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Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi Avathara Utsavam

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The Avathara Utsavam of the Revered Acharya of Ramanuja was celebrated over 10 days at Thiru Koshtiyur Divya Desam 

Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi was seen in a grand Nachiyar Thiru Kolam at his birthday procession around the streets of Thiru Koshtiyur on Monday ( June 3)
It is the morning of Vaikasi Rohini, the birthday of the legendary Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi, the acharya of Ramanuja and the one who is credited with initiating Thiru Mandhiram and Charama Slokam secrets in his disciple. 

While the Brahmotsavam receives attention and is well supported by devotees, the contribution of revered acharyas is often forgotten in such remote locations. In the century gone by, the entire East Street comprised of families belonging to the Nambi family. 100s of Nambi descendants lived in the vibrant agraharam.  West of the temple was where the Vadakalais lived. There was great unity in those times between the Thengalayars and Vadakalaiyars. There were also the Smarthas who lived on the Northern side of the temple. Thiru Koshtiyur was renowned for its Patshalas that taught all the four Vedas. 

However, with the passing of time the traditional families have come down to just a few. The descendants of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi led by Adyapaka Ramanuja Nambi continue to live in the Thiru Maligai on the Eastern street and the family has been trying its best to celebrate the  10 day Avathara Utsavam of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi in as traditional a way as possible at the Sowmya Narayana Perumal temple in Thiru Koshtiyur. 

Adyapaka Ramanuja Nambi had roped in prabhandham scholars from different divya desams including from Srirangam to present the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham over the 10 days of the Utsavam.

The descendants of Nambi too have the rights with respect to the Sannidhi including decorating the acharya on festive occasions. 

It is just after 7am on Monday morning (June 3). Adyapaka Ramanuja Nambi and his son Srinivasan are giving the final touches to the alankaram ofThiru Koshtiyur Nambi. At 8am,  as the screen opens in front of the Nambi Sannidhi, one finds him in a grand silk vastram with glittering jewelry.
The Sri Patham Thangis who had committed to making that morning are not to be seen leaving the Nambi descendants in a quandary. The adyapakas themselves then take it upon themselves to carry the acharya to the Sowmya Narayana Perumal for mangalasasanam. After the recital of the prabhandham verses, the huge garland adorned by Sowmya Narayana Perumal was presented to Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi in recognition of his services and for sharing the secret mantras with Ramanuja giving him a majestic princely look.

This was followed by mangalasasanam at Thirumamagal Sannidhi and Andal Sannidhi.

As is the case these days in many divya desams, especially in remote locations, shortage of and absence of Sri Patham Thangis meant that the street procession of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi was dispensed with and he had to accept a simple procession around the outer prakara. The few devotees that gathered at the temple on this sacred occasion enquired about street procession but there simply weren't enough personnel to carry the Acharya on this hot summer morning around the four big streets that would have taken well over an hour to complete.

While there are issues with carrying the Lord and acharyas in remote locations, the descendants of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi had made arrangements for adyapakas to present the 4000 sacred verses over the 10 day period. For around 90minutes, they presented in a highly devotional tone the 10th canto of Tiruvoimozhi followed by Upadesa Ratna Malai in the presence of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi and his disciple Ramanuja.

It was almost 2pm on this hot summer day in Vaikasi when the long Satru Murai concluded.  By now local residents had gathered in large numbers. Adyapaka Ramanuja, who anchored the 10 day utsavam, provided a sumptuous meal to those present at the temple much to the delight of the local residents leaving them with a happy feel. Many others who came late too were fed well by Nambi's descendants.
The evening of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi’s Thiru Nakshatram is usually the time for a grand Pushpa Pallakku street procession around the four big streets of Thiru Koshtiyur with the acharya in a Nachiyar Thiru Kolam.

However, shortage of staff as well as donors meant that this grand procession too was called off leaving Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi to make his way around the streets on a simple palanquin. However, devotees were enthralled to witness Nambi in a terrific Nachiyar Kolam alankaram decorated by the descendants of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi.

Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi's contribution
Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi, an Acharya of Ramanuja, is credited with bringing fame and spreading the name of Ramanuja to the world at large. It is also an indication of the greatness of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi that the Lord of Srirangam himself directed Ramanuja to visit Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi and secure the secret mantras from him so that can be spread to the world for the devotees to benefit.

One of the beliefs is that Lord Narayana who provided darshan as Lord Nambi in Thiru Kurungudi was born as Nam Azhvaar in the Udayanangai Kshatriya mada Nadar Kulam  (referred to as Thiru Kurungudi Piran) and that he was born as Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi also referred to as Thiru Kurugai Piran.

Ramanuja, in his 30s, visited Thiru Koshtiyur 17 occasions to meet Nambi and secured one relevant message each time. It was only on the 18th trip that he undertook by walk from Srirangam that he was initiated with the Thiru Mandhiram secret as well as the Charama Slokam.

Ramanuja gets Emberumaanar Title at Thiru Koshtiyur
Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi initiated the secret Mantra at his house on the East Street, subject to one condition that Ramanuja would not share it with anyone else and that if he failed, he would go to hell. Having learnt the Thiru Mandhiram, Ramanuja came up to the 3rd tier of the towering Sowmya Narayana Perumal temple, called out for the people and recited the Thiru Mandhiram to the world at large.

Shocked at this ‘break of promise’, Nambi questioned Ramanuja on his failure to keep up the promise and the consequence of this ‘public’ utterance. In a stunning reply, Ramanuja said ‘By sharing the Thiru Mandhiram, I alone (one person only) will go to hell but by having shared it with the world at large, several people will get Moksham.’ And hence, he was ready to go to hell.

Delighted with Ramanuja’s reply, Nambi called him ‘Ne Emperumaal Aanar’ (you have become my Lord). Hence the credit for the title of ‘Emberumaanar’ goes to Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi. It is also believed that it was with the intention of spreading the life time messages to the world and to showcasing the greatness of Ramanuja and his determination to secure the secret mantras that Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi decided on making Ramanuja visit Thiru Koshtiyur 18 times.

In memory of this episode, there are separate sannidhis for both Ramanuja and Nambi at the eastern entrance of the temple. Outside the Nambi Sannidhi is a board that contains the list of 18 messages that Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi initiated Ramanuja with.

On the third tier, on the Southern side, there is a beautifully sculpted statue of Ramanuja in a sitting posture to mark the ‘Thiru Mandhiram’ pronunciation to the world.

Nambi assigns Kidambi Aachan as Ramanuja's cook
When Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi heard that Ramanuja was on a fasting spree after being poisoned on a trip around the streets of Srirangam to collect food, he reached the banks of the Cauvery. When Ramanuja saw his acharya, he fell down in full stretch at the feet of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi in the scorching hot sun on the sands of the Cauvery. Much to everyone’s shock, Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi did not ask his disciple to get up leaving the entire body of Ramanuja burning in heat.  An angry Kidambi Aachan, a prime disciple of Ramanuja, questioned this seemingly unruly act of Nambi. Delighted at this enquiry, Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi presented the real reason for his trip to Srirangam and that Kidambi Aachan was the ideal student to take serve Ramanuja. He assigned Kidambi Aachan as the cook to serve food to Ramanuja from that day.

His own son as Ramanuja's disciple
Later, Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi also assigned his son Therkaazhvaan as a student of Ramanuja to be initiated under him.  Thus his own son became the disciple of his disciple for he considered Ramanuja as the greatest Vaishnavite Acharya.
  
The Bottomline
While the programme schedule pasted on the walls of the temple under the signature of Severkudiyan, the EO of the Sivaganga Samasthanam administered temple, indicated a big street procession in the morning and a Pushpa Pallakku procession in the evening on the occasion of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi's birthday, the EO was not present on this sacred occasion to celebrate the birthday of the acharya of Ramanuja, such is the scant respect provided to a revered acharya by the Sivaganga Samasthanam. It is the temple administrators who role it is to ensure that Sri Patham Thangis are present in sufficient numbers for the procession and also ensure the orderly conduct of the Utsavam in a manner as per the official announcement. 

However almost everything is left in the hands of the descendants of Nambi, as far as this Utsavam is concerned - to secure the donors, the Sri Patham, the flower garlands, among other things.

Slow renovation efforts
Renovation efforts too are going at a snail’s pace at the temple. The initiative of the golden vimanam had begun almost 15 years ago but nothing has progressed on that front leaving devotees to wonder as to why that can’t be deferred to a future period if the Samasthanam is not keen on the Golden Vimanam at the moment. The Shiva Sannidhi that had been dug up a few years ago continues to be closed. 

One of the devotees who turned up on the morning of the Nambi's avathara utsavam and wanted to perform an archanai at the Shiva Sannidhi was informed that it was closed and darshan was not possible. This has been the state for a few years now at the Shiva Sannidhi and many other sannidhis at the temple that have been under ‘balalayam’.
The only saving grace of the utsavam was that the descendants of Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi  seem to continue to serve their forefathers with devotion presenting the sacred verses each day of the avathara utsavam wanting to do their best in conducting the utsavam in as traditional a way as it once was. They are also looking to renovate Thiru Koshtiyur Nambi's historical Thiru Maligai and are hoping that the disciples residing worldwide would come forward and support the rebuilding initiative.

The temple is open from 7.30 am –12.30 pm and 5 pm-8 pm

How to reach 
Thiru Koshtiyur is 8 kms South West of Tirupattur, 25 kms North of Sivaganga and about 30 kms West of Karaikudi. Buses ply every 10-15 minutes between Tiruppatur and Sivaganga

Direct trains ply every evening from Chennai Egmore to Sivaganga.

