kotteeswarar-temple-thiru.html), a Pancha ‘Ka’ Kshetram, that was then in a dilapidated state. It was a huge temple, one of the largest in the region and yet there too the devotees were few and far between.

In those decades, there was no public transport anywhere near these temples. A bus would ply once a day in each direction, once in the morning and once back in the evening.

The Devotional surge in the late 1990s

And then quite unexpectedly, things changed dramatically in the late 1990s and the first decade of this century. There was a big wave towards liberation from doshams as a sudden belief in astrology saw a huge change in the mind set of the people. This astrological drive saw each of these temples gain in prominence. Focus on parikarams and a resultant positive change has strongly entered the mindset of a devotee. On a typical Friday, the main Sannidhi of Lord Agneeswarar remains largely closed for the devotees' focus is on the Sukran Sannidhi just south of the Agneeswarar Sannidhi.

Many of the devotees even seem to forget that this was a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva for they are lost in thought of getting Sukran, who is the GIVER among the 9 planets, on to their side.

Archanai bags make a huge business on Friday with a full plate selling for Rs. 150 and a mini coconut plus flower going for Rs. 50. The priest at the Sukran Sannidhi held 8 archanai plates in his two hands and found it difficult to manage the crowd that was in thousands.

A devoted Gurukal

Agneeswarar Gurukal has spent all of his four decades at the temple. His is the 8^th generation that has been performing Aradhana at the temple. He says that while a typical period of Sukran is 20 years, not all may reap the benefits of this entire period.

With financial goals of people increasing manifold, devotees have been thronging the temple in an effort to increase the presence of Sukran in their lives.

As Agneeswarar Gurukal, who is extremely well versed in Vedas and Agamas having learnt from the renowned Aruna Jatesa Shivacharya, sits inside his traditional styled home with a Thinnai at the entrance, his small 120 page note is fast filling up on the Friday afternoon. Those with wedding issues, job issues and business growth are reaching out to him seeking his help to perform the parikaram to turn their fortunes around. He issues a small token to them and asks them to come back after 5 archanai weeks.

Agneeswarar Gurukal’s grandfather Aruna Jatesa Shivachariyar had been the asthana archakar at the temple having performed aradhana at the temple for over 8 decades. He was single handedly responsible for this temple gaining the current popularity. He died a decade ago at the age of 98.

A heartening feature at the temple is the presence of a number of young archakas fully committed to take forward the devotional traditions at the temple. Festivals are celebrated right through the year in a grand manner.

Kamsa Puram - Grand 16 day Brahmotsavam

Historically, this place was known as Kamsa Puram after the king who converted this from a wild forest into a beautiful small village housing Lord Agneeswarar after he was liberated from a disease. He also introduced the Brahmotsavam which is now celebrated in a grand way over a 16 day period in Maasi with great involvement from the villagers.

Appar’s Praise of Kanjanur

Saint Poet Thirunavukarasar in the 6^th Thirumurai has sung 10 verses in praise of the Lord. Praising the place as Kanjanur in each of these verses, he says that he was delighted to have had darshan of Karpagam at this place.

A staunch Saivite Devotee finds Lord’s blessings

Born into a Vaishnavite family, Sudarashan turned out to be a sincere devotee of Agneeswarar from a very young age. Turned away by his father for placing the sacred white ash on his forehead, he showcased as to what a true devotee is by surrendering himself to Lord Agneeswarar at Kanjanur. Pleased with his devotion, the Lord anointed Sudarshan as Hara Dutta and initiated him into Vedas and Puranas. In memory of this great devotee, to this day, Hara Dutta is taken out on the street processions along with Lord Agneeswarar.

நாரணனும்நான்முகனும்அறியாதானை

நால்வேதத்துருவானைநம்பிதன்னை

Devas liberated from Sukran's Curse

Having deceptively lost the nectar to the Devas (through Mohini’s presence and play), Sukrachariar, the preceptor of the Asuras cursed the Devas to lose their powers. Vyasa, the son of Parasara Muni who had undertaken penance at Kanjanur, brought them to Sukran to redeem from the curse. As directed by him, they invoked the blessings of the Lord here at Kanjanur and were liberated from the curse on Vaikasi Visakam. Appar refers to this in his verse:

மலையானைமற்றொபாரில்லாதானை

மதிகதிரும் வானவரும்மாலும்போற்றும்
கலையானை கஞ்சனூர் ஆண்ட கோவைக்

கற்பகத்தை கண்ணாரக் கண்டுய்ந்தேனே

Appar also refers to Sukran in his praise.

இமவான் பேதையோடும்

இனிதிருந்தபெருமானைஏத்தவார்க்கு

Sundarar in his praise refers to Kanjanur alongside the temples of Nannilam, Kandiyur, Velur and Nellikka.

நாளும்நன்னிலம்தென்பனையூர்வடகஞ்சனூர்

நீளநீள்சடையானநெல்லிக்காவும்நெடுங்களம்

காளகண்டன்உறையும்ங்கடைமுடிகண்டியூர்

வேளூர்நாட்டுவேளூர்விளத்தூர்நாட்டுவிளத்தூரே

Vada Cauvery opposite the temple

A special feature of the Agneeswarar temple is that Cauvery flows from North to South. Hence having a bath in ‘Vada Cauvery’ is considered even more sacred. The Raja Gopuram is also facing south towards the Cauvery.

The temple is open between 7 am-12.30 pm and 4 pm-9 pm. Contact Agneeswarar Gurukal @ 97873 29460.

How to reach

Kanjanur is about 5kms from Aduthurai (Kumbakonam- Mayiladuthurai route) a km East of Suryanar Koil. Mini buses ply every 15mts from Aduthurai. There are also buses from Mayiladuthurai (21kms) via Thiru Kodikkaval.

Auto from Aduthurai bus stand/ railway station will cost Rs. 100.

When here also visit Suryanar Koil and Thiru Kotteeswarar temple at Thiru Kodikkaval.

Only Temple dedicated to ‘Dayanidhi’

Thiru Gnana Sambanthar praises the devotion of Vaali in his verses

It is a road that links Kallanai in the West to Poompuhar on the Eastern Sea Shore. The stretch to Kumbakonam alone houses several ancient temples both Vaishnavite Divya Desams and Saivite Thevaram Sthalams along the banks of the Cauvery. Starting with Koviladi Appakudathan temple (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2007/11/108-divya-desam-koviladi-appakudathaan.html) near Kallanai, there are huge temples in Thillaisthanam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2016/10/thillaisthanam-neiyarappar-temple.html) and Thiruvayaru (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2014/11/thiruvaiyaru-pancha-natheeswarar-temple.html). Despite being praised by both the Saivite and Vaishnavite Saint Poets as glorious temples, the temples along the stretch to Kumbakonam now find themselves ignored with the priests constantly stretching their neck out of the Sannidhi to see if that elusive devotee makes his way into the temple.

One such temple is the Dayanidheeswarar temple in Vada Kurangaduthurai, a temple whose legend dates back to the Ramayana and to the penance of Vaali. This is the only temple dedicated to ‘Dayanidhi’ among the Thevaram temples. Ambal is referred to as Jataa Makuda Nayaki. The Lord is housed in a huge complex surrounded by tall coconut trees in a beautiful Nandavanam but on a normal day, there is not a devotee around. Similar is the story of the Vaishnavite Divya Desam a few 100 yards West of this temple (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2007/05/108-divya-desam-thiru-koodalur.html). The Jagathrakshakan Perumal Koil in Koodalur too has failed to lure the devotees in big numbers in recent decades.

The temple architecture in its current form is said to date to back 1300 years.

Vaali's strength, including of his tail, was so great that even Ravana feared his presence. Just his tail was many times enough to round out his opponents who would be circled and thrown many hundreds of yards away. In the legendary episode from the Ramayana, Vaali in his last moments addresses Rama expressing regret that the son of Dasaratha did not inform him of his search for Sita. The very decision of Vaali going to Lanka would have forced Ravana to hand back Sita to her husband, such was the fear of Vaali in the mind of the Lankan King.

In one of the fights between the two, Vaali destroyed Ravana who to run for his life. In the process of this battle, Vaali had his long tail cut. It is believed that he came here to Vada Kurangaduthurai and performed pooja invoking the blessings of Lord Dayanideeswarar to secure back his tail in its full length. Hence the Lord here is also referred to as ‘Vaali’ Nathar. In memory of this episode one finds a sculpture atop the Vimana.

Thiru Gnana Sambanthar’s praise

Referring to this temple as being on the Northern banks of the Cauvery, Thiru Gnana Sambanthar in his verses on Vada Kurangaduthurai has praised Vaali and his devotion to the Lord of Vada Kurangaduthurai. He also refers to the Lord as Sadai Mudi Nathar.

Provides Coconut Water to a thirsty devotee

A Chettiar lady, a true devotee of Dayanidheeswarar was on the verge of giving birth to a child. When she arrived here, ill health meant that the couple had to decide between the mother and the child. While the husband was away to secure food for the hungry wife, she surrendered to her favourite Lord and sought protection.

With the husband not returning in time and as she could not contain her thirst, the Lord is said to have helped quench her thirst by providing coconut water and much to her husband’s surprise, she gave birth to the child without any complications.

It is believed that those who offer their sincere prayers to Lord Dayanidheeswarar will be absolved of all problems in life. To this day, there is a huge coconut grove around the temple complex.

Moksham to a devoted Sparrow

Another story goes that Lord Dayanidheeswarar provided Moksham to a sweet singing sparrow that had brought water for the Lord every day of his life from the nearby Cauvery river bank and one that would sit atop Lord’s head in joy. Hence the Lord is also referred to as Chittilingeswarar.

Festivals

Panguni Uthiram is celebrated in a grand way. There is a special alankaram for Ambal on each of the days of Navarathri. The Lord goes to the Cauvery for Theerthavari on the occasion of Aadi Pooram.

The priest comes from Ganapathi Agraharam, a couple of kms West of the Temple. However Ravi Iyer, who manages the Madapalli lives near the temple and is available for the ‘surprise’ devotees all the time at the temple @ 93642 39391 / 70942 29391.

West of this temple is the Thevaram Sthalam at Thiru Pazhanam near Thiruvayaru http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2016/12/thiru-pazhanam-abath-sahayeswarar-temple.html

Administered by the Thanjavur Samasthanam, this is a very well maintained temple as is the case with most of the temples managed by the Sarabhoji Prince (a few examples of those include Punnai Nallur Mariamman Temple and Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam).

How to reach

Vadakurangaduthurai is about 10 kms East of Thiruvayaru on the Kumbakonam highway. Buses ply on the Kumbakonam – Thiruvayaru highway, though this is infrequent. From Papanasam one can take a mini bus to Kapisthalam, from where, one can take the Thiruvayaru bound bus (8kms) to reach the temple.

Auto from Kapisthalam will cost Rs. 150.

Palani Express will now officially run through to Udumalpet and Pollachi

No Train Services between Coimbatore and Madurai/Rameswaram despite the commissioning of the new broad gauge line earlier this year

The Tiruchirapalli bound Rockfort Express from Chennai Egmore will be faster by 15 minutes while its departure has been postponed by 1 hour effective November 1.

Over the last 6 months, the train has been reaching the temple town of Srirangam too early in the morning of 3.30 am for the devotee passengers' liking. The train will now leave Chennai Egmore at 11.30 pm instead of 1030 pm and will reach Srirangam at 4.08 am (Trichy Junction at 5.15am). Similarly Mangalore Express which previously departed Egmore at 1015 pm and reached Srirangam at 315 am will now depart at 11.15 pm and reach Srirangam at 3.49am.

The departure timing of both Karaikal bound Kamban Express and Thanjavur bound Uzhavan Express has been preponed by 1hour to 10.15 pm and 1030 pm. Uzhavan Express will now reach Kumbakonam at 455 am.

Madurai bound Pandyan Express will now be 35 minutes faster and will leave Egmore at 940 pm to reach Madurai at 5.55 am.

The Tiruchirapalli bound Rockfort Express from Chennai Egmore has been speeded up by 15minutes while its departure has been postponed by 1 hour effective November 1. Over the last 6months, the train has been reaching the temple town of Srirangam too early in the morning of 3.30am for the devotee passengers liking. The train will now leave Chennai Egmore at 11.30pm instead of 1030pm and will reach Srirangam at 4.30am. Similarly Mangalore Express which previously departed Egmore at 1015pm and reached Srirangam at 315am will now depart at 11.15pm.

The departure timing of both Karaikal bound Kamban Express and Thanjavur bound Uzhavan Express has been preponed by around one hour to 10.05 pm and 10.30 pm . Uzhavan Express will now reach Kumbakonam at 445am.

Madurai bound Pandyan Express will now be 35minutes faster and will leave Egmore at 940pm to reach Madurai before 6am.

Palani Exp extended to Udumalpet/Pollachi

An important formal addition is the extension of Central Palani Express to Pollachi ( in fact it has been extended to Palghat). Over the last year or so, this train had been unofficially extended to Udumalpet and Pollachi with passengers having to buy an unreserved ticket from Palani.

However a big disappointment this time around has been the non introduction of any express trains in the Coimbatore Madurai Rameswaram route. This was once upon a time a very important service with night express trains running full either way on this route. For the last decade or so, there have been no train services from Coimbatore to Madurai via Pollachi and Palani. With the broad gauge conversion complete, one expected the original express and passenger trains to resume on this route but not a single service will run between Coimbatore and Madurai leaving the passengers in the hands of the bus operators.

