Temple, Travel and Sport

The Boy who once stopped the legendary Musiri Subramania Iyer at the gate of the Thiruvayaru Music Festival now runs a five decades old Popular Pain Relieving Balm and a Tooth Powder business from the Traditional North Street

Located on the Northern Banks of Cauvery, Thiruvayaru (the place of the Five Rivers) is renowned for the Pallava Period Pancha Naatheeswara temple, one where Saivite Saint Poet Thirunavukarasarar had darshan of Lord Shiva as seen in Kailasam and more recently for the Thanjavur King Saroboji’s Vedic School that over the last century has turned into Government Music School. This is also the starting place of the famous Sapthasthanam Utsavam in Chitrai when Nandikeswarar, on a horse Vahana, along with his wife Swayambirakaasai, on a palanquin go on a 7 city procession along with Ayarappar and Aram Valartha Nayaki. The four streets around the temple are referred to as Mada Vilagam. Behind these four streets are the four big streets where the Lord goes on a procession during the Brahmotsavam. On Mattu Pongal day, the cows and the temple elephant are decorated in a grand manner and go out on a procession to Thillai Sthanam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/10/thillaisthanam-neiyarappar-temple.html), 1km west of here on the road to Kallanai.

The name Thiruvaiyaru

South of this place towards Thanjavur is the river Cauvery and four of its tributaries – Kudamuruti, Vennar, Vettaru and Vadaaru. Sacred water from these five rivers is used to bathe the Lord. Hence this place came to be referred to as ‘Thiru’ ‘ai’ ‘aru’. When you are at the temple, do not miss trying this out. In the South Western corner of the third prakara, if you call out for ‘Aiyaaraa’ facing the Northern direction, you can hear it echo seven times.

In the last half a century, this historical temple town has come to be home to a popular medicinal solution for head ache.

Abound with Vedic Scholars

74 year old Sriram spent his first 15 years of his life on the North Street in the 1940s and 50s. He studied at the now over 125 years old Srinivasa School, that one of the most famous schools in the region. His father A Panchapakesan was the head of the Raja Patshala in Thiruvayaru, one that produced several Vedic Students in the 1st half of the 20th Century.

During the 1940s and 50s, Vedic Pundits were present in big numbers at Thiruvayaru. The Vedic Scholars chanted the Vedas all the time. They lived a simple and contended life. The entire North Street was full of traditional Saivites and over a 100 households lived on this once vibrant Street. Sriram remembers the days from his school days when the grandly decorated Lord passed by his house on North street during the 13 day Brahmotsavam in Chitrai, the biggest festival of the year “Even though the priests were financially challenged, they did not go after money. There was a religious fervour in those days. Values were very high. The priests performed pooja with devotion and residents were just as devoted to the Lord.”

Home to Sanskrit Education

Sanskrit was seen as an integral part of life in Thiruvayaru till the middle of the previous century. Sundaresa Shivachariar, an agama expert, taught Sanskrit free at home to all the students who were interested. Sriram’s father was so engrossed with the Sanskrit teachings that he began to converse with his Guru in Sanskrit, such was the impact.“My father participated in promoting Sanskrit by including the language as a subject at the Patshala. Balakrishna Sastrigal was added a Kaavya teacher at the Patshala.”

Another renowned scholar of those times Subramanya Shivachariar taught agamas "He was such an expert that even the popular Pichai Gurukal of Pillayarpatti would come here to clarify doubts on agama from him." Despite the in depth knowledge in the Sanskrit knowledge and agamas, all of them lived a simple life. They were always seen with Rudraksham on their body and that was the only 'ornament' in the body. There was no financial desire in any of them. They were all dedicated to sharing their knowledge with students. Often one heard “Shana Karthavyaha”, asking for ‘everyone’s attention to be with the teacher’.

Sapthasthanam Utsavam

In those days, Thiruvayaru was renowned for the Palanquin. When the Lord passed his house on the North Street, he saw 32 Sri Patham Thangis carry the Lord on their Shoulders on their way to the Aabath Sahayeswarar temple in Thiru Pazhanam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/12/thiru-pazhanam-abath-sahayeswarar-temple.html). The way they carried the Lord, it almost seemed that the Lord was floating in the air, such was their devotion.

Serfoji Rajah on the Banks of the Cauvery

Tula Snanam was a popular occasion and the bathing ghats were full during the month of Aipasi. The mandapam near the banks was a popular relaxing spot for Prince Serfoji of Thanjavur. Also, the Lord used to make a trip here on the occasion of Vasanthotsavam.

The Young School Boy, Muddy Roads and the Chariot Festival

Back in the 1940s and 50s, there were no cement roads. Sriram was part of many 100s of boys who pulled the Chariot during the Chitrai Brahmotsavam along the mud roads. Often times, the Chariot would get stuck in the muddy roads. With the sheer numbers, they managed to pull the Chariot out and moved on with the procession around the four big streets of Thiruvayaru.

Sriram stops Musiri Subramania Iyer at the Festival gate

Till the middle of the 20th Century, two different units conducted the Music Utsavam in Thiruvayaru. Finally the Thyaga Brahmma Sabha won a court battle against Nagarathna Trust and has since carried on the music festival. Sriram was part of the Volunteers team that managed the big crowd during the music festival. He was a strict volunteer and followed the rules. Once, he had the audacity to stop the legendary Musiri Subramania Iyer at the gate asking him for the pass only to be told that the entrant was the President of the Sabha but Subramania Iyer congratulated and appreciated the young boy on his commitment to his service.

The music festival itself was an elite gathering. For those that visited, mainly the high profile, it was an annual get together of friends from different fields. It was also during that phase when Nadaswara Vidwans fought for their rights and made their way into the committee. Over time, the funds of the trust have increased and coffers have now became FAT.

In those decades, with the facility of bathing ghats and a comfortable mandapam, Chettiars performed the final rites in Thiruvayaru.

Train Ticket from Madras to Thiruvayaru
Till the final quarter of the previous century, those who wanted to travel to Thiruvayaru from Madras would be issued train tickets till Thiruvayaru. At the Thanjavur Junction, a readily stationed bus would pick up the passengers soon after the train's arrival and drop them at Thiruvayaru, such was the service of taking the passenger to the final mile, what is now popularly referred to as 'Last mile delivery' in business parlance. Even with all the modern development, rarely do we see such connectivity these days.

Mass Exodus from the 1960s

As seen with so many other ancient temple towns in Tamil Nadu, the 1960s saw the residents of Thiruvayaru move away from this temple town. Sriram himself moved out of Thiruvayaru in 1960 first to St. Josephs College, Trichy to do PUC and then for his Engineering degree at IIT Madras. After his PUC, he wrote the entrance examination for IIT Madras and secured a seat. His father was keen that he take up the legal profession and wanted him to do B.L but having got a seat at IIT Madras, Sriram came to Madras and then worked in different companies for over two decades. During his school days, politics was considered as a service to community. As he grew up and took to the corporate world, politics had transformed itself to a means of business.

Not too many of the original inhabitants reside here these days with most of them having sold their traditional homes to outsiders. He bemoans the changed life style after the mass exodus of traditionalists from Thiruvayaru. He came back to Thiruvayaru in 1995 but there haven’t been too many others who have returned in the last couple of decades ‘Those days, even the headmaster of the school wore only a Veshti and Thundu. Both their internal and external appearance reflected a simplistic lifestyle. As the needs were limited, everyone found contentment in life. Now with the growing needs, problems have risen multifold.”

Sriram finds a drastic difference in the way Vedic Scholars and Priests conduct themselves across the state, though he finds that in his own Thiruvayaru things are not that bad. Even in their external physical appearance, the simplicity is gone and one finds them adorning glamourous jewels and golden bracelets. Even before they agree to a ritualistic event at home, money is discussed. It was not so then. Priests too changed with times. They began to seek money. The willingness to learn came down and the learning curve has seen a downside.

He is happy that the priests in Thiruvayaru still stick to tradition as much as possible. They remain committed to the Lord and continue to serve with devotion.

Tooth Ache results in a great business idea

Once in the mid 1960s, Sriram’s brother, himself a doctor had a severe tooth ache. Panchapakesan prepared a composition out of the blue and tried out a tooth powder that his son could use. He felt good using it to brush in the morning amidst his tooth ache. It worked well. Very soon, it became a hit with his friends and those in the town. Those that liked it came back to him for more. He began by just distributing to close friends. And suddenly through word of mouth, demand shot up. And his father had to increasing the production rapidly. It had instantly became a big hit and a successful business. For a long time, from the mid 60s, the production was done through the help of a ‘mixie’ and the sales has pre dominantly been through Sarvodhaya Sangam.

After the tooth ache resulted in the making of a tooth powder, a head ache led to his father making a pain balm!!! And then when baldness became an issue for the mid aged, he also began making hair oil that helped in good growth of hair but this he made only for his friends and did not pursue for long.

For over 50 years, the family has now been making tooth powder and pain balm that has become very popular. After his return in 1995, he has been taking care of the tooth powder and pain balm business from the North Street. From the days of grinding the powder in a mixie, he has with his IITian skills mechanized the whole process. Customers still contact him only through the postal letter mode and a few through the phone and he caters to their demand. He does not go out of the way to market his product. Those that have used the pain relieving balm have remained loyal for several decades.

As a man who has been managing the business over these 25 years, he finds the recently introduced GST a great tax reform and a boon for manufacturers. He says that for decades, traders lived a life without paying tax and that all of them find the current tax reform challenging.

Sriram is happy that people have found their composition from the 1960s useful in their everyday lives and hopes to continue to service those that demand as long as possible. And he also continues to enjoy the procession of the Lord on the North Street even though he is saddened by the fact that the Lord now makes his way on Wheeled Tyres.

When here, also visit Kandiyur Brahmma Sira Kandeeswarar temple (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/09/kandiyur-brahmma-sira-kadeeswarar.html) 4kms South.

A beautiful Rock Cut Cave Temple atop a hill near Azhagapuri
Lord Ranganatha is seen in a handsome Anantha Sayanam Posture
Original inhabitants, now residing across the world, are trying to revive the temple to its historical glory

The scene at this twin temple takes one back to the days of the remote Divya Desams (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/07/thiru-mogur-kalamegha-perumal.html) in Tamil Nadu in the 1970s. The hereditary priest, belonging to the nearby Parapaatti village remains seated at the foot of the rock cut cave temple. But the devotee remains elusive. There are no bus services to the temple. Express buses between Madurai and Srivilliputhur do not even stop on the highway 2 kms away. To catch an auto to the temple, one has to reach Azhagapuri, 4 kms away. Historically, though, devotees walked from far away to have darshan of the Lord inside the cave temple and to participate in the grand processions. There are still ancient vahanas- Sesha Vahana, Hanumantha Vahana and more inside the cave temple, an indication of the vahana processions from the past. The Garuda Vahana is one of the biggest in the region and looks grand in stature but has remained stationary in a corner for decades.

For such an ignored temple, there is a certain peace inside the rocks.

Ranganatha in Anantha Sayana Kolam

Enroute atop the hill, one finds a handsome Lord Ranganatha in an Anantha Sayana Kolam flanked by Sri and Bhoo Devi Thayar, Brahmma, Anjaneya and Garuda. The Moolavar Gopalaswamy atop the hill was seen alongside Rukmini and Satyabhama facing the Sathuragiri hills. The Moolavar was in a damaged condition and the entire sanctum was reconstructed in the 1990s.

One of the special features at the temple is the long secret tunnel from the Moolavar Sannidhi that probably connects this temple to Madurai, as was the case with many ancient temples across Tamil Nadu.

A flourishing village in centuries gone by

Mothagam was once a flourishing temple town. A few centuries ago, there were 7 lakes around this temple brimming with water and the villages around the temple were vibrant. This was a Kula Deivam for people from all the neighbouring villagers in this region. Bhajans of devotees was a specialty at this temple. In the centuries gone by, this zone was renowned for Gold, Navaratna and Diamond stones and this hill was referred to as ‘Swarna Giri’. This was a temple frequented by the Naickers.

And then the villages all around Mothagam were sub-merged under severe floods and the lakes and villages were lost forever.

Grand Processions anchored by priest’s forefathers

Ramachanadran Bhattar’s forefathers performed pooja through the first of the 20^th century when the Utsavams were grand including Vahana processions. Chitra Pournami was a special occasion at the temple. On Vaikasi Pournami, the Lord travelled 3miles to Kopinayakkan Patti on a procession.

The first Saturday of Aani too was a special day in the year for it was the Ubayam of the Rajah with the Lord providing Muppalam Sevai – Panchamirtam Abhisekam. Krishna Jayanthi was celebrated in a Grand way. On all the Saturdays of Puratasi, the Lord went on a procession around the hill on a ‘Giri Valam’ accompanied by Ghee lit lamps. On the Karthigai day, the top of the hill was lit by a Deepam that was so glittering that one could have darshan from several kms away. From atop the hill, one can still see the towering Raja Gopuram of Srivilliputhur in the South West and the cracker town of Sivakasi in the South East.

The Slowdown
The 1970s proved a downturn at the temple. It was a decade when the ancient utsava idols were lost. After years of investigation, a report was put out that the idols could not be traced. New utsava processional idols were newly made from Poompuhar in the 1990s. However, there have been no processions for decades with the utsava idols locked up at the ICON center in Madurai for lack of security at the temple.

On select occasions in the year, the temple continues to wear a festive look like it once did. Over 10000 devotees throng the temple on Puratasi Saturdays. In the recent past, a tar road has been built right up to the foot of the temple. The next step is to get public transport as well as regular auto services to the temple to make it convenient for the devotees to visit.

Devotees from across the world who once visited this rock cut cave temple are now coming together to support the temple and are hoping to revive the once grand utsavams at the temple.

The temple is open from 8am to 3pm. Contact: Ramachandran @ 98429 83256/ Navaneetha Krishnan @ 95853 43900/ Gopal Bhattar @ 84891 25026

When here, also visit Azhagiya Manavalan temple at Vatharayiruppu ( http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2015/03/azhagiya-shantha-manavalan-temple.html)

How to reach
Mothagam is off the Madurai/Thirumangalam - Srivilliputhur National Highway, 4kms from Azhagapuri. Auto from Azhagapuri bus stand to the temple entrance will cost Rs. 100.

The last of the Azhvaars provides darshan in a rare Sayana Kolam on the 6^th day of the Avathara utsavam at Thirunagari Divya Desam

It is well past 1am on a rainy Saturday (Dec 7) night at Thirunagari, the only night in the year when Thiru Mangai Azhvaar provides darshan in a special Thiru Kolam. The diminutive and the tireless 50 year old Padmanabhan Bhattachar (Paddu to those in the temple circles) has had a long day and is now in the process of unveiling the once in a year Thiru Kolam to the 50 odd devotees who have stayed back to witness this rare event in a Divya Desam. It is the only day in the year when Thiru Mangai Azhvaar, who praised Thiru Kudanthai in such glorious verses in the Thiru Ezhu Kootrirukai, provides darshan in a Sayana Kolam similar to the one seen at the Aaravamudhan Divya Desam.

And as the screen opened just around 1.30 am, devotees stood awe-stuck watching Thiru Mangai Azhvaar in the Sayana Kolam while his beloved stood at his feet to serve him. As the devotees left the temple after being served hot Kesari as part of the Sayana Sevai, their talks centered on this rare posture of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar, that is displayed every year as part of the 6th day celebrations of his Avathara Utsavam at Thirunagari (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/01/thiruvali-thirunagari-divya-desam.html).

A Packed Prabhandham Ghosti

The scene earlier in the day left one surprised. For a remote Divya Desam with minimal public transport facilities, the temple was seen packed with Prabhandham members reciting the Perumal Thirumozhi and the sixth canto of Periya Thirumozhi of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar. A few from Thiruvallikeni Divya Desam made a big difference with a devotional rendering of the sacred verses as did the several budding boys seen in a traditional attire who had made their way from Srirangam Patshala for the Utsavam.

Badri Narayana Bhattar, the lead priest at Kazhi Cheeram Vinnagaram Divya Desam (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2008/05/kaazhicheeraama-vinnagaram.html) was at Thirunagari to support the decoration of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar and Kumudavalli Nachiyar ahead of the evening procession on the Elephant Vahanam. Even as the rain belted down in buckets on the 6^thevening, Padmanabhan Bhattar along with his team were focusing on the minute details of the alankaram. In a happy development, the next gen of Bhattars too has been an integral part of this Utsavam. 19 year old Gokul, the son of Padmanabhan Bhattachar and a student at Sastra Engineering College too was involved in the decoration of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar supporting his father through the Utsavam.

After two hours, the screen finally opened up for the devotees just after 8pm with Thiru Mangai Azhvaar seen in a grand princely attire, flanked by Kumudavalli Nachiyar. Also seen atop the elephant was Sinthanaikiniyaan. By 9 pm, well over a hundred devotees had gathered at the mandapam. And for the next half hour, the Ghosti Satru Murai took devotees back in time to memories of the period when this Divya Desam reverberated with devotional rendering of the Divya Prabhandham.