Thiru Gnana Sambandar Mukthi Utsavam Achalpuram

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The Legendary Episode of Thiru Gnana Sambandar's Wedding on Vaikasi Kettai and his attaining Mukthi the very next morning on Moolam was played out in front of 1000s of devotees at Achalpuram

It is believed that entire temple town attained Mukthi that morning along with Thiru Gnana Sambandar and his wife
It was a festival to showcase the devotional commitment of the great Saivite Saint Poet Thiru Gnana Sambandar. The series of events in the life of young Thiru Gnana Sambandar is a great lesson to the devotees that sincere surrender to the Lord leads one to reach Him faster. If one invoked the blessings of the Lord with utmost sincerity and sought to reach Him, it is likely that the devotee will be shown the right path to attain Mukthi. In his specific case, the Lord was so moved by the devotion that He accepted the Saint Poet’s longing to be with Him and on the same night of his wedding provided Mukthi, not just to the Saint Poet and his newly married wife but to every single resident in the temple town of Achalpuram.

His 7thand Final Trip
Thiru Gnana Sambandar made frequent trips to different locations singing praise of the Lord in several temples before returning to Sirkazhi. It was during his 7th and what turned out to be the final trip that he reached Achalpuram. He sang the last of his verses on the Lord of Achalpuram. Referring to the Lord as Nallur Perumaan, he introduces himself as one from Sirkazhi and assures the devotees that those who offer their sincere prayers to the Lord at Achalpuram are sure to be liberated from their sins and attain Mukthi.   

The Legendary Episode of Mukthi
Ever lost in his thoughts of the Lord, Thiru Gnana Sambandar was disinterested in marriage but his father Shiva Paatha Iravayar suggested to him that the world would blame the parents for not finding the right match for their son. Accepting this emotional reasoning, he reluctantly agreed but his mind continued to be focused on reaching the Lord. The wedding formalities were performed at Achalpuram and he tied the knot to Poornaambigai, the daughter of Nambandar Nambi Embar, who belonged to this place. In memory of this episode, Thiru Gnana Sambandhar is seen in a separate sannidhi along with his wife in a wedding posture.

As he took his wife around the sacred fire, he received the message from Lord Thyagesar, who showed him the Shiva Logam signifying that his time had come. Soon after, a delighted Thiru Gnana Sambandar, along with his newly married wife, merged with the Lord here at this temple.

When the residents ran away seeing the huge fire behind Lord Thyagesar he asked Nandi to educate them on the importance of the true devotion of Thiru Gnana Sambandar. All the devotees were directed to bathe in the Panchakshara Theertham opposite the temple, following which they were enlightened and in the rarest of rare happening, every single resident of Achalpuram is believed to have attained Mukthi immediately after this legendary episode.

The sequence of the sacred thread ceremony of Gnana Sambandar, the entire wedding festivities, his final procession around the streets of Achalpuram and finally his merging with the Lord on the night of his wedding was played out in the most traditional way at the Shiva Loga Thyagesa temple in Achalpuram on Vaikasi Moolam on Tuesday (May 21).

   
Sacred Thread Ceremony of Bachelor Sambandar
The morning began with the sacred thread ceremony of bachelor boy Gnana Sambandar. Ahead of the event, Othuvar Swaminathan Desikar who had come all the way from Karur presented the life story and contribution of Thiru Gnana Sambandar in the form of a musical kutcheri. 
Following this, for one and a half hours starting 10.30am, the thread ceremony was performed in a traditional way ending with the three sacred strands of the thread that included ones in Gold and Silver, placed across the chest of Gnana Sambandar. The young boy went on a one hour procession around the streets of Achalpuram including the long agraharam before resting for a few hours at his historical house north of the temple.

Playing out a traditional Brahmin Wedding
By 8pm, several thousands of devotees had gathered from across the state to witness the wedding of Thiru Gnana Sambandar with Poornambigai. 
A special feature of the evening’s proceedings was the fact that the entire formalities of a traditional Brahmin wedding was played out in the outer prakaram. This included mappillai azhaippu, exchanging of garlands between the bride and the bridegroom and the oonjal activities, before the bride and bridegroom sat for the wedding at the grand stage created for the occasion. 
Merging with the Lord
Just after 2am, the newly married couple went around the streets of Achalpuram for the first and only time. Sharp at 4am, the Dikshithars from Chidambaram recited the sacred verses of Thiru Gnana Sambandar. Soon after the devotees in thousands saw a huge fire at the Moolavar Sannidhi and in a dramatic devotional moment, the great poet along with his wife entered the fire and merged with the Lord bringing to end the Vaikasi Moolam Utsavam that brought to life the legendary episode of Thiru Gnana Sambandar attaining Mukthi.

The Alankaram Expert from Kondal, Sirkazhi

Babu Gurukal has been performing pooja at the Kondal Murugan temple, near Sirkazhi for 30 years. His father had been an alankaram expert for six decades. Babu Gurukal was specifically roped from Kondal  for three different alankarams- first Gnana Sambandar as a bachelor boy for the sacred thread ceremony in the morning. 
Later in the evening, he decorated the bride in a simple style for the Mappilai Azhaippu. Finally, the alankaram that gave him a great sense of satisfaction- Thiru Gnana Sambandar and Poornambigai in a grand wedding attire decked with 1kg of Golden jewelry and silk vastrams, one that took him close to two hours. The alankaram also included presenting the scented Shenbagam garland and cardamom garland.

Achalpuram is located 5kms east of Kollidam on the Northern Banks of the Cauvery. The temple is open from 630am-12noon and 430pm-8pm.

Uthamar Koil Varadaraja Bhattar

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Having begun service at the temple as a teenager in the 1960s, 75 year old Varadaraja Bhattar is still awaiting his pension, 15 years after his official retirement
At this ancient temple renowned for the Tri-Murthies Procession on Thiru Karthigai, the priest started with a monthly salary of Rs. 25 and retired four decades later at a salary of Rs. 60 per month
                     
In his Periya Thirumozhi praise, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar referred to Lords from four different temples in a single verse. Out of these, he has anointed the Lord of Uthamar Koil as the Perfect One calling him as the Uthaman of Karambanur.

பேராணைகுறுங்குடிஎம்பெருமானை
 திருத்தங்காள்ஊரானை
கரம்பணுர்உத்தமனை

But it is not all so perfect at the moment at this ancient Divya Desam whose legend relates to Lord Shiva reaching here in a bid to find salvation from Brahmma’s curse. It was here at Uthamar Koil that Goddess Lakshmi herself filled the vessel with food thus ending Shiva’s hunger. He found salvation from the curse finally at Kandiyur Divya Desam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2007/04/108-divya-desam-kandiyur.html).

75 year old Varadaraja Bhattar has been at the Divya Desam serving the Lord and Thaayar for almost six decades now. He has seen through the highs and lows during this period of time. He came here as a young 6 year old boy after his father Satyamurthi Bhattar acceded to the request from his relatives at Uthamar Koil to move here from their hereditary archaka service at Thiru Meiyam Divya Desam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/03/thiru-meiyam-divya-desam.html).  Satyamurthi Bhattar was a popular priest at Thiru Meiyam and devotees specifically visited the temple while he was on duty (7 days in a month).  Pudukottai Rai Bahadur Krishnamachiariar was one such devotee who was particularly fond of Satyamurthy Bhattar’s sweet rendition of the archanai.

No money to pay school fees in Srirangam
His father passed away when Varadaraja Bhattar was not yet 20. He had studied only till class 8, for his father did not have the financial wherewithal to send him to school at Srirangam. The school fees in Srirangam was just Seven Rupees Fifty Paise (Rs. 7/50) but the salary at the temple and income from Thattu Kaasu was just not enough to give his father the financial strength to send his son to high school education in Srirangam.

Instead his father sent him to learn agama from Valadi Ramakrishnan Bhattar and  Rama Jada Varadan at Uthamar Koil. He began his service at this Divya Desam at the age of 18 in the early 1960s at a monthly salary of Rs. 25. He would also be given three Kalam of Paddy.

In those decades, this was not an easily accessible Divya Desam being on the Northern Banks of Coloroon. There were very few devotees who would visit the temple in the 1960s. Varadaraja Bhattar would sit at the entrance of the Sannidhi waiting for the devotees so he could present the legend of the temple to them but most of the time they remained elusive. On the peak days, there would be a maximum of 10 devotees.  He would get a maximum of Rs. 3 as Thattu Kaasu. In those days, his eyes would light up when he saw a 25 paise coin for even that was a rare occurrence. It was a financially challenging couple of decades for Varadaraja Bhattar and his family. 
A special feature in those decades at Uthamar Koil was that this was the location for Weddings. Even those from Srirangam organised their wedding at Uthamar Koil.Once in 1965, 95 weddings took place on a single day at this Divya Desam. Of course, the priests did not benefit financially from these weddings as it was usually a very simple ceremony. Following the wedding, meals was organised at the surrounding huge mango groves, which is where the crowds gathered.

No share in archanai tickets
Historically, the archakas were paid Rs. 2 for every archana ticket but with HR & CE gaining dominance in TN temples, this has come to be stopped in recent decades with the HR & CE coughing up the entire income from archanai tickets. In fact, at a financially weak moment, the HR & CE took it from the service personnel at the temple that they would not demand any share from HR & CE’s income at the temple. Unfortunately, this  had a negative impact on the Sirpanthigals who became even weaker, financially.

Four Delicious Meals a day turns into simple white rice now
Till the 1960s and 70s,  the Lord was fed a sumptuous meal through the day with high quality Ghee Pongal in the morning, Curd Rice for Lunch, Vadai in the evening and Aravanai as the final meal of the day. With HR & CE ‘s power increasing across temples, the authorities cut off the menu for the Lord completely a few decades ago, even though the temple owns over a 100 acres of land.

In recent decades, the Lord is only presented with rice!!! And the delicacies have become a thing of the past at this divya desam. As with most other temples, there is very little income accruing to the temple from the lands owned by them.