Chozhan Express remains slow

Also, one expected the Trichy Egmore Main line Chozhan express to be speeded up. Since its re-introduction a few years ago, this train has taken 8 to 8 ½ hours to cover 401 kms via Thanjavur /Kumbakonam/Mayiladuthurai averaging just 45kms per hour on a lean traffic section. This train will be faster by just 20 minutes when it should easily be able to cover the this distance in just over 7 hours given that there are minimal crossings in that section.

Palani Exp to run up to Palakkad

An important formal addition is the extension of Central Palani Express to Pollachi ( in fact it has been extended to Palakkad). Over the last year or so, this train had been unofficially extended to Udumalpet and Pollachi with passengers having to buy an unreserved ticket from Palani.

Biggest Disappointment for Coimbatore

Kallazhagar went up the hilly terrain last week for the Thailakappu Utsavam at Nupura Gangai

An Inscription on the wall between the Perumal and Thayar Sannidhi of the Thiru Maliruncholai Divya Desam in the outskirts of Madurai refers to an undertaking during the coronation ceremony of Sundara Pandyan that he would continue the ‘Thalai Aruvi’ Utsavam and that if he did not it would amount to killing a 1000 sacred cows, testifying that the one of its kind festival at Nupura Ganga (Silambaru) is a historical one.

Vaishnavite Saint Poet Periyazhvaar in the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham says that Pandya King Nedumaran of Koodal came to Thiru Maliruncholai in a thanking gesture to the Lord and to celebrate his victory. Those who visited the Lord at Thiru Maliruncholai and invoked his blessings before an event always returned with victory and came back to thank the Lord. And hence he describes it as a VICTORY HILL.

கொல்நவில்கூறவேற்கோன்

நெடுமாறன்தென் கூடற் கோன்

தென்னன் கொண்டாடும்

தென் திரு மாலிருஞ் சோலையே

Periyazhvar had a special liking for the Lord of Thiru Maliruncholai and provides insights into this place, with repeated references to Nupur Ganga and its greatness. Celestial girls came all the way to bathe in Nupur Ganga that flowed down from the Thiru Malirun Cholai hills. He praises Nupur Ganga as producing sacred water.

The Kalpataru flowers in heaven are filled with nectar like fragrance. He compares that to Nupur Ganga which he praises as having this fragrance of nectar.

Legendary Episode

Legend has it that while measuring the world during his Trivikrama Avatara, Lord Narayana’s feet stretched to Brahmma Logam where a delighted Brahmma poured the sacred water on the Silambu / Nupuram worn by the Lord on his feet. This sacred water poured from the Lord’s feet to this place in Thiru Maliruncholai on Sukla Paksha Dwadasi in Aipasi.

In celebration of this legendary episode, Lord Kallazhagar, the Utsava deity of Azhagar Koil, makes an annual trip up the hilly terrain to Nupura Ganga on this day every year in Aipasi for the Thailakappu and Neerattam Utsavam.

This event was enacted last Tuesday (Nov 1) at Thiru Maliruncholai Malai, a hill that Periyazhvaar refers to as one with thousands of lakes and flower groves and where the Lord is reclining with a thousand arms and a thousand crowns on the serpent with a thousand hoods. There is a rock carving atop the Nupura Ganga of the Lord in a Sayana Kolam on a huge Serpant.

ஆயிரம்தோல்பரப்பிமுடிஆயிரம்மின்னிலக

ஆயிரம்பைந்தலையஅனந்தசயனன்ஆளும்மலை

ஆயிர மாருகளும்கணைகள்பலவாயிரமும்

A long day at the Azhagar Malai

Led by the temple elephant and accompanied by the beating of the sacred drum, Lord Kallazhagar began his trip at 9.30 am from his abode at Azhagar Koil.

For the next two hours, he waded his way through a rough and dense thicket up the Azhagar Malai carried by the Sri Patham Thangis on a palanquin.

Periyazhvaar described Thiru Maliruncholai as home to huge elephants that make their way into the forest in large numbers as a herd. The Wild elephants are seen chasing helpless cows into the forest of Thiru Maliruncholai. Even as late as the 1970s and 80s, the priests had such ‘wild’ experiences during this annual trip of the Lord in Aipasi.

The man performing the service of carrying the sacred umbrella ahead of the Lord has seen it all for he and his father have been performing this for the last six decades. While the path is relatively better now, it was not the case in the decades gone by. And it was quite a strenuous trip up the hill with most ending up with bleeding feet but they did it all with devotion to the Lord of Thiru Maliruncholai.

Oil Anointment and Combing of the Lord's Hair

Kallazhagar reached Nupura Ganga at around 11. 30 am. At the specially decorated mandapa, ‘alankara specialist’ Ambi Narayanana Bhattar, whose forefathers have presented the alankara to the Lord on this day over the last century delighted the devotees with a devotional display of oil anointment of the Lord followed by the patient combing off the long Oily hair that sent the devotees into happy tears.

Big Moment of the Utsavam

In line with Periyazhvaar’s praise of Silambaru as an ‘eternal water spring’, water gushes down the slope to Azhagar Koil from Nupura Ganga all through the year without a break, quite a unique feature of this location. The sacred moment of the Utsavam came when Lord Kallazhagar, with the devotees all around shouting out his name in rapturous delight, was led to Silambaru, where he had a ‘direct’ bath from the spring, the only one of its kind in a Divya Desam.

Periyazhvaar’s praise of Silambaru

Periyazhvaar says that devotees came from towns and villages to take a holy dip in Nupura Ganga in an effort to rid themselves of the sins. And when Ambi Bhattar splashed this holy water on the devotees they were reminded of Periyazhvaar’s verse and their face brightened up and they seemed to be gripped with an elated feeling of devotion.

After a long day out at the top of Thiru Maliruncholai Malai, the Lord returned to his abode at Azhagar Koil late in the evening once again passing through the thick bushes and the rocky terrain.

(A version of this story featured today in The Hindu Friday Review)

Lord Nellaiappar appeared as a Swayambu Moorthy from the Bamboo tree

The Huge Nellai Govindar is seen adjacent to the Saivite Lord in a unique posture facing skywards

The Nellaiappar temple housed on a huge 15acre area in the heart of Thirunelveli dates back is grand in every way. Huge complex for both the Lord and Ambal, grand festivities all through the year, following of traditional rituals gives it a truly devotional touch. Till the early part of the 2^nd half of the previous century, all the four streets were full of traditional houses with Mutts in each of the four big streets. There were minimal tourists (the temple had not become a place of ‘tourist’ attraction till the end of the previous century!! And all the visitors to the temple were religious traditionalists who took delight in accompanying the Lord in grand processions.

The entire temple complex is abound with inscriptions and unique sculptures.

Moorthy Picharya Gurukal has been performing aradhana for the last two decades. His grand father had been an integral part of the temple for over five decades in the early part of the 20th century. His father then took over and carried on the pooja with devotion through the 2nd half of the previous century.

In recent decades, both economic development and increased tourist inflow have led to the place losing its ancient glory with the mushrooming of towering multi storied showrooms that have taken over the Chariot Streets. Shops have encroached around the outer walls of the temple.

The temple plays host to one of the famous ‘Pancha Sabhas’, this one being ‘Thamarai Sabha’.

10 Musical Pillars

The Sai Natha Mani Mandapam leading to the sanctum of Nellaiappar is a special one for it houses 10 musical pillars built from a single stone each one presenting a different swaram, a truly remarkable piece of architecture showing the Sirpi’s extraordinary skills in the centuries gone by.

The Original Name of the Lord

Rama Konar, who ran a Goshala, would take milk to the King’s court every morning. Much to his surprise, he found the cow giving out milk in a particular place. After the axe struck a bamboo tree, they found blood marks on the tree. The King visited the spot, apologized to the Lord and promised to build a temple at the same place. The Lord emerged from the bamboo tree as a Swayambu Moorthy. While he was wondering as to how he would construct the temple if the Lord kept growing tall like a tree, the Lord ‘announced’ that he would stop at the 21^st feet (which would then be visible to the devotees) with 20 feet remaining below the earth. Hence the Lord was originally referred to as Venu (Bamboo) Vanam Easwarar and this region was referred to as Venu Vana Puram.

In memory of this episode, there is an idol of Rama Konar inside the Nellaiappar temple complex.

While doing the ground work for the temple construction, much to their delight they found a ‘Maha- Lingam’. This was installed at that same location, a step below the Nellaiappar Sannidhi to his North East to indicate its historical nature. To this day, the Uchi Kaala Pooja takes place for this Lingam as well. Appreciating the King’s efforts, the Lord is said to have handed a ‘Senkol’ to the king to rule the land.

Enacting the historical Episode

On the occasion of the Panguni Uthiram, Nellaiappar and Ganthimathi go on a joint procession following which Nellaiappar hands over the Senkol to Murugan who then hands it to Nedumaran Pandyan.

Beautiful ancient sculptures line up the pathway that joins the Nellaiappar Sannidhi complex with the Ambal Sannidhi.

‘Nel’ Veli

While centuries ago, the area surrounding the temple had been full of Bamboo trees, in later periods of time, it was converted to green paddy fields. And thus the Lord came to be known as Saali (Paddy) Vaateeswarar and the place as Saali Vahana Puram.

Once upon a time, it was the daily ritual of Veda Gurukal who performed Thiru Aradhanam at this temple, to have bath in the nearby river and to present Neiveithyam to the Lord with the Paddy that he had kept to dry. Once while he was having bath, it rained heavily. Worried that the Paddy would be washed away in the rain, he invoked the blessings of the Lord, from the river bank and asked for the paddy to remain dry so he could present it to Him to feed his hunger. When he came back, he found to his delight that the place around the Paddy alone remained dry.

He showcased this to King Nedumaran as to how the ‘Nel’ had a ‘Veli’ around it for protection from the rain. Hence the Lord came to be known as ‘Nel’ ‘Veli’ Nathar (Nellai Appar) and the place as Thiru ‘Nel’ ‘Veli’.

When the minister asked the king to take a look at the towering gopuram, he could not look up as he had a hunch. It is said that the Lord rubbed his back to remove the hunch so he could take a look. Hence he came to be known as ‘Ninra’ Seer Nedumaran Pandyan.

When the devoted king was asked as to what he wanted, he is believed to have asked for an eternal darshan. Hence there is a sculpture atop the main sanctum at the entrance from where King Nedumaran is said to be worshipping the Lord.

Another interesting feature of the main sanctum is that Ganga and Yamuna are seen at the entrance as Dwarapalikas.

Nellai Govindar

Lord Shiva is believed to have invoked the blessings of Vishnu and invited him to be present here at the temple through the day and night. Answering his prayers, Lord Vishnu presented himself here in a unique ‘Anantha Sayanam’ posture just next to Lord Nellaiappar with his face looking skywards and left hand holding Vilvam and his right hand performing pooja for the Shiva Lingam. On the 11^th day of the Kalyana Utsavam in Aipasi, Nellai Govindar, the utsava perumal, goes to Katchi Mandapam. After the joint procession of Lord and Ambal, Nellai Govindar presents the hand of Ambal to Nellaippar. This is the only time in the year that he comes out of his sanctum.

Festivals

This is a daily Utsavam temple with festivals taking place through the year. Murugan, Vinayakar, Ganthimathi and Nellaiappar- each has an exclusive chariot. This is the 518^thyear of the continuous running of the chariot with the Brahmotsavam taking place in Aani

Aipasi Kalyana Utsavam

Ambal performs penance in the twin rivers of Vibhuthi and Varunan, tributaries of Kambai River, with Kurunji flowers invoking the blessings of Nellaiappar. Pleased with her penance, he brought her to the 1000 pillar mandapam in a Vibhuthi Alankarm with Kurunji flowers on her and married her here in a Brahmma Muhurtham (very early in the morning). To this day, this is followed with the wedding festivities taking place early in the morning. This is followed by a three day Oonjal Utsavam. There is a certain devotional touch one finds within the Ganthimathi Ambal Sannidhi.

Uchi Kaalam Pooja – A speciality

Similar to the one at the Jambukeswarar temple in Thiruvanaikaval, the Uchi Kaalam pooja is special at this temple. The sacred food from Ambal Sannidhi is brought by the Gurukal to the Lord’s Sannidhi for Uchi Kaalam Pooja. In the night during the Artha Jaama Pooja, Ambal wears white saree to indicate the purity of her mind. The archakar of Lord’s Sannidhi goes to Ambal Palliyarai for the night pooja.

Thai Amavasya – Swarna Vilakku Utsavam

As part of the three day utsavam, the entire temple is lit and the pancha moorthy procession takes place with Ambal in Rishabha Vahana.

The Appar Story on Maasi Magam

On the occasion of Maasi Magam, the episode of Saivite Saint Poet Appar getting the Lord’s darshan is enacted at the Potramarai Kulam.

Reading of the Panchankam

On the first day of Chitrai every year, the Lord comes around to sit atop the Kailasa hill on the western side of the prakara in front of the Nataraja Sannidhi and listens to the reading of the Tirunelveli Vakya Panchankam.

A large scale renovation activity is round the corner and is expected to start sometime soon.