The Sri Patham too gathered in big numbers (over 30 of them) for this difficult elephant vahana procession. Soon after 10pm, the rains gathered speed again and unfortunately the procession lasted only till the end of the Sannidhi street. Following the commencement of the Divya Prabhandham verses, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar and Kumudavalli Nachiyar rushed back to the temple.

Princely Attire to Kalyana Thiru Kolam

The sixth evening of the Thiru Mangai Azhvaar utsavam is one of three different alankarams. Shortly after 11pm, Padmanabhan Bhattar and his team got down to the second alankaram of the evening – from the princely attire seen earlier in the evening, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar now moved into a wedding Thiru Kolam. An hour later and just after midnight, he along with Kumudavalli Nachiyar made their way to the Eastern Raja Gopuram for the ‘exchange of garlands’.

Thiru Mangai Azhvaar in Sayana Kolam

Soon it was time for the most eagerly awaited event of the 6th day. After the Sripatham moved the couple into the Kannadi Arai opposite the Evarivenchilayaan Sannidhi, Padmanabhan Bhattar and his team got down to the final and the most exciting alankaram of the evening. The events of this long day came to an end just before 2am when the devotees went to the Kannadi Arai for a glimpse of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar in a handsome Sayana Kolam similar to the posture of Lord Aaravamudhan of Thiru Kudanthai Divya Desam, with Kumudavalli Nachiyar seen standing and serving him at his feet. It is the only Divya Desam and this sixth day the only occasion when Thiru Mangai Azhvaar provides darshan in a Sayana Kolam.

While the devotees made their way home, there was still an hour of work left for Padmanabhan Bhattachar for he had to remove the latest alankaram and get Thiru Mangai Azhvaar ready for the early morning decoration on the 7^th day. It was almost 3am when he finally left the temple for a well earned rest after almost 12 hours of non stop work, such is the life of a priest during big utsavams in remote temples.

25 years at Thirunagari Divya Desam

His father Venkatesan Bhattar, now 88, had been at the temple for many decades and when it was time for him to retire, officially, Padmanabhan Bhattar took over 25 years ago in 1995 at a monthly salary of just Rs. 360/-. Those early days at this temple were one of the worst for Divya Desams in Thiru Nangur. While some sort of revival was beginning to happen in many other Divya Desams, Thiruvali Thirunagari was at least a decade behind. Even the few devotees that visited the other Divya Desams at that time did not turn up here for there were no public transport facilities in those days and this was far too remote to access. The roads were terrible and one could not reach this temple without the help of a guide. Through most of the days, he would just sit at the eastern entrance looking for that elusive devotee so he could share the greatness of this region as praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar. In 2000, he also took charge as an Archaka at Thiruvali Divya Desam ( that remanis a Trustee run temple to this day) at a monthly salary of Rs. 200.

Financially Challenging Days in the 70s and 80s

Throughout his childhood in the 1970s and 80s, things were so challenging, financially, that his mother would wait for his father to bring the temple thaligai (boiled rice or pongal) after the morning pooja and it was only then and with whatever quantity he brought from the temple that she would feed the entire family. It was a very difficult phase for the family with very little salary from the temple and an almost nonexistent Thattu Kaasu.

In the 25 years of his service, Padmanabhan Bhattar’s salary at Thirunagari temple has risen from Rs. 360 to Rs. 3500, an amount that is just not enough to sustain a reasonable life with cost of living having mounted in the last two decades. This utsavam takes a big toll on him for there is very little rest on most days. Unmindful of the physical and financial challenges, he is easily the most active service personnel at the temple.

Devotional Commitment to serve Thiru Mangai Azhvaar

Recently an offer came his way to support a Samprokshanam in another temple that would have made him richer by atleast Rs. 20000 for a 4 day service which is several times his official salary for the month from the Thirunagari temple. In the two and a half decades he has been at Thiruvali-Thirunagari, he has let go several such revenue earning opportunities, opting instead to serve Thiru Mangai Azhvaar and Kalyana Ranganatha at Thirunagari and Lord Narasimha at Thiruvali.

If priests such as Padmanabhan Bhattar had chosen to consistently opt for more lucrative financial opportunities in other temples, Divya Desams such as Thiruvali Thirunagari may have struggled to survive those testing phases in history. On this sixth day of the Thiru Mangai Azhvaar avathara utsavam, Padmanabhan Bhattar spent almost 12 hours non stop shuttling between the mandapas and the moolavar sannidhi straddling work between alankaram for the Azhvaar and the daily routine pooja service at the temple.

There was no one to even enquire if he had had a meal on this long tiring day. Paddu Bhattar has survived these 25 years in such a remote temple simply through his devotional commitment to the Lord and Azhvaar unmindful of the very low salary that he has been paid.

On non utsavam days he shuttles on his old TVS XL bike between Thiruvali and Thirunagari to perform daily service at both these temples jointly considered as one Divya Desam. It is through the decades of tireless efforts of bhattars such as Padmanabhan Bhattar that devotees are now able to have darshan in such remote locations. Else, these temples may have long passed into the history books.

Saptha Vidanga Kshetram

The story of how a devoted hereditary Gurukal understood the psyche of the current generation of devotees and created a monthly utsavam to bring crowds back at this Thevaram Sthalam

On Thei Pirai Ashtami every month, a Homam is performed for Bairavar, an event watched with devotion by over 2000 people

42 year old Pichumani Gurukal has been at the Appar and Thiru Gnana Sambandar praised Thiruvamunathar temple in Thiruvaimur, a location so remote that there are no bus facilities to this temple, for the last three decades. So attached was he to this temple that even as a young boy, he would run fast from the school to come and assist his father, who served for over 50 years at a salary of Rs 60 at the temple. Not too far in the distant past, the entire village ( and the lands) belonged to the temple. Close to 25 people worked at the temple. Utsavams were vibrant. His mind was not too focused on academics. He learnt the Agamas from father, now 76 years old Panchakshara Shivachariar, a Sanskrit Samrat and one of the most respected in the region. His father is the sthaneegam at the Murugan temple in Ettukudi, where he continues to perform service at this grand old age. Pichumani Gurukal's grandfather too had served at the temple for several decades.

Even as Pichumani Gurukal grew up, he saw a steep deterioration in the finances at the temple. Income from the lands dried up. Salary of the priests and the service personnel did not go up even as the cost of living rose drastically in the passing decades. Brahmotsavam came to a halt over three decades ago as did many of the other annual utsavams at the temple. While the priests have been here for several generations and continued to serve Lord, the service personnel began leaving the temple one by one and there are just three of them a scenario that would have broken the heart of many priests but the ones from this family.

With his devotional commitment coming to the forefront, Pichumani Gurukal brought together the residents of this ancient temple town. While many issues remain including the issue of low salary to the priest, he has with the support from the villagers revived the Vaikasi Brahmotsavam. Abhisekam for the Lord is done six times in the year.

Thei Pirai Ashtami Utsavam

As part of his revival initiatives, Pichumani highlighted the special features of the Ashta Bairavar, a differentiated Sannidhi at this temple. And this got the devotees interested as many found their problems being sorted out through the special pooja and homam he performed on Thei Perai Ashtami. And as the word spread, devotees are now thronging the temple in 1000s on the ashtami day every month. Over 2000 people are fed on this day after the Homam and Pooja.

As with many other ancient temples (Patteeswaram Durgai (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/07/patteeswaram-thiru-gnana-sambanthar.html) and Thirunallur Saneeswarar being cases in point), the original history has been lost to the devotees of the current generation and they have taken to the parikara and prarthana route to this temple. As he went through challenging times in the first two decades of his service at the temple, Pichumani Gurukal realized the psyche of the devotees. And as he created this new belief of Ashta Bairavar solving all their problems, the temple atleast on the devotees front has seen a sudden transformation.

The Legendary Tale - Saptha Vidanga Sthalam

Indra sought Vishnu’s help to protect the Devas from an Asura. Vishnu handed him the idol of Thyagaraja and asked him to perform pooja. He also directed him to Chozha King Musukuntha, a great Saivite Devotees, as the asura had obtained the boon of being killed only by humans.

After the asura was killed, a delighted Indra took Musukunta to his abode. An invisible voice directed him to take Thyagaraja’s idol to Thiruvarur. When Indra offered a boon to the king for helping him win, the king asked for the idol leaving Indra stunned. That night, Indra asked sculptor Vishwakarma to make 6 similar idols. When Indra offered the king any of the 7 idols hoping that the king would not be able to distinguish the real one and would take one of the 6 that were created the previous night, Musukuntha Chozha with his true devotion identified the original one. Delighted with the sincerity of the king’s devotion to Lord Shiva, Indra handed him all the 7 idols. Musukuntha made his way to Thiruvarur in a Chariot procession and celebrated with a grand festival.

After installing the original one at Tiruvarur, he took the other 6 idols and installed it at Thiru Kolili, Thiru Kaaraayil, Thiru Maraikkadu, Thiru Vaimur, Thiru Nallaru and Thiru Nagai. These 7 are referred to as Saptha Vidanga Kshetram.

The story of Musukuntha, the Chozha King

Once while Shiva and Parvati were resting in the groves of Kailasam, a male monkey kept throwing Vilva leaves on them. Shiva intervened in time to prevent an irritated Parvati from uttering a curse on the monkey reminding her that it was Shivarathri and the monkey had indeed performed a divine deed by placing Vilva leaves on them. Thus, a likely curse turned into a blessing. The male monkey requested that he be born with a monkey face in memory of his previous birth and as a great devotee of Lord Shiva. This was Musukuntha Chozha who ruled the Chozha kingdom with Karuvurai as his capital.

Appar and Thiru Gnana Sambandar's Praise

Appar in his Thiru Kurun Thogai and Thiru Gnana Sambandar in his Thiru Murai have praised the Lord of Thiruvaimur.

Appar's Praise

The Temple is open from 630am -12noon and from 5pm-830pm. Contact Pichumani Gurukal @94880 77126

There are a number of inscriptions on the outer walls of the Prakara that date back a 1000 years.

How to reach

Thiruvaimur is 2kms from Ettukudi Murugan temple. Buses every hour from Katchanam on the Thiruvarur -Thiruthuraipoondi Highway. Auto from Katchanam will cost Rs. 200.

From Thiruthuraipoondi, take the Nagapattinam bound bus and get down at Keezhaiyur. An auto from Keezhaiyur to the temple will cost Rs. 50,

Pancharatra Agama Expert Kannan Srinivasan Bhattar joins the historical Kothandarama Temple in Mudikondan as the Lead Priest
He has always been a 'stickler' of the traditional way of performing aradhana
One finds Lord Rama in a Unique three bend posture at this temple whose legend dates back to his return trip after defeating Lankan King Ravana

56 year old Kannan Srinivasan Bhattar (Jawahar Bhattar), a Pancharatra Agama expert who once served in Divya Desams such as Thenthiruperai, Srivaikuntam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2008/05/srivaikuntam-vaikunta-nathan-divya.html) and Koviladi Appakudathan has joined the over 1000 years old Kothandarama Temple in Mudikondan, near Sirupuliyur Divya Desam as the Lead Priest. He will also double up as the ‘Cook’ at the Madapalli.He has also been given a traditional accommodation in the Agraharam in the West Street of Mudikondan by an original inhabitant Shri Sundararajan, who also is in charge of the activities at the temple.

The temple had been without a full time priest for a while. It was through the efforts of the well networked and much liked Vasan Bhattar of Therazhundur Divya Desam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/10/therazhundur-divya-desam.html) that Kannan Srinivasan Bhattar has been roped in as the full time Bhattar just ahead of the Karthigai Festival.

Vasan Bhattar, Therazhundur

With Jawahar Bhattar at the helm, it is hoped that some of the historical festivals at the temple including the Pagal Pathu Utsavam in Margazhi and the 10 day Rama Navami Festival will be revived to its historical past at the temple.

Jawahar Bhattar, who belongs to the Varam Perum Periya Perumal Bhattar clan that performed service at the Kanchipuram Varadaraja Perumal Temple, began his temple association as a young boy in the 1980s at the Srinivasa Perumal Temple in Veeravanallur near Athalanallur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/03/athalanallur-gajendra-varadaraja-perumal.html) supporting his grand father at the temple.

It was during that period that the young Jawahar Bhattar was initiated into Pancharatra Agama by the revered Mahara Bhooshana Bhattar at Veeravanallur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/03/veeravanallur-sundararaja-perumal-temple.html). Decades later, he further strengthened his knowledge in Pancharatra Agama by tutoring under Periya Thiruvadi Bhattar of Thenthiruperai.

The Sannidhi Agraharam at Mudikondan

Divya Desams Archaka Experience

In the late 1990s, he performed archaka service at Makara Nedun Kuzhai Kathan temple at Thenthiruperai (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/09/thenthiruperai-divya-desam.html) and at the Kallarpiran Temple at Sri Vaikuntam Divya Desam. It was a period when Venu Srinivasan had just begun restoring the then dilapidated Nava Tirupathi temples (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/02/erettai-tirupathi-transformation.html).

He has always been a stickler for the traditional way of performing aradhana at the temple, not for him the hurry. This lack of 'adjustment' to the devotees' hurried needs at temples has made him incur the wrath of devotees and authorities alike, for these days one is expected to 'toe' the current trend. Jawahar Bhattar is not one such.

In the early part of the last decade, he had moved on to the Appakudathan Divya Desam in Koviladi. His years there were a devotional treat for the devotees who visited the temple in that period. His devotional rendering of the verses relating to Thiruper Nagar, his explanation of the temple legend and of course the 'appam' every evening kept one devotionally connected to that Divya Desam. However, a clash between the HR & CE and the then Rayar family that held control of that Divya Desam brought an early end to his stint at that Divya Desam as he as caught between the two groups (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/11/thirupper-nagar-koviladi-divya-desam.html).

He then performed service at the Rama Temple in Thenthiruperai and subsequently at the popular Lodhi Road Rama Temple in Delhi, where he was also involved in the installation of an idol of Kulasekara Azhvaar.

A rare 3 Bend Posture at Mudikondan

At Mudikondan, Lord Rama is seen in a rare posture with three bends in his body- the face is seen in one direction, the hip in another and the leg in a third bend. This posture is referred to as ‘Uthama Lakshana’.

Mudikondan - Tale from the Ramayana

The legend of Mudikondan is said to date back to the return trip of Lord Rama after defeating the Lankan King Ravana. Earlier while on his search for Sita, Bharadwaja Rishi had requested Rama to stay with him and have food at his Ashram at Mudikondan. However, eager to pursue his search, Rama could not accede to the request but promised to return along with Sita.

Having defeated the Lankan King Ravana, Rama landed here as promised in his Pushpak Vimana. Excited to play host to Rama, Bharadwaja Rishi requested Rama to provide darshan with his crown (Mudi). As Rama displayed his crown here, this place came to be called Mudikondan (the one with the crown).

With this stopover at Mudikondan, Rama asked Hanuman to make a quick trip to Nandigram to inform brother Bharatha that he would soon be back in Ayodhya. However, by the time Hanuman returned, Rama had adorned the crown and finished his meals. Saddened by the fact that his Lord did not wait for his return and did not leave a plantain leaf for him, Hanuman decided to stand outside. Hence, at Mudikondan, one finds the Hanuman Sannidhi outside the temple complex. Historically, the belief has been that Plantain does not grow here in Mudikondan.

Removing the shrubs on the Vimanam

While Samprokshanam was done earlier this decade in 2013, there is a thick growth of shrubs on the Moolavar Vimanam that could lead to damaging the structure. It is hoped that the authorities will remove these at the earliest to prevent damage.

The temple is open from 8am-12noon and 4pm-7pm. Contact Jawahar Bhattar @ 96006 38095.

How to Reach

Mudikondan is located about 10kms South of Sirupuliyur Divya Desam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/08/sirupuliyur-divya-desam.html) and 10kms West of Thiru Kannapuram (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/11/thiru-kannapuram-divya-desam.html). Therazhundur Divya Desam is about 20kms North West from Mudikondan.

Buses ply every half - hour from Mayiladuthurai and Tiruvarur and stop right front opposite the temple. By Train, one can take the Chennai- Karaikal night express and get down at Peralam Railway Station. Mudikondan is just over 5kms from Peralam. Passenger Trains stop at Nannilam Railway Station from where Mudikondan is a couple of kms West. Auto costs Rs. 100.

Sath Guru Nathar and Ambal Mangalanayaki provided darshan in Kalyana Kolam to Sage Agastya

Belief is that one's anger will go away if a devotee visits the temple and invokes the Lord's blessing as it was here that Brahmma secured back his 'Sath Gunam'

10 day Brahmotsavam Revived, Income from Temple Lands recovered, Pending Salaries paid to Shivachariar and Service Personnel through the efforts of the HR & CE EO

EO Murugaiyan looking to recover 200 acres land belonging to the temple that has been encroached in recent years

The Sath Guna Nathar temple in Idumbavanam, 40kms from Thiruvarur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2015/12/thiruvarur-thyagaraja-temple.html) near Thiruthuraipoondi, is a 1500 years old Thiru Gnana Sambandar praised Padal Petra Sthalam, amidst green fields and tall coconut trees, that was once vibrant with blooming flowers that the Lord draped as beautiful garlands. Just under half a century ago, the agraharam, on the North Street, was still vibrant with 20 traditional families residing in this historical location, whose legend dates back to the Mahabaratha. This is one of the 28 Pitru Mukthi Sthalam.