After his father’s death, Varadaraja Bhattar performed pooja at four other temples nearby for some additional income to help sustain his family.  It was the income from these temples that helped him buy new clothes for his family every Deepavali. As with many priests across remote Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu, Varadaraja Bhattar went through turbulent times between the 1960s and 80s. His entire youth was spent waiting for the devotee and some thattu kaasu that he could take back home.

With Guru Peyarchi and the belief in its related positive financial transformation for devotees led to a sudden influx of devotees from the 1990s at the temple. The Brahmma and Saraswathi Sannidhi gained prominence and devotees have been thronging these two Sannidhis of late.

Gets Rs. 35 more per month after 43 years
After four decades of performing pooja, Varadaraja Bhattar retired officially about 15 years ago at a monthly salary of Rs. 60 that is an increase of Rs. 35 over a period of almost 43 years handing over the reins to his eldest son. Since his retirement, he continues to visit the temple every day and perform service at the temple.

His mantra over a six decade has remained consistent and is symbolic of the life style of many of the bhattars from that period. A contented lifestyle, spending well with the means, looking at service to Lord as an opportunity of a life time is the way he has spent life and that is the reason even to this day devotees, young and old alike, look up to his archanai especially at the Thaayar Sannidhi and seek his blessings. 

At the age of 75, he continues to present the legend of the temple to every single devotee almost making a specific reference to Lord Shiva in each of his presentations (the Bikshandar Sannidhi is just behind the Thaayar Sannidhi at this Divya Desam).

His 4th Samprokshanam at the temple next month
Early next month, he would be overseeing the much delayed Samprokshanam at this Divya Desam, the fourth in his lifetime. That remains one of his happiest memories from his service at the temple – to be able to have the opportunity to perform four Samprokshanams in a single Divya Desam. The popular garment house of Saradas has been supporting the renovation activities over the last five decades ever since the time of his father.

In Thiru Meiyam Divya Desam, there were utsavams all through the year when he was a young boy. Here at Uthamar Koil, historically, there have been only 13 days of street processions, including 11 during the annual Brahmotsavam.

In a festival to celebrate the presence of the ‘Tri Murthies’ in a single Divya Desam, on the occasion of Thiru Karthigai, Brahmma, Shiva and Vishnu come out together on a procession providing a joint darshan to devotees around the four Mada Streets of Uthamar Koil in Thiru Karambanur on the Northern banks of Coloroon near Srirangam, the only such combined display of the Tri Murthies at a Divya Desam. 

No Pension 15 years after retirement
Even though it is 15 years since his retirement, Varadaraja Bhattar has still not got his pension with the HR & CE not having initiated action. Of course, it is not an isolated case for the Sthalathar Kulothuma Dasar at Thiru Kannapuram Divya Desam (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/11/thiru-kannapuram-divya-desam.html)  has not received his pension two decades after his retirement.

Only one of the sons has been provided the official employment as the priest at the Divya Desam. 35 year old Venkatesan Bhattar, who supports his elder brother,  is philosophical about the way temple worship has turned in recent times “Devotees no more have patience even with the Lord. Even as they enter this temple their mind is already on their next destination. They grow impatient when the screen is on even for ten minutes for an alankaram or a thaligai. But that is the general trend everywhere and temple is no different.”
 "Everyone eats well, three times a day. But we are not bothered about leaving the Lord hungry each day of the year. This Divya Desam was once renowned for the quality of the Thaligai. It is said that even those from Srirangam would visit this temple to taste the Thaligai. But now, the Lord is presented just a simple plain rice every day, while all of us continue to enjoy different varieties of food at home and outside." 

There is clear move towards attaining financial glory in the minds of everyone and people in all walks of life are pursuing a goal in that direction. He finds the hurried nature of the devotees as a disturbing trend “When I supported my father as a young boy in the 1990s, I found the few devotees who came this way spending some time at the temple understanding the legend and its historical importance. But of late, the tide has turned towards Brahmma driven by Guru Peyarchi and what it could do to a devotee’s financial growth. This has been endorsed by the clear reduction in devotee crowd in the last 3 ½ years after the Balalayam of the Brahmma and Saraswathi sannidhi.” 
The delayed renovation activities and the closure of few of the sannidhis has meant that the devotees have stayed away from the temple in recent years causing a severe dent in the finances of the priests. It is hoped that if the Samprokshanam takes place as planned in the 2nd week of July, the crowd would start making their way back to the temple later this year, especially to seek the blessings of Brahmma.

Varadaraja Bhattar though has absolutely no regrets in life. The non receipt of a single rupee by way of pension does not bother him. Neither does the lack of a big salary in his life time. After six decades of service, the devotees look up to him and reach out to him for his archanai and blessings. They see his happy face as a sign of prosperity for them.

On his part, Varadaraja Bhattar is happy that he has been able to marry off his sons and daughters and  been able to provide them with a roof over their heads. Financially things have turned around for the family in recent decades following the devotional wave in the state. 

More than anything else, he believes in the Lord of Karambanur and to this day, continues to perform service in the same devotional way like he did when he began all those decades ago as a young teenager.

The temple is open from 6am – 12.30pm and 4pm – 830pm

How to reach Uthamar Koil
Uthamar Koil is located about 2kms North of the Ranganathaswamy temple in Srirangam on the Northern banks of Coloroon on the Trichy-Salem highway. Auto from Srirangam will cost Rs. 100. By bus, one can get down at Toll Gate and walk 10 minutes to reach the Divya Desam.

Nava Tirupathi Garuda Sevai

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Thousands of devotees stay through the night to witness the Traditional Nava Tirupathi Garuda Sevai at Azhvaar Tirunagari

Former IT Staffer and Srirangam Madapalli service person now moves to Azhvaar Tirunagari performing selfless service at this Divya Desam

Bhagavathas present Bhajans through the night around the streets of Thiru Kurugur
NamAzhvaar
It is just after 5am on Monday morning. As one stands outside the Eastern entrance of the Polintha Ninra Piran Aathi Nathan temple in Azhvaar Tirunagari, there is a pleasant surprise. Lakshmi Narasimhan, former IT professional who quit the Srirangam Madapalli (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/07/srirangam-madapalli-transformation.html) within 9 months of joining is seen with a heavy Kudam on his shoulder carrying sacred water for the morning Vishwaroopam. Later in the day, he is seen carrying the sacred food on his head during various events that unfold as part of the 9 Garuda Sevai in Nava Tirupathi as part of the 5th day celebrations of the Nam Azhvaar Utsavam. As he goes about his service, one is reminded of his commitment and devotion that he displayed at the Ranganathaswamy Swami temple in Srirangam.
Traditional in his attire and even more traditional in the way he carried out his service to the Lord showcased how service personnel should conduct themselves in front of the Lord.  The unanswered question remains as to how such a devoted person quit the Srirangam Temple / was allowed to let go by the temple authorities in Srirangam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/11/lakshmi-narasimhan-quits-srirangam.html).

The temple personnel at the Aathi Nathan Divya Desam point out that starting from the Ramanuja Utsavam last month, he has been at the temple providing various kinds of services in a quiet way. He rarely talks with people. He eats only the sacred food and that in very limited quantity. He probably bathes in the Tamaraibarani and he even sleeps in the space available in the Nandavanam.

He has generally won the admiration of the service personnel at the temple for his devotional service.

With the Vaikasi utsavam being celebrated this time in the first fortnight of June, the fifth day utsavam co-incided with the onset of the South West monsoon. The thick early morning clouds and the light rains meant that each of the Nava Tirupathi Lords had to wait it out at different locations before making their entry into Azhvaar Tirunagari.
By 6am, the temple wore a noisy look with highly devoted Telugu Bhagavathas from Andhra presenting themselves in large numbers for the Utsavam. After the daily morning rituals at the Azhvaar Sannidhi, Nam Azhvaar was decorated in a grand alankaram. At 10am after the Thodakkam of Tiruviruttam, the 5th day Iyarpa Paasurams,  Namazhvaar positioned himself at the mandapam at the Eastern Entrance of the temple to welcome each of the Nava Tirupathi Lords.
As per the protocol, the message was sent out to the Jeer Mutt at the West end of Azhvaar Tirunagari that Nam Azhvaar was waiting to receive the First Three Lords. Kallarpiran from Sri Vaikuntam, Em Idar Kadivaan from Natham Varagunamangai and Kaisina Venthar from Thiru Pulingudi began their trip from the North Car Street one behind the other with the Sri Patham having to adjust to the heavy morning traffic, this now also being the Tirunelveli- Tiruchendur Highway.

Mangalasasanam of the Nava Tirupathi Lords
It is past 11am when the first three Lords reach the temple entrance to a rapturous welcome from the several hundreds of devotees who have been there for an hour to listen to the mangalasasanam by Araiyar Natha Muni of Nam Azhvaar’s Tiruvoimozhi verses on these three Lords. For the next 90 minutes, Parthasarathy Bhattar of Madhava Perumal Temple in Mylapore provides a running commentary on the specifics of the event as one Lord after another are welcomed by Nam Azhvaar.

It is close to 1pm when the mangalasasanam of the visiting Nava Tirupathi Lords is complete and each of them have made their way into the temple and positioned themselves in their respective locations allocated for them.
Led by the Ghosti that rendered the Tiruviruttam verses, Nam Azhvaar provided darshan around the 8 streets of Azhvaar Tirunagari for the next hour including having a stopover at the Uthiradi Mutt.The events of the morning ended with the Tiruviruttam Satru Murai in front of the temple leaving everyone with a couple of hours of rest after a hectic programme in the first half.
As the evening dawns, the entire Sannidhi Street wears a historical festive look with stalls lined up through the entire street (many of them food stalls selling non-traditional food varieties in line with the modern trend).