The temple is open between 6am-12.30pm and 4pm-9pm. Contact S Moorthy Gurukal @ 94429 30204 / Peshkar Murugesan @ 99446 29425

The biggest restoration exercise of the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam in 200 years gets them the UNESCO award

Leader Venu Srinivasan’s Srirangam restoration exercise is a ‘Role Model’ for any large temple restoration

Having seen the temple from close quarters as a devotee from the mid 1970s and even more closely as a writer from the middle of last decade, it is truly befitting for the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam to receive the UNESCO award for ‘Cultural Heritage Conservation’ for the temple has been truly revived to its glorious past. The grandeur of the restoration has to be seen to be believed.

This award also comes as a fitting reward for the Chairman, Board of Trustees (CBT) Venu Srinivasan in his 25^th year of association with temple restoration activities that he had begun way back in 1992-93 with the Rama temple in Padai Veedu, near Vellore.

The story goes that this inaugural project of initiating a complete transformation of Padai Veenu from ruins to a thriving village led the Collector of Tirunelveli to engage with Venu Srinivasan and initiate in him the thought of reviving Nava Tirupathi, a region that was in dire straits with a large majority of the people there living in poverty and fighting for everyday survival.

The Nava Tirupathi Call in the mid 90s

It was closer to home for Venu and this opportunity to be involved with developmental work relating to those temples excited him. But even he would not have had an inkling then of what he was to achieve in Nava Tirupathi. He had always seen that region as a set of 11 temples (including Srivaramangai – Nanguneri and Thiru Kurungudi) and not 9!!! And he got cracking on a project that now 2 decades later easily ranks as one of the biggest transformational exercises undertaken in Tamil Nadu (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/02/erettai-tirupathi-transformation.html).

That entire region now bears no resemblance to what one saw in the early 1990s – deserted, absolutely no ‘outside’ devotees, priests with no income and wearing the same dhoti through the year and there was no ‘other economy’.

While Venu set about getting the dilapidated temples back in shape, he also focused on another important aspect – the rehabilitation of the society. It is now vibrant with the villages especially in and around Erettai Tirupathi thriving with economic activity of Self Help Groups that Venu Srinivasan had kicked off.

The Bhattars in all the temples in that region have been receiving a monthly amount for the last 20 years that Venu Srinivasan very devotionally calls ‘Sambhavanai’ giving it a very sacred feel for the performing Bhattar. Hence each month this amount is handed to the Bhattar at his Sannidhi as a ‘devotional presentation’. After the restoration of the temples in Nava Tirupathi, devotees have been thronging the region in large numbers contributing to a far better livelihood for the priests. Most of the festivals have been revived and the Brahmotsavams in each of these temples is now celebrated in a grand manner.

Venu Srinivasan takes back a big learning from the restoration exercise of Nava Tirupathi. He says that the Nava Tirupathi restoration initiative taught him a very important and fundamental principle of how temple restoration activities had to go hand in hand with social rehabilitation.

TN CM’s mandate to Venu

For long after his involvement in Nava Tirupathi, he was focused on restoration work south of the Vaigai until one day, a few years ago he got a call that truly stunned him. The former Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu Late Mrs. J Jayalalitha was on a mission to restore the Ranganathaswamy Temple in Srirangam to its ancient glory. She had heard of the outstanding work Venu Srinivasan had undertaken in Nava Tirupathi. And as he picked the call from her office, he was told that the then CM was keen to have him lead the restoration exercise at the Srirangam Temple. And the mandate to him as the Chairman of the Board of Trustees was to make this the biggest and the best restoration the temple has seen in the last 200 years.

He had a humongous task lying ahead of him. There were big challenges in Srirangam. Over the last century, far too many new constructions had come up (for a variety of reasons). Many of the sub shrines had remained locked for decades. Sacred pathways had been blocked with the growth of huge bushes. Toilets had been built in different corners of the temple.

Huge quantities of Mud, to the height of 10 feet, had gathered around the sub shrines and the base structures of these shrines had gone under. The path way from Chakrathazhvaar Sannidhi to the Thayar Sannidhi through the Nandavanam remained closed for decades (except for Namperumal’s trip on the occasion of Panguni Uthiram and during Vasanthotsavam). The centuries old Granary on the Western side was seen in a completely dilapidated condition. Sesharayar Mandapam at the Eastern entrance, opposite the 1000 Pillar Mandapam too lay under the mud. Every sub shrine posed a unique challenge of its own.

Added to these were the human conflicts. Expert opinions with multiple views came from all corners, free and at great speed!!! And being a living structure, especially one where upwards of 40000 devotees turn up on festive days and over the weekend, one had to ensure that they were put to the least inconvenience.

He remained unfazed to one of the biggest challenging exercises he had undertaken in his life. One has to have forbearance in public places, especially in temples and if one is not prepared for bricks, mud and stones, one cannot do public service is a strong message he has had for himself ever since he began engaging in temple restoration activities.

Venu falls full length at the feet of Service Personnel!!!

There were times during this restoration process when Venu Srinivasan fell full length at the feet of opposing parties in full public view for the sake of bringing the temple back to its ancient architectural glory, such was his devotional commitment to the Lord of Srirangam. The securing of the Sri Pandaram was one such effort.

Venu Srinivasan is grateful for the restoration experience he had had at Nava Tirupathi. That came in quite handy in managing and tackling a number of the challenges he faced during this huge exercise in Srirangam. Crediting his entire team, he says it was a massive collective effort and the speed of implementation was quite unbelievable.

Architectural beauty had to be maintained and ASI norms had to be applied ‘Every bit of activity went through this filter to bring it as close to antiquity as possible’ says Venu Srinivasan.

His experience as the chief of a corporate auto major too has clearly helped in this large scale restoration of the Srirangam temple. He believes that administrative principles applicable to organizations are relevant to this as well. Principles of Quality, Management, House Keeping, Time Keeping, Punctuality, Processes and Systems were applied in every aspect of this huge exercise.

The Revival

60000 tonnes of debris was removed during this period giving one an indication of the enormity of the task that he had undertaken.

The 40+ sub shrines are now fully functional. The historic path way to the 1000 pillar mandapam from the Thayar Sannidhi through Periya Vachan Pillai Sannidhi is now open giving the devotees a glimpse of the architectural beauty of the 1000 Pillar Mandapam.

The steps of Sesharayar Mandapam are now visible for the first time in decades. The restoration of the granary should delight any devotee who had seen its state a few years ago.

Anyone who had visited the Sri Pandaram over the decades would have seen it as their favourite ‘prasadam’ stall. The removal of these temporary constructions that had come up in recent times led to the revealing of the ancient architecture of this 100 pillar zone.

The most remarkable piece of restoration took place at the Southern entrance of the temple. The removal of thick mud led to the revealing of the ancient base structures of a few of the sub shrines. It has now become a popular photo zone with the Raja Gopuram in the background.

It is unlikely that anyone else, other than Venu Srinivasan, could have pulled off such a huge restoration activity in this record time of 18 months. Among others, he credits Joint Commissioner Pon Jayaraman, who anchored the initiative within the temple, for making this restoration happen so smoothly.

Having completed the restoration end of 2015, he put in place strong processes that would help in the cleanliness of the temple right through the year. One finds a lot of green inside the temple and almost no dust within the huge temple complex. It was no wonder then that within 12hours of the Vaikunta Ekadasi festival this January, there was not a drop of garbage seen anywhere inside the huge temple complex, despite the presence of a couple of lakhs of devotees on that day.

In their praise, UNESCO’s Jury consisting of 9 international conservation experts stated that the conservation of temple has revived the extensive religious complex at the core of Srirangam temple town. ‘The project has revealed the original fabric of the shrines, water bodies and landscape within the temple’s four inner enclosures, which were once obscured under layers of inappropriate modern additions and tons of debris. Employing traditional construction materials and techniques, the restoration work was carried out in an authentic manner by local craftspeople in accordance with ancient building principles and rites.’

To him the feedback from the devotees is the biggest blessing that he could receive for his engagement in this exercise. Defence Minister Nirmala Sitharaman visited the temple in February 2016, just 3 months after the completion of the restoration and was truly stunned at what she saw and how different it was back from her college days in the 1970s. She commended Venu Srinivasan for his efforts and called it a 'Great Public Service' to get such a large temple back to its ancient architectural glory.

For all his untiring hard work, Venu Srinivasan looks back at this entire experience with a lot of humility, typical of the TVS family ‘I have been appointed as a servant of the devotees. And I have tried to carry out my duty to the best of my ability and as sincerely as possible. Ultimate satisfaction comes from the fact that devotees have found the temple clean and neat and have gone back happy after the darshan.’

He says that the UNESCO award for the Srirangam Temple is a matter of great pride for Tamil Nadu ‘It vindicates processes that were followed in the restoration bringing it back to its old glory’.

UNESCO’s Jury hoped that the temple would share the restoration lessons to encourage other heritage conservation efforts not just in India but also throughout the Asia Pacific region. And that was ultimate commendation for this truly large initiative that has now become a global role model for all other such temple restoration exercises.

( A version of the UNESCO award story featured today in The Hindu Friday Review)

In the 50s and 60s, the agraharam on South Chariot Street was vibrant with devotional Prabhandham and Vedic recital being an integral part of processions

The big financial stress in 70s and 80s, led by the taking away of lands, saw mass exodus of the traditionalists from the agraharam

How a forward thinking initiative from an IAS officer transformed the water level in Thiru Pullani

The historical grandeur of Thiru Pullani, a Divya Desam on the banks of the Sethu Karai on the South East Coast of Tamil Nadu near Ramanathapuram can be seen from the two decads of praise heaped on the Lord by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar.

தன்னைவிக்கிலேன்வல்வினையேன் தொழுதும்எழு

பொன்னைவிக்கும் அப்பூஞ்செருந்திமணநீழல்வாய்

என்னைநைவித்துஎழில்கொண்டஅகன்றபெருமான்இடம்

புன்னைமுத்தம்பொழில்சூழ்ந்து அழகாயபுல்லாணியே

Referring to the Lord as one residing by the sea shore, he says that the waves hit the shores with such thundering velocity that it looks like a galloping horse running at full speed.

கள்அவிழும்மலர்ககாவியும்தூமடல்கைதையும்

புள்ளும்அள்ளல்பழனங்களும்சூழ்ந்தபுல்லாணியே

The waves wash ashore gems and precious pearls almost as if presenting it to the feet of the Lord.

விரவிமுத்தம்நெடுவெண்மணல்மேல்

கொண்டு வெண்திரை

புரவிஎன்னப்பதம்செய்துவந்துந்து புல்லாணியே

All around Thiru Pullani, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar found Punnai, Serundi and Palm trees.

‘செழுந்தடம்பூஞ்சோலைசூழ்’, ‘பூஞ்செருந்திபோன்சொரியும்’, ‘பொன்னலரும்புன்னைசூழ்’புல்லாணிஅம்மானை

Water birds were seen flocking in pairs, bees humming sweet music in the groves dripping with nectar while the birds were seen perched on the tall Palm trees.

உலவுகால்நற்கழி ஓங்குதன்
பைம்பொழிலூடுஇசை

புலவுகானல்களிவண்டுஇனம்பாடு
புல்லாணியே

There were beautiful lakes that brimmed with water.

இலங்குமுத்தம்பவளகொழுந்தும்
எழில்தாமரைப்

புலங்கள்முற்றும்பொழில்சூழ்ந்த
அழகாயபுல்லாணிமேல்

The prosperity of Thiru Pullani could be visualized from the tall mansions described by him surrounding the temple.

Temple Legend

The Aathi Jagannatha Perumal temple in Thiru Pullani is one whose legend dates back to the Ramayanana. It is believed that Raama invoked the blessings of Adhi Jagannathan at this temple before he departed for Lanka. It was here that Vibheeshana, the brother of Ravana, came for refuge and surrendered to Lord Raama asking him for help and hence this is a temple said to be the most sacred for those devotees seeking ‘Absolute Surrender to Lord’. It was also here on the banks of River Sethu that Raama spread the Darbha grass and undertook a fast addressing Varuna (Sea Lord) looking to him for a solution to cross the sea. There is a separate sannidhi for Darbha Sayana Raama at this temple.

Raama’s marks on Squirrel

The Squirrel, which on seeing the monkeys helping Lord Raama, too wanted to help out the Lord. Being small in nature, they could not carry the trees and boulders. Hence, they did something innovative. The squirrels rolled on the sand and then ran back to the Sethu Bridge and dropped off the sand that had stuck to their body. So impressed was Lord Raama that he rubbed the squirrels with warmth, a mark that remains to this day on the body of every squirrel.

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar's praise and the first half of the 20^th Century

Into the 20^th century, things seemed bright, at least till the 1950s. The tall trees and the huge groves around the temple as described by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar were still around. The South Chariot Street was full of traditional residents with Bhattars, Parijarakas and Prabhandham Scholars discussing devotional aspects through the day and night. It was an agraharam that had over 200 residents. Periya Nambi, the acharya of Ramanuja, was the Sthalathar and held the rights for the first theertham at the temple.

Grand Festivals

The Chariot Festival was the biggest occasion in the year. People thronged in from 25 villages to pull the Chariot around the four big streets. As per the traditional system followed in this Divya Desam, the temple presented a large fixed quantity of Puliyotharai to the people from these 25 villages. They would hand this on the day of the Chariot festival to the head of each of the villages whose responsibility it was to distribute it amongst all the villagers. On this day, over 5000 people thronged the temple lining up to pull the wooden chariot.