Sasi Sekara Shivachariyar, belongs to a family that has been performing abhisekam for the Lord for centuries. He was initiated into the agamas at a Thiruvayaru Patshala in the 1980s and began assisting his father at the temple even as a teenager. He officially joined the temple as the archaka in 1992 at a monthly salary of Rs. 500. His father had served the Lord at a salary of Rs. 80 for several decades. For over two decades, Sasi Sekara Shivachariyar’s salary remained static at Rs. 500, which too had remained unpaid for long periods of time. It is only recently that this has been raised to the thousands.

A slowdown among devotees but Shivachariar stays back at the temple

The 1990s was also the phase when the original inhabitants of Idumbavanam had all but left the historical temple town in search of greener pastures in the cities. Devotees were few. The once grand Brahmotsavam in Vaikasi had come to a halt. Thattu Kaasu did not come Sasi Sekara Shivachariyar’s way that decade. Income from temple lands too reduced. But none of these proved a dampener to the Shivachariar's devotional commitment to Sath Guru Nathar as he continued to serve the Lord with the same commitment that his fore fathers had shown all their lives.

Kalyana Kolam Darshan

It was here that Sage Agastya received Kalyana Kolam darshan, the 2^nd in this region after Vedaranyam. As the revered Sage received this darshan, belief is that wedding hurdles will be resolved if one visits this temple and offers sincere prayers to Lord Sath Guru Nathar.

Reduce one’s anger, Regain Sathvic Character

The legend has it that Brahmma undertook penance in this Vilvaranya Kshetram to recover his ‘Sathvic’ Character that he had lost. As he secured the Sathvic Guna at Idumbavanam after invoking the Lord’s blessings, the Lord came to be called Sath Guna Nathar and the theertham came to be referred to as Brahmma Theertham. Belief is that one’s anger will reduce if a devotee invokes the blessings of Sath Guna Nathar.

The Name Idumba Vanam

The legend of the place dates back to the Mahabaratha. It was here in this kshetram that Bheema fought with asura Idumba, who resided in this region and killed him. Later, he married the asura’s sister Idumbi. The popular character Ghatotkacha was born here. Hence this Kshetram is referred to as Idumbavanam.

HR & CE EO's positive gesture

Till 1942, the renowned Sambasiva Iyer managed the temple as the hereditary trustee. It was that decade that he handed over the reign of the temple to the HR & CE.

A positive development this year has been the refreshing approach of the newly appointed EO Murugaiyan who had previously served at Thiruvenkadu (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/10/thiruvenkadu-somu-gurukal.html), where he had initiated the process of directing water into the Chandra Pushkarani, which is now seen full to the brim.

He has ensured that some of the pending income from the lands of the temple has been recovered with coconuts coming in good numbers from the tall trees in this region. The EO has helped close out salaries to the priest and the service personnel that had been pending for a long time. He is also looking to recover 200 acres land belonging to the temple that has been encroached in recent years. He is also initiating the process of refurbishing the temple.

It is a rare gesture from a HR & CE official, not hitherto seen in most other Thevarm Sthalams.

Revival of Brahmotsavam

This decade, the ten day Brahmotsavam in Vaikasi too has been revived including the Theppotsavam. Devotees from the 10 villages around Idumbavanam have taken up the organizing and management of each of the 10 days of the big annual festival including carrying the Lord during the Vahana Processions.

In recent years, Pradosham and Margazhi Thiruvatharai have become popular at this temple.

How to reach

Idumbavanam is 15kms South West of Thiruthuraipoondi and 5kms East of Thillai Vilagam Rama Temple. Buses ply every one hour from Thiruthuraipoondi. Auto from Thillai vilagam will cost Rs. 125.

When here, visit Thiru Nellikaval (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/08/thiru-nellikaval-nellivananathar-temple.html) Padal Petra Sthalam is 30kms from here. Another Thevaram Sthalam Thiruvoimoor (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/08/thiruvaimur-thiruvaimurnathar-temple.html) too is about 30kms from here.

One of the Pancha Rama Temples

The Hereditary Priest Kothandarama Bhattar has not participated in a single event outside of the temple in three decades having committed himself fully to Veera Kothandarama at Thillai Vilagam

48 year Kothandarama Bhattar decided even as a young boy that he would dedicate his entire life to the service of Veera Kothandarama at the Dhandakaranya Kshetram of Thillai Vilagam, one whose legend dates back to the Ramayana. After defeating Ravana, and on his way back to Ayodhya, Rama stayed here in the ashram of Baradwaja Rishi. The five feet tall Moolavar Rama at Thillai Vilagam is seen in a majestic posture sporting a handsome smile. To his right is Sita seen in a Kalyana Kolam. Kothandarama provides a ‘Tribangi’ Sevai at Thillai Vilagam. The neck has one kind of a curve, the hip a different curve and the leg another curve but all three are in a straight line, a truly unique posture.

Devotional Commitment of Bhattar

Kothandarama Bhattar was initiated into the agamas by the renowned Kizhayur Sowmya Narayanan Bhattar and Koneri Raja Puram Srinivasa Bhattar. He came into the temple as a young teenager in the 1980s and has been here for three decades. Earlier, his father had performed service at the temple for several decades. He has not performed a single samprokshanam or participated in a homam outside of the temple. Even when a wedding takes place inside the temple, he does not participate though there has been an opportunity to make money out of the event. His devotional commitment and attachment is only to Lord Rama and hence does not associate with anything other than service to the Lord. He also doubles up as the cook at the temple to present Thaligai every day to the Lord. Number of devotees do not make a difference to him for he performs aradhana to the Lord irrespective of the presence of devotees engaged in a one on one interaction with the Lord.

During the days of Kothandarama Bhattar’s childhood in the 1970s, there was a long agraharam on the South Street with at least 20 traditional families residing in big numbers. Today there are just three – One Bhattar Family, one Gurukal Family and a Purohit. Unmindful of the exodus of the traditionalists, Kothandarama Bhattar stuck to the Lord and has never left Thillai Vilagam for a Samprokshanam or a Homam in search of financial glory. As a hereditary archaka, he is not paid salary for the daily service. Over the last three decades, Thattu Kaasu, if any, has been the only source of income to him for his temple Kainkaryam.

Grand Panguni Brahmotsavam

Brahmotsavam is celebrated in a grand way at the temple with experienced priests from Divya Desams anchoring the decoration of the Lord. Staying here through the 11 days of the Utsaavam, Raman Bhattar from Nathan Koil has been conducting the Brahmotsavam festivities over the last many years while Kalyanarama Bhattar of Senkalipuram had managed the annual utsavam in the decades gone by. The Villagers from in and around Thillai Vilagam come together during the Brahmotsavam to take care of the entire expenses with each village managing a day’s Utsavam. The Brahmotsavam also sees the villagers organizing traditional events including Bommalattam, folk dances as well as debates on epics. The Vahana Procession starts every evening after 10pm and goes on till midnight.

On the 10^th day of the utsavam, Rama Pattabhibhisekam is performed with the Lord seen with a special crown. The Deer Vahana Procession on the 11^th day of the Brahmotsavam is a speciality at the temple.

Distinctive Features of Rama

The Moolavar idol of Kothandarama is believed to be at least a 1000years old. Rama is holding the bow in his left hand. On a close look at his hands, one is able to see the nerves, the ring and his sharp nails. One is also able to see the sharp distinctive fingers on each hand just like a human hand. On his right hand, Rama is seen holding the arrow that contains the writing ‘Rama Saram’, the only one of its kind in a Rama temple. These writings refer to his philosophy of life – Oru Sol (Rama would not go back on the word he has given), Oru Il (Only one wife – he would not look at another woman) and Oru Vil (The special bow).

Another interesting feature of the moolvar Rama is the distinctive marks. One is able to also see clearly the nerves and moles on the legs of Lord Rama. Also, one is able to see the knee cap on both the legs of the lord. On his left leg, one finds the Raksha bandhan tied by mother Kausalya when Rama was young to protect him from evil forces.

Anjaneya’s Dasa Posture

Anjaneya is seen in a Dasa Posture with his right hand close to his mouth in a whispering posture. Belief is that presenting curd rice to Anjaneya at this temple would liberate the devotee from problem associated with marriage and navagriha dosham.

In recent years, the devotee crowd has increased with around 25 devotees visiting the temple on Saturday to perform archanai. Aadi Amavasai and Thai Amavasai days are sacred at this temple. Couples who bathe in the tank West of the temple on either of these two days are believed to be blessed with children. Once a month, devotees, mostly those from nearby villages, perform Thirumanjanam on their birthdays/wedding days.

Hereditary Trustees

The Pancha Loka idols of the Thillai Vilagam Rama temple were found buried in the ground to the west of the temple in the early 19^th century by Velu Thevar. The temple in its current form was built subsequent to that by Velu Thevar, whose clan are now the hereditary trustees of the temple.

Chidambareswarar Temple

Just adjacent to the Kothandarama temple is the Chidambareswarar Umayambigai temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, where one also finds the idol of Nataraja. The two temples of Shiva and Rama are seen next to each other almost in the same complex with an entrance on the Northern side of the Rama temple into the Shiva temple similar to the Chidambaram Temple (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2008/05/chidambaram-thiruchitrakoodam.html). It is in this context that the place came to be referred to as ‘Thillai’ Vilagam. Renovation works have been pending for almost 25 years at the Shiva temple but is expected to begin early in 2020.

Pancha Rama Temples

Veera Kothandarama at Thillai Vilagam is similar in facial posture to the ones at Baalya Rama, Mudikondan (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/12/mudikondan-jawahar-bhattar.html), Hathambavur Rama at Sri Vanjiyam, Eri Kaatha Rama at Madurantakam ( http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2008/11/madurantakam-eri-kaatha-raamar.html) and Saligrama Rama at Punnai Nallur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/01/saligrama-kothandaramar-koil-punnai.html).

The temple is open from 830am-1230pm and 5pm-8pm Contact Kothandarama Bhattar @ 80568 56894.

How to reach

Thillai Vilagam is 30kms South of Mannaragudi Rajagopalaswamy Temple off the Tiruvarur / Thiruthuraipoondi Muthupet highway 19 kms East of Thiruthuraipoondi and 6kms West of Muthupet.Buses ply every 30minutes from Thiruthuraipoondi to Muthupet. One should get down at Gopala Samudram. Mini bus will take one to the temple (2kms). From Tiruvarur, cab to the temple and back will cost Rs. 1250. One can also reach the temple from Pattukottai (35kms) or Vedaranyam (40kms).

The temple where the Lord relieved Thirunavukarasar of his Stomach pain

Appar sung the first of the Thevaram Verses on Veerataaneswarar at this temple

His life is a lesson in unflinching devotion and unwavering belief in God
All the transformational episodes of his life are played out during the Appar Utsavam in Chitrai at this temple in a grand manner

Legendary Saivite Saint Poet Thirunavukarasar (referred to as Appar by his contemporary Thiru Gnana Sambandar) sang his very first Thevaram verse in front of Lord Veerataneswarar at Thiru Vathigai (historically known as Thiru ‘Athigai’) pleading before the Lord for relief from the unbearable stomach pain that he had been stuck with.

கூற்றாயினவாறுவிளக்ககிலீர்

கொடுமைபலசெய்தனநான்அறியேன்

ஏற்றாயடிகேஇரவும்பகலும்

பிரியாதுவணங்குவன்எப்பொழுதும்

தொற்றாதென்வயிற்றின்அகம்படியே

குடரோடுதுடக்கிமுடக்கியிட

அற்றேன்அடியேன்அதிகைக்கெடில

வீரட்டானத்துறைஅம்மானே– Appar's First Thevaram Song

In his first verse, he accepts that he has done many wrongs in life but promises to perform lifelong selfless service night and day till the very end if he was to be relieved from the 'Soolai' pain that he was encountering then. And as a testimony to keeping one’s word with the Lord that serves as a devotional lesson to everyone even today, almost 1500 years later, he kept his word right till the end sweeping and cleaning the garbage at the Agnipureeswarar temple at Thiru Pugalur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/11/thiru-pugalur-agneeswarar-temple.html), where he attained Mukthi.

By the time he had sung his 10^th verse, he is a transformed Saivite and begins performing cleaning service at the Veerataneswarar Temple in Thiru Vathigai.

The Tragic Early years

Born as Marul Neekiyar (the one who dispels darkness) in Thirumavur about 10kms West of Thiru Vathigai on the Panruti – Thiru Navalur (birth place of Sundarar) highway, Thirunavukarasar encountered tragedy in the early phase of his life. The wedding of his elder sister Thilagavathiyar, who was to mentor him all through his life, was postponed when the bridegroom, Kalipagayanar, a Pallava Chieftain from Kanchipuram had to go to war against the marauding forces from the West. Unable to bear the indefinite postponement, his father died and much to his shock, his mother jumped into the pyre. More tragedy was to follow. When she heard the news that her bridegroom was killed in the war, Thilgavathiyar too wanted to follow in her mother’s footsteps but Marul Neekiyaar pleaded with her to mentor him and play the role of both his mother and father. And thus she began to live a life for him.

Conversion to Jainism

Unfortunately, it was the period of Jainism gaining strangle hold and Marul Neekiyar was swayed by their philosophy and followed in their footsteps much to the disappointment of his sister who had sacrificed her life for him. For years, taking the name of Dharmasena, he remained rooted to Jainism and travelled round the country going on to become one of their leaders while Thilagavathiyar, frustrated and embarrassed at this negative turn of events, moved from Thiruvamur to Thiru Vathigai. It was here at the Veerataneswarar temple that she invoked the blessings of the Lord each day of her life to bring her brother Marul Neekiyaar back on to the Saivite path. Finally, she managed to please the Lord with the sincerity of her prayers and He promised to make her brother a legendary name in Saivism.

Marul Neekiyaar becomes Thirunavukarasar

Stuck with unbearable stomach pain and unable to find relief in the solutions provided by the Jains and with nothing working, he finally turned to his sister for solution and made his way back to Thiru Vathigai. Early into the morning, an devotionally excited Thilagavathi cleans the temple entrance and draws a beautiful white kolam welcoming his brother and seeking his transformation into Saivism.

As he makes his way into the temple through the towering Raja Gopuram at the Eastern Entrance, he is devotionally stuck with the cleanliness and Kolam drawn by his caring sister. After bathing in the Soolai Theertham on the Southern side and after she applied the sacred white ash on his forehead, he presented himself, along with Thilgavathy, in front of Lord Veerataneswarar and poured his first ever verse cringing from Stomach pain and asking for relief. Through the verses, he promises to dedicate the rest of his life to selfless service of Lord Shiva.

As another lesson to devotees, he does not feel embarrassed to speak the truth in front of the Lord and accepts the mistakes he has made in the past but he wants to be given an opportunity to redeem himself and offer in service to the Lord.

சலம்பூவொடுதூபம்மறந்தறியேன்

தமிழோடிசைபாடல்மறந்தறியேன்

நலந்தீங்கிலும்உன்னைமறந்தறியேன்

உன்நாமம்என்நாவில்மறந்தறியேன்

உலந்தார்தலையிற்பலிகொண்டுழல்வாய்

உடலில்ஒருசூலைதவிர்த்தருளாய்

அளந்தேன்அடியேன்அதிகைக்கெடில

வீரட்டானத்துறைஅம்மானே

The sincerity in the devotional verses pleased the Lord and by the time he finished his verses, the stomach pain had vanished. And he was called out by the Lord as Thirunavukarasa, the one with the golden devotional voice.

From that day, he became completely dedicated to Lord Shiva and began performing physical cleaning service and singing praise out of happiness that came of this service at temples. The legendary episode of the ‘to be’ Saivite Saint Poet Thirunavukarasar (Appar) surrendering himself before Lord Veerataneswarar asking for relief from the unbearable stomach pain, applying the sacred ash on his forehead, singing the first verse and being immediately blessed by the Lord is re enacted at this temple on the first day of the ‘Appar’ Avathara Utsavam in Chitrai that culminates in his Mukthi on Sathayam.

The transformation story played out on Day 1 of Appar Utsavam

On the morning of the 1^st day of the Appar Utsavam in Chitrai, Thirunavukarasar dressed in a white dress, the only day in the year he is so dressed, comes to the Thiruneeratran Mandapam, where he is joined by sister Thilagavathiyar. The Shivachariar presents Thirupalli Yezhuchi verses at the Mandapam, the very same location where he sported the sacred white ash on his forehead for the first time. The Othuvar, specially brought in for this day, render the first Thevaram verse of Thirunavukarasar. This entire episode of Marul Neekiyar transforming into Thirunavukarasar is played out at this mandapam on that morning.

In memory of his transformation from Jainism back to Saivism, there is a historical Jain Idol at the Eastern entrance of the temple.

Jains threaten, Appar unshaken with unflinching devotion

Angered at this sudden transformation and unable to bear his selfless service at Saivite temples, the Jains tried to disrupt his services and tortured him repeatedly in many different ways, each of which is enacted during the 10 day Utsavam in Chitrai. On the 2^nd day of the utsavam, the episode of Appar made to sit upon a huge flame is enacted.