Simultaneous Thirumanjanam of the visiting Nava Tirupathi Lords was the highlight of the evening with devotees taking vantage positions to watch the sacred bath of their favourite Lord. 

Devotional Prabhandham Ghosti
At the eastern entrance of the temple where Nam Azhvaar had taken position through the 2nd half, a large contingent of prabhandham scholars present a loud and devotional rendering of the fifth canto of Tiruvoimozhi giving us a glimpse of how things would have in the centuries gone by in this ancient Divya Desam. Particularly impressive was Elayavalli Srinidhi who for an hour gave it his utmost presenting the verses in full high pitch ( one could hear his differentiated voice far away)  almost bringing tears in the eyes of the devotees who listened to the recital.

Garuda Sevai Alankaram
 The next couple of hours served as the time for the alankaram of the Divya Desam Lords for the Garuda Sevai Purapadu. Each of the teams worked on showcasing their Lord as the best. However, in the process a few of them also took to modern alankarams. Tradition has it that on the night each of the visiting Divya Desam Lords has to be decorated in the Raja Alankaram providing darshan to the Azhvaar who was seen in a welcoming posture with a Kanniunnd Siritha ambu maalai and with a Kaalimaaran Kondai

The Raja alankaram involves the Lord placing one hand on his knees and holding a parrot in the other hand. But in the process to impress the audience, alankarams of Lords from Perungulum, Erettai Tirupathi were seen with rose garlands, fruits elakkai garland, LED blinking bulbs much against the tradition that left the traditionalists disappointed at the turn of events.

Only Lords from Thenthiruperai and Srivaikuntam were seen exclusively with only traditional flowers such as Arali, Mallipoo and Vritchi garlands. Soon after 11pm when the screens opened, devotees went from one Lord to another around watching the different alankarams.
                   Nigaril Mugil Vannan
Most of them gave the top position to the Nigaril Mugil Vannan, the Lord from Thenthiruperai who had the most traditional of and the grandest of flower garlands.

An apple and orange garland for Mayakoothan the Lord of Perungulum seemed a bit of place at this traditional festival but that has come to be the norm in many temples with un-traditional ways of alankaram to please the devotees and to showcase how one is different from the other.
Through the night procession
It was well past 1am when the big door opened at the Eastern Entrance for the last of the Lords, Vaitha Maa Nidhi from Thiru Kolur to make his way out of the temple for the night long Garuda Sevai procession around the 8 streets of Thiru Kurugur. Right from 10pm, the bhagavathas who had congregated at the temple from across the state and from Andhra presented bhajans in different groups sitting on the sacred streets. The residents sat with in front of their respective homes waiting with their presentation for the Lord. Finally just after 1.30am, Polintha Ninra Piraan led the way with Nam Azhvaar on Anna Pakshi Vahana following the Lord from Azhvaar Tirunagiri. For the next 5 hours, the Lords from Nava Tirupathi along with NamAzhvaar and Madura Kavi Azhvaar provided darshan to the devotees of Thiru Kurugur.

Devotees presented the Service Personnel with juices and milk to energise the Sripatham in their night effort. A disheartening feature in the Divya Desam in this region is that unmindful of the difficulties of the Sri Patham, the carriers of the Lord, it has become customary for every resident in the 8 big streets to present their offerings to each of the Lords only in front of their homes. This has necessitated stoppages at every single house during the procession. One really wonders as to why 3-4 of the traditional residents cannot offer their presentations in front of their neighbours' home and why they expect the Lord to stop right in front of their homes. This meant that the Lord stopped in front of every single home through the 5 hour procession making it even more tedious for the Sripatham. It was commendable of them that no one seemed to be complaining.

As the Lords made their way on to the North Car street, now also the Tiruchendur highway,  a few of the support service personnel from some of these temples showcased their power. With the clock ticking past 4am, the first set of buses carrying devotees to Tiruchendur made their way to Azhvaar Tirunagari. However, with the service personnel refused to allow these public transport buses to move ahead as the Lord was carried right in the middle of the road. Each of the stopovers too were less to the left leaving the big vehicles no option but to wait it out. When it was brought to the notice of the support staff of these temples, pat came the reply that the 'buses can wait'. The so called traditional residents of the street who only few hours earlier had recited the Divya Prabhandham too did not deem it fit to present their offerings from the road side and in each of the homes, they too stood right in the middle  of the road preventing vehicles from moving past. It is time that these traditionalists understood devotion in its true spirit. It seemed to the onlookers that this night belonged to them and that no one could ride past the Lord on the night.
Namazhvaar bids Farewell 
Just after 6am on Tuesday morning, Vaitha Maa Nidhi Perumal made his way to the eastern entrance where the prabhandham scholars were waiting for the rendering of the sacred verses bringing to end the Garuda Sevai procession. For the next 45 minutes, the archakas from the respective temples began winding down as the Lord shifted from the Garuda Sevai alankaram onto the simple palanquin for their return trip back to their divya desams.

As with the previous morning, when Nam Azhvaar waited at the entrance to welcome each of the Divya Desam Lords, he stayed this Tuesday morning to send off each of them after a rendering of the sacred verses relating to each of these Divya Desams. A highlight of this farewell event is that for Devarpiran alone, the Lord from Rettai Tirupathi, who the Azhvaar saw and praised as his own father and mother, he stayed a while longer till the time the Lord reached the far eastern corner of Azhvaar Tirunagari as a mark of an additional respect for his parents.

By 9am, there was a certain quietness about this Divya Desam. The stalls were gone. People got down to their daily routines. It had been a long 30 hour 5th day festival the grandest of the utsavams in the Nava Tirupathi region. Most of the archakas had had very little sleep over the last day and a half beginning with the pre trip alankaram at their respective Divya Desams on late Sunday night.

The role of HR & CE
The entire Nava Tirupathi Divya Desams is administered by the HR & CE. However, as with thousands of other temples across Tamil Nadu, they played a minimal role in terms of financial outlay for this biggest festival of Nava Tirupathi. The Sripatham for this Garuda Sevai festival alone cost upwards of Rs. 30000 for each of the visiting Divya Desams. The flower decoration for the festival cost at least another 30000 or so. In addition, there were Thaligai presentations to be made during the day and ahead of the purapadu. With the HR & CE not being able to take care of these expenses, they even suggested to pull out of the participation. And then at the last moment, as has been the case in recent times, it was left to the archakas of the Divya Desams to look out for donors to support the utsavam.
                     Devapiran, Rettai Tirupathi

Without exception it has now come to be that the HR & CE will grab every income opportunity at the temple but will not take responsibility for any expense at the temple festivals. And as was the case this year, they are comfortable with the Lords not making the temple to Azhvaar Tirunagari under the pretext that there weren’t donors to fund the festival and that the temple on its own did not have the financial wherewithal to run the festival trip.  The archakas had to use their ‘relationships’ with devotees to fund the festival to ensure that the Lords made the trip to Thiru Kurugur but clearly the lack of initiative and participation from the HR & CE has to be questioned.  Even the food arrangements for the 1000s of devotees who made the trip for the Garuda Sevai darshan came from the locals – either through the Mutts or the residents with the HR & CE not playing a role in feeding the visiting devotees.

Parthasarathy Koil Narasimha Swamy Garuda Sevai

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In a rare occurence, NamAzhvaar has Garuda Sevai darshan of Narasimha Swamy on the occasion of his Avathara Utsavam that coincided with the 3rd day of the Brahmotsavam
A death in one of the sacred streets of Thiruvallikeni just ahead of the Simha Vahana procession on the 2nd evening of the Narasimha Swamy Brahmotsavam took the service personnel  and the temple staff off guard. Historically, it has been the tradition in the agraharams of Divya Desam that any untoward incidents will be cleared off within the first Naazhigai – 2 ½ hours.

Agama expert and one of the leading Bhattars in Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu Vasan Bhattar of Therazhundur says that there has been historical documentation in the  Aamaruviappan Divya Desam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/10/therazhundur-divya-desam.html) that has all its residents as signatories wherein the residents have undertaken to clear any obstructions to the Lord’s procession within a couple of hours so as to allow the Lord to pass.  

He says that even the period of an hour and a half is only for the ‘sacred’ activities to be performed after death and scriptures record it that anything after this sacred period, the ‘dead’ body becomes equivalent to that of a dog that lies dead and unattended on the street. Hence, it is the duty of the resident to complete all the sacred formalities within the first couple of hours of death and clear obstructions that will then pave the way for the Lord to go around the streets on the pre slated procession including during the Brahmotsavam. 
In fact for specific lagnam based events such as dwajarohanam and chariot procession, even such untoward events should not stop the pre fixed schedule and the Lord’s events should take place as planned says Vasan Bhattar.

Changing Times and its impact
This was largely followed till a few decades ago in almost all Divya Desams. However, times have changed and the new generation on the back of an anti brahminical wave from the 1960s and 70s (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/09/thenthiruperai-divya-desam.html) have made their way to the West seeking greener pastures in the corporate world. Given this completely changed scenario, even the once most traditional of residents are playing it tough now and making the Lord wait beyond the once acceptable time for clearing such obstructions reasoning that the descendants have to make their way for the event from other destinations.

In the past, the families stayed together in the agraharam, the service personnel to conduct the activities were also residing in the same area and hence it was possible to finish within the stipulated time. And hence rarely did a procession get delayed for such reasons.

However, things have changed dramatically. For example, at the Thiruvallikeni Divya Desam, the streets on which the Lord makes his procession is now full of shops, eat outs and towering apartments in many cases taller than the Vimanam of the temple. There are big cars parked on the Mada and Car streets that many times affect the easy movement of the Lord.  And in many cases these belong to the traditionalists living in these streets ( Last night just after 11pm, one of the former staffers at the  temple Madapalli, in a moment of anger, removed the air from couple of tyres of a car parked opposite the Rama Sannidhi in the  presence of the Police personnel).