Food was served to all the devotees through the entire period of the Brahmotsavam. There were multiple Dharma Chatirams dating back to the period of the Rayas that offered free accommodation to the visiting devotees.

Theerthavari was another grand occasion at the temple. Devotees in thousands accompanied the Lord to the Sethu Karai with the Lord being carried on the shoulders.

40 Divya Prabhandham specialists were present for the annual Brahmotsavam and accompanied by around a hundred Vedic Scholars, their devotional chanting during the processions carried positive vibrations to the residents. The people lived in contentment and were generally seen to be happy.

Vadakalai - Thenkalai Unity

67 year old Raghuvira Dayal who has spent his entire life in this Divya Desam was a witness to the highs and lows of this historical location. His close friendship of many decades with 64 year old Raghupathy is an indication of the Vadakalai- Thenkalai unity at this Divya Desam.

He says that in his teenage phase, the Bhattars and Parijarakars were sincere in their devotion. The Vadakalai and Thenkalai devotees stood alongside each other during the presentation of the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham. There were at least 400 devotees listening in to the Satru Murai. Just the Theertham presentation took a full two hours to complete.

The Downward slide -Financial Stress

But with land being taken away by the government, the traditional residents found themselves fighting for survival. For a couple of decades from the 1970s, it was a grave period for the kainkaryapakas of this Divya Desam. There was a huge financial stress on them. It was the period of mass exodus away from Thiru Pullani.

For a long time in the post independent era, Pullani was left behind on the infrastructural development front. Just one long distance train passed through the nearby town of Ramanathapuram. There were no buses to Thiru Pullani. The road leading to the ancient temple town was muddy and full of sharp stones. Bullock cart was the mode of transport for most who sought to have darshan of Darbha Sayana Rama. This made it even more difficult for the devotees to come from far.

A long wait for a Devotee to turn up!!!

It was the phase when Jayaraman Bhattar joined the temple. The slide had already begun and he was not so keen to continue the Kainkaryam that his father Padmanabhan Bhattachar had performed since 1949 for he could see gloomy days ahead. While his brothers chose to go the corporate way, he finally decided to be alongside his father and began his service as a Bhattar in 1979. He is now the senior most Bhattar having been here for almost 40 years.

During those early years, there were no more than 10 devotees on any week day and the Bhattars were always waiting at the entrance of the Sannidhi for that elusive devotee. And when the devotee finally arrived, the bhattar would present the story of the divya desam with great devotion delighting the devotee, sending him into happy tears. On most days, Bhattars barely managed to get Rs.5 or 10 a day.

With no Divya Prabhandham scholars in sight and the temple in financial stress, by the end of the 1980s, the once vibrant Pagal Pathu and Era Pathu Utsavam too had to be discontinued.

All the ancient Dharma Chatirams were taken away by different authorities and are now being used for different purposes!!!

Bhattar Kainkaryam for 65 years

Fragile looking 86 year old Padmanabhan Bhattar symbolizes the devotional commitment of the Bhattars from the era, gone by. He joined the temple as an archakar before he turned 20 at a monthly salary of Rs. 15 having learned Sastras and Vaikanasa Agama for a decade prior. He performed aradhana for the Lord for almost 65 years way into his 80s till age finally caught up with him three years ago. He continues to visit the temple each day as a devotee!!! His wife Narayani performed the service of presenting Kolam at the temple for several decades and was paid Rs. 2 per month for this service.

In his early years of his service, he remembers the agraharam on the South Chariot Street comprising of a 100 families all living in great unity. Once in a while he would get a Thattu Kaasu of 80 paise but it did not matter to him or his wife. To them, performing service to the Lord with total devotion came first!! Theirs was a big family but they lived a largely contended life. In those decades, 10 Padi thaligai was presented to the Lord each day. This has come down dramatically by almost 90% in recent times.

Revival of the Chakkarai Theertham

With the poor financial state and the overall gloomy scenario that had prevailed for a couple of decades, the temple had deteriorated by the end of the 1980s. The huge Chakkara Theertham in front of the temple bore no resemblance of a sacred tank and was seen with huge piles of mud. Bushes had grown tall and thick inside the tank. The steps of the tank lay hidden under the mud. There was stench all around. Added to this terrible state inside the tank was the one outside. There were encroachments all around the tank.

The stench was so bad that Munusami, now the president of Thiru Pullani Panchayat would close his nose while passing the tank when he went to school. Dogs that entered the tank would find their legs caught in the mud and died of stench, unable to move their legs. Around the temple tank one found encroachments all over. One could not even see the steps of the tank an indication of the debris that had engulfed the tank.

The then Collector of Madurai L Krishnan (IAS) was a staunch devotee of Aathi Jagannatha Perumal of Thiru Pullani. On one of his visits to the temple, he found the state of the tank and around to be deplorable. He was the one who initiated the restoration of the tank along with S. Muniyaswami who had just taken over as the President of the Panchayat and whose great grandfather had been the Peshkar at the temple.

Just around this time Krishnan was transferred. Before he bid adieu to Lord Aathi Jagannathan, he told the new president of the Panchayat to pursue his idea of Rain Harvesting System, something that was unheard of at that time even elsewhere in the state. Krishnan stressed on the importance of getting through this first stage of getting the water redirected into the tank and how in a matter of a few years, the residents would find a magical shift in the water level in the temple town.

Vijayakumar took over as the Ramnad Collector. Having heard of the suggestions of Krishnan, he called upon Munusami on his very first day of his office and asked him about his revival plans. Muniyaswami had drawn up a Rain Water Harvesting scheme that would redirect the monsoon rains from the Ponnadikal Odai (Canal) into the huge 16 feet deep tank. All of the water had previously been running into the sea through the western part of the town.

This system, that was ahead of its time, was immediately implemented and for the first time in many decades, the tank was filled with water. To the delight of the people, water level rose sharply in Thiru Pullani and by the next monsoon, all the wells were filled and there was joy all around. It was an initiative that even drew praise from the then CM J Jayalalitha.

Devotional Wave in Temples

At the turn of the century, things turned around for the temple and has now come a full cycle with a sudden wave of devotion that has caught on quite dramatically with the people. The Thiru Pullani temple now receives devotees in thousands over the weekends. On special festive occasions, the number runs into the high thousands with even the local residents not able to have darshan on those days. Money is pouring into the temple now positioned as a Parikara Sthalam.

However, Raghuvira Dayal sees a paradox in this positive turnaround‘When I was a young boy, the temple reverberated with devotion. There was little money on offer but devotion was high with devotees staying through the 10 days of the Brahmotsavam. The traditional families later left the town for better livelihood. The descendents of the hereditary Bhattars now lay positioned in corporate jobs overseas. While the devotees are pouring in money into the temple, the Divya Prabhandham chanting has come down to single digit. And the Vedic Chanting has become almost non-existent. There are not even a 100 to accept the thaligai presented during the Brahmotsavam as against the several thousands who were fed 50 years ago on each of the ten days. Divya Prabhandham and Vedic teachers are in short supply and the students even more. Now, the devotees always seem to be in tearing hurry. While there is crowd in large numbers, they do not stay at the temple for even half a day.’

Income from Temple lands

When Government took over the temple lands, they had to make periodic payment at a fixed rate (Rs. 6 was a rate fixed for Paddy 50 years ago). There has not been a single revision of this rate in 50 years. Worst still, in the last 10 years, the temple has not received any income from these lands. However, the Ramanathapuram Samasthanam ensures that the monthly provisions to the temple and the salary to the staff are paid on the 1^st of each month even though the salary to the Bhattars continues to remain at a very low figure of Rs. 1500!!!! The Samasthanam has 56 temples under their administration but not enough financial strength to compensate the bhattars suitably.

Good News for the Future

There is some good news around the corner. The original inhabitants have in recent times bought back the pieces of land they had sold decades ago. Almost two hundred traditional families have built houses South West of the temple in recent years.

Legendary TVS Iyengar was a staunch devotee of the Lord of Thiru Pullani and he would come and stay here every year. Over a decade ago, his Grand Son Venu Srinivasan, who has been associated with rehabilitation of the society in Divya Desams in Nava Tirupathi and Thiru Kurungudi, visited the temple and adopted a nearby village.

There is a general sense all around Thiru Pullani that the original inhabitants would one day, very soon, come back to this temple town to revive its ancient glory, especially the grandeur of the big festivals.

The temple is open between 8am –12.20pm and 330pm-8pm

Contact : Jayaraman Bhattar 94439 20136

In the 1970s, the frustrated Bhattars of Koodal Azhagar Divya Desam in Madurai refused to open the Sannidhi door when a 'Single Devotee' turned up

In recent years, with overflowing crowd, only ticketed devotees are allowed inside to have a close darshan of the Lord and others are left to see the Lord from 'afar' !!!

75 year old Saathatha Vaishnava Srinivasan has been performing service at the Koodal Azhagar Divya Desam in Madurai temple for almost fifty years and is the oldest serving person at the temple having joined the temple service in 1970.

Services of Saathathas

The Saathathas of Koodal Azhgar Koil (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2014/12/saathaatha-vaishnavas-saathaanis.html) have been bestowed with the responsibility of the outer door keys of the Moolavar Sannidhi. They also have a joint responsibility to bring the temple jewelry as and when required for the Lord. During processions, the Saathaatha Vaishnavas have the rights to carry the torch, a service referred to as ‘Thiru Mooga Bandham’

They also hold the rights of carrying the Kattiyam, the silver staff ahead of the Lord on processions to clear the ‘traffic’ ahead for the Lord to move smoothly through the length of the procession.

At the Moolavar Sannidhi, Saathathas have the duty of presenting the Tulasi for Archanai and the flower garland each day for the deity. The responsibility to pick up and hand over the provisions from the stores is also on them.

For all the above services as per the 1980 order, Saathatha Srinivasan of Koodal Azhagar temple gets Rs. 40 per month!!!! And this has not been revised once in the last 40 years despite him having presented several petitions to the authorities.

A Share in the Archanai Ticket

The Saathathas have a share in the archanai ticket along with the archakas. They also have a share in alankaram fee, sahasranamam archanai as well as a share from the income for the wedding fees (wedding taking place inside the temple).

During the first decade of his service at the temple in the 1970s, he did not receive upwards of Rs. 50 per day from these different collections. During that period the archanai tickets at the temple never crossed 6000 a month including during peak in Puratasi (Saturdays) and during the Vaikunta Ekadasi period.

Historically, the Saathathas were given a 3acre 84 cent land North of Madurai in Aathalai for their services. But rentals were never received from the land for several decades. And they just did not have enough money to fight this injustice in the courts.

Saathaatha Srinivasan currently has 15 days service every month as a Pandari. With the ‘Mirasu’ of Kanakku Pillai done away with, he also doubles up in that role at the temple for some additional income.

The scenario at the temple in the 1970s/80s

Till the 1980s, the scenario at the Koodal Azhagar temple, despite being in the heart of Madurai and very close to Meenakshi Amman Temple was so bad that the Bhattars for a large part stood outside the Sannidhi each day of the week waiting for the devotees to turn up.

And when just a single devotee arrived, the frustrated Bhattar at the Perumal Sannidhi would redirect him to the Thayar Sannidhi and then to the Andal Sannidhi and Navagriha Sannidhi hoping that there would be a few more devotees by the time he finished these sannidhis so he could do a combined darshan for 3-4 devotees.

It is unthinkable now that there was once a period in the not so recent past when the Bhattars were so down on motivation that they were not so inclined to opening the big door that they had kept locked and providing darshan to a single devotee.

The case of more devotees coming in rarely happened. And the redirected devotee would turn up after 30 minutes to find the same bhattar standing in the same position at the outer entrance of the Perumal Sannidhi. This time the Bhattar had no option but to take him inside as the sole devotee for darshan.

And minutes later he returned to the same position at the entrance to wait out another couple of hours for the next devotee.

In those decades, the archakas and the parijarakas split their duty between the Sannidhi and the Madapalli. The archakas of the temple had Mirasu rights. But as was the trend in several other Divya Desams during the 70s and 80s, many of them went away from Temple Kainkaryam given the financial insecurity and the diminishing income. A number of the descendents moved into corporate jobs and the Kainkaryam is now carried out through their ‘relatives’.

An exclusive role for each inside the Sanctum

Four people had four different roles inside the sannidhi at the Koodal Azhagar temple. The Archaka would place the sacred Tulasi at the Lord’s feet and also perform the Thirumanjanam, Aradhanam and Alankaram. Another would break the coconut, clean and bring the sacred plate. A third one would recite the 108 names of the Lord while the Pandari was the one whose role it was to present the Tulasi to the Archaka.

How the Temple has gone down

with the rising power of the HR & CE

The Nandavanam replaced by Anna Dhanam Hall

Around the Thayar Sannidhi there was once a beautiful Nandavanam from where the flowers would be brought for the Lord and Thayar. Unfortunately the HR & CE, as seen in many temples elsewhere, has converted this into an ‘Anna Dhanam’ Hall.

There was another Nandavanam 3kms from the temple near the Madura College. Sathatha Srinivasan would go there every morning to collect flowers for the Lord. He would then knot it and present as a garland. But this too was taken away by the HR & CE. And garland services came to be handed to outside donors!!!

Sacred Well Closed

There was a historical sacred well behind the Chakkarathazhvaar Sannidhi till a few decades ago. The service personnel of the temple used to have bath there. Unfortunately this well has been closed and they now use bore connections for water!!!