In this hour of despair, he shows unshakable belief in Veerataneswarar. He sings another memorable devotional verse saying that with the Lord having saved him from the life threatening stomach pain, he fears nothing else in life and no flame can consume him.

And much to their shock and displeasure, the flames actually stay cool on him, reminding one of the episode from the Ramayana when the fire set on Hanuman actually gave him a chilly feeling.

They later send the King’s elephant to kill him but that too backfired on them for the elephant trampled on the Mahout and returned to the Jains. All of these are played out on the 2^nd day of the Utsavam.

The name Cuddalore - Thrown into the Sea

On the third day of the Chitrai Appar Utsavam, yet another grave torture of him being thrown into the Sea, East of Thiru Vathigai is enacted. This is the day of the Theppotsavam. It is the only day in the year that Appar is seen in a Silver Kavacham.

Unmindful of the threat of sinking in the sea, he goes with folded hands saying that there is no fear to one who believes in God. And much to the shock of the Jains, he is back alive. It is in memory of him coming out of the Sea unscathed, that the place came to be called ‘Cuddalore’.

Nothing from the King’s forces could unnerve him. The story goes that the Pallava King fell for the devotion of Thirunavukarasar and drove back the Jains and became a follower of Appar’s devotional verses.

His trip to Pennadam

He began his travel singing verses in praise of the Lord and went to the Pralayakareswarar Pennagadam (now Pennadam about 70kms West of Thiru Vathigai) where he inscribed his hands with the Trishul and Sacred Ash. This episode of his trip to Pennadam is played out on the fourth day of the Utsavam.

Meeting with Gnana Sambandar and The Name ‘Appar’

As he moved on, he met Thiru Gnana Sambandar in Sirkazhi, where his contemporary called him out as ‘Appa’. And the name stuck with Thirunavukarasar coming to be referred as Appar.

Thingalur

When he came to Thingalur, 2kms East of Thiruvayaru on the Northern Banks of Cauvery, he encountered something that he had not witnessed anywhere else. At every nook and corner of this Chandran Sthalam, he found references to his name. The place where ‘Butter Milk’ was handed out was called Thirunavukarasar Butter Milk Pandal and every other place was attributed to Thirunavukarasar. It was there that he found a great follower of his, Appoothi Adigal, who had named everything and everyone, including his two sons after Thirunavukarasarar. He was so committed to serving Appar that even when the snake had bit his elder son Appothi Adigal continued to serve the Saint Poet. Appar called for the son to be brought into the house and brought him back to life through the blessings of the Lord.

This entire episode that played out in Thingalur is presented on the 5^th day of the Appar Utsavam with Appar going out on a procession in the morning to Thilagavathi Nandavanam opposite the temple complex. The devotees are presented with Butter Milk through the day. On his way back, the devotionally dramatic episode of the snake bite and Appoothi Adigal’s son regaining his life is presented in front of the temple.

Presents Songs and gets food for the Lord’s devotees

As he moves along to Thiruveezhi Mizhalai, he finds the Lord’s devotees in dire straits, struggling to meet even their daily needs. Unhappy on seeing their plight, he invokes the blessings of the Lord through a set of verses. Much to their delight, the Lord shells out in Gold ensuring that everyone is fed in full.

This is played out on day 7 of the Utsavam along with the episode of the Lord shutting the door on Thiru Gnana Sambandar after his very first song while opening the door after Appar’s songs.

Continuing his cleaning service, he moves to Thiru Pazhayaarai where the Jains strike again hiding the idol of the Lord. Once more, his unflinching devotion to Lord Shiva came through as the Lord came out of his hiding on hearing the devotional voice of Appar.

On the final day of the Utsavam, the episode of Appar receiving Kailaya darshan is presented. He was stuck with old age and could no more walk up the Himalayas and crawled up like a kid and then even used his chest to push himself up the steep mountain. So pleased was the Lord with his devotion that he asked him to dip himself in the nearby Theertham and as he came out he had been ‘shipped’ to Thiruvayaru (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2014/11/thiruvaiyaru-pancha-natheeswarar-temple.html) from where he had Kailaya Darshan. Finally, just after midnight on Chitrai Sathayam, Appar attaining Mukthi at Thiru Pugalur is played out in a grand manner at the temple.

AshtaVeera Sthaanam

Thiru Vathigai is one of the Ashta Veerasthana Sthalams where Lord Shiva killed Asuras after a battle with bow and arrow. Thiru Kurukkai (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/09/thiru-kurukkai-verateswarar-temple_13.html) and Thiru Kandiyur (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/09/kandiyur-brahmma-sira-kadeeswarar.html) are two among the Ashat Veeratanam temples.

Three asuras had gained the boon of invincibility anbd continuously attacked the rishis and prevented their penance. Lord Veeratesawarar came on a chariot with Chandran and Suryan as the wheels and with Brahmma as the Charioteer to kill the asuras. It was Sara Narayana Perumal, west of this temple, who handed the bow and the arrow to Veerateswarar for him to kill the three asuras in smiling posture. Two asuras attained Mukthi and serve as Dwara Palakas at this temple. This episode of Tripura Samhara is played out on Vaikasi Swathi on the 9^th day of the Brahmotsavam with Tripura Sundara Murthy providing darshan atop the Chariot similar to the way he killed the evil forces from atop the chariot after Sara Narayana Perumal (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/07/thiru-vathigai-sara-narayanan.html) comes and presents his bow and arrow. This is the only day in the year this Utsava Idol comes out of the temple on a procession.

In Chitrai, Tripura Samhara Murthy provides darshan at the Vasantha Mandapam as part of the Vasanthotsavam inside the temple.

This is one of the Thevaram Sthalams that historically had Lord and Ambal providing Kalyana Kolam darshan to Sage Agastya, the others being Kanchipuram and Vedaranyam. In memory of this historical event, both of them are seen in a grand Kalyana Kolam Posture behind the beautifully sculpted Moolavar Lingam.

Episodes relating to all Ashta Veerata Sthalams are sculpted on the outside walls of the prakara, giving devotees an insight into the episodes relating to each of the Veeratana Sthalams.

The Vimanam atop the Moolavar Sannidhi is a delight to architectural experts with its shadow not falling on the ground. It is believed that Raja Raja Chozhan studied this Vimanam before beginning construction of Brihadeeswarar temple in Thanjavur and the one in Gangai Konda Cholapuram.

The temple is open from 6am to 12noon and from 4pm to 9pm. Contact Kalyan Kumar Gurukal @ 94863 90376 / Srinivasa Gurukal @ 94427 80111.

The Head Priest at the Avathara Sthalam of Natha Muni and Alavanthar joined the Veera Narayana Perumal temple at a salary of Rs. 75 per month and has served with unflinching devotion for over two decades keeping the temple alive and vibrant

Annan Srinivasan Bhattar has been the head priest at Kattu Mannar Koil the Avathara Sthalam of Natha Muni for over two decades now having joined the temple in the late 1990s. As a young boy, he learnt the Pancharatra Agamas and was certified by the revered Kannan Bhattar of Therazhundur. As has been the case with many historical temples in remote locations, it has been a challenging two decades for him. His grandfather Narayanan Bhattachar had performed service at the temple till 1965. His father was a Maniyakaarar at the temple. As a young school boy, he performed service at the temple through the 1980s that included carrying the Ghee torch during processions, holding the Umbrella atop the Lord and carrying the Lord on his shoulders. As described in Kulasekara Azhvaar’s Perumal Thirumozhi, the young Annan Srinivasan would hold on to the pillars watching the Veera Narayana Perumal, Natha Muni and his grandson Alavanthar during his entire school days.

Joins at Rs. 75 per month

In the early 80s, there were over 20 families in the agraharam. But by the time he was into his mid teens, most of them had left this legendary Vaishnavite location seeking greener pastures in cities. And he was in a confused state. He too did contemplate to leave following in the foot step of the seniors in this temple town. But God decided otherwise and held on to him at Kattu Mannar Koil. His uncle Sampath Bhattar had been performing service in the Sannidhi in the 80s and early 90s. In the mid 1990s, when he became unwell, Annan Srinivasan Bhattar took over and joined the temple as the Priest at the age of 17 in 1996-97. There were severe challenges when he began not the least the lack of devotee crowd and the financial returns. He joined at a salary of just Rs. 75 per month.

10 hour service each day of the year at Rs. 3000

He stuck to the agamas and followed that diligently. He was clear that he would not introduce any new procedural creations just to attract crowd as has happened with many other temples in the last two decades. Despite financial challenges, he has stuck on for over decades. His salary increased to Rs. 400 per month after a decade!!! And now after two decades, he is paid Rs. 3000 per month having to take care of the daily poojas at all the sannidhis as the only priest. His elder brother who works at the temple office supports him as and when required.

His devotional rendition of archanai is a special feature at this temple and it is unlikely that any devotee who has visited this temple would not have been moved by his service to the Lord and the acharyas.

During utsavams such as the one going on currently (Adyayana Utsavam), his daily service over 20 days is also physically challenging having to be at the temple just after 430am for the Margazhi sevai followed later in the day by the Pagal Pathu Utsvam. During such days, his daily service at the temple extends to well over 12 hours performing aradhanam and alankaram all alone. Rarely do they get substitutes in such remote locations. In addition to the financial challenges, he has also had to encounter health issues given the long working hours at the temple. But it is something he is devotionally committed to engage in for the rest of his life for how many would get serve at a temple that was responsible for the recovery of Nalayira Divya Prabhandham.

It was Natha Muni who was responsible for bringing back the Naalayira Divya Prabandham that had been previously lost to the world. Nathamuni, who mastered himself in Vedas at a young age, was very attached to Veera Narayana Perumal at Kattu Mannar Koil and spent most of his time performing daily poojas for the Lord here. One day, while he was performing his daily poojas, he heard a set of devotees who had come here from Thiru Narayanapuram in Melkote chanting the Aaravamuthey song (Nam Azhvaar’s Tiruvoimozhi verse praising the Lord of Kumbakonam).These devotees ended with the words ‘these 10 out of the 1000’. Nathamuni was drawn to these songs and asked them to sing the rest of the 990 verses. However, they knew only these 10 songs. A restless Nathamuni went to Kumbakonam, where Lord Aaravamudhan asked him to go to Thiru Kurugur where he secured the entire 4000 songs- Naalaayira Divya Prabandham and brought it back to Kattu Mannar Koil from where he began spreading the messages from these sacred verses.

Along with his nephews, Keezhaiyagath Azhvaar and Melaiagath Azhvaar (the Araiyars are descendents of these two), Nathamuni gave the Naalayira Divya Prabandham a musical (creating Raagam and Thaalam) and dance form and presenting it in a form that the world could experience and enjoy . To him goes the credit of creating the Araiyar Sevai, a visual song and dance enactment of the ‘Paasurams’ through Abhinayam. He went to Srirangam and performed the Araiyar Sevai, of the Thiruvaai Mozhi verses, with his two Nephews, and once again started the Adhyayana Utsavam at Srirangam which had been discontinued after the time of Thirumangai Azhvaar.

Nathamuni’s grandson Alavanthar was born in Kattu Mannar Koil and he travelled often to Srirangam to spread the dharmic messages of Vaishnavism. It was he who nominated Ramanuja as the ’to be’ acharya after his death. Natha Muni and Alavanthar Avathara Utsavams are celebrated in a grand way at Kattu Mannar Koil.

Despite the salary not being financially lucrative, Annan Srinivasan Bhattar feels blessed to have been born at this Avathara Sthalam of two great acharyas and to be serving the Lord every day of his life. It is the commitment of such lonely priests who stuck through with the God through dark days that has kept ancient temples such as this alive and vibrant for the devotees to now enjoy.

The temple is open from 730am-12noon and 430pm-9pm Contact Annan Srinivasan Bhattar @ 99522 76110

Indian Railways launches Modern AC Executive Lounge on Platform 1 at the Madurai Junction

The Lounge has already become a big hit with passengers in the initial phase of its launch

Over the last 5 years or so, train travellers have witnessed a dramatic and a never been seen improvement in the Indian Railways, especially in terms of convenience and amenities at the Tier 2 and Tier 3 Railway Stations in the country. In yet another public infrastructure development initiative, the Indian Railways has set up a best in class AC Executive Lounge on Platform 1 at the Madurai Junction. This is in line with and comparable to those available at the best airports in India.

Facilities include bathing (including shower), hi speed internet browsing, breakfast and dinner, favourite TV Channels, business center, free wi-fi and a travel desk. There is a special buffet available over breakfast, lunch and dinner. Al-a-carte items are also available round the clock. The travel desk provides assistance to sightseeing trips around Madurai and offers all kinds of luxury vehicles.

The AC executive lounge has already become a big hit with the passengers and they have lapped it up with both hands. There are at least a dozen trains that run towards Chennai and Bangalore during the peak hours in the evening. With the high quality food available on platform 1, no more would passengers need to go away looking for the right restaurant for their dinner. This AC executive lounge is ideal for both the morning entrants into Madurai, those that have an official meeting later in the morning and for those to relax for an hour or two before their departure in the night from Madurai Junction. Facilities like top quality lunch also makes it ideal for those who reach Madurai just after noon by the recently introduced Tejas Express.

Madurai Junction was also one of the first in the Southern Railway to introduce an AC waiting lounge over a decade ago (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/04/madurai-junction-retiring-rooms.html).

The station also easily ranks among the top in terms of cleanliness of platforms and the passenger amenities. The Modi led Government has also upgraded the infrastructure in many of the railway stations across the country.

Trichy Junction(https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2008/09/new-ac-lounge-at-tiruchirapalli.html) and Coimbatore Junction (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/07/coimbatore-junction-retiring-rooms.html) among many other stations in the Southern Railway have upgraded the passenger amenities manifold in recent times.

No light at the end of the TN Cricketing Highway

Flat Unconducive wickets in the first division league, Too much glamour around IPL and TNPL, Lack of focus at the grass roots level and the continuing aggressive corporate warfare have contributed to a downfall in TN cricket

Business minded cricket academies unfairly pushing their players into league and age group cricket has also damaged cricket in the city
In 1978, TN bowled out AP for 29 and routed them - Four Decades later, Andhra is at the top of the Ranji league while TN is at the bottom

TNCA website

Tamil Nadu has had one of the most disastrous starts to a Ranji Season with the team firmly rooted to the bottom of the table after 5 games, three of them on home soil. And really this comes as no surprise to those that have followed TN cricket this decade. It has been a long time coming, now. It has actually been a surprise that it has taken this long to hit the bottom. It has been a decade of IPL and TNPL, the glorification of these formats has led to a loss of focus on the longer version. No great infrastructure development, big success of the IPL team and the initial hype around the TNPL have all taken the focus away from the crying need to strengthen the foundation and improving cricket at the grass roots. Almost all the cricket in the first division league in Madras are on flat wickets, except when the top teams play the bottom ones, when they go for green tops or big turners. TN U16 and U19 teams have been knocked out this year in the league phase and they have not really provided the feeder service for the Ranji team. There are no players U19 players from TN in the National squad.

TNCA League Cricket in the 2000s

In well over a decade of captaining lower division league teams in Madras, I got a sense of where cricket was headed in Tamil Nadu. The last of this was a privately run league team and I managed almost all of the expenses including taking care of the travel expenses of some of the teenaged players.

Cricket turned into a huge business for the ex-cricketers. They saw an opportunity to mint money from upcoming cricketers. As the years progressed, more and more cricket academies including some credible former cricketers approached me with interesting ‘deals’. They offered to take care of the entire expenses for the year (cricket kit, gear, food, water, balls, travel expenses etc) in exchange for opportunities for their wards in the league season. More opportunities in the league meant more money into the academy from the wards. The academies are increasingly under pressure from the parents to get their students into various teams – the first step in that process being an entry into lower division league cricket followed by inclusion in the city teams of U13 and other age group categories. And the parents are willing to pay a price for this, for they see this as an important phase in the child’s cricketing career. Cricket is no more just a sport that it was (in TN) 3-4 decades ago. It is a business. It is a lucrative career.There is a lot of money at stake.

Academies’ and one on one coaching influence on cricket

Roll on, well over a decade later, in a lower division match that I umpired in 2018, a captain known to me for three decades kept going back to a young 15 year old fast bowler despite him being thrashed all over the park. Reason – the bowler was a ward at his one–one academy in Mylapore and there was a need to promote him at all levels, even if it meant being unfair to other bowlers in the team. Wickets in the league would help the boy in the U16 selection. While other bowlers that day went at 2 or 3 runs an over, this fast bowler bowled his full quota of 15overs giving away 90runs. He did pick up 4wickets. And with statistics playing a vital role, it would not matter that the match was lost because of over bowling the most expensive bowler of the day but those 4 wickets would up add to the tally for the year and improve his chances of a place in the state squad in the age group category At the end of the innings I overheard an innocent question from a young player to his father “Do I need to take one on one coaching to be given bowling in a match”. The father had no answer to the question.

This is not a one off incident anymore. Academies actively push their wards at all levels in cricket. Individual coaches try to push their students through the selectors. Parents are seen at the grounds all the time talking to the selectors.