Following the death, there were differing views amongst the service personnel and devotees. There were those who wanted to protest as a group demanding the quick removal of the body where as the devotees were a little apprehensive on the rights of the temple considering the sensitivities involved with this.

While much has changed in the decades gone by in terms of the lifestyle of the traditionalists at the temples in Tamil Nadu, it still remains within the powers of the temple to force a clearance of obstructions on the streets where the Lord makes his way on a procession for that is the unwritten  (in some cases even a written undertaking as seen in Therazhundur Divya Desam) code of conduct that the residents agreed to abide by once upon a time in the sacred streets of Divya Desam. Today they are talking a different language forgetting the historical reasons of having taken up residence in these streets and standing firm on such occasions.

Spotlight turns on the Azhvaar 
As it turned out, the Simha Vahanam procession had to be cancelled on the 2nd evening of the Brahmotsavam as was the popular Garuda Sevai on the 3rd morning as the resident did not agree to clear till the next morning. The devotees also discussed amongst themselves that this was a way for the greatest of the Azhvaars, NamAzhvaar to show his power,  for the 3rd day of the Brahmotsavam also co-incided with the annual avathara nakshatram of the Azhvaar.

And thus the focus on most of the 3rd day of the Brahmotsavam remained with NamAzhvaar with the devotee crowd gathering in large numbers to listen to the Prabhandham recital of the verses of the Azhvaar – Tiruviruttam, Tiruvasaryam and Periya Thiruvanthathi in addition to the 10thCanto of Tiruvoimozhi.

A Rare Occurence - Azhvaar has Garuda Sevai darshan
Also, the delayed clearance on the previous evening led to another unique feature. For the first time, NamAzhvaar had a Garuda Sevai darshan on the occasion his Avathara Utsavam. As the Garuda Sevai procession at the Brahmotsavam features in the morning and the NamAzhvaar Avathara Utsavam procession takes place in the evening, it is rare for NamAzhvaar to have Garuda Sevai darshan of the Lord of Thiruvallikeni. 
                                          

With the morning Garuda Sevai postponed on the third day (Saturday June 15) of the Brahmotsavam to 4.30 pm and with the Satru Murai of NamAzhvaar having been completed just an hour earlier, it provided an opportunity for NamAzhvaar to have this rare Garuda Sevai darshan of Narasimha Swamy at the Parthasarathy Perumal Divya Desam last evening.

Word was sent around to the devotees from across the city who usually gather in front of the Narasimha Swamy Raja Gopuram from 430 am on the occasion of the third day of the Brahmotsavam about the postponement of the Garuda Sevai to evening. And thus a huge crowd gathered around 4pm with each of the devotees wanting to take a vantage position for a first glimpse of the Lord on the Garuda Vahanam.

Shortly after, Namazhvaar made his way around Narasimha Swamy and positioned himself in front of the Lord to listen to the Moonram Thiruvanthathi recital of the Prabhandham Scholars of Thiruvallikeni

The other debate of the day was whether ‘Eysel’, a prominent event of Garuda Sevai would take place.  While the offerings to the Lord on the street procession was done away with, much to the delight of the devotees Eysel was presented as per the original schedule. It was around 7pm that the Lord returned to his abode through the Western Entrance of the Parthasarathy Koil.

Devotional Commitment of Sri Patham and Prabhandham Ghosti
For the over 100+ Sri Patham Thangis, there was very little time to rest for they had to come back within the next couple of hours to carry the Lord on the Hamsa Vahanam procession that was slated for the 3rdevening of the Brahmotsavam. It was commendable on the part of the traditional Sri Patham (one that has come to be almost non-existent in most of the Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu) to carry the Lord for over two hours again from 10pm having just undertaken a 2 ½ hour procession from 4.30 pm but they carried out the task with utmost devotion ( they were also back this morning at 6am for the Surya Prabhai procession after just a few hours of sleep on Saturday night).

And when the Lord on the Hamsa Vahanam came to rest at the Vahana Mandapam, it was well past midnight. 


The Prabhandham and Vedic scholars too had had a very long day having begun the day just around 10am with the postponed procession relating to the 2nd evening that was followed by Thirumanjanam for Lord Narasimha and Namazhvaar. The extended recital of Namazhvaar’s verses on the occasion of his Avathara Utsavam took almost three hours on this last day of Vaikasi. And then they were back at it in the evening for the two long Vahana processions. 
The two differentiating features of this Divya Desam continues to be the traditional way the Lord is carried, with the extraordinary commitment of the Sri Patham Thangis  like the ones in Srirangam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/12/sri-patham-thangis-srirangam.html) and the Prabhandham Ghosti who are seen in large numbers through the entire Brahmotsavam to present the 4000 verses over the 10 days of the festival (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/07/thiruvallikeni-prabhandham-ghosti.html). 

It was also touching to see the leader of the Prabhandham Ghosti, MA Venkatakrishnan, unmindful of the injury to his leg, standing for over three hours in the afternoon presenting the verses of NamAzhvaar on the occasion of his Avathara Thiru Nakshatram, such is the commitment of the Ghosti at Thiruvallikeni ( http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/05/ma-venkatakrishnan-thiruvallikeni-divya_16.html).

PHOTO COURTESY: SHRI THIRUMALAI VINJIMOOR VENKATESH 

Ameena Seshadri Parthasarathy Koil

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For over 25 years, his has been a voice that a devotee to the Parthasarathy Perumal Divya Desam in Thiruvallikeni could hardly have missed

The man responsible for the timely conduct of temple services and utsavams and one who has seen and overcome several challenges during his time at the temple has one unfulfilled dream – that of serving Lord Ranganatha of Srirangam as the Maniyakaarar
Sholavaram (Pettai) Ranganathan was keen that his son Seshadri take up to auditing but the young mind was destined to spend a major part of his life serving the Lord in an ancient Divya Desam. The boy who schooled at National Boys School, Triplicane quit academics at the age of 13 and with a traditional tuft and a dhoti moved to the Avathara Sthalam of Vaishnavite Saint Ramanjua at Sriperambudur (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/05/ramanuja-avathara-utsavam-sriperambudur.html) to serve at the Madapalli there. Subsequently, for a couple of years, he stayed in the house of his great grandmother Kooram Pattamma at Pettai, a period when there was no electric lights at the house, and performed Madapalli service at Thirumazhisai (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2012/02/jagannatha-perumal-temple-thirumazhisai.html), Sriperambudur and at the Mudhaliandan temple in Nazratpettai.

Venkidi's Transformational Change at Kanchi
It was while he was performing service at the Adhi Kesava Perumal temple in Sriperambudur that he caught the eye of Koil Annan Kanthadai Kumara Venkatachar, a descendant of Mudhaliandan, the first disciple of Ramanuja ((https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2015/09/muthaliandan-ramanujas-first-disciple.html). So impressed was the revered acharya with the devotional intent of Venkidi (that’s how he was called by those close to him) that he took him along to his Thiru Maligai in Kanchipuram. It was to be a life defining moment for the young 15 year old boy. 
     Seshadri in the 1970s with the current Mudhaliandan Swami

Once he moved to Sriperambudur from Thiruvallikeni in 1972, Seshadri rarely stayed with his parents so much so that when Kumara Venkatachar Swamy organised for his Upanayanam, the young Seshadri went around the whole of Madras searching for his parents to invite them for the ceremony the next day for he did not even know where they were residing.

Fully Dedicated to his Mentor and Acharya
For 5 years from 1976, he performed daily service at the Thiru Maligai of Mudhaliandan. The Swamy initiated him into Nalayira Divya Prabhandham, Grantham, the art of making sacred Thaligai and more importantly the mantras to be chanted for every sacred activity that one performs each day. During this period, he would wake up each day at 4am, have a cold water bath, wash the clothes of his acharya, cook food and perform service through the day for his acharya.

It was also a phase when Venkatachar Swamy taught him life lessons that Seshadri has not forgotten to this day – that of being contented in life, not succumbing to temptations of life and to be generally controlled in one’s actions at all times. 
Every day Darshan of Athi Varadar 40 years ago
Seshadri was blessed to be right near the Varadaraja Perumal Temple 40 years ago for the Athi Varadar Utsavam.  There would be at least 50 disciples who made their way to the Thiru Maligai of Mudhaliandan Swamy each of the 48 days. It was Seshadri who cooked and presented food on each of these days serving a large number of disciples. This experience also equipped him with the ability to cook varied food for as many as 1000 people in one go. He also enjoyed the experience of having darshan of Athi Varadar on each of the 48 days. 

During those five years, he had the great experience of accompanying Venkatachar Mudhaliandan Swamy to the Kooram temple each Hastham of the year.

So pleased was Venkatachar Swamy with the service of Seshadri that he appointed the 20 year old as a Theertha Gumastha at the Singaperumal Koil in 1980, a rare privilege that entitled the youngster to have the first rights at the temple. While Mudhaliandan Swamy continued to reside in Kanchipuram, Seshadri moved to Singaperumal Koil into the Thiru Maligai of Mudhaliandan Swamy.

A treasured moment - Receives Sambhavanai of Rs. 60/- from his Acharya for his devotional service
For the next five years, he was under the care of Vadakapatti Narayanan, a disciple of Mudhaliandan performing daily service at Singaperumal Koil.  He was paid a monthly sambhavanai of Rs. 60 by Mudaliadan Swamy for his service activity, an amount that Seshadri that treasured for he received it from his mentor and acharya who had taught him the Vaishnavite Sampradayam.