Agraharam replaced by Shops and Lodges

There was a beautiful agraharam at the Eastern entrance of the temple that was home to around 20 families (bhattars and parijarakas). This was in existence even till the 1970s. By 1980 they had begun selling their land and one now finds the once vibrant ‘Perumal Koil Agraharam’ filled with shops and lodges and many other high rise buildings right opposite the temple entrance.

Sthaneegas give way to HR & CE

Till the time the HR & CE took complete control of the temple, this one was under the control of the Sthaneegaas. Now they only hold the ‘mandapam’ rights of getting Theertham.

The Big Turnaround and Happy Bhattars

The Bhattars who a few decades ago looked out for that ‘elusive’ devotee now is at the receiving end at the other extreme. In the current scenario of the devotional wave that is sweeping the TN temples, the bhattars of Koodal Azhagar do not have a minute to relax even on week days. The Thattu Kaasu is overflowing. And added to that is the various external homams and samprokshanams that they take part in keeping them fully occupied all through the year. What a turnaround it has been in the last few years for the Bhattars and associated people in temples in the state.

Ticketed Darshan and Special access

The other system that this temple has had in place for long is that only the ticketed devotees have access to darshan of the Lord from the Artha Mandapa and the right to go around the inner prakara. The 'unticketed' free darshan devotees are restricted to have darshan only from far and without access to go around the inner prakara. Despite this month's court ruling preventing such special access to ticketed devotees, the temple continues to follow the old process leaving the unticketed devotees to have darshan only from outside.

Renovation Activity

The next Thiruppani is around the corner and has been pending for a while now. There are court rulings in place on the steps preceding a renovation exercise (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/01/hr-ce-irregularities.html). It would be interesting to see as to how this unfolds. There have been many new additions inside the temple including the Anna Dhaana Koodam near the Thayar Sannidhi, the roof in front of the Thayar Sannidhi. There are additions elsewhere too inside the complex. The area around the Madapalli looks really dirty. The flooring in some of the sannidhis look too modern for comfort.

One wonders if such additional constructions that have come up in recent decades will be removed and if the temple will be restored to its ancient past.

Time will tell but for now the Bhattars are having a happy time and are making up for last ground in the 60s and 70s.

The special art of carrying the Lord has remained largely traditional at the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam

As part of their apprenticeship, the Sri Patham Thangis used to practice on the Manal Veli for hours together in perfecting the different walking steps of Lord Namperumal

In the last 50 years, with the strengthening of the HR & CE department, this historical selfless service assigned by Ramanuja has become a Government Job!!!

A special and differentiating feature of the processions of Lord Namperumal at Srirangam is the way he is carried. The carriers of the Lord, referred to as Sri Patham Thangis were assigned by Ramanuja around a 1000 years ago. Over the centuries the rights to carry Lord Namperumal came to be divided among the four Sthalathars – Uthama Nambi, Parasara / Veda Vyasa Bhattar, Annangar Swamy and Rangachar with the rights to man each of the four corners resting with one of them.

In those days there were 16 of them with one Chief manning each of the four corners based on seniority. There was also an order in the way the postures were taken. Left side of the Lord was first, then the right side followed by the right side on the back and finally the left side on the back took position. And it was not a straight forward case of appointment in the centuries gone by. One had to start off as a helper to the senior members of the team.

In a year, they carry the Lord on their shoulders on around 200 days.

As a mark of respect to the Lord and in recognition of the special service provided to them by Ramanuja, the Sri Patham Thangis wear the coloured turban (Ramanuja’s Kashayam coloured) on their head. This vastram on the head is a speciality at the Srirangam temple.

A differentiating facet of the Sri Patham Thangis of Srirangam is that throughout the procession they carry the Lord on their shoulders.

They are also accorded a special invitation with the Saattai of the temple beating the floor to get them to march to the sanctum to carry the Lord. Only after this invitation, do they step into the sanctum to take their positions. Such is the special respects provided to the carriers of the Lord at the Srirangam temple.

The walking beauty of Namperumal and Sri Patham Thangis

Given that Lord Namperumal is renowned for his walking beauty, the Sri Patham Thangis, in the past, would practice the different walks of the Lord including Voyali, Simha Gathi and Sarpa Gathi each day in the Manal Veli on the Eastern side of the Ranganathaswamy temple.

In the early part of the century gone by, the new entrants would have to first prove their capability at the Kamalavalli Nachiyar temple in Woraiyur before being given an opportunity to carry Lord Namperumal at Srirangam.

There are 16 full time Sri Patham Thangis at the Ranganathaswamy temple, 4 for each of the four corners. All of them are now full time employees of the HR & CE department. On days that they do not have processional services, they perform Kainkaryam in smaller Sannidhis of the temple or manage the ticket counters.

82 year old Parthasarathy Iyengar performed this service for 50 years between 1950 and 2000. In the early days, he was paid a monthly salary of Rs. 27 which was then hiked to Rs. 35. Finally at the time of retirment, he received a salary of Rs. 4000 per month.

After performing only Sri Patham Kainkaryam for many years, towards the end of the 20^th century they were also provided Sannidhi Kainkaryam and each of the Sri Patham Thangis began to take care of an individual Sannidhi at the Ranganathaswamy temple.

A Selfless Service becomes a Government Job!!!

Only in the last 100 years or so, this became a paid service (employees) from the Kainkaryam that the four groups performed previously. Times had become difficult and there were financial constraints. The British Government took over all the powers from them says 80 year old Singaperumal Uthama Nambi, a descendent of Uthama Nambi clan and a resident of Mela Uthira Veethi in Srirangam for over 70 years.

He says that when HR & CE took over control of the temple, they started appointing Sri Patham Thangis as full time employees of the temple as against the historical precedence of this being a selfless service activity carried out by the four sthalathars.

The properties of Uthama Nambi too were taken away says Singaperumal Uthama Nambi with a tinge of sadness as to how this 1000 year old art went away from a ‘selfless service’ model to a ‘Government’ appointed job in the recent decades.

Singaperumal Nambi says that in centuries gone by they used to perform this sacred service of carrying the Lord with the help of their disciples. The disciples used to get the sacred food as a return for their service and they accepted it as a great blessing to be presented each day of the procession with the prasadam that included Dosai and Dhadhiyonam. And that was a great source of satisfaction for the Sri Patham Thangis for having carried the Lord on the day.

56 year old K Srinivasan is now the leader of the Sri Patham Thangi group. He had been trained to carry the Lord from a very early age. He was fascinated by this service and hence chose this. He applied for the Government posting in the 1980s and has been a Government staffer for the last 30 years.

Voluntary Group of 200 to carry the Lord

Over the last 50 years, Srirangam Vethal Service, an informal group of over 300 volunteers based in and around Srirangam, have been providing selfless service of carrying the Lord, especially on long street processions, in addition to the official temple ‘Sri Patham Thangi’ appointees. It is with the support of these volunteers that the long trips of Namperumal are managed.

It is pleasing to watch these volunteers gather in large numbers during the Panguni Brahmotsavam. They are seen at their best as hundreds of them take devotional turns to carry Lord Namperumal on his annual Panguni trip to Jeeya Puram on the outskirts of Tiruchirapalli. They are also present in big numbers in the evening for the Kona Voyali presentation on East Chitrai Veethi.

Devotionally, it would have been a happy scenario had Sri Patham Thangis remained a fully selfless service oriented group as was the case in the centuries gone by. But despite the move to becoming Government staffers, the carrying of the Lord has remained traditional at Srirangam as they continue to carry the Lord on their shoulders even on long trips to Woraiyur and Jeeyapuram and during the procession on all the Uthira and Chitrai streets on the Panguni Uthiram day.

At a time when the Lord is now carried on wheeled tyres in many Divya Desams including during Brahmotsavam and is placed on stools at regular stop-overs during processions, this special art of carrying the Lord on the shoulder with that distinctive coloured turban has remained traditional and operational without much deviation at the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam.

And that is something to cheer about.

Another Feather in Ravi's Hat

Inducted into the MCC Laws Sub Committee, will work alongside Mentor Simon Taufel for three years reviewing the Laws of Cricket

'Great Honour (as an Indian Umpire) to be included in the Prestigious Committee' - Sundaram Ravi

Umpire S Ravi (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2013/08/s-ravi-set-for-umpiring-test-debut.html), who will be officiating in the Boxing Day Ashes Test later this month, has just been inducted into the prestigious MCC Laws Sub Committee.

The Sub Committee, which sits under the principal Cricket Committee, undertakes global consultation in order to govern the Laws. MCC is the Guardian of the Laws and Spirit of Cricket.

Ravi will be joining his Mentor and former Elite Umpire Simon Taufel on the Sub Committee.

Ravi, who was elevated into the ICC Elite Panel in 2015 and has been there three years in a row (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/08/umpire-s-ravi.html) is now on the verge of a big umpiring milestone. He is just three matches away from becoming the 2^nd most capped Indian umpire behind Venkataraghavan.

Three years in a row, he has umpired at Lords (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2015/05/umpire-ravi-debuts-at-lords.html). He also had the privilege of umpiring in the first ever Pink Ball Test.

Ravi will be umpiring the last two tests of the Ashes series at the MCG and SCG.

Immediately after being informed of his appointment, Ravi told prtraveller that he considers it a great honour (as an Indian Umpire) to be included in the MCC Laws Sub Committee 'It is a big responsibility.'

He said that the committee will meet periodically to review the Laws of Cricket.

Only recently, MCC introduced the new Code of Laws, the first of its kind since the 2000 Code. This one - the 2017 Code- is the 6^th Code since its introduction in 1788.The Sub- Committee will oversee this code over the next three years.

The Divya Desam in Thiru Vellakulam stands out as an exception among the temples in and around Thiru Nangur

A Devotee Friendly Bhattar has lured devotees in large numbers to the temple over the last couple of decades

The HR & CE department will be delighted with the role played by 59 year old Madhava Bhattar of Annan Perumal Koil in Thiru Vellakulam over the last 35 years for he has almost single handedly made this a very ‘profitable’ Divya Desam for the department after the financial turmoil of the previous many decades. Like many of his contemporaries in the Chozha region, Madhava Bhattar used the contempt HR & CE had for financially poor temples to his advantage as he took ‘ownership’ of his role and marketed the temple in such a way that over the last decade, devotee crowd has swarmed the temple much to the delight of the department.

The Hundial is overflowing but almost all the expenses of the temple are taken care of by ‘Donors’. Anna Dhanam is in full swing though there are no takers to ‘consume’ the food. Marriage inside the temple is a regular event. The recent renovation undertaken through the donors crossed the Rs. 1crore mark.

The ancient Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu went through a tough time in the 20^thcentury especially for a few decades in the 2^nd half. Most were in financially poor state with the priests moving out away from temples. Therazhundur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2016/10/therazhundur-divya-desam.html), Thiru Mogur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/07/thiru-mogur-kalamegha-perumal.html), Nachiyar Koil http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2016/12/nachiyar-koil-divya-desam.html) and Erettai Tirupathi (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2017/02/erettai-tirupathi-transformation.html) were a few cases of how Bhattars were adversely affected in the 2^ndhalf of the previous century.

The worst among them were the set of temples in the Thiru Nangur region. Remotely located about 10kms from Sirkazhi and without bus services and limited access, the set of temples almost went into oblivion.

Temples in Thiru Nangur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2008/05/thiru-nangur-divya-desams.html) remained shut most of the time in the last few decades of the 20^th century. A single priest managed not just multiple sannidhis in a temple (as was and is the case with many Divya Desams in TN) but multiple temples in the region.

Annan Perumal Koil in Thiruvellakulam at the far western end of Thiru Nangur off the Sirkazhi – Nagapattinam Highway did not fare any better in the 1950s and 60s.

The birth place of Kumudavalli Nachiyar (wife of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar) and one praised by Thirumangai Azhvaar for its sacred tank, the only such praise of a tank in Nalayira Divya Prabhandham, Annan Perumal Koil however survived the horror period in its history thanks once again to the efforts of a Bhattar. The temple is now seeing a glorious revival having seen a one crore plus renovation earlier this decade.

கண்ணார்கடல்போல்திருமேனிகரியாய்

நண்ணார்முனைவென்றிகொள்வார்

மன்னும்நாங்கூர்

திண்ணார்மதிள்சூழ்

திருவெள்ளக்குளத்துள்அண்ணா

அடியேன்இடரைத்களையாயே

In 1950, 18 year old TS Ramaswamy Bhattachar joined the temple with a great deal of devotion. However, for over three decades, he faced severe financial pressure with almost no devotees and no income from the temple. Many historical festivals had to be stopped as a result of this financial crunch.

During this period, he was paid a salary of 10annas per month!!!

Income from his ancestral agricultural lands helped him bring up his five children. However given the uncertainty at the temple in those decades, four of them went away seeking greener pastures in corporate with Madhava Bhattar being the lone survivor at the temple. He had a special devotion for Lord Srinivasa whom Thiru Mangai Azhvaar praised as one he had seen in Thiru Venkatam.