The Selectors

With the Lodha Committee making a certain number of Ranji matches as a pre requisite to the choice of a state selector, opportunities have quite unexpectedly fallen on those who have not tracked or been associated with TN cricket for decades. While those with Ranji experience from the decades gone by could don the role as sincerely and in as committed a way as possible, the point remains that many of them have not really watched enough of cricket in TN for decades. Will it be fair on the players to have a state selector not watching too many of the matches that they play before the selection.Even the Senior State Selectors ( Ranji Trophy) haven’t really watched most of the matches in recent years and that hasn't instilled confidence in the minds of first division players. Is it not important to watch the players before taking a call especially when many factors other than just runs and wickets can be relevant to a junior player’s selection – the attitude of a player, the circumstance under which he scored runs and took wickets, the contribution to a winning cause and so on, which mere statistics may not reveal.

Conflict of interest – Chairman of selection committee as a Match Referree

Through this decade, Chairman of the TN State Selection Committee also donned the role of Match Referee. These roles come with power, fame and name in addition to a lot of money that’s on offer (for match referees). While there was a TN Ranji match going on in one city, the chairman of the State Selectors was a match referee in another Ranji match several 100s of kms away.

It was power and money at play at the same time. While the Chairmanship offered power and name, the role of the match referee brought in money that was really lucrative, something that would have been difficult for anyone to ignore, even if it meant a conflicting role. There was really no accountability. Should a chairman of selectors be watching his state team play or be at another ground as a match referee? These questions never seem to have been raised. Also during the decade gone by, there seemed to have been no vision chalked out in terms of where they (the selection committee) wanted to take TN cricket. For example, this decade a chairman of the Sr. State Selection committee refused to talk to the media ( including to this writer) on the pretext that he had been asked by the TNCA to not talk about TN cricketing/ selection matters to the outside public and to cricket writers. With so much at stake and a huge fan following, could the chairman of a senior state selection committee remain silent for 5 years not airing his views on the choice of the team and on the direction of TN cricket and the performance of the team. But that is what happened. The Chairman simply followed ‘instructions’ of the TNCA and did not speak up once during his period as the chairman of the Sr. State Selection Committee. During the decade, one simply did not get a sense of the long term vision for the state team. And we are now seeing the impact of those years of ignored vision with the results in Ranji cricket

Credible Coaches

The choice of coaches too seem to have been baffling this decade. In one year, out another. The relationship between the top players and the coach has not been at its best through most of the decade. Very little seems to have been done on this front. No one in the cricketing circles in TN has quite understood the process of the choice of coaches and their accountability. For the huge amount of fee paid to them annually, there really seems to be very little accountability.

Flat Wickets at all levels

If you look at the results of TN teams in recent years, you will find that the team has performed much better in shorter formats than the longer version, a clear indication of flat wickets in the city. Spinners who are asked to not give away runs in league cricket has been the order of the day. Hence they seem to be better at doing a containing job than in the art of wicket taking. As is well known, it is the bowlers with the wickets that win you matches in the longer format. TN has just not developed fast bowlers or spinners with the wicket taking ability.

In the decades gone by, youngsters coming up the ranks played on different kinds of surfaces - matting wickets even in first division league, fast green tops against the best of fast bowlers in the state and many times a square turner. This helped a great deal during the foundation stage of their career.

However, in recent times, top order players after amassing runs in the local league and age group tournaments on flat wickets have often been caught out on green tops when they play State matches in another region. In the battle for the Palayampatti shield, the top corporates have often put out 'flat' wickets playing it safe. Hence the top Ranji cricketers playing against each other in domestic first division league are not up against challenging conditions. Very rarely in recent years, has one witnessed a top contest between bat and ball among the top teams in the first division.

It has been years since TN has produced a top class fast bowler for the long format. Aswin Crist and T Natarajan have been the only real fast bowlers in recent years. There is a dearth of fast bowlers who could win Ranji matches for you, especially in away conditions. This year, Natarajan has been the top wicket taker for TN after 5 matches and yet not once has he been provided with favourable wickets to suit his bowling in our home matches. Spinners for a large part have been containing bowlers more suited to the shorter formats.

Even at the U16, U19 and U23 levels, it is the same story. Tons of runs in local matches on flat batting tracks and found out against good fast bowlers and on turning tracks in state matches has meant that TN has crashed out in all age group tournaments in the longer format.

Non Stop Cricket in Peak Summer
This year in peak summer, first division cricketers played non stop cricket through an entire month to finish the schedule of 2019-20 season. And in no time, shortly after, the new 20-21 season had begun. The three day once prestigious long format Buchi Babu Tournament has been dispensed with and made way for the T20 TNPL. Buchi Babu Tourney had for long been the stepping stone for budding youngsters wanting to play for the state.

R Ashwin - The Only real Long Format Bowler from TN this decade
This decade, only R Ashwin has emerged as a top quality international bowler in tests from the State. There have been no other bowlers, spinner or fast bowler even on the fringe from Tamil Nadu .Of course, he came through a phase when wickets were better and gave bowlers something to work on.

From his twitter page

As years have passed and with amount of cricket that has been played, the quality of wickets has dropped drastically in the city. No corporate in the city has a second ground of their own. While the focus has been on investment in players and the exorbitant salaries paid to teenaged cricketers these days, the corporates have missed out on improving the cricketing infrastructure in the city so much so that the top batsmen eyeing the next level do not have high quality fast paced/ big turning tracks to bat on, even in the nets.

The Downfall of TN cricket

Academies’ influence in age group selection right from U13, the emerging role of parents in selection matters, the decades long corporate conflicts and their influence in selection, the glamour of IPL and TNPL and the lack of infra development have all contributed to the downfall of TN cricket. Look at the scenario this year – International cricketers Abhinav, Vijay, Dinesh Karthik, Vijay Shankar, R Ashwin were all part of the TN playing XI for the first match of the Ranji season. And suddenly for the next couple of matches all of them were away for a variety of reasons – personal commitments to injuries to ‘rested’. A star studded line up gave way to many debutants. And suddenly you found 5 new players coming into the playing XI right after the first match of the new season, quite a few not really suited to the longer version of the game. For a state match that included international star R Ashwin, TN played 4-5 spinners in the XI this season!!! Just last week, a U23 state player was informed of his omission through the following text message ‘You are removed for the next match’ leaving him in tears. His replacement in the team was someone who had scored less than one third of the runs of the axed player.The selection process leaves a lot to be desired

It remains no surprise that TN is languishing at the penultimate position in the Ranji Table after 5 matches and has been knocked out of age group tournaments. For long, there has been no incentive to play for the team. A player sacrificing his wicket for the team’s cause is not rewarded in TN cricket and hence you find each playing for his own self and for his own safety in the team. In a story I had written earlier on a match in Coimbatore, AP was bundled out for 29 by TN 4 decades ago after an incisive spell by Bharath Kumar at the Forest College ground (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/03/coimbatore-cricket-grounds.html). Cricketing life has come a full circle. Today, AP tops the Ranji table while TN is down at the bottom. It is unlikely that there will be a turnaround anytime in the near future unless the coaches, selectors, the corporates and administrators at all levels come together as a group and create a conducive atmosphere for a fair battle between bat and ball, a meritorious selection policy and an incentive for team play.

The Solution
Play top first division league matches on green tops / turners
Provide green tops and square turners at the nets for first division / State players
Announce a 5 year vision for the State Ranji squad - Build a team for the long term
Choose Coaches and Selectors with credibility and long term commitment
Ensure State Selectors watch all first division matches
Ensure age group Selectors watch school matches and league matches
Bring transparency into the selection process
Get the hard hitting views of credible and vocal cricketers on the improvement of state cricket and go about implementing their ideas

Scorching Ranji Century in his 100^th match

Was pitched against the Best of bowlers in the Worst of Conditions in England
A case of what might have been

From his Twitter Page

Way back in 2007, this (current one) is not a story I would have visualised to write at the beginning of 2020 on Abhinav Mukund. One of my first cricket stories was on the then 17 year old Abhinav Mukund, on the brink of making his Ranji debut (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2007/09/cricket-pick-of-month-abhinav-mukund.html). He was all set for a top notch long test career for India as he broke domestic cricketing records sooner than most batsmen on the circuit.He has also been the TN player I have tracked and followed the most during this decade as well as the one on whom I have written the most. However, over a dozen years after that story, his has been a case of what might have been.

This afternoon he scored a scorching century against Railways on the occasion of his 100^th Ranji match with his fastest almost run a ball Ranji ton as he batted in an unusually aggressive style (his mentor from his school days S Sharath too got a century in his 100th Ranji match)

Great Start to his domestic cricketing career

By the time he was out of school, he had already scored more runs than any TN school boy in the history of TN cricket. He scored runs every time he went to bat - for his school, in age group cricket and in inter state age group matches. His basics seemed to be strong, coached day in day out by his cricketer father TS Mukund from the time he was five years old. One just could not take the bat out of his hands or the runs from the score sheet every time he went out to bat.

Former South Zone cricketer R Madhavan, a Southpaw himself, was the chairman of TN Selectors (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2007/09/interview-with-r-madhavan-tn-selector.html) and he was the one who inducted the teenaged Abhinav into a strong TN Ranji squad. At that time, well over a dozen years ago, I had marked Abhinav as one who would serve India as a long standing opener for he had the inclination to bat long and his domestic success for his age was as good as anyone else's. Had that story come true, it is unlikely I would be writing this century of Ranji matches story on Abhinav, for he should have been close to that mark in Test Cricket.

The IPL Distraction

Unfortunately, a variety of factors played against Abhinav at the most opportune phases in his career. Soon after his Ranji debut came an unwelcome distraction in the form of IPL that has been a stepping stone for many cricketers in India including his Ranji team mate (in today's match) R. Ashwin. But Abhinav was not made for IPL or T20 cricket. He sat alongside Virat Kohli on the flight to Singapore for the U19 World Cup over a decade ago. The early success of Virat in the shorter form of the game prompted Abhinav to challenge himself in that form. In those very early days in his cricketing career, his mind moved away towards showcasing himself as a successful cricketer in the shorter form as well including in the T20 version. It probably was one of the biggest mistakes he had made in his career.

From his Twitter Page

I remember that day in the terrace at Chepauk when I pleaded with his father coach TS Mukund to get his interest away from T20 but it was not to be. His father- coach remarked that day that Abhinav was determined to succeed in the shorter format and that his son believed that he had it in him to make it big in T20. Unfortunately, he did not and could not. Even though he was included in the CSK squad in those early years, chances weren’t forthcoming in that strong team.

Debut on a Green Top in the West Indies
He continued to amass runs in Ranji cricket that soon earned him a test debut in mid 2011 when he was not yet 22. As destiny would have it, Abhinav’s debut as well as his subsequent full series came overseas in what probably was India’s toughest of the decade. While West Indies did not have a potent attack like in the past, Abhinav’s debut in the West Indies (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2011/05/abhinav-mukund-in-indian-test-squad-to.html?m=0) came on bouncy seaming conditions that any debutant would have found challenging.

The toughest series of the decade

His next series in England came in almost unplayable conditions against the best bowlers in the world at that time – Anderson and Harmison were all over India in swinging conditions that were completely one sided and favourable to the bowlers. In one of the toughest conditions for an opener for a long time, Abhinav impressed with the bat with a half century that even had Sunil Gavaskar commending his style of play in that series. But the heavy defeat took a toll on the team and Abhinav unfortunately has not had too many chances since.

Out in the last over of the day

On the come back path, almost 4 years after the English whitewash, Abhinav made his way back into the test team on the back of continued domestic success. It looked like the man was still determined to make it big in Test cricket as he looked assured in that innings against Sri Lanka batting alongside his U19 world cup captain Virat Kohli. However, here again, destiny played against him and rather unfortunately for him, after almost having seen out two sessions without a hiccup, he got out in the last over of the day for 82. Had he seen through that over, he may well have gone on to a big hundred the next morning and the selectors may have been in a quandary over dropping a centurion. That remains his last test innings to-date.

For a man with close to 10000 runs in first class cricket, destiny played itself against Abhinav at the most crucial time in his career as he was pitched against the best bowlers in the world in the worst batting conditions. It is unlikely that any overseas opener would have succeeded in those conditions and against the rampant duo of Anderson and Harmison.

Had he debuted in India on more favourable pitches for openers, it may have been a completely different story for Abhinav. With his talent, the high concentration levels and the strong coaching foundation given by his father, he may have well amassed thousands of runs for India as a long standing opener of the decade. At important moments in his career, his Ranji and International team mate, R Ashwin had the rub of the green bowling on turning tracks in India helping build his confidence. For Abhinav, it was not to be.

On the domestic front though, there has been no one close to Abhinav this decade on the batting front. He broke most domestic batting records early on in his career, strolling to 3000, 4000 and 5000 runs on the domestic circuit before he touched 25. Early on, he made big tons and has been the rock of the TN batting through the decade. As the years passed by, he went past the records of all the batting legends of TN cricket and all this while he was still very young.

At 30, he may still have many years of domestic cricket ahead of him. If he keeps his motivation going, it is likely that Abhinav will in the coming years break all domestic batting records but for me all those years ago he was meant to break Test records, such was his penchant for scoring runs in the longer format of the game. And yet, like with so many of the TN batsmen in the era gone by, his has thus far been a case of what might have been.

Congrats Abhinav on the big milestone and the century on this momentous day.

From a hesitant archaka to the Chief Priest of the Ranganathasamy Temple in Srirangam, it’s been a devotionally eventful journey for Murali Bhattar

'No Hunger - No Money ' - Financial Insecurity loomed large in the lives of the archakas not so long ago at the Srirangam Temple

As he was completing his education in the 1960s and 70s, the message from his father and other family members was very clear. The situation at the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam, as with most other temples at that time, had turned grim and his near ones wanted him to move into service that was away from the temple. This was the case in most Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu. But destiny decided otherwise and Murali Bhattar came into temple service in quite unexpected circumstances. His elder brother was performing service at the temple but with the situation being financially challenging, he, much against his father’s wishes, decided to move to the US becoming the first priest of Srirangam to make his way to a US temple (he continues to serve at the US temple).

This quite unexpectedly paved the way for the young Murali, who at that time was into menial jobs in Trichy. His father directed him to serve Lord Ranganatha for the rest of his life and thus began his service at the temple that has now lasted close to four decades that has also taken him to the top post among the archakas.

The 1950s scenario

His father joined the temple in the 1940s at the age of 15 and served for over five decades. It had been a very challenging period for the family in the 1950s and 60s. For a temple that is now overflowing with vastrams, the situation back then was quite grim. As a young boy, Murali Bhattar remembers the period at the Ranganayaki Thayar Sannidhi “The saree of Thayar was repeatedly scratched by cockroaches. There was no replacement saree available and Thayar would remain draped in the same ‘torn’ saree for long period of time before the next saree was presented by a devotee.”

Back home, his father would bring rice late in the evening after his service at the temple. The entire family would eat this the next morning. Through his entire childhood, ‘pazhaya saatham’ was the only food that he consumed. Since his father was popular at the temple, many kainkaryapakas came to his house everyday for a chat. While the outside view was that the family was reasonably well off amongst the Kainkaryapakas, the reality was otherwise. His mother would struggle to make coffee for all and somehow managed to keep it going each day. 7 of them in the family slept under a single fan every night.

Vedic and Agama Initiation

As a young boy in the 1960s, Murali Bhattar was initiated into Shukla Yajur Veda at the Sringeri Patshala, near Amma Mandapam. He was also initiated into stotras at the Jayamani Patshala in Srirangam. Seniors at the Ranganathaswamy temple such as Raghava Bhattar and Krishna Bhattar along with his father Rangaraja Bhattar trained him on the Agamas. He joined the temple in the early 1980s.

While the overall service days total to just over 200 annually, the service at the Perumal Moolavar Sannidhi amounts to just 3-4 days every month. In the early phase of his service at the temple, there were three devotees who contributed to a majority of the Thattu Kaasu. A tailor presented Rs. 20 in the morning, while a Chettiar contributed Rs. 10 at noon. When Bangur Dharmasala chief visited the temple, he placed Rs. 20 on the Thattu. This was shared among multiple Kainkaryapakas. There was minimal Thattu Kaasu outside of these during that phase.

Full Archanai at Moolavar Sannidhi

There was a time when archakas actually performed full fledged archanai both in the Perumal Moolavar and Thayar Sannidhi. Some of the traditional residents of Srirangam in the 1950s and 60s actually paid for a full year of archanai (approx Rs. 50) thus pushing the family members to actually visit the temple to invoke the blessings of the Lord. The archakas got a share in the archanai and this too contributed in a small way to their income. To those in the new gen, it is almost unthinkable that there was a period in the not too distant past when the archakas of Srirangam actually waited for devotees to come and ask for archanai. Today, the devotee does not get more than a second to have darshan, such has been the devotional wave that has hit the temple in the last decade or two.

Thattu Kaasu was almost nonexistent in other sannidhis at this huge temple. Many of the Sannidhis remained shut most of the time. A few kms East, at the Singa Perumal Temple, the Parijaraka would go around the town selling the prasadam to devotees to try and make some money every day. Such was the state of life for the service personnel at the temple.