During the Brahmotsavam, the temple personnel would beat the drum and led by the Theevatti, would visit the Thirumaligai of Mudhaliandan Swamy to invite him for the first rights at the utsavam that included parivattam, theertham and sacred flower garland.

It was also a period when Seshadri began initiating the Nalayira Divya Prabhandham to a bunch of students from Chengalpattu and to a few at the Singaperumal Koil including a couple of Bhattars.

Financial Challenges in his childhood
In the mid 1980s his father, who had seen severe financial challenges in the 1960s and 70s, moved to madapalli service at a temple in Banaswadi in Bombay. Seshadri too was asked to join his parents there.  The period in the 60s and 70s was so bad, financially, that even paying the monthly rent of Rs. 25 for the house where they stayed in Thiruvallikeni was a challenge for the family.  His father performed kainkaryam in three temples but without much of a salary.

Thiruvallikeni Adyapaka ropes Seshadri to the Parthasarathy Temple
It was during his stay in Bombay that Adyapaka Deivanayakan Swamy of Thiruvallikeni asked him to apply for the ‘Ameena’ Post at the Parthasarathy Perumal Koil. He served as a trainee ‘Ameena’ for a year at the temple, after which  he worked for a brief period in a corporate environment, the only time in his life that he was away from temple service.

In 1993, a formal interview was conducted and he was officially appointed as the ‘Ameena’ ((Maniyakaarar) of the Parthasarathy temple . It was much a respected post even from the days of the British for even in those times, 'Ameena' was bestowed with the primary rights and responsibilities to conduct the daily services as well as the utsavams in a timely manner. He was also the one that the temple looked forward to for information on any deviation in services by any of the personnel at the temple.

For over 25 years, he has been the official timekeeper at the temple having streamlined many of the activities at the temple. It has not been an easy period though, for the 1990s witnessed many challenging moments not least from the Sripatham of the time. He was also new at the temple and had to bear the brunt of the challenges that arose during most of the street processions. But his devotional commitment helped him sail through that phase. 

Political climate at Parthasarathy Koil
Like many other temples administered by the HR & CE, this one too has had its fair share of political interference. For a brief period a decade ago, driven by political pressure, he was moved away to the role of paricharakar and also to manage the counter. There was even a plan to remove him from the temple such was the group-ism among the powers that be but good sense finally prevailed and he was reappointed as the Ameena.

Similar to Srirangam, the processions at the Parthasarathy temple have been on time ( that was not always the case till the 1990s) after Seshadri took over as the Maniyakaarar. He is also proud of initiating ‘Ekantha Sevai’ for Narasimha Swamy during the Brahmotsavam, an event that was kicked off just over two decades ago. He is also happy that during his stint at the temple, he has been able to manage various service personnel adopting a consensus decision making approach whenever issues have flared up.

While his father wanted him to become an auditor, Seshadri wanted his two children to take up IAS but their interests too were elsewhere and have taken up to work in the corporate world.  Determined to have an IAS official in the family, Seshadri has now instilled the thought  in his grandchildren.

Service at Srirangam - A Long Cherished Dream
Seshadri will soon be turning 60 and his time could be up at the Parthasarathy temple same time next year, even though talks are already on for a possible extension of his service given his terrific contribution to the temple, the clean sheet and the track record at the temple and the fact that all the service personnel have been comfortable engaging with him.

His has been a loud and prominent voice one has heard at this Divya Desam for over 25 years. When unhappy with the performance of any service personnel, especially ahead of a procession, Seshadri’s has been the first voice to come out. 

Despite the numerous challenges he has had to face at the Parthasarathy Perumal Koil as the Maniyakaarar of the temple, he considers the peace of mind that he has had over the last couple of decades as the greatest blessing of his life. Each night when he has gone to bed, he has done so with the satisfaction of having served the Lord that day. And that is a blessed state to have been in. He says that the five years under the tutelage of Venkatachar Mudhaliandan Swamy also gave him the people management skills that has held him in good stead at the Parthasarathy Koil, especially during tough times.

Into the future, he  wants to initiate youngsters into Nalayira Divya Prabhandham during his free time so the sacred verses of the Azhvaars are passed on to the next generation.

His long cherished dream has been to serve Lord Ranganatha of Srirangam as the Maniyakaarar of the temple. He is hopeful that one day in the not so distant future that this dream will become a reality. 

VB Gokulakrishnan TNPL

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The once 'Dreaded Duo' in the City League join hands once again with VB Chandrasekar roping in J Gokulakrishnan as the coach of his team in the TNPL 
One will have to wait and watch if this combination will make it happen again like they did in the 1990s
                       
Just over 25 years after they formed one of the potent combinations in the city league, former captain of India Cements VB Chandrasekar and his new ball bowler of the time J Gokulakrishnan (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/03/gokulakrishnan-j.html), who spearheaded the bowling attack of India Cements in the 1990s and anchored many a victory that decade have come together again, this time in the fourth edition of the TNPL.

As soon as he decided to throw himself into the local TN T20 league, VBC ( http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/01/vb-chandrasekar.html) was keen to rope in his mentee from the 1990s. However the terms did not work out at that time. While Gokulakrishnan along with his brother Madanagopal coached Tuti Patiriots to two successive finals  (including winning one), VBC’s team has not fared particularly well in the TNPL so far (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/09/tnpl.html). 

When the duo moved on to the Coimbatore team last year, it was the match against VB’s team that undid the season for them as they collapsed chasing a mediocre target.

VBC once again looked for Gokulakrishnan ahead of the new season that is set to start in the third week of this month. However, with Gokul committed to the Coimbatore team, it seemed that the once feared combination may not come together yet another time.

But things turned around suddenly over the last week as Gokul and Madan parted ways with the Coimbatore team. And finally, after three years, VBC as he always does has had his way even if it has come a little late this time and has signed up Gokulakrishnan as the coach for his team.

For both VBC and Gokulakrishnan, winning was a driving force in the way they played their cricket. And it is likely that this combo will go all out this season to give it a winning shot.

It will be interesting to wait and watch as to how this once dreaded combination fare this time around. 
(Teams from the TNPL have shown interest in roping in Madanagopal, who has been rated highly as a coach and mentor by the players in TN.  However, if nothing works out soon, he may take the call to make himself available to umpire for the first time in the TNPL, this season)

Kapisthalam Seshadri Bhattar

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For 45 years from 1961, he served at the Moopanar Family managed Gajendra Varadar Divya Desam at a monthly salary of Rs. 16
-          - A Single Increment in Six Decades 
With the untimely death of his father (there were no medical facilities at that time in Kapisthalam), O. S Seshadri Bhattar took over as the archaka at the Gajendra Varadar Divya Desam in Kapisthalam, one of the Pancha Krishna Kshetrams, when he was just 19, in 1961.  For almost 60 years now, he has been performing devotional service, all alone, every day of the year at this Divya Desam, a major part of which at a salary of Rs. 16 per month. His one and only increment in this long period of six decades came just after the Samprokshanam in 2007 when his monthly salary was increased to Rs. 500.

Seshadri Bhattar was one of the well respected priests in the region even at that young age in the 1960s for he had learned the Vedas and Agamas for a decade from 1949 from the revered Oothukadu Sankara Ganapadigal at the renowned centuries old Raja Patshala in Kumbakonam.  He wanted to become a teacher but the sudden death of his father meant that the responsibility of the temple service came to him at a very young age.

Vibrant Agraharam – Strong Service Personnel
In the 1960s, Kapisthalam too was vibrant with 21 traditional families including one Saivite and Rayar family, in the Agraharam. With the presence of Adyapakas, Divya Prabhandham Ghosti was an everyday feature at the temple. All the residents in the agraharam would gather at the temple in large numbers for Nithyanusanthanam in the evening that was followed by the presentation of Sundal to the Lord.

That decade, the temple had 11 service personnel including Mei Kaavalar, the garland maker and paricharakars, in addition to four who played the sacred musical instruments. For 15 years, Seshadri lived a financially challenging life. He would receive a maximum of one anna a day and it was with that, that he ran the family. His elder brothers found their way into life outside of temple service as did his younger brother leaving him as the only one in the family continuing the hereditary service. In the 1960s, Seshadri Bhattar also ran a Patshala in Kapisthalam teaching over 20 students. Most of his students have done financially well in their lives but very few have come to serve their Guru or help him financially in his tough times.

In those initial decades at Kapisthalam, he resided in what is now the Vahana Mandapam at the Eastern entrance to the temple, a 200 sq ft room. With support from the residents of Umayalapuram, he built the small home opposite the Gajendra Varadar temple which is where he has been residing for decades. It was only after the Samprokshanam in 2007 that Seshadri Bhattar’s salary was increased from Rs. 16 that he had been receiving for 45 years to Rs. 500 per month.
Umayalpuram Perumal - An Additional Temple in charge
In September 1976, his uncle who had been performing service at the Rajagopalan Temple in Umayalpuram, a few kms East of Kapisthalam went in pursuit of overseas opportunities and asked Seshadri to perform ‘two time’ aradhana at the temple. Umayalpuram was a vibrant location in those decades with 60 traditional families residing in the agraharam. All the residents loved Seshadri Bhattar for his devotion to the Lord. He would cycle his way between Kapisthalam and Umayalpuram each day. He was paid a monthly salary of Rs. 150 for his service there, which came as a welcome addition, financially.

Heartbreak - A Deaf And Dumb Son
His son was born partially (or at least that’s what Seshadri Bhattar thought) deaf and dumb in 1981. Through that entire decade, he spent his entire earnings and more on the medical treatment for his son including taking him to JIPMER but nothing progressed. There were different versions and solutions that gave Seshadri Bhattar hope but his son has remained speechless for almost four decades now, though the father has kept the verbal communication going from his side. And over time, his son began to understand the messages from his father, especially those relating to temple activities.