வேடார்திருவேங்கடம்மேயவிளக்கே

நாடார்புகழ்வேதியர்மன்னியநாங்கூர்

சேடார்பொழில்சூழ்திருவெள்ளக்குளத்தாய்

பாடாவருவேன்வினைஆயினபாற்றே

A tough three decades

In 1955, Ramaswamy Bhattachar went around from home to home collecting funds for the 81 Kalasa Thirumanjanam. He managed to collect 206 falling short of the requirement by 21/-. For decades, his Thattu Kaasu was just a few annas. They rarely saw rupee notes in those decades. During the 11 Garuda Sevai in Thai, the biggest and the most popular festival in the region, the Bhattar of Thiru Vellakulam would get just Rs. 15. During the ten days of the Brahmotsavam, his additional income was a mere Rs. 30. The large family had money just enough to eat food every day.

On the 8^th day of Brahmotsavam, the Lord used to get one Pattu Vastram, the only vastram for the Lord in a year in those decades.Unlike the now popular festivals in Margazhi, in those decades there were no devotees at the temple during this month. Even on Vaikunta Ekadasi and the now well marketed Puratasi Saturdays, devotees were few. There were no shops in the entire region and one had to go all the way to Sirkazhi even for basic requirements. There were temple lands but no income accrues to the temple from these lands. Historically, there were ‘Kattalai’ for different utsavams but those too don’t accrue to the temple anymore.

It was solely through the untiring efforts of Ramaswamy Bhattachar that the temple survived through those tough times in the middle of the last century.

Entry of Madhava Bhattar

After his class VIII exam, Madhava Bhattar quit school and spent 6 years through the mid 1970s in Srirangam learning Divya Prabhandham from Kozhakodi Singam Iyengar at the Patshala and later agamas from Mannargudi Sona Dikshithar and Mohana Rangan Dikshithar in Guindy. He undertook the agama exam in Mannargudi and secured first class.

He took full charge as the sole priest at Annan Perumal Koil in the mid 1980s at a salary of Rs. 60 per month. The situation was so bad during that decade that Madhava Bhattar even played the role of a guide for the Nangur Divya Desams. A document dating back to that period shows a pending Electricity Bill of Rs. 30/-, such was the plight of the temple in those decades. Similar was the state in Therazhundur Aamaruviappan Divya Desam even 15 years ago, when the electricity department even pulled off the plug at the temple for non payment of the dues!!!

However, the enterprising Madhava Bhattar was determined to revive the fortunes of the temple. Over the last three decades, he has re-launched 21 festivals including Panguni Uthiram that had previously been stopped for lack of funds. He reached out to donors across the world and helped conduct the festivals and processions. The sacred tank, a speciality of this Divya Desam, that had been in a dilapidated condition has been refurbished in recent years. A new chariot has been built. The temple walls have been reconstructed.

Before passing away in 1985, his father shared with him an important message that Madhava Bhattar remembers to this day – Do not add anything new to the temple and keep the ancient ritualistic practices as is.

His life though has been full of challenges. 15 years ago, he wanted to lay coconut trees around the Mada Vilagam but the residents objected to this. Now one sees Coconut groves all around the temple, a pleasant sight for all devotees.

Controversies continue to surround him but he is unmindful of these and tries his best to serve the Lord with devotion.

Annan Perumal Koil remains by far the most devotee friendly temple in the region. Madhava Bhattar looks back at his 35 year stint with a great sense of happiness ‘The greatest satisfaction one can get is of performing service with complete devotion to the Lord. Follow the principles of Krishna's sayings in the Gita and do not worry about the results is a constant message that he reiterates to himself at constant intervals.

In 2008-09 when Madhava Bhattar was hospitalized in a serious condition in Madras, the entire devotee community prayed for his recovery. 'How blessed I am that devotees in high thousands invoked the blessings of the Lord to get me back to the temple'!!! That love from the devotees is what keeps him going. His salary after 35 years has risen to a princely Rs. 3200 per month!!!

He continues to keep his life simple. He travels around locally on his TVS XL moped and spends most of his time with Annan Srinivasa Perumal presenting his beautiful archanai and reciting Thiru Mangai Azhvaar's verses on Thiruvellakulam for the devotees to go back in time to the days of the Azhvaar and Kumudavalli.

Annan Perumal Koil is a standing example of how an enterprising Bhattar can create belief among devotees and get them lured to the Lord. The fact that this is an entry point in Thiru Nangur is a big advantage to this temple but it is credit to Madhava Bhattar that he has grabbed this location advantage with both hands and helped develop the temple. He performs archanai in his unique style of invoking the blessings of other Divya Desam Lords. He presents prasadam to all the devotees who visit the temple. For long, he has been the one who organizes guides for the trips to Thiru Nangur from Annan Perumal Koil. It is also this temple among the lot that is open for the devotees visiting from far and wide. Such an approach has helped him gather support for the temple from the devotees.

Madhava Bhattar is soon to turn 60 but the HR & CE seems to be so delighted with him that it would be no surprise if he continues in service, for a replacement for a priest as devoted and committed as him in such a remote location will be difficult to find!!!

Another Reminder to the HR & CE to get its act together

Centuries ago, Periyazhvaar went atop the Royal Elephant of Vallabha Deva Pandya around the streets of Madurai in a Grand Celebratory Event, While last evening in this annual enactment of this legendary episode of 'Pallandu Thodakkam', the great Saint Poet went around Koodal on a broken elephant

பேர்அணிந்தவில்லிபுத்தூர்ஆணிதன்னில்

பெருந்ஜோதிதனில்தோன்றும்பெருமானே

முன்சீர்அணிந்தபாண்டியன்தன்நெஞ்சுதன்னில்

துயக்கறமால்பருத்துவத்தைதிருமாசெப்பி

வானரமேல்மதுரைவளம்வரவே

வானில்கருடவாகனமாய்த்தோன்ற

வாழ்த்தும்ஈரணி பல்லாண்டுமுதல்பாட்டு

நானூற்றுஎழுவத்துஒன்றுஇரண்டும்எனக்குஉதவுநீயே– Vedanta Desikar's praise of Periyazhvaar's Royal Procession

The legendary episode relating to the creation of the first decad of verses in the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham was played out with historical flavour last evening at ‘Mei Kattu Pottal’, the location of the historical court of Vallabha Deva Pandya, the King of Koodal Nagar.

When Pandya King Vallabha Deva went, incognito, on his usual late night rounds through the streets of Madurai to understand the sentiments of his people, he met with a traditional Brahmin who introduced himself as one on a long pilgrimage from the Northern region in Avadh. He surprised the King with his philosophical view on life, one that gave him sleepless nights ‘What we want for a rainy day is saved during good times. Similarly what one wants after death should be accumulated now, in this very life.’

Unable to fathom the inner meaning of this, Vallabha Deva summoned his acharya and head priest Periya Nambi seeking an understanding of this statement. A big prize was announced to the one who provided insights into this. Many renowned scholars of the time tried their best but the king was not convinced and the bag of gold coins hung in the balance.

The Title of Bhattar Piran

Invoking the blessings of Koodal Azhagar, Vishnu Chittar, who was handed out a special invitation having heard of his devotional powers, arrived in the court of Vallabha Deva and presented his views on 'Parathathuvam' that stunned the Pandya King. His description of Lord Narayana as the Supreme Being and his narration of references from the Vedic Scriptures and the suggestion that worshipping him in one’s life time with devotion was the highest form of worship and was likely to lead one in the direction of what he or she sought after death thrilled Vallabha Deva Pandya.

Even as he was finishing his speech, the golden coins were showered on him, for Vallabha Deva instinctively realised that he had found the ultimate solution.

It was then that Vishnu Chittar was conferred the title of ‘Bhattar Piran’ by Raja Simhan I (Vallabha Deva). Delighted at this, the king ordered a royal procession for Vishnu Chittar around the streets of Madurai. The melodies of musical instruments resonated everywhere and Bhattar Piran was surrounded by a royal retinue with the Pandya king requesting him with open arms to ascend and mount on to the elephant top.

As he moved along in the procession in a grand celebratory event witnessed by a huge crowd, Vishnu Chittar heard dissenting voices from his detractors. They asked him if the Lord that he referred to was so powerful, would it be in his powers to show them the Lord.

It was then that Bhattar Piran, once again, invoked the blessings of Lord Koodal Azhagar. And shortly after, much to the delight of everyone there, Lord Koodal Azhagar, appeared on his Garuda Vahana from above the Ashtanga Vimana along with Goddess Lakshmi against the back drop of the clear blue sky.

Worried that evil eyes should not fall on this beautiful Lord, seen in this immaculate posture with his beloved Goddess Lakshmi,Vishnu Chittar falling into a trance, showered verses of praise expressing concern for the Lord’s safety using the bell tied to the elephant as his Thaalam.

16 year old's Garuda Sevai Alankaram

A most refreshing feature of the Pallandu Thodakkam Utsavam at the Koodal Azhagar Divya Desam on the evening of the Pagal Pathu Utsavam was the 2 hour alankaram of Koodal Azhagar by 16 year old Uppili Srinivas, under the able guidance of his father Rajagopalan Bhattar.

The alankaram was befitting the description given later in the evening at the Mei Kattu Pottal by the descendent of Periyazhvaar who recited the entire puranam relating to this legendary episode. Starting from the attire of Garuda, the Class XI student was meticulous in decorating the Lord paying attention to the minute details of the alankaram. With an alankaram as beautiful as this and patience he showed in decking up the Lord gives one hope for the future that the next gen will be involved in the service to the Lord.

Periyazhvaar atop a Broken Elephant

If the alankaram of Lord Koodal Azhagar atop the Garuda Mount was a delight to the hundreds of devotees who gathered at the Eastern entrance of the temple, the elephant vahana left them worried at the lack of commitment of the HR & CE officials.

While Periyazhvaar went on this legendary trip around the streets of Madurai on a royal elephant, the vahana on this evening was seen in a broken state with cracks all over the elephant’s body leaving one saddened with the affairs of the administration.

This episode of ‘Pallandu Thodakkam’ at the Koodal Azhagar Divya Desam on the eve of Pagal Pathu is the only one of its kind in a Divya Desam. And this event dates back to a legendary episode relating to the first decad of the 4000 sacred verses. And yet for this once in year event, one where the elephant is so integral to the festival, the officials have paid scant regard for the importance of the vahana.

All those centuries ago, Periyazhvaar went on a royal elephant while he now goes on a broken elephant in as prominent a Divya Desam as Koodal Azhagar, in the heart of Madurai.

Starting at 8pm, led by Periyazhvaar atop the white elephant, Koodal Azhagar made his way to Mei Kattu Pottal, the historical location of the legendary episode. The descendant of Periyazhvaar, decked in a beautiful cone like blue cap on his head and the cymbal in his hand, presented the ‘Pallandu Puranam’ starting with the description of Vallabha Deva and his forefathers followed by the specifics of this episode that led to Periyazhvaar’s Pallandu Praise.

Verses poured out instantly on Periyazhvaar having darshan of the high Lord and he sung for the Lord’s long life. It is the only set of verses among the 4000 verses where an Azhvaar has sung benedictory hymns of the Lord.

He suggests to the devotees who live with the only desire of serving the Lord to carry immediately talc paste and those with fragrances. Periyaazhvar asks them to resist worldly pleasures and asks them to join the come together as true devotees letting go off vain glory to sing the sacred mantra. Periyazhvaar says that it is important for us to give up our old bad habits and to connect with him. He cautions that no one whose thoughts are just on food shall be allowed here. He wants all of us to continuously utter the 1000 names of the Lord and sing benedictory praise wishing for his long life.

It was seen as so sacred that Thiru Pallandu became the first decad of the Naalayira Divya Prabhandham.

This historical utsavam ended with ‘Pallandu Thodakkam’ – the adyapakas presenting the entire first decad of the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham at Mei Kattu Pottal in front of Koodal Azhagar. Being the location of Pallandu, this utsavam of ‘Pallandu Thodakkam’ is unique to this Divya Desam.

One of the biggest temples in the Chozha Naadu

Praised by all Four Saint Poets

In the Chozha Period Inscription, Mookambigai is referred to as 'Yogi Iruntha Parameswari'

10 kms East of Kumbakonam on the Mayiladuthurai Highway is the towering Mahalingaswamy temple in Thiruvidaimaruthur located on a huge 20 acre space.

A huge tank at the Eastern entrance, 7 towers and 7 prakaras welcome one into the sanctum of the Lord who has been loftily praised by all the four Saint Poets.

முந்திச்செய்வினைஇம்மைக்கண்நலிய

மூர்க்கனாகிக்கழிந்தனகாலம்

சிந்தித்தேமனம்வைக்கவும்மாட்டேன்

சிறுச்சிறிதேஇரப்பார்க்கட்கொண்றீயேன்

அந்திவெண்பிறைசூடும்எம்மானே

ஆரூர்மேவியஅமரர்கள்தலைவா

எந்தைநீஎனக்குய்வகைஅருளாய்

இடைமருதுறைஎந்தைபிரானே - Sundarar

Pandya King and Maruthur

In the 3^rd prakara, one finds the idol of Varaguna Pandya of Madurai who came here to relieve himself of Brahmma Hathi Dosham. During one of his hunting expeditions, his arrow unexpectedly struck and killed a Brahmin. Bound by Brahmma Hathi Dosham, he came to Thiruvidaimaruthur, had bath in the Cauvery and invoked the blessings of Lord Mahalingam.

Liberated from the sin, he constructed the Western Raja Gopuram and a prakara for Lord Shiva to come on a procession. He also built a temple for his Kula Deivam Sokka Nathar at Thiruvidaimaruthur.