New Constructions galore

In the 2^nd half of the previous century, as a young boy, Murali Bhattar saw extensive new constructions coming up in many of the sannidhis in this huge temple. The new additions not only resulted in dark sannidhis but also led to violations on many other fronts. He along with most other archakas are delighted that almost all the new additions of the previous century has been brought down and the temple has been restored to its historical glory.

No Hunger No Money

Murali Bhattar remembers those decades in his life “There was neither ‘hunger’ nor money in our lives. We had got used to eating ‘Pazhaya Saatham’. Having father the service personnel encounter huge financial challenges, there was always a fear inside us in those days that the money from the temple would just not be enough to manage a family.” His father had to sell historical properties to sustain the family finances. And financial insecurity loomed large in the lives of the archakas.

This also led him to join BHEL, Trichy in the 1980s from where he retired earlier this decade. Almost all the archakas of the period went to jobs locally as a solution to the financial challenges that they and their parents had faced. As a consequence, the next gen focused on academics. It was a phase of life when an entire generation of upcoming archakas spent time in school and collegiate education, many of whom also pursuing Masters. Both the sons of Murali Bhattar completed their Masters and went into a corporate life at the turn of the century.

The last decade or so has seen a big turnaround in the temple’s fortunes. From a period 60 years ago, when the archakas waited at the Sannidhi for that elusive devotee, today the overflowing devotee crowd has led to big challenges in crowd management. Interestingly though, this positive financial reversal in temples also led to the sons quitting their corporate jobs and joining the temple service recently.

Sri Jayanthi Utsavam - The Revival

The most delightful restoration for him as an archaka has been the transformation of the Sri Jayanthi mandapam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/09/sripandaram-krishna-jayanthi-utsavam.html). Such was the additional construction in that zone in the previous century that even the traditional inhabitants of Srirangam had come to forget the historical importance of the place. This zone was converted into a madapalli and many service personnel ran this as a ‘business center’. The revival of the Sri Jayathi procession to its earlier grandeur to him has been most significant part of the restoration exercise.

Following the largest restoration initiative at the temple that lasted 18 months(http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/11/venu-srinivasan-srirangam-temple.html), he anchored the grand Samprokshanam and with it also came the huge responsibility of the post of The Chief Priest of the Ranganathaswamy temple in one of the most challenging times for this ancient Divya Desam.

With the huge swelling crowds topping 70000 on big festive days, his responsibility has increased manifold. He has devotionally managed to perform his duty in as sincere a way as possible straddling between accommodating the huge devotee crowd and sticking to the agamas and pooja procedures. The current scenario presents a completely different challenge from the ones during the days of his father but Murali Bhattar is confident that he will be able to devotionally perform his service in the same way that his forefathers had in the centuries gone by (he has a family tree dating back 300 years of his forefathers having performed service at this temple).

From the hesitant start in the 1980s, he has come a long way to don the mantle of the Chief Priest at the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam. This really has been a devotionally interesting journey for the 63 year old Murali Bhattar.

It was at this temple that Lord Kripapureeswarar asked Sundarar to praise him as the ‘Mad’ one

The legendary episodes from Sundarar's life are enacted during the two day Avathara Utsavam in Aadi

In a great devotional beginning, legendary Saint Poet Sundara Murthy Nayanar in his very first verse on Kripapureeswarar of Thiruvennainallur refers to the ‘ARULAALAA’ character of the Lord and gives one an indication how God is compassionate to this devotees, those that offer their sincere prayers to him. When Sundarar asks Kripapureeswarar inside the Thiruvennainallur temple as to how he can praise him and if he was fit at all, the Lord asks him to praise with the very same word (mad) that he had referred to the old man at the wedding mandapa. A delighted Sundarar reaffirms that the Lord of Thiruvennainallur is indeed a MAD one for how else would he shower his blessings on this devotee who had thrown abuses at him, one who had torn the Olai document into pieces and show his compassion by preventing this devotee from being bonded into a married life.

In his first verse, Sundarar begins with a reference to the Lord as Mad in providing arulaalaa to his devotees.

பித்தா பிறைசூடி பெருமானே அருளாளா

எத்தால்மறவாதே நினைக்கின்றேன்

மனத்துன்னைவைத்தாய் பெண்ணைத்தென்பால்

வெண்ணைநல்லூர்அருட்டுறையுள்

அத்தா உனக்காளாய்

இனிஅல்லேன்எனல்ஆமே

Lord Shiva wanted Sundarar, his ardent devotee in Kailayam to go to the Bhoologam to sing his praise and spread devotion among the people there and spread dharmic messages. When Sundarar went to pluck flowers in the Nandavanam as part of his every day process, his eyes fell on two young women, assistants to Parvathi, who too were there to pluck flowers from the same Nandavanam. When he went back with the garland, the Lord shocked him by informing Sundarar that he granting him what currently interested his devotee (as he was attracted to the two women that day). A shocked Sundarar asked if this was a blessing or a punishment. The Lord directed Sundarar to go to Bhoologam and sing verses that would serve as great life lessons for those who sway from Godly thoughts and that he would prevent Sundarar from bondage in his life on earth. Accepting this, Sundarar asked for his thoughts to be always of Shiva when in bhoolagam.

He was born to Sadayanar and Isai Gnaniyaar in a Shivachariar family in Thiru Navalur, about 20kms South East of Thiru Vennai Nallur and 20kms West of Thiru Vathigai (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/12/thiru-vathigai-veerateswarar.html).

When Narasinga Munayarayan, the king who ruled from Sernthamangalam, on the Northern side of Kedilam, came to Thiru Navalur, he was impressed with the boy’s qualities of running a chariot at such a young age and expressed interest to bring him up in his kingdom. In the 16^th year, his parents found a suitable bride for him at Puthur (near Panruti), the daughter of Sadankavi Shivachariar.

The formalities began in right earnest with homams. The people of Thiru Navalur were delighted at having found such a beautiful girl for Sundarar. Just ahead of the important moment in his life, an elderly person with the sacred ash on his forehead, a bag on his shoulder, a rudraksham hanging on his chest, a stick in hand and sandals announced to the gathering that that the bridegroom is his slave and that he had to immediately follow his instructions. Angered at this direction, Sundarar hit back at the old man questioning his slavery to another human and called him Mad. The elderly man retorted that he had proof of his forefathers being slaves to him and that he too is now a slave as part of the historical agreement. When the old man presented the proof, Sundarar cut it and threw into the homam fire. Shouting out at Sundarar, the old man said that he had correctly predicted the reaction of Sundarar and thus as a proactive measure he had safeguarded the original document back home in Thiruvennainallur and called out for the society to gather there so he could show the proof.

The people of Thiru Navalur and Puthur gathered at the Thiruvennainallur. The old man read out from the original document

“அருமறைநாவல்ஆதிசைவன்ஆரூரன்செய்கை

பெருமுனிவெண்ணைநல்லூர்பித்தனுக்குயானும்

என்பால் வருமுறை மரபினோரும்வழித்தொண்டு

செய்ய இவ்வோலைஅருமையாய்எழுதினேன்

இதற்குஇவைஎன்எழுத்து”

When the Panchayat asked for proof of this indeed being the signature of Sundarar’s forefathers, the people went back to Navalur and brought back the Olai Chuvadi and found that the signatures tallied and pronounced that Sundarar was indeed a slave to that old man and should now act as per his direction. When the curious people of Thiruvennainallur asked him as to he was and where he stayed for they had never seen him in the agraharam, the old man asked them to accompany him. At the entrance of the temple he left the sandals and went inside much. When Sundarar alone accompanied him into the temple, he disappeared much to Sundarar’s shock. Sundarar once again expressed his anger with the remark ‘you stopped the wedding, you said that I am your slave and now you disappear without disclosing your identity.”

It was then that an invisible voice informed Sundarar the purpose of the event that preceded this disappearance and how Lord Kripapureeswarar had come to protect him by prevent his marriage thus helping him from bondage. The Lord said that Sundarar had served with great devotion in Kailayam and that he should now sing verses in praise of the Lord. An embarrassed Sundarar, who had called the old man Mad asked the Lord as to how he could praise him for he had only then referred to him as MAD. The Lord asked him to start the verse with that very same word. Thus Sundara Murthy Nayanar begins his praise of 10 verses on Lord Kripapureeswarar of Thiru Vennai Nallur with the same word ‘Pithan’ and refers to the Lord as ‘Arulaalaa’, one who showed compassion even on someone who had referred to him as being mad.

In his 9^th verse, Sundarar says that the Lord gives relief to devotees who come here and invoke his blessings with sincere devotion.

முழுவாள்வலன்ஏந்தீமறையோதிமங்கைபங்கா

தொழுவாரவர்துயராயினதீர்த்தல்லுனதொழிலே

செழுவார்பெண்ணைத்தென்பால்

வெண்ணைநல்லூர்அருட்டுறையுள்

அழகாஉனக் காளாய் இனிஅல்லேன்எனலாமே

Sundarar took the Paathugai on his head and placed it in the sanctum. A special feature at this temple is that the sandals of the Lord is seen at the sanctum.

Following this, Sundarar went to Thiru Vathigai, Chidambaram, Sirkazhi, Tiruvarur and Tiruvottiyur singing praise of the Lord ( story on this follows shortly)

The Name Thiru Vennai Nallur

When Ambigai took the form of Durga to kill Mahishasura, she remained in an angry state subsequent to the event. With butter, she created a Shiva Lingam and performed Pooja here at this place invoking the blessings of the Lord. It was here that she regained her composure. As she created the Lingam with butter, this place came to be called as Thiru ‘Vennai’ Nallur. As she regained her beautiful form, she provides darshan here as ‘Mangalambigai’.

Periyava's Message and Seven Decades of Service
80 year old Gurukal has lived all his life at Thiruvennainallur. He has performing pooja at this temple for almost 70years almost single handedly. He began service at a salary of Rs.10 and for many decades that remained his salary. There was no power in those days. It was he who lit the lamp at the Sannidhis. During his teenage days, there was a long agraharam in the West Street with over 100 traditional families being an integral part of this historical town. But they all left the town in the 70s and 80s in search of jobs in cities and today there no traditionalists other than the Gurukal’s family in this ancient town.

For a major part of his life, he and his family struggled to make both ends meet. Once when he met Maha Periyava in Kanchipuram, the great Saint passed by with these words ‘Do not leave the temple’. It is only for that reason that he has continued the devotional service without any financial returns from the temple. He officially retired in 2006, though for the last 15years he has still been active at the temple. His grandson who performs service as a temporary staff is now paid a monthly salary of Rs. 2000. It has taken over seven decades for the salary to move up from Rs. 10 to Rs. 2000.

The HRCE funded Uchi Kaalam Pooja, the morning pooja funded by Aatheenam, the evening pooja funded from the lands have all been stopped long ago. For the Artha Jaama pooja, he gets 25kgs rice once every quarter. Unmindful of these challenges, he has continued all the poojas through these decades. In those decades, the land titles clearly indicated the money to be paid to the temple and the tillers would pay on time. Over time, with the changed political scenario, he has not been able to get any revenue from the temple lands and has been left to manage the financials all by himself through the devotees.

Many devotees have experienced dramatic positive changes in their lives after his archanai and pooja at this temple. It was through one such devotee that he completed the full electrification of the temple. Through another devotee, he built an idol of Sundarar and the old man involved in the debate at the mandapam on the North Side of the Eastern Entrance. The entire flooring was converted to granite. He has done 100s of Chandi Homam at the temple.

At 80, his back and legs have become weak and he is not able to walk with ease anymore. In his lifetime, he has performed three Kumbabhisekams at this temple with the fourth one set to take place shortly. He is keen on completing the construction of the 7 Tier Raja Gopuram that is currently under way at the Eastern Entrance and soon after its completion, he is hoping that Kripapureeswarar will bless him with a 4^thKumbabhisekam at this temple.

Festivals

2 day Festival for Sundarar in Aadi – The episodes from his life are enacted during these two days

10 Brahmotsavam in Panguni

The temple is open from 6am to 12noon and from 4pm to 830pm. Contact Arthanareeswarar@ 96268 07015

How to reach

Thiruvennainallur is 20kms South West of Villupuram and 15kms West of Thiru Navalur, the birth place of Sundarar. Buses ply every half hour from Villupuram. One can get down at Arasur Cross Road and board the Cuddalore/Panruti- Thirukovilur bus to get down at Thiruvennainallur (10kms)

The grandest Kumbhabhishekam seen in the State took place this morning after a gap of 23 years

For a temple that was inundated with Bats not so long ago, this mega event has been a monumental transformation, orchestrated by Prince Babaji Bhonsle

The Brihadeeswarar temple (popularly known as the Big Temple) in Thanjavur considered a unique gem of Chozha, Nayak and Maratha artistic achievements has just seen a consecration after 23 years. It would be hard for any devotee or tourist from the current generation to believe that in the not too distant past, the now World Heritage Site of Brihadeeswarar temple was inundated with hundreds of bats, and devotees and priests alike dreaded going inside the temple with darkness all around. Till the 20^th century, there had been only two Kumbhabhishekams at the temple one during Raja Raja Chozhan’s rule and the other in early 19^th Century anchored by King Sarfoji. Rajaram Raja Sahib, the grandfather of the current Prince Babaji Bhonsle, was keen to restore the temple to its ancient glory but the finances were poor. The Big Temple was not a tourist destination as it is now. It was not a devotional destination either. The fact that it was not a Paadal Petra Sthalam did not help.

Dark Days – 75 years ago

Erudite Scholar and Teacher of Saiva Siddhantha, Octogenarian, 86 year old, T.N. Ramachandran has been in Thanjavur for the last 60 years. He says that the temple as seen now bears no resemblance to what it was 75 years ago “Almost all of us stood for a while at the eastern gopuram as a nice breeze struck us every time one made his way into the temple. It was a special experience. There were no electric lights in those days and the Sannidhis were illuminated by Ghee lamps. For such a huge temple complex, the darkness was scary and no one entered the temple after sunset fearing dangerous reptiles that moved around inside the temple complex.”

The Big Temple Scenario in the 1960s

A Hindu Religious Endowment Commission under Dr. CP Ramaswamy Iyer had inspected the Big Temple in the early 1960s. In their submission, the members said that the archeological department in their renovation and restoration efforts will have to look after the preservation of the main tower and various other parts of this far flung temple premises. The monolithic glories of the main temple and the paintings enshrined in the walls are truly marvelous “At present, it seemed that something akin to the labour spent on the Taj Mahal and Jamma Masjid has to be attempted in this place whose architectural and pictorial remains are unrivalled in India.” That was the desperate state of the Big Temple 60 years ago with a crying need for restoration and preservation.

The process of driving away bats

88 year old K Ramanarayanan who worked in the Revenue department in Thanjavur for several decades was a close confidant of Rajaram Rajah Saheb for several decades and is probably the only one to be actively involved in three successive Kumbabhisekams. He was an integral part of the entire process of the now legendary Kumbabhisekam of 1980. He was a committee member in the controversial Kumbabhisekam of 1997 and at this old age, despite health issues, he is involved as a committee member in the current Kumbabhisekam. It was Ramnarayanan who moved the Pudukottai Collector and secured an approval for extensive lighting of the temple complex way back in the 1960s.

He remembers those times in the mid 1960s “Thanjavur Collector Veda Narayanan was a disciple of Maha Periyava. In 1965, he sought the blessings of Periyava who directed him to light 500 ghee lamps at the Sannidhi every Friday with contributions from devotees. It was this devotional endeavour that led to the bats being driven away from the temple that year. It was with the blessings of Periyava that he revived the festivals at the Big Temple by bringing in donors. It was just the sort of fillip needed for the temple at that time.”

Maha Periyava set up the Brihadeeswarar Pooja Trust by Periyava. The trust began providing Oil, Milk and Rice for abhisekam, a tradition that is followed to this day.

Inspiration from Thiru Vathigai

It is believed that Raja Raja Chozhan was so inspired by the beauty of the Saint Poet Appar praised Veerataneswarar temple in Thiru Vathigai (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/12/thiru-vathigai-veerateswarar.html) that he studied its architectural aspects before construction of Brihadeeswarar temple in Thanjavur.

The Rathanga Vimanam atop the Moolavar Sannidhi , near Panruti is an architectural wonder. In memory of this, the Veerataneswarar temple is referred to as ‘Periya Koil’s Thanthai Koil’ (the father temple to The Big Temple). It was in 1967 that the Aipasi Sathaya Vizha to celebrate the birthday of Raja Raja Chozhan was revived. Othuvars were brought in from across the state to present the Thevaram Verses on that day. To this day, the annual celebrations have continued.

The Raja’s regard for Maha Periyava even in the most testing of financial times was so high that he handed the Palace’s huge building in the prime location on Mela Veethi to the Mutt.

Gurukal’s Devotional Commitment

86 year old TK Ramanadha Gurukal served the Lord with great devotion for over four decades in the most challenging of phases at the Big Temple in the 2^nd half of the previous century having joined the temple at a salary of Rs.45. These days he is short on hearing but remembers vividly those years

“Very few devotees visited the temple. There was minimal Thattu Kaasu. In the 1970s, we were only three shivachariars to manage the pooja in all the sannidhis. But the Palace always stood by us. They were keen on our welfare and tried their best to support us in every possible way. Not once did it cross my mind to go away from the Big Temple in search of other lucrative opportunities. It was soon after I joined the Big Temple that a son was born and hence we named him Brihadeeswara.”