Utsavams
There has been no Brahmotsavam at the temple for over a century, though when he joined service he found many of the Vahanas. But even during the time his grandfather served at the temple, there had been no Brahmotsavam.

The Lord provides Garuda Sevai darshan on Akshaya Trithi. In the 1960s, the Gajendra Moksham episode used to be enacted in a grand way at the tank South of the temple. But with water drying up and the tank currently in a poor state, this has become a simple event. Thirumanjanam on Puratasi Saturday and Ramaa Mani Thayar purapdu on Aadi and Thai Fridays have been regular features at the temple. But most of the grand festivals have come to nought in recent decades with almost the entire agraharam residents moving away to cities seeking greener pastures. In the last decade or so, Navarathri has been celebrated in a grand way with participation from the local community.

A Towering Recognition
Way back in 1963, when he was just 21 years old, Thiru Kudanthai Andavan, the then Jeeyar of Andavan Ashram conferred the title of ‘Mantra Mani for having rendered Vishnu Homam for 20 hours nonstop in Kumbakonam without a water or a toilet break. But financial rewards have eluded Seshadri Bhattar all through his life.

All alone without support
Unlike many other priests in the region, Seshadri Bhattar has not been in the thick of action performing Samprokshanams in other Divya Desams/ Temples, an activity that has been financially lucrative. Given the physical state of his son and being stuck all alone at the Kapisthalam temple, he has rarely participated in Samprokshanam activities in other temples. Thus for a major part of his life, he has had to manage with the two digit salary at the Kapisthalam temple and the slightly better remuneration at the Umayalpuram temple. As decades passed, the service personnel too reduced at the Kapisthalam Divya Desam and for a number of years he has now been all alone at the temple without any support, despite this being in the hands of the financially rich Moopanar family.

In the last few years, the devotee numbers has been on the rise and so has the Thattu Kaasu but this is not in line with increased cost of living. 
What he has found remarkable is that his wife has never complained once in her life about the financial challenges. He proudly says that she eats the food available on the day, even if it’s without salt. That has been her commitment to him and this Divya Desam. A couple of years ago, after several years of search, Seshadri found a lady who agreed to marry his son giving the 77 year old Bhattar peace of mind that there would be someone to take care of his son after his time.

Seshadri Bhattar is truly a one of his kind having spent the last six decades at the Kapisthalam Divya Desam, almost entirely at a miniscule salary of Rs. 16. He has never complained in his life about the financial challenges and has served the Lord with devotion every day for he has largely remained contented with the way of life that God has provided him. His son has been very dear to him and he has spent the last four decades trying to give him as much happiness as possible communicating to him in whatever he could. With the passing of every decade, his son has improved and is now able to help devotees with darshan.

As a security for his son, Seshadri Bhattar is looking to buy a couple of cows that can in the future support his son financially. But for the moment he does not have the financial wherewithal to buy one. He is hopeful that one day some devotee will help him run a Go-Shala in Kapisthalam.

Tiruvoimozhi Pillai Konthagai

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The descendants of the Acharya, who transformed Azhvaar Tirunagari into a beautiful temple town, have dedicated their lives to the service of the Lord and Azhvaar at this ancient Divya Desam 
Located 15kms East of Madurai is the centuries old Deivanayakan temple in Konthagai, the birth place of Acharya Tiruvoimozhi Pillai. While the temple itself is in fine state, the once vibrant agraharam that comprised of traditionalists chanting Vedas and Prabhandham, is non-existent and as with many other historical locations, this too has faded with passage of time.

The young Gopalakrishnan Bhattar is one of those few among the modern gen who has chosen to stay back in a remote temple town and perform aradhana for the Lord. His uncle had previously been undertaking pooja for several decades.

Unfortunately, there aren’t too many visitors to the temple despite this being an Avathara Sthalam of a Vaishnavite Acharya. To those that do visit, the priest with great delight refers to this as a location that Arjuna visited as part of his pilgrimage. 

Every Moolam, the Adyapakas make a trip to Konthagai all the way from Koodal Azhagar to present prabhandham at the temple here. On Vaikasi Visakam, the birth day of Tiruvoimozhi Pillai, the acharya goes on a grand street procession, as part of the Avathara Utsavam celebrations.

Being a Pancharatra Agama temple, Koodal Azhagar temple refused to administer this remote temple and hence this comes under the administration of Meenakshi Amman Koil, the only Perumal temple under their control.

The temple is open from 7am to 11am and 530pm to 8pm. Contact Gopalakrishna Bhattar @ 97887 26611

Tiruvoimozhi Pillai and Azhvaar Tirunagari
While his Avathara Sthalam has turned remote in modern times, far away down South in Azhvaar Tirunagari, the location where Tiruvoimozhi Pillai resurrected the forest region into a beautiful temple town and brought back the idol of Nam Azhvaar from Kerala,  there is a certain vibrancy with his descendants continuing his legacy of performing service to the Azhvaar.

The historical story - From administration of Kingdom to Vaishnavism
With the then Pandya King dying early and his son too young to be crowned as the next king, Thirumalai Azhvaar, the original name of Tiruvoimozhi Pillai, was mandated by the ministers in the kingdom to take over the administration till such time the prince came of age. It was around this time that the Mughals invaded the Srirangam temple. Along with others, Pillai Lokacharya brought the idol of Namperumal to Kodikulam, near Narasingam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/12/yoga-narasimha-narasingam-madurai.html). Thirumalai Azhvaar had been initiated by his acharya Pillai Lokacharya with the Pancha Samskaram when he was very young.

It was during his stay there that he identified the devotional powers of Thirumalai Azhvaar and called upon Koora Kulothuma Dasa to initiate him in the traditional path.

Once when Thirumalai Azhvaar was going around the city of Madurai on an inspection round, he found Koora Kulothuma Dasa reciting the Tiruviruttam verses of Nam Azhvaar. Not finding him yet ready to take on the challenge of traditional services, Koora Kulothuma Dasa refused to explain to him the significance of these verses. When he narrated this incident to his mother, she informed him of the wishes of his acharya and the role assigned to Koora Kulothuma Dasa.

Yet another time, when Thirumalai Azhvaar was on elephant top on another inspection of the city and its people, he spotted Koora Kulothuma Dasa amidst the crowd. This time there was a spark and Thirumali Azhvaar requested Kulothuma Dasa to initiate him into the verses in the mornings during the period that he was applying the sacred Thiruman before his departure to perform the administrative duties in the kingdom.

It was also the time that Nam Azhvaar’s idol had been taken away to Kerala as a precautionary measure to guard from the Mughal invasion. Tholappar sought the help of the Pandya forces to recover the idol that had been hidden under a deep pit. It was finally Tholappar who dived into the pit to help reclaim the idol. However, in the process of trying to climb back he lost his life. In memory of his contribution to the recovery of the idol, he is to this day presented with Theertham and sacred garland after the Thiru Arathanam every day at the Aathi Nathan temple in Azhvaar Tirunagari.

Soon, he quit the kingdom and made the transition to a life of a Vaishnavite. Tiruvoimozhi Pillai left for Azhvaar Tirunagari, a location that at that time resembled a huge forest. Given his administrative experience at the Pandya Kingdom, he got down to the task of renovating the entire place and converted it into a beautiful temple town with the temple in the heart of it. Taking a special liking to Namazhvaar’s Tiruvoimozhi, he began practicing it all the time at the temple that he (Thirumalai Azhvaar) came to be referred to as ‘Tiruvoimozhi pillai’.

The descendants
Sridhar Tiruvoimozhi Pillai is one of the descendants continuing to reside at Azhvaar Tirunagari and one who also takes care of archaka service at Thiru Mogur Divya Desam. His forefathers had dedicated their entire lives in the service of the Lord of Thiru Kurugur but it was a financially challenging time for them during the 20th century. For several decades, it was the sishyas who helped them survive that phase of life. The sishyas presented cows that helped his forefathers secure milk for the day. For half a century, the entire family just had one meal a day. His father did service at the Thiruvenkatamudayan Sannidhi South of the Athi Nathan temple at a salary of Rs. 22 for many years. 
During the Adyayana Utsavam in Azhvaar Tirunagari, the descendants of Tiruvoimozhi Pillai are given the first respects on the first day. Financially they do not get anything at the Azhvaar Tirunagari Divya Desam except for some quantity of rice as prasadam. The descendants are also the Sthalathars at Thiru Kolur Vaitha Maa Nidhi Divya Desam and are bestowed with the keys of the temple. There, they serve as Adyapakas and present Veda Parayanam and are also the hereditary Arankavalar. Given that he ruled the kingdom, Tiruvoimozhi Pillai had first rights of theertham at Srivilliputhur, Azhagar Koil, Thiru Mogur and Konthagai in the Pandya region.

The financial revival
It was in the 2nd half of the 20thcentury that one of the descendants was handed over to Thiru Mogur Divya Desam after the original Mirasu there did not have successors. Only after this adoption and after the revival in the 1990s of the temple located in the outskirts of Madurai did the descendants of Tiruvoimozhi Pillai find an improvement in their livelihood. At the Kaalamegha Perumal temple, the descendants of Tiruvoimozhi Pillai present the Puranam on the occasion of Kaisika Ekadasi, Sri Jayanthi, Gajendra Moksham( Maasi) and the Sthala Puranam in Vaikasi.

Unlike many others from the present generation, none of the descendants of Tiruvoimozhi Pillai have tried to seek livelihood outside of the temple service. There are six in the family currently as the descendants.