Unique Features

A unique feature of the location is that it is central to his 9 satellites in this region – Vinayaka at Thiru Valanchuli, Subramanya at Swami Malai, Chandikeswarar at Thiruvoipadi, Navagraha at Suryanar Koil, Nataraja at Chidambaram, Bairavi at Sirkazhi, Nandeeswarar at Thiruvavaduthurai, Somaskandar at Thiruvarur and Dakshinamurthy at Thiru Alangudi.

Another feature is that the temple is surrounded on all the four sides by Saivite Temples – Banapuram in the East, Thiru Neelakudi in the South, Thirubhuvanam in the West and the Idankodeeswaram temple in the North.

In the Thirumurai, the Lord is referred to as Idaimaruthan and Maruthavaanar. Thiru Gnana Sambanthar in his praise of the temple refers to the name of the Ambal as Perunala Mulai.

ஓடேகலன் உண்பதும்ஊரிடு பிச்சை

காடேயிடமாவதுகல்லால்நிழற்கீழ்

வாடாமுலைமங்கையுந்தானும்மகிழ்ந்து

ஈடாவுறைகின்றஇடைமருதீதோ

The inscriptions inside the temple refer to the Lord as Thiruvidai Maruthudaiyaar. Another inscription dating back to the Chozha period refers to Mookambigai inside the temple as ‘Yogi Iruntha Parameswari’. She is seen in a penance posture.

Just under a 50 years ago, there were a 100 houses in the agraharam. All the Mada Vilagams were filled with traditional people.

Sage Agastaya undertook penance here invoking the blessings of Ambal. When the Sage sought the blessings of Shiva as well, Ambal too undertook penance along with the Sage to seek the Lord’s presence here in Thiruvidaimaruthur. The Lord first provided darshan as Fire and then as a lingam. When the Sage pleaded for the full darshan of the Lord, He provided darshan seated upon the deer with a ‘Pirai’ on his head much to the delight of Sage Agastya.

Inscriptions

During the rule of Vikrama Chozha, donations were made for the perpetual lighting of lamp for Lord Mahalingam. Under Koppara Kesari’s reign, an order was made for the presentation of Chakkarai Pongal to the Lord and 3 Veli Land were allocated to this end. Also, 5 Veli land was given to feed 20 Brahmins every day. Also, during his rule, a donation was made for the Ghee Abhishekam on the night of Thiruvathirai.

There was a donation for the presentation of Thiru Amuthu for Lord Nataraja every No Moon day.

The Vasantha Mandapam was constructed during the rule of Kulothunga III. In Vaikasi, starting on the Punarpusam day 10 day Vasantha utsavam is celebrated in a grand way

Festivals

18 day Brahmotsavam in Thai is the biggest festival at the temple

10 day Kalyana utsavam in Vaikasi

10 day Aadi Pooram utsavam for Ambal

Pancha Moorthy Procession in Karthigai

Deity: Mahalingam

Ambal: Pragath Sundara Kusaambigai

The temple is open between 6am-12noon and 4pm - 9pm. Contact Dhandapani Gurukal @ 97917 82878

77 year old 'Joint Family' restaurant on Therku Vaasal serves the best ‘afternoon tiffin and snacks’ in Srirangam

Akkara Vadisal on Thursday, Kesari on Saturday and Bun Halwa on Sunday

Brothers Ranganathan and Anantharaman

A small almost unnoticed 'Palakkad Iyers' Joint Family run Vegetarian Restaurant on Therku Vaasal, opposite the ‘Ranga Ranga’ Gopuram in Srirangam is one of the best eateries, one that has served high quality homely tiffin and snacks for over 75 years.

72 year old Ranganathan Iyer hails from Palakkad. The 1930s had been a financially terrible period for the family and his father, the then 17 year old Venkatraman moved to Srirangam in 1940 in search of a job that could strengthen the finances of the family.

He found a job in a hotel opposite the police station in Srirangam near the bus stand. Within 6 months, seeing the quality of the food served there, a few residents of the temple town suggested to him to start his own eatery and helped him with a place right next to the Ranga Ranga Gopuram on South Uthira Street. It was a very small shop with an overhead thatched roof.

Theirs was a large family of 9 members and this was intended to lessen the financial burden.They had to pay a rent of Rs. 50 in the 1940s that went up to Rs. 500 by the early 60s.

A full meal at 4annas

In the initial decades, the shop was open from 6am to 10pm serving Idly, Dosai, Pakoda, Kaara Sev, Bhajji and coffee. An idly was sold at half an anna, dosai at 3/4 anna and the sweet savories at half an anna each. Coffee cost one anna while the most expensive was the ‘limited meals’ at 4 annas.

Ranganathan Iyer looks back at life during his schooling days in the 1950s ‘I never had a ‘slipper’ to wear. I would use the same trouser for months. My mother had to auction her wedding jewellery to fund my SSLC examination fees, such was the state of our family in those decades.’

The residents of Srirangam were delighted at these new entrants and enjoyed the high quality of the food served by the Palakkad Iyers. As the family members were involved in the day to day running of the restaurant, the staffing expense was minimal and they have been able to price it economical right from the beginning. And that has remained a big differentiating factor at Venkatesa Bhavan, named after Ranganathan's grand father.

However, they received a jolt. In 1960, two decades after its launch, the Ranganathaswamy temple served a notice on them to vacate the place and they lost the battle.

Soon, Venkatesa Bhavan moved on to Therku Veethi, a hundred yards from the Ranga Ranga Gopuram. They bought out the place in 1972.

Ranganathan Iyer joined his father in 1963 at the age of 18 and he has been there every day since. His elder brothers Ananatharaman Iyer and (late) Ramani Iyer too joined him.

Sweet Specialities

At this new location, they provided a daily 'sweet' special that has been now been a favourite of his guests for close to 50 years.

The specialities include Sevai, Jeera Boli, Akkara Vadisal, Rava Laadu, Bun Halwa and Kesari. There are five decade old regulars who make it every day to this restaurant that serves home like snacks and tiffin.

With the next gen moving away to more lucrative jobs, Venkatesa Bhavan shortened the timings a few years ago and now serves only between 2pm and 5pm each day. And much to the disappointment of the visitors, on most days they run out of stocks within a couple of hours such has been the customer loyalty at the restaurant.

The Ever Smiling Selvam

Anantharaman and Ranganathan take care of the Kitchen while Ramani’s son Selvam Iyer engages with the guests. Rarely does he ask his guests and serves the days specials in the order he thinks would best suit them. Even the number of idlies and dosais served to a guest are decided by Selvam, such is his friendly nature. And the customers quietly enjoy his servings.

Many restaurants have sprung up around the temple in recent times but the loyal guests of Venkatesa Bhavan restrict their entry to this over seven decade old eatery.

Venkatesa Bhavan is located at 75 Therku Vaasal. They can be reached on 78711 24430 / 97518 06262

First the Manian was not seen, then the archakas went missing on the procession

The Big Umbrella was forgotten

Protection from the rain came at the very end with the big shawl around the Lord's body on a Chilly Margazhi evening in Thiru Kudanthai

Finally an indifferent Bhattar climbed on to Garuda's hands to remove the Garland and threw it down on the floor - A sign of times we live in

The Sarangapani Koil in Thiru Kudanthai (Kumbakonam) is dedicated to Lord Aravamudhan, the one who directed Saint Natha Muni to Nam Azhvaar at Thiru Kurugur and helped revive the sacred 4000 verses that had been lost to the world at that time.

As per the Sri Prasna Samhitai slokam in the Pancharatra Agama, being present and offering one’s sincere devotion to the Lord at the three utsavams starting from Karthigai and end in Thai will liberate from another birth.

டோலாயாமாணம்கோவிந்தம்

மஞ்சஸ்தம்மதுசூதனன்

ரதஸ்தம்கேசவன்த்ரிஷ்ட்வா

புனர்ஜன்மநாவித்யதே

The 10 day Dolotsavam starts in Karthigai is then followed by the Pagai Pathu and Era Pathu Utsavam in Margazhi and then culminates in the Chariot festival on the 21^st day on Sankaranthi.

Lord Sarangapani does not place his feet on Garuda

The legend of the Garuda Sevai at Thiru Kudanthai is of the Lord Sarangapani rushing on his vehicle Garuda to answer the call of devotee Gajendra who is struggling for life. As this is a sudden call, the Lord is seen in an ‘Avasara Thirukolam’ during the Garuda Sevai at this temple. Typically a special path is laid out for the Lord (King) by the servants for him to come forward. And then the Ratna Pathai is presented for him to place his feet on. And usually, the Lord takes the permission of Thayar before leaving on any mission.

When he calls on Garuda for the trip, the vehicle asks him for a little time so as to ready himself but the Lord is on an emergency mission to save his devotee and has no time to wait for Garuda’s alankara. Hence he presses his feet on Garuda’s shoulders and generates the speed of movement to reach the destination faster.

At the Garuda Sevai here in Thiru Kudanthai, one does not find Garuda carrying the Lord with his hands and the Lord’s feet are seen pressed on his shoulders. Hence in this Divya Desam, unlike the ones in Kanchipuram and elsewhere, both the feet of the Lord are not ‘tall and straight’.

This is a Divya Desam praised by as many as Seven Azhvaars and the legend relates to the Lord coming directly from Vaikuntam on his chariot to marry Komalavalli Thayar. In centuries gone by, festivals were grand and Azhvaars paint a beautiful picture of the scenario around the temple. The river Cauvery gushing with water all the time, huge mansions of Thiru Kudanthai, the green ripe fields all around and the happy traditional seers chanting the verses in praises of the Lord.

Missing Devotees / Manian/ Archakas/ Umbrella!!!!
It is the day of the Garuda Sevai but devotees are few. Clock has ticked to 730pm, the prabhandham Ghosti is ready, the Sri Patham Thangis have also arrived but there are no devotees at this ancient Divya Desam that is said to have helped the revival of the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham.

There are thick clouds around and the time keeper of the utsavam (the Manian) calls out for the big umbrella to protect the Lord and his vehicle from the rains.

But the attention of most is on the phone and taking early shots of the Lord atop the Garuda Vahana. And the big umbrella is forgotten.

As the Lord makes his into the East Street, there are early signs of the rain with drizzle dotting through the two small umbrellas which are not large enough to protect the handsome looking Lord decked in beautiful jewelry.

A 20 minute wait in the middle of the road
in the middle of the road, the Lord’s procession is brought to a halt. Blissfully unaware of this development, the Ghosti have gone far ahead chanting Thirumazhisai Azhvaar’s Nanmugan Thiruvanthi. The Manian shouts out for the big Umbrella which he had originally ordered. The rain gets heavier and now the Manian is missing. The archakas, who have been at the temple for several years, are unaware of the next action. By now, the Ghosti that had made its way into the South Street leading to the Ramaswamy temple had made its way back wondering as to why Lord Sarangapani had followed them to listen to his most popular verse of Nadantha Kaal Nontha Vo

20 minutes passed and the Lord had stood in a stationary position with the small umbrella trying its best to offer protection from the rain.

And finally the big umbrella arrived and the decision was taken to see through the full procession around the four big streets of Thiru Kudanthai.

Where are the two Archakas!!!
Into the South Street, even more commotion was seen. This time the archakas had gone far too ahead of the Lord and the devotees with coconut and flowers were made to stand in front of the Lord with their presentation awaiting the return of the archakas.

By the time the Lord made his way into the deep end of the West Street, the rain had got heavier and the streets soggy making it extremely difficult for the Sri Patham to take a run with the Lord. A decision was taken to wrap the silky shawl around the Lord to protect him the nature’s fury.

The Sri Patham team was quite patient all along on this rainy evening until they made their way into the Sannidhi Street at the entrance of the Raja Gopuram.

The two wheelers placed right on the way of the procession were given a kick and those went tumbling down on the road.

It had ticked past 930pm when the Lord made his way back into the Vahana Mandapam. It was now thanks giving time to the donors of the day. However, by now, impatience had got the better of the bhattar.

The fate of the beautiful 8 Garland Alankaram

It was an eight garland alankaram that Chakravarthy Bhattar had put together for over two hours earlier in the evening giving the Lord a grand look. But Raman Bhattar, who was to remove the garland to present to the donors had no such patience. Climbing atop the vahana with both his legs on the hands of Garuda, he untied the knots with the scissors and threw the large garlands down on the floor for his colleague to pick up and place around the shoulders of the donors such is the respect presented to them at the end of the event.

It seemed that Raman Bhattar had forgotten that at this utsavam even the Lord did not place his two legs on the hands of his vehicle Garuda but the Bhattar in full view of the donors and a few other devotees who stayed back to receive the Lord back into the temple after the procession watched him climb on to the hands of Garuda to remove the garlands.

It is a sign of times that most of us are in a hurry all the time and the need is to get on to the next engagement gets the better of us and devotion takes a back seat in this process.

Finally past 10.30 pm, the Lord provided an Ekantha Sevai bereft of garlands and jewelry as he made his way back into his abode for the night’s rest on a rather indifferent evening of Garuda Sevai at this historic Divya Desam in Thiru Kudanthai.

It seemed appropriate to ask like Thirumazhisai Azhvaar asked in his Thiruchandha Virutham verse if the Lord was indeed tired at the end of this day for he had been made to have multiple unplanned stops and had to bear the brunt of the rain.