Pravachanams – A regular feature inside the Periya Koil

Ramachandran says that Pravachanams by renowned scholars was a regular feature inside the Periya Koil in those decades. He himself presented spiritual lectures week on week through the 1960s and 70s at the Big Temple. Devotees came specifically to hear his talks on Saiva Siddhantha Sastras and the significance of the Thevaram Verses and went back with devotional messages for life. He realized early on that the sacred verses were a gold mine as it taught one the way to live life and spent a lot of time to understand the nuances and intricate meanings of the sacred verses of the Saint Poets. This was particularly helpful in answering incisive questions from the audience at the end of these sessions.

Alankarams during the Navarathri Festival

He points to the Navarathri Festival at the Ambal Sannidhi as being one of the big occasions in the year “Sivachariars of the time were alankaram specialists. Aesthetic sense was very high in those decades and the Sivachariars were perfectionists. Each day of the Navarathri Utsavam, they would drape Ambal in a special alankaram and devotees flocked in large numbers from Thanjavur and all the nearby villages to take a look at the ‘Alankaram of the Day’.”

The 1980 Kumbabhisekam

Rajaram Raja Saheb wanted to perform the Kumbabhisekam of the Big Temple during his lifetime as it had not been done for almost two centuries. He sought the blessings of Maha Periyava who was the Raja Guru of the Thanjavur Raja’s family. Rajaram Raja Sahib was solely guided by Periyava in all his decisions.

Ramanarayanan narrates an incident that took place over six decades ago that left the then CM of TN Shri. C Rajagopalachari furious “When the financial position was poor at the Thanjavur Palace, Rajaji offered the powerful post of ADC to the then Senior Prince of Thanjavur that would have contributed to the financial revival. Periyava did not want the royalty to go and serve as a Government servant and directed the Prince to not accept the offer. And the Prince refused Rajaji’s almost irresistible offer.”

Ramanarayanan, who received a letter from Collector Gangappa commending his support through the entire Kumbabhisekam process, says that Periyava was the sole inspirational force behind the Kumbabhisekam efforts gaining momentum and the subsequent successful consecration.

It turned out to one of the biggest and the grandest of Kumbabhisekams in the State at that time. It was the Kumbabhisekam of 1980 that led to this transformation at the Big Temple in Thanjavur.

A sudden strike by the Sri Patham Thangis

Ramnarayanan has jitters even now when he looks back at some anxious moments on the evening of the Kumbabhisekam “Ahead of the procession that evening following the Kumbabhisekam, the Sri Patham Thangis protested and launched a sudden strike citing pending wage payment. Also, the idol of Raja Raja Chozhan was hidden (by vicious elements) much to the shock of the temple authorities. Both these issues were sorted in time and the grand procession took place as planned around the four streets.”

The 2020 Kumbabhisekam

Turn on to 2020, lakhs of devotees are visiting the temple this week. 8 Kaalam Pooja took place at a beautifully decorated Yaaga Salai that was fully funded by the Kanchi Mutt. Close to 50 Othuvars from across the state presented Thevaram verses at multiple locations inside the temple. Some of the revered and senior most Shivachariars including Pichai Gurukal of Pillayarpatti and Raja Bhattar of Thiruparankundram were part of the Kumbabhisekam festivities that began last Saturday (Feb 1).

Ashtabandana medicine was being applied on 338 idols inside the temple complex as part of the Kumbabhisekam. A devotee from Coimbatore pledged his house to contribute in full to the gold plating (650gms of Gold) of all the 7 Kalasams. A philanthropist from Kumbakonam who had contributed to the old Dwajasthambam has also funded the new flag post. The broken sculptures and the vahanas have been repaired.

As part of the this Kumbabisekam celebrations, 48 Othuvars including some of the senior most in Tamil Nadu such as Swaminathan (Thiruthani), Shanmughasundaram (Palani), Muthukumaran (Madurai), Kumara Swaminathan (Karur), Sivakumar (Mayiladuthurai), Sundar (Karivalamvanthanallur) and Sathugurunathar (Mylapore) participated in the Big Temple Kumbabhisekam festivities and presented Aganda Parayanam, Panniru Thirumurai Muthu Othuthal.

As he looks at the arrangements for this Kumbabhisekam, Ramnarayanan finds a mega turnaround from the troubles ahead of the 1980 Kumbabhisekam “Back then, there was a struggle to put together the requisite finances for the Kumbabhisekam. There was uncertainty all around. People were generally anxious about the successful completion of the event. 40 years on, the devotees are now competing with each other to support the consecration. The dynamic Prince Babaji Bhonsle set up 59 committees well ahead of time with close to 1000 volunteers working tirelessly for several months leading up to the event. The security arrangements have been of the highest order with 100s of policemen working round the clock. There has been great cooperation from the Corporation officials for this mega event. The Prince has organised food for the volunteers and the police officials at multiple Kalyana Mandapams during the five days of the event.”

Reviving the Big Temple - A Mega Success

It’s been the biggest event since Prince Babaji Bhonsle took over the Thanjavur Palace from his grandfather Rajaram Raja Saheb in the mid 1980s, when he was still in his teens. The previous one in 1997 was marred by fire at the Yaaga Salai and the authorities just about managed to complete the consecration. The one prior to that in 1980 was a long time coming and took place after a century. But this one has been a grand success.

The Prince has seen this as a really long rally. There was a time in the Palace’s history when the temple staff were paid salary 15 months ahead of time. There was also a period when there was no place to store rice, the availability was in such abundance. But when he took over in the mid 80s, he felt like he had taken charge immediately after a Tsunami. Everything seemed so bleak. For a long time, he spent money from his pocket to keep the 88 temples active.

But he saw it as his duty to safeguard, protect and develop these 88 temples. He wanted to ensure that the Palace brings back the people connect to temples and thus solicited their active involvement. He wanted to be surrounded by devotional people. He sowed the seeds then in the mid 1980s and brought together the people of Thanjavur to help it sprout and grow.

Today’s Consecration, easily one of the best seen in the state is culmination of over three decades of hard work by the Thanjavur Palace led by Babaji Bhonsle. But the Prince has his feet firmly rooted to the ground. He sees it as his duty to get the next gen to protect our heritage and historical structures. That he sees as one of his biggest tasks going forward. With what he has achieved over the last three decades one can be confident that he will be able to instill this mindset in the next gen.

Those Unforgettable 18 days in 1958

Educationist and Director of Sivaswami Kalalaya, Vathsala Narayanaswami, then 26, took a bold and independent call to clear the entire house on Sundareswarar Street in Mylapore to make way for Maha Periya's stay 60 years ago

Within days of her wedding, Educationist and Director of Sivaswami Kalalaya Dr. Vathsala Narayanaswami was blessed to have darshan of Kanchi Maha Periyava in 1958. A couple of months later, much to her delightful surprise, the greatest of opportunity came her way all on its own - a divine one that any devotee would have been happy to be presented with. Just ahead of Deepavali that year, Sankara Mutt placed a request to the new household asking for her residence on Sundareswarar Street to be handed to Maha Periyava for three days.

87 year old Vathsala finds it difficult to move around freely these days given her age but her eyes simply light up when asked about the year when Periyava stayed in her house for 18days. Those devotionally exciting days remain fresh in her memory for it was one that transformed her life and gave her the unflinching belief that she had Periyava’s blessing forever.

A Throw back in time

She had married D Narayanaswami in July that year and moved into the house in Sundareswarar Street that was right behind the Sankara Mutt in Mylapore. Her first Deepavali after the wedding was just round the corner when the Mutt approached the newly married couple asking them for the house, for Periyava to stay for three days.

Her father in law, Padmashri N. Dharmarajan (of Hirakud Project fame), was out of city on work. Her husband had spent his entire childhood and teenage years in the North and was not particularly familiar with the traditions of the South Indian Temples and the lifestyle of the Acharyas. Her sister in law was doing her graduation at the SIET College. Given this background, her mother in law was a little apprehensive.

But the young 26 year old newcomer to the house took a bold call on acceding to the ‘3 days’ request of Sankara Mutt “I told my mother in law that we could all move to my father’s house on GN Chetty road, T Nagar and that I would drop the sister in law every day at college and pick her up as well.”

All the family members immediately vacated the house handing possession to the Sankara Mutt. Periyava stayed in the bed room while Jayendra Saraswathi resided in the front room of the house. The back wall of the house was broken to create a passage for the disciples to bring milk and food for Periyava from the Mutt.

A Twist to the tale - 3 days extended to 18 days

It was not the end of the story for there was another twist to the tale. Her father in law sent a telegram that he was taking the next flight to Madras as he had completed his work in Calcutta. Not knowing as to how his father would react, Narayanaswami had not updated him about the developments back home. He picked his father from the airport and drove straight to their home in Mylapore. Soon after Dharmarajan reached, Periyava welcomed him with these words “Padmashri - I have entered your home without you knowing.” Periyava had not been told about the achievements of Dharmarajan or his arrival at the house. And yet as soon as he entered, Periyava addressed him as ‘Padmashri’. Tears rolled down Dharmarajan’s eyes. So moved was he by Periyava’s presence that the three day plan was extended and Periyava stayed there for 18 days.

“My father in law commended me for the courageous decision to have the entire family vacate the house with no second thoughts” says Vathsala. It remains one of the happiest moments in her life.

Periyava’s Divine words

She encountered many more dramatic experiences with Periyava, each of which increased her belief in Periyava’s devotional powers. Many years later, when Vathsala’s mother was diagnosed with cancer, Vathsala took her along to Kanchi to meet Periyava. When she presented Kalkandu to Periyava that morning, he, after consuming a pinch of it, told her ‘She is hale and healthy. There will be nothing to worry.” Vathsala’s mother lived a healthy life for many more years.

A CEO once came to her house on work and immediately felt a happy vibration. He asked her if any saint had been there. He later returned and handed a huge black and white photo frame of Periyava that finds a prominent place in her pooja room even today.

Vathsala finds it difficult to explain the fact that in recent years seven cows from different streets and locations have chosen a tree inside her house on Sundarareswar Street to give birth “This week an eighth cow in pregnancy has entered the house and has taken her place beneath the tree. I strongly believe that the presence of Periyava for those 18 days in 1958 has made this home so sacred that it finds unlikely visitors.”

No bringing down of her home

Six decades on, Vathsala and her husband stay all alone in the huge bungalow with their son having settled in the US. They have resisted the temptation to sell the independent house despite tremendous pressure from many to convert it into a flat “I do not want to bring down a house where Periyava had once stayed” sums up Vathsala on the impact Periyava’s presence in her house has had on her life.

Periyava reached out to me at Sanskrit College - Narayanaswami

Narayanaswami spent the best part of his first three decades in the North and hence was not accustomed to the traditions of the South Indian Temples. Within a few days of his marriage to Vathsala, he accompanied her to Sanskrit College, where Periyava was residing. Since he was not used to these traditions, he stood outside the College while his wife and parents waited inside for a darshan of Periyava. Much to his surprise, a man knocked on him and told him that he was called for by Periyava.

Narayanaswami shocked everyone with his answer “Periyava would not know me. I too have not seen him before. Hence I think this is a case of mistaken identity. Please go back and check for the right person that he is looking for. Stunned by my statement, more senior members of the Mutt approached me to take me to Periyava, who showered his blessings on me and my wife and wished me a happy married life. 60 years on, I believe that it’s that wedding gift – Periyava’s blessings - that has helped us lead a peaceful and enjoyable life.”

“It was a great first experience with Periyava and I was truly blessed to have been personally called for by him that day. That’s when I realized the great devotional power in him.”

(Dr. Vathsala Narayanaswami holds a Ph. D in Education and is currently the Hony Secy, The National Boys’ and Girls’ Education Society)

An exclusive Thevaram Patshala provides opportunities for budding Othuvars

Currently there are only 120 Othuvars in TN though the Paadal Petra Sthalam number 274

While Vedic Patshalas have sprung up across the State in recent years, there has been a dearth of a ‘Thirumurai’ Patshalas. The shortage can be seen from the fact that currently there are only 120 Trained Othuvars who have graduated through the typical five year Gurukulam model of Thirumurai education, a number that is less than half of the 274 Paadal Petra Sthalams, temples praised by Saivite Saint Poets. Most Thevaram temples do not have an Othuvar. There is no Formal Gurukulam styled Thirumurai Patshala to train Othuvars

Historically, the Kings were keen to spread the dharmic messages of the Saint Poets and placed the Othuvars and their contribution on a high pedestal. They saw the Othuvars’ daily ritual in front of the God as being integral to the everyday proceedings in temples. Buoyed by this encouragement from the great rulers, the Othuvar service gained prominence and they grew in large numbers and performed service over several centuries across temples in Tamil Nadu.

However, as with priests, driven by low salaries and the cutting down on provisions that were once handed out in large quantities to service personnel, the Othuvars too saw a downturn in the second half of the previous century and their numbers have since dwindled quite drastically. In recent decades, most of the new generation Othuvars have graduated mostly through a three year course offered by the Music Schools as against the traditional Gurukulam model Thevaram Patshalas in the past.

Reviving Othuvars in Thevaram Temples

15 years ago, S Manivasagan, an entrepreneur from Chennai stopped by on the road when he heard a rendition of the Thirumurai by the Othuvars. So captivated was he by their devotional recital that he immediately decided to focus his attention on the betterment of the Othuvars. He formed a specific trust ‘Aalavai Annal Trust’ with the objective of promoting the cause of the Othuvars across all the Thevaram temples, especially the remote ones.

As a first step, Manivasagam began pooling in Othuvars from across the State to participate in Kumbabhisekams. He then moved his attention on their role in historical festivals in these Thevaram Temples and very soon got them to present the sacred verses during the Lord’s procession in these ancient temples especially during the Brahmotsavam.

An Exclusive Thirumuruai Patshala in TN

With the purpose of creating the next generation of experts in Thirumurai, Manivasagan started a Thirumurai Patshala six years ago from a small rented building in Chidambaram. He roped in the renowned Muthukumaran Othuvar, who had presented the sacred verses at the Meenakshi Amman temple in Madurai for over a decade, to be a member of the Trust. Sivakumar Othuvar, who continues to serve at the Mayuranathar temple in Mayiladuthurai, too joined him at this Thirumurai Patshala as the Acharya. Over the last six years, the two Othuvars have gone around the state to find interested students and to get them initiated into the Thirumurai verses of the Saivite Saint Poets.

Gurukulam form of Education

The two experienced Othuvars have put a strong system in place at this Gurukulam style Patshala and the students are put through a stringent daily devotional routine starting each day at 5am and ending at 930pm. As a pre requisite to admission, each of the interested students have to undergo a voice test.

The Daily Routine for the students

5am Music Presentation

9am Formal Thirumurai Class

3pm Learning the way of presenting the Thevaram Verses

6pm Reciting Shiva Puranam all the way to the Thillai temple

7pm Rehearsing the day’s lessons sitting at the Naalvar Sannidhi

Manivasagan believes that this is only the starting point of the revival and other likeminded people should initiate the setting up of more Thirumurai Patshalas elsewhere in the state“Just one trust cannot do the job for the entire state and more people have to come forward in a combined effort to replenish and fill the gaps that currently exists for Othuvars in Thevaram temples.”

An annual trip to all Thevaram Sthalams

Every Margazhi, the entire bunch of around 20 students are taken on a ten day trip to all the Padal Petra Sthalams where they recite the relevant verses sung by the Saint Poets. The first batch of five students has just graduated this week and a few of them have already found service at ancient temples.

Big Opportunities for Othuvars

Muthukumaran Othuvar is of the view that there are great opportunities for the upcoming Othuvars “At a peak point in the century gone by, there were multiple Othuvars present in many of the ancient Thevaram temples, such was the prominence given to the Othuvars in the past. With most of the Padal Petra Sthalams not having the presence of even a single Othuvar, there are ample opportunities for these fully trained Othuvars in the future.”

Historically, Nadaswaram, Vedas and Geetham were part of the daily ritual in temples, of which the musical Thirumurai presentation by the Othuvars was an important component. Muthukumaran Othuvar is hopeful of the HR & CE appointing Othuvars in every Padal Petra Sthalam and reviving this traditional practice.

In December, Othuvars from across the state gathered to celebrate the inauguration of 5000 sq feet own building of the biggest Thirumurai Patshala in the state, right next to the historical Ilamaiyaakinar temple in Chidambaram. This large sized own building of the trust entirely dedicated to the running of the Thirumurai Patshala will serve as a great encouragement for budding Othuvars and it is hoped that there will be more such exclusive Patshalas for Thirumurai initiation opened in the state so as to revive the Othuvar recital in Thevaram Sthalams.

Those interested to contribute to the development and in this revival process of Othuvars can contact: 93801 63791/99447 90380.

Former league Cricketer VS Sukumar who ran a cricket club in the TNCA league revived the historic Gandhi Nagar ground earlier this decade and has transformed it to the best in the lower division TNCA league

TNCA would do well to study the success model from Sukumar and implement this across all the league grounds in the city

Venkataraghavan used to watch leagues matches at the ground seated at the same position on his cycle!!!!