Doddamallur Aprameya Navaneetha Krishna Perumal

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Committed to devotional service of Lord Aprameya, Pancharatra Agama expert Radhakrishna Bhattarchaya refused lucrative overseas offers and has served the Lord for 40years without an official posting – He is set to receive a Doctorate Degree this Saturday for his expertise in the Agamas

His father served the temple with utmost devotion for over seven decades, a majority of which at a monthly salary of Rs. 3

A Temple that celebrates the Avathara Utsavam of both Desikar and Manavala Mamuni
Radhakrishna Bhattachar is touching 70 and has been at the Doddamallur Aprameya Perumal temple, one that is renowned for the crawling Navaneetha Krishna, for much of his life. He has let go several overseas opportunities that have come his way over the last four decades and has lived his life with the sole purpose of serving Lord Aprameya at Doddamallur, inspired by the verses of Purandaradasa who sung praise of Lord Aprameya .

His father Gopala Raja Bhattar served at the temple for over seven decades from 1942, starting with a monthly salary of Rs. 3 and ending 71 years later (when he passed away) with a salary of Rs. 1500!!!

Soon after Radhakrishna Bhattar received Dikshai at the age of 16, he joined his father at the temple supporting him in the daily activities. Having completed his schooling in Doddamallur, Radhakrishna Bhattar studied Pancharatra Agama for five years at the Mysore Sanskrit College, the most renowned college in those days. From the stalwarts of those days, he learnt Desikar Prabhandham, Mimamsa and other Mantras.  The jeer of Parakala Mutt took a personal liking for the devotional conduct of the then young man in the 1970s and would ask him to recite the Desikar Prabhandham. 

No official posting for Radhakrishna till 2013
There was only one official posting at the temple and since his father held that, Radhakrishna Bhattar could only offer support activities and for much of his life has not been an official staffer of the temple. In the mid 1970s, when Radhakrishna Bhattar was in his mid 20s, he was offered a posting at the Pittsburg Perumal temple, an offer that was so lucrative that few would have refused.

His father, who was on a monthly salary of Rs. 3 was keen that his son accept the offer as it would have given great financial stability and growth to the family but the son’s mind lay elsewhere. The peace of mind that Radhakrishna had experienced in the first two decades of his life serving the Lord helped him forge a strong devotional bonding with the temple and he simply refused to leave the temple.
Not only did he instantly reject the offer, he also decided that he would not leave the Lord of Doddamallur at any point of time in life to serve at an overseas temple. In the ensuing decades, several other offers from temples in different continents came his way but Radhakrishna Bhattar resisted the temptation to make the move away from Lord Aprameya. In fact most residents in the agraharam moved away from the town in the 1970s and 80s. Many of them went on to hold top posts including the head of HMT, BEML, Police (DGP) and one in the atomic energy space.

Radhakrishna Bhattar, for his part, also refused full time jobs within the state including a Professor’s posting at the Mysore Govt College, for he did not want a life outside of the temple. For over two decades, he taught part time at a local school and later also taught agamas and sculptures in a college.

It was this devotional commitment that helped the popularity of the temple grow over the last few decades. During the harvest season, the farmers in all the neighbouring villages would present their first offering at the feet of this Bhattar family, such was the regard they had for the family. 
The Legend
In the Brahmanda Purana, Lord Aprameya has been described in 12 Adyayams. Inscriptions dating back to 400AD refer to the temple. Lord Aprameya also finds mention in other historical scriptures. The story goes that when one dug three feet at this place, one got pure sand. Hence it was referred to as ‘Manalur’ (Maavalur in Kannada) which in later period became Malloor.  Another story goes that King Sarangadara ruled over 20 villages in this region. When once the opposition forces over powered him and cut him into pieces, he invoked the blessings of Lord Aprameya and to the surprise of everyone, his hands came back. Hence this place was called ‘Molaitha’ Ooru.

The Moolavar Lord is seen in an East facing standing posture with a conch and chakra. Aravinda Valli Thaayar is seen in a separate sannidhi. There are also sannidhis for Vedantha Desikar and Manavala Mamunigal.  
During the Brahmotsavam, the Lord is carried on the Vahanas around the four streets of Dodda Mallur.

A once Vibrant Agraharam
Not so long ago till the early part of the second half of the 20th century, there was a vibrant agaraharam opposite the temple with over a 100 traditional families residing in the street. It was such an integral part of the town that all communication from here went with a reference to the agraharam of Doddamallur.

Historically, there were four Perumal temples and four Shiva temples in each of the four sides. Gopalakrishna Temple in the East,  Janardhana in the West, Rama in the South and Lakshmi Narasimha in the North.  Arkeswara Temple in the East, Kalyana Natheswara in the West and Varadeswara in the South and Kaileswara in the North.There are several inscriptions within the temple in the inner prakara.
In recognition of the contribution of the improvement initiatives at the temple, there is a stone image of a Vijayanagara ruler.
Festivals
A Grand Brahmotsavam continues to be celebrated in Chitrai with Chariot Festival on Hastham. It is the fortnight in the year when almost all the traditionalists congregate in the agraharam.

A number of cultural initiatives especially for children have been initiated by Radhakrishna Bhattar around the Krishna Jayanthi Utsavam

4 day Pavitrotsavam  in Avani

Unlike most of the temples in Tamil Nadu, both the Vedantha Desikar and Manavala Mamuni Utsavams are celebrated in a grand way at this temple.

A continuing piece of historical tradition is that the temple closes for the day when there is a death in the agraharam.

Only after the death of his father in 2013 did Radhakrishan Bhattar get the posting in the temple, over five decades after he began performing service at the temple, supporting his father. Interestingly, there are notices at different locations at the temple that direct devotees to present ‘Thattu Kaasu’ only in the official Hundials!!! In the years that Radhakrishna Bhattar has performed service, the annual hundi collection in the temple has gone up from Rs.40000 to Rs. 40Lakhs but as with temple in Tamil Nadu, the salary of the priest has remained abysmally low.

In recognition of his four plus decades of devotional service at the temple, promotion of spiritual activities and his expertise and presentations on the Pancharatra agama, he is being conferred a Doctorate this Saturday (July 27) jointly by a University in Bangalore and in the US. 
Quick Facts
Moolavar: Aprameya Perumal
Thayar    : Aravinda Valli Thayar
Separate Sannidhi: Navaneetha Krishna seen with butter in his hand

The temple is open from 730am-1pm and 430pm to 8pm. Contact: 95381 38079

How to reach
Doddamallur is about 60kms from Bangalore on the Mysore Highway, 3kms after Channapatna. From Channapatna Station, an auto to the temple will cost Rs. 70 (96636 70125 Arasu).

Share autos are available from the bus stand. Express bus may not stop at Doddamallur.

Maddur Ugra Narasimha

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A temple where Narasimha is seen in the angry posture at the time of the killing of Hiranyakashipu
Lord Varadaraja North of Ugra Narasimha temple is similar to the one in Kanchipuram

Located 15kms West of Doddamallur Aprameya Perumal Temple (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2019/07/doddamallur-aprameya-navaneetha-krishna.html) on the Bangalore Mysore Highway is the centuries old Ugra Narasimha temple in Maddur, where the Lord is seen in angry posture with Hiranyakashipu on his lap.Garuda and Prahalada, both in standing posture, are seen flanking the Lord.

When Arjuna requested Krishna for a darshan of Narasimha Avatara, he was told that the avathara could not be replayed but directed Brahmma to create and install the idol of Narasimha in a posture depicting the destruction of the asura.

Kadamba Rishi created a theertham, had bath and undertook penance invoking the blessings of the Lord. Hence this place was historically referred to as Kadamba Kshetram.

 The Hoysalas renovated the temple that one sees in the current form and structure.

Once upon a time, medicines were made available here for all health issues. Hence this place was referred to as ‘madhu’ that over time became Maddur. Even today those with skin issues and with mental fear are believed to be relieved from these issues after invoking the blessings of the Lord and once the sacred water is splashed on their face. 
On Avani Shravanam, the Lord is decorated with Vennai Alankaram. 15 day Brahmotsavam is celebrated in Chitrai. There are two Thayar Sannidhis at the temple – Sowmya Nayaki and Narasimha Nayaki. A special feature at the temple is the posture of Yashoda holding her child Krishna by her chest. Hanuman is seen in a respectful posture before Lord Rama at a separate sannidhi.
To the North of the temple is the Hoysala Period Varadaraja Perumal temple. The story goes that King Vishnu Varadan’s mother could not make it to Kanchi to have darshan of Varadar as she could not see. The King brought the architects from Kanchipuram and built an idol similar to the one in Kanchi. After a 48 day pooja invoking the blessings of the Lord, the King brought his mother to the temple. And to his mother’s delight, she had darshan of Varadaraja Perumal. 
Hence this Lord came to be known as Kanchi Kan Varadarajar. Similar to Kanchipuram one has to climb 27 steps to reach the Moolavar Sannidhi. Varadar Jayanthi is celebrated in a grand way on Hastham. On the day Ugra Narasimha is decorated with Vennai Alankaram, an abhishekam takes place here for Varadarajar.

The temple is open between 8am – 12noon and 5pm-8pm. Contact Balaji Bhattar @ 90362 92265

Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam

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60 years ago, there were two vibrant agraharams with traditionalists participating actively in Brahmotsavam and Desikar utsavam

Pichai Bhattar managed three temples all alone for two decades and served devotionally for 55 years, Paricharkar Sampath served for over four decades in challenging times at a salary of a few 100s
Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/01/thanjai-maa-mani-koil-divya-desam.html), praised by Thirumangai Azhvaar in his very first decad in the Periya Thirumozhi as one with walls and groves, is located three kms from Thanjavur on the banks of Vennaar, a tributary of Cauvery.

எம்பிரான்எந்தைஎன்னுடைச்சுற்றம்
எனக்குஅரசுஎன்னுடைவாழ்நாள்
அம்பினால்அரக்கர்வெருக