நடந்த கால்கள் நொந்தவோ

நடுங்க ஞாலம் ஏனமாய்

இடந்த மெய் குலுங்கவோ

இலங்கு மால் வரைச் கரம்

கடந்த கால் பரந்த

காவிரிக் கரைக் குடந்தையுள்

கிடந்த வாறு எழுந்திருந்து பேசு

வாழி கேசனே - திருமழிசை ஆழ்வார்

PS: Earlier in the evening at the Moolavar Aravamudhan Sannidhi, a young school boy, still in his formal uniform, stood in front of the Sleeping Lord for almost 5 minutes with devoted folded hands invoking the blessings of the Lord, a rare sight these days. It was unlikely that the boy would place anything in the Thattu and the priest took a similar stance (with his eyes closed) and ignoring the boy's presence and not presenting him with the Theertham. The boy waited but the priest ignored and realising the futility of his wait, the boy left!!!

A once vibrant Divya Desam with Prabhandham Scholars as a distinguishing feature saw a mass exodus after HR & CE captured power

Thirumangai Azhvaar's 'Radiant' Temple Town resonated with the sounds of Conch, Chants and Dance (anklets) all the time - Till half a century ago, oil for lighting the lamp inside the temple and during Street Processions was extracted from Iluva Trees but those trees too are gone now as HR & CE shifted focus to 'Donor' Funding Methodology

Vedu Pari on the eve of Panguni Uthiram is still celebrated in a grand manner

The cluster of temples within a radius of a few kms in Nangur was praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar, who was born in this ‘Aali Naadan’ region with an exclusive decad in the Periya Thirumozhi. Collectively in each of these, except the ones in Thiruvali, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar refers to them as being in Nangur. He found the entire region impressive with tall groves and big mansions all around and Seers chanting the Vedas with great expertise.

Entering the region after visiting the Thaadalan temple in Sirkazhi (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2008/05/kaazhicheeraama-vinnagaram.html), Thiru Mangai Azhvaar first reached ‘Thiruvali – Thirunagari’ (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2008/05/thiruvali-thirunagari-divya-desam.html). He was so impressed with the quality of life there that he dedicated three decads to the Lord.

The town resonated with the sounds of conch, chants and dance (anklets) all the time.

பாடல்இன்ஒலிசங்கின்ஓசை

பரந்துபல்பணையால்மலிந்து

எங்கும்ஆடல்ஓசைஅறா

அணிஆலிஅம்மானே

Several centuries after his description of the state of life in Thiruvali, the town seemed vibrant with Vedic and Prabhandham Chanting going into the 20^thCentury. Till 1950, the temple used to receive 1000 bags of paddy annually from the huge lands. This was distributed among the Kainkaryapakas who were residing in large numbers in the agraharam.

During the 19^th century the temple was under the control of Edamanal Vijaya Raghava Naidu. They took care of the temple and helped the proper conduct of the festivals. In the first half of the 20^th century, Keethi Pillai of Sirkazhi too managed the temple well and everything seemed to be going on track. During those 150 years from 1800, the temple had been in good shape with income accruing from the lands belonging to the temple helping run the poojas and the annual festivities in a grand manner.

Till the 1950s and 60s, the bhattars of Thiruvali Thirunagari were well respected and patronized. They were generally a contented lot and led a happy life performing daily aradhana for the lord. 4-5 bags of paddy were given to the kainkaryapakas such as the bhattars and parijarakas every month for their kainkaryam.

Lamp Oil from Ilupa Trees

Around the temple were found Ilupa Trees in big numbers. The leaves from these trees were crushed and large quantities of oil were extracted that was then used to light the lamp at the temple through the year. The oil thus extracted was also used for theevatti during the street processions of the Lord and Azhvaar reminding the then residents of the praise of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar as a location full of big trees and fragrant flowers.

When he first entered the Northern part of the Nangur region after having finished with his praise of Trivikrama at Kaazhichirama Vinnagaram, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar found Asoka Trees, Shenbagam and Jasmine flowers all around Thiruvali.

வந்துஉனதுஅடியேன்மனம்புகுந்தாய்

புகுந்ததற்பின்வணங்கும்

என்சிந்தனைக்குஇணையாய்

திருவே, என்ஆர்உயிரே

அம் தளிர்அணிஆர்அசோகின்

இளந்தளிர்கள்கலந்து

அவைஎங்கும்செந்தழல்புரையும்

திருவாலிஅம்மானே

He also found the region full of Serundi and Punnai trees. Valai Fish in paddy fields, male crabs resting on lotuses, bees humming sweet tones and the sharp beaked cranes caught his attention in Thiruvali. As he went around the temple town, he found lotus lakes, nectared groves, creepers and bamboo thickets.

‘புன்னையும்அன்னமும்சூழ்

புனல்ஆலிபுகுவர்கொலோ’

‘புண்ணைமன்னும்செருந்திவண் பொழில்

வாய்அகன்பணைகள்கலந்து

எங்கும்அன்னம்மண்ணும்வயல்

அணிஆலிஅம்மானே’

மாதவன்தன்துணையாநடந்தால்

தடம்சூழ்புறவில்

போதுவண்டுஆடுசெம்மல்

புனல்ஆலிபுகுவர்கொலோ

The Vedic Seers of Thiruvali

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar reserves the greatest praise of Thiruvali for the Vedic Seers. Not just those he saw during his visit but the expertise of the Seers and their manner of teaching the youngsters initiating them into the Vedas led him to the view that generations of them had lived there and had passed on their knowledge to the succeeding generations. They were seen learning and teaching the chants, the sacrifices and the ritual practices.

சந்திவேள்விசடங்கு

நான்மறைஓதிஓதுவித்து

ஆதியாய்வரும்அந்தணாளர்அறா

அணிஆலிஅம்மானே

Chariot Festival and the Wide Streets of Thiruvali

தேர்ஆரும்நெடுவீதி

திருவாலிநகர்ஆளும்

Chariot festival was a feature on the annual calendar as can be seen from his reference to the wide streets of Thiruvali that allowed the Chariot of Vayalali Manavala to run.

So thrilled was he with what he experienced and saw at Thiruvali that he called it the ‘RADIANT’ City.

HR & CE drives out the Kainkaryapakas

During his early childhood in the late 1950s and early 60s, Embar Rangachari, the Sthalathar of the Thiruvali Thirunagari Divya Desam remembers the agraharam as resonating with sounds of Vedic and prabhandham recital through the day. The Seva Kalam at Thiruvali was renowned in those days and a distinguishing feature. The Prabhandham scholars stood out for their style of presentation. Till the HR & CE take over there was Thatheyeeradhanam for visitors to the big utsavams including an exclusive one for the sacred Vaishnavite women.

And then the residents of Thiruvali felt the shock waves hitting them, something that they have not been able to recover from. Around 1950, the HR & CE took over the control of the temple, a move that spelt death knell for the traditionalists of Thiruvali.

Just two decades after the HR & CE takeover, basic sustenance had become difficult. Private agricultural lands held by the Kainkaryapakas were sold away following pressure from the Government policy. Almost the entire kainkaryapakas went away from the agraharam leaving behind just a couple of families at Thiruvali. A lot of them fighting for daily survival were wiped out from vaishnavite kainkaryam and for the first time in the late 1970s, one saw the Thiruvali traditionalists moving into the corporate world.

Since the takeover by the HR & CE, the nearby trees were cut resulting in loss of the oil, bemoans Embar Rangachari who spent his entire childhood and teenage years in Thirunagari in the late 50s and 60s. Like with many other Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu, the takeover by HR & CE saw the drying up of income at the temple.

The biggest negative swing over the last 50 years both at Thiruvali as well as at many other remote Divya Desams has been the financial maintenance and running of poojas and festivals has shifted completely to donors.

The mandate of the HR & CE was clear – look for donors, get them to fund everything at the temple, while the income that was to accrue to the temple went elsewhere. Today the temple does not get even 50 bags of paddy annually down from the 1000 bags decades ago, though the temple continues to own 100 acres of land.

61 year old Embar Rangachari went to school, first in Thirunagari and then in Nangur. He was the first graduate in his family having gone to college at Poompuhar. There was no electricity in his early childhood. There were no bus facilities to Nangur from anywhere. He and many other children would walk over 6kms to Nangur for their schooling. Later many students walked or cycled to Sirkazhi for their collegiate education. There was not enough money to pay Rangachari’s college fees in the early 1970s and it was a financial struggle during those years.

He just managed to sail through and became the first graduate in his family. However years of financial struggle and the influence of the political class on temples in Tamil Nadu led to the migration of the original inhabitants away from Thiruvali Thirunagari as income went down dramatically in the temple.

One brother of the Embar Sthalathar family decided to hold fort at the Agraharam. Aali Naadan had a double MA and became a school teacher in Sirkazhi. He has been a resident of the agraharam for over five decades without ever moving out holding on to the Sthalathar rights and performing the duties each day at the temple without fail, ensuring the presentation of the Thiruppavai Satru Murai in the morning and Nithyaanusanthaanam in the evening.

Establishment of Seva Trust ensures funding for the festivals and the celebration of the Brahmotsavam for Perumal in Panguni and the Avathara Utsavam for Thiru Mangai Azhvaar in Karthigai.

A 1990s revival through Thiru Koshtiyur Madhavan

Soon after the Maha Samprokshanam at the Sowmya Narayana Perumal Divya Desam in Thiru Koshtiyur in 1992, Koshtiyur Madhavan found that a number of Divya Desams in remote locations in Tamil Nadu were lying in dilapidated state. Four decades under the HR & CE had seen the deterioration of these ancient Divya Desam way beyond what one could have ever visualised.

It was a period when Madhavan began visiting Divya Desams bringing along with him a group of volunteers. When he reached Thiru Nangur, he was in a state of shock for he found cobwebs all over the temple. The doors were infested with Karayaan. There were no lights inside, anywhere in these temples. There was not enough oil to light the lamps. There was just a single Bhattar to take care of multiple temples in Nangur.

In each of these temples, he recited the decad of pasuram relating to that temple and explained the meaning to the volunteers, as part of an educational exercise for them.

Madhavan felt energized after rendering these pasurams and felt inspired to bring these temples back to life. He came back to Madras and met with Ramachandra Wodeyar with a request. He asked for a Van to go around Divya Desams and bring back the lost glory of many of the ancient Divya Desams. He also requested him for ladders, tube lights, Vastrams cleaning powder, oil and related materials.

With the group of around 15 volunteers, he came back to Thiru Nangur in the new van and cleaned up these temples. He installed lights in all of these temples. He organized oil to light the lamp in each of these temples. He collected provisions and presented to these temples for daily thaligai. In each of these temples, he presented Sahasranama Parayanam.

Repair Works at Thiruvali Thirunagari in the 90s

At Thiruvali Thirunagari, it was Thirukoshtiyur Madhavan who supported a phased repair work contributing over a lakh of rupees in the early 1990s that helped the Divya Desam survive a period of downturn even in simple maintenance works. If it had not been for his efforts in the early 1990s, the set of Divya Desams in Thiru Nangur might have gone into oblivion by now.

While the entire agraharam in Thirunagari was lined up with traditionalists chanting Vedas and Prabhandham in the early 1950s, one now finds just a couple of families hanging on to keep the daily poojas running. There are even fewer in Thiruvali with the temple remaining in a largely uncared for state, unlike Thirunagari, the twin temple that is now tied together as one Divya Desam (along with Thiruvali) that has gained prominence with an agraharam, a Raja Gopuram and twin Chariots, one each for the Perumal and Thiru Mangai Azhvaar.

Like most of the other Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu, Thiru Nangur too has seen a dramatic revival in fortunes. The devotee wave that is sweeping TN temples has had a positive impact on Thiruvali Thirunagari. Over the last decade or so, the Vedu Pari Utsavam in Panguni (http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2016/04/vedu-pari-thiruvali-thirunagari.html) has seen big devotee crowds. The Garuda Sevai on the Thai Amasvasya day in Nangur has led to the temple gaining ‘eyeballs’ among the devotees. But all these may have come a generation too late.

It was once home to the best of vedic and prabhandham scholars but except for a few days in a year during the three big festive occasions, the entire agraharam and the streets around are rather quiet. 50 years of HR & CE rule has done its damage. The NextGen are now in colleges and into the corporate world away from the traditional Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu. The money is back in temples but the Kainkaryapakas are not there anymore. There is a Sign Board of a Veda Patshala on the Mada Street but does not seem to have any inhabitants!!!

Bhattars too are seeking greener pastures

Padmanabha Bhattar, whose father had performed aradhana for a few decades at this Divya Desam, has been at the temple for the last 25 years but it has not been a greatly rewarding period financially. Like many of the descendants of the large Sthalathar family, the bhattar’s son too has joined the race for an engineering degree. And it is likely that after spending a huge amount on the college fees and related expenditure, he too will go the corporate way at the end of the course.

It might take another generation or two for the traditionalists to make a comeback into these remote temples. Or if the corporate lure and the large cities bind them into the modern life style, the kainkaryapakas may have been lost to the remote temples for the foreseeable future.

Only time will tell.

PS: My interest in Thiruvali Thirunagari was inspired by Prabhandham Acharya Srihari Parthasarathy(http://prtraveller.blogspot.in/2015/11/srihari-parthasarathy-prabhandham.html) who explained the intricacies of Thirumangai Azhvaar’s praise on this Divya Desam to his students a decade and a half ago

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