It was once a beautiful ground to play cricket and helped swing bowlers. The small pavilion was a special feature at the ground. Teams that came to play here had to pack their kit bags with old balls for it always only a matter of time before a ball was despatched into the river and the umpires would signal for the replacement balls. And then for almost three decades, the historic Gandhi Nagar Cricket and Sports Club (GNC & SC) ground on Gandhi Nagar 4^th Main Road had remained shut. Former league cricketer and a resident of Gandhinagar VS Sukumar, a qualified CA and a Partner in V. Soundararajan & Co founded by his father in 1936, who had played several matches at this ground in the 60s and 70s and who also ran a lower division league team for many decades was keen to revive cricket activities there and at the turn of last decade spearheaded the movement to regain physical possession of the entire ground. And he finally succeeded on 1^stJanuary 2012. Sukumar also roped in former TN Ranji Trophy winning captain S Vasudevan as the Chief Coach and Mentor for the coaching programme at the ground. Vasudevan has already produced state cricketers in age group cricket.

The Early Story

It all began in the mid 1950s. The Gandhi Nagar Co-operative Colony was the first organised colony south of the Adyar River. Constructed in 1948-49, the first set of residents started occupying in 1950-51. Such was their vision that they deemed it fit to leave open pieces of land for sports activity.They identified a local body of individuals and asked them to form a society and entrusted the ground to them. GNC & SC was registered in 1956 with GN co-op society managing this.

In the first year that they entered the TNCA league, GNC & SC won the championship. NRC (National Recreation Club) was a 2^nd team given on a gentleman’s agreement by the founders of this society (this writer played for that team just under a couple of decades ago). An opening bat and off spinner, Sukumar played league cricket for over 30 years for NRC. He started playing in the TNCA City Schools tournament representing Rani Meyyammai High School, Gandhi Nagar. In the 1970s, S. Govinda Rao took all 10 wickets in a TNCA league match at this ground watched by his team mate Sukumar.

Gandhi Nagar Starlets (a TNCA league team) was also another team promoted by them but unfortunately this was registered as a private club with the TNCA.

In those days, nets facility was made available at this ground for a fee of Rs. 3. TNCA paid a fee of Rs. 10 per match.

Sixers into the Adyar River

TNCA Umpire Kumaraswamy who umpired many a match at this ground has interesting memories from those early years ‘The batsman at the Adyar end could clearly see the Adyar River and there were many occasions when the ball was smacked over the bowler’s head into the river. Also, in those early decades of cricket here, there was just one bus service to this area across the Adyar Bridge. Hence, umpires had to walk across the bridge or come by cycle to umpire a match here.’

Venkat’s unique watching position

In the 1960s, legendary off spinner and former India captain S. Venkataraghavan would come to the ground in his cycle and watch the entire pre lunch session sitting in a particular posture on his cycle. He would go home for lunch and come back to be seated in the same position in his cycle through the entire post lunch session such was his passion for the game!!!

Vasudevan's League Debut

His spin bowling partner from the late 1970s and 80s and Ranji Trophy Winning Captain has been running a coaching academy at the Gandhi Nagar Sports Club ground since the revival of the ground. It was at this very ground that Vasudevan made his TNCA league debut in 1971 with a six wicket haul for Kamyuth. He remembers the serene atmosphere at the ground from the decades gone by ‘The atmosphere was great then in the 70s. The ground was surrounded by trees and we loved to play here. In fact, we used to sit under the trees instead of in the pavilion. I miss those trees now.’

Taking that cue, Sukumar has planted around 20 saplings that he hopes will one day grow into big trees like in the past adding to the grandeur of this ground.

Monsoon rains and impact on cricket matches

Floods in the Adyar river led to repeated encroachments into the ground leaving the then President a frustrated man. It used to take months to evict them. There was also fire on a couple of occasions from the temporary huts that had been put up in the ground. With the encroachments becoming a regular feature, the cricket ground was closed in 1984.

Legal actions were initiated by the Club for protecting the ground. The case went up to the Supreme Court. An order was passed directing the construction of a 10feet high 440feet long compound wall on the Northern side of the ground to prevent trespassing and misuse of the ground. The huge compound wall that was built later came down.

With the efforts taken by Sukumar and his brother VS Ravikumar, cricket activity has gained full steam. The main pitch has been re-laid. The outfield is lush green now. Initially starting off with two nets, this has now been expanded to five practice wickets. An additional wicket has been laid at the South Eastern corner of the ground where cricketers past their teens can have net practice at a nominal subscription fee.

TNCA supported this initiative by constructing the toilet and the roof for the pavilion. Earlier this decade, TNCA league matches were posted again at this ground after nearly 30years.

Walker’s Joint

GNC & SC has also provided over 1000 passes to local residents of Gandhi Nagar to use the space outside the cricket boundary as a walker’s path. It has now become a very popular walker’s joint especially for women for it is a very secure environment with closed walls and a security guard monitoring the ground.

Re-Affiliation to the TNCA

GNC & SC had been an affiliated member of TNCA since the mid 1950s. Due to the closure in 1984, GNC & SC’s affiliation with TNCA was lost. Therefore, the team could not participate in TNCA League from then. In 1984, the affiliation to the TNCA was lost. With the ground back in top condition, GNC & SC is awaiting re-affiliation into the TNCA that it had enjoyed for almost three decades from the mid 1950s. It is hoped that the TNCA will consider this favourably and soon provide the re-affiliation to this historic almost six decades old cricket club and take them back into their fold.

The Best Ground in the TNCA League

Through this decade, Sukumar has worked tirelessly to complete the transformation of this historic ground. It now ranks as the BEST ground in the TNCA lower division league. The marker Ramesh has done an outstanding job with the wicket and the outfield which is even on all sides. The creases are always well marked as is the boundary line, a rarity in TNCA lower division cricket when umpires have to repeatedly go behind the markers requesting them for some of the basic pre requisites for a game of cricket. A wall / fence has been built on the Northern side to prevent trespassing into the ground. Sukumar has also built a small pavilion on the Western side and the trees have already begun to grow to a decent size bringing back memories from the past.

Since its revival, Sukumar, currently unwell, has been a regular at the ground on the morning of the league matches ensuring that it meets all the requirements for the proper conduct of the match.

The Gandhi Nagar Sports Club Ground has been a great showpiece model on ground maintenance and TNCA would do well to understand the success model from Sukumar and take it across all other lower division league grounds in the city.

The temple is seen in a dilapidated state

No Full Time Priest, Restoration Efforts have hit a roadblock, All Utsavams have been stopped

Raja Gopuram sports a worn out look with the last renovation having taken place in 1939

The centuries old HR & CE administered Abhimana Sthalam at Sundara Perumal Koil, where Sundara Raja Perumal is seen in a handsome standing posture, has been in a discarded state for many years. Long time residents of the town who had seen Grand Utsavams in the decades gone by say that the last Samprokshanam was performed 80 years ago in 1939.

Long Serving Priest

Sundararaja Bhattar had served at the temple as the priest for 50 years from the early 1960s. For decades, he was paid a salary of just Rs. 300 which at the time of his death in 2014 had gone up to Rs. 1200 per month. That salary too remained unpaid for several months on the grounds of lack of income from the temple. Sundararaja Bhattar served at the temple with great devotional commitment even in the decades when there was no power connection in his house and when Rs. 200 was deducted from his salary as house rent.

Once Vibrant Utsavams

In the decade that Sundararaja Bhattar joined the temple, the agraharam was vibrant. Festivals were a regular feature including Garuda Sevai on Tamil New Year’s day.

There were also processions on the occasion of Krishna Jayanthi and on the Kanu day in Thai. 10 day Navarathri Festival too was celebrated in a grand way with Horse Vahana Procession on Vijayadasami. There was a four kalam pooja every day with sacred food presentations to the Lord that included Curd rice, Sundal and Sweet Pongal. In the outer prakara was a huge Nandavanam that was filled with different varieties of Jasmine trees. The Lord and Thayar were draped with beautiful garlands especially on festive occasions.

Current Scenario

Since the passing away of the long serving priest, the temple has seen a drastic deterioration with all the utsavams coming to a halt, with the utsava deities having been moved to ‘safe custody’ in Kumbakonam. Balalayam had been performed 7 years ago and repair works began. However, it came to an abrupt halt with only a couple of Vimanams and the outer walls being painted. The Raja Gopuram at the Eastern Entrance wears an old worn out look, having not been painted for 80 years. The Nandavanam that also had mango and coconut trees is almost non-existent now.

With the salary being at an abysmally low level, the descendants of Sundararaja Bhattar were not keen on continuing the services at the temple. For the last seven years, Kalyanasundaram, a Saivite has been performing a onetime pooja every day initially starting off with a salary of just Rs. 1000 a month. This has since been increased to Rs. 1500. The security is paid a salary of just Rs. 900 per month. Asks Kalyanasundaram, “How can one run a family with a salary of just over Rs. 1000. Expenses are mounting but the salary is just too low for a priest here.” He comes once a day for about an hour or so.

Madapalli Shut, No Theertham,Thaligai

There is darkness inside the temple with the old electrical wiring not having been upgraded for several decades. The Vahanas are in dilapidated condition and need to be repaired. For the last 7 years, there have not been any processions at the temple. The temple well is dirty and needs to be refurbished. With no water available at the temple, the madapalli has remained shut with the Lord not having been fed for many years. With the well in an unusable state, there is no ‘Theertham’ to perform the daily poojas.

There are separate sannidhis for Soundara Valli Thaayar, Vishwaksena, Yoga Narasimha, Kannan, Anjaneya and Azhvaars at the temple.

It is hoped that the HR & CE will take immediate steps to restore the temple to its ancient glory. Devotees also hoping that the HR & CE will pay a fair salary in line to the priest and the security. A cook has to be appointed for the madapalli. Vahanams have to be repaired and the historical utsavams revived. But for this to happen the HR & CE has to take steps towards performing the Samprokshanam that has been pending for a long time.

How to reach

Sundara Perumal Koil is located 10kms West of Kumbakonam on the Thanjavur Highway near Papanasam. Buses between Kumbakonam and Thanjavur stop near the railway level crossing at Sundara Perumal Koil. Passenger Trains stop at Sundara Perumal Koil Railway Station. The temple is about half a km from the Railway station / Gate.

When here, visit Oothukadu Kalinga Narthana Perumal Temple (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2010/05/kalinga-narthana-temple-oothukadu.html) is just over 10kms from here.

The Scenario a few decades ago

Garuda Sevai on Tamil New Year

Horse Vahana on Vijayadasami

Grand Navarathri Utsavam

Daily Food presentations to the Lord

Restoration Needs

Repairs to the Vahanams

Introduce New Electrical System

Refurbish the Temple Well

Paint the Raja Gopuram

Recreate the Nandavanam by planting sacred saplings

Appoint Full time priest and cook at a fair salary
Bring the Utsava Idol back to the temple/ Revive the Utsavams

This simple and down to earth Former Kerala LEGGIE and IOBian has made rapid strides in his umpiring career and an international debut could soon be round the corner for this down to earth man from Thiru-Ananthapuram

He will make his debut in a Ranji Final next week when he officiates at Rajkot

It was with former International Umpire S Ravi that Ananthapadmanabhan made his Ranji Umpiring debut and Ravi will be part of the umpiring team when he makes his Ranji Final debut

KN Ananthapadmanabhan, the man from the Agraharam in Thiruvananthapuram was the first Kerala player to top the milestone of 2000 runs and 200 wickets in Ranji Trophy. Through the 1990s, he consistently topped the wickets tally for his State. In just his second season in Ranji cricket, he broke into the top 5 wicket takers in domestic cricket taking 30 wickets in just 5 games and very soon for the 3^rd time in four years, Ananthapadmanabhan was among the top 10 wicket takers in the domestic circuit, quite an achievement for a leggie in a phase when strong opposition such as TN and Karnataka piled up big scores against the minnows of South India. His performances led to a place in the Irani Trophy and Wills Trophy teams in 1993 where he made immediate impact.

The 2^nd half of that decade saw some extraordinary performances - 27 wickets and topping the batting charts with 597 runs including a double hundred and then topping both batting and bowling aggregate for Kerala a couple of years later. He also had a successful outing in the Challenger trophy in 1997-98 with an impressive 5 wicket haul against India Seniors. It was a phase when he came closest to being selected for India. On the verge of national selection, Chief selector Ramakant Desai told him that it was a direct choice between Sairaj Bahutale and him and the scales tilted in favour of the former supposedly because of his better batting skills.

In March 98, Ananthapadmanabhan playing for India A prized out the scalps of Steve Waugh, Ponting and Lehmann against the touring Aussies. Within the next 12 months, he bagged a 5 wicket haul against Pakistan in front of his home fans in Kochi. However, when Kumble got his 10 wicket haul, Ananthapadmanabhan decided that it was curtains for him and his dream of playing for India was sealed as Kumble then became a permanent fixture in the team.

He played for IOB in the Madras first division league for 15 years and it was under his captaincy that IOB won (another BCCI umpire Rajesh Kannan too played under him in that glorious phase for IOB) the Palayampatti shield in the 1990s.

Towards the tail end of his career, after he had lost hopes of a national call, he got 38 wickets in the Ranji season from 7 games and helping Kerala qualify for the Elite Group. He was the first player from Kerala to play over a 100 matches and took close to 350 wickets. With a little more luck, he could have easily played for India in the 1990s.

Umpiring Ranji Final next week

KN Ananthapadmanabhan will, later this week, officiate in his first Ranji Trophy Final over a dozen years after he made his BCCI umpiring debut. In his first Ranji match as an umpire, he gave 13 decisions prompting his partner S Ravi (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2013/08/s-ravi-set-for-umpiring-test-debut.html) to remark that he was bagging wickets like he was as a bowler (Ravi will be one of his partners - 3rd Umpire - in his Ranji Final Debut as well).

Ananthapadmanabhan had in December 2016 umpired the Ranji Trophy semi final between Gujarat and Jharkhand along with JR Madanagopal (they both passed the exam in the same year). Three years ago, Ananthapadmanabhan was the 3^rd umpire in the Ranji final between Bombay and Gujarat in Pune. He has since shot up into the top 5 umpires in India but like he was during his playing days, he remains firmly grounded. 13 years and 75 first class matches into his umpiring career, he says that he is still learning and feels that staying in the present moment is very important in umpiring.

Rich experience in South Africa

Recently, in an exchange programme between the BCCI and the South African Cricket Board, Ananthapadmanabhan went to South Africa for a 3 match (first class matches) engagement, umpiring domestic cricket there officiating at Johannesburg, Capetown and Durban.

With umpire Brad White and Anish Rajan
(Chief consulate, Durban)

He views this exchange programme as a great initiative by the BCCI to send umpires overseas “It was a good experience as the 3 centers had different types of wickets. Jo’burg had pace and bounce, Capetown was more suited for batsmen and Durban assisted spinners as the match progressed.”

He worked with 3 partners who had earlier officiated in India as part of their exchange program. Ananthapadmanabhan had umpired with 2 of them in India and the matches in South Africa helped build that relationship.

The IPL Experience - 25 IPL matches todate

Ananthapadmanabhan is pleased with the progress he has made over the last few years especially the experience gained in umpiring in the IPL where he has officiated in over 20 matches onfield and been a 3^rdumpired in over 10 matches “IPL has given me a real idea of handling high pressure on a big stage standing alongside top umpires and watching the top international umpires going about the whole process.”

Breaking into the International Panel

Having got into umpiring (motivated early on by TNCA umpire Gururajan) soon after he retired from playing, Ananthapadmanabhan has reached the summit in domestic cricket and is all set to step on to the field on Monday morning ( the start of the Ranji Final). He is confident of making it into the next big stage in umpiring and sees breaking into the international panel as the next leap in his umpiring career. With the way the last few years have gone, it will be a matter of time before this once top leggie from Kerala makes it on the international stage in Umpiring.

Ananthapadmanabhan narrowly missed playing for the country. He is now moving in the right direction in his umpiring career. It is likely that the dream of umpiring on the international stage will soon become a reality for this quiet and down to earth man.

Thiruvayaru Sriram Pain Balm

Mothagam Gopalaswamy Temple

Thirunagari Thirumangai Azhvaar Utsavam

Thiruvaimur Thiruvaimurnathar Temple

Mudikondan Jawahar Bhattar

Idumbavanam Sath Guru Nathar Temple

Thillai Vilagam Kothandarama

Thiru Vathigai Veerataneswarar

Kattu Mannar Koil Annan Srinivasan Bhattar

Madurai Junction Executive Lounge

TN Ranji Cricket The Fall

Abhinav Mukund 100 Ranji Matches

Murali Bhattar Srirangam Temple Chief Priest

Thiru Vennai Nallur Kripapureeswarar

Thanjavur Big Temple Kumbhabhishekam

Periyava Vathsala Sivaswami Kalalaya

Thevaram Patshala Chidambaram

Gandhi Nagar Sports Club Cricket Ground

Sundara Perumal Koil Papanasam Restoration

Umpire Ananthapadmanabhan Ranji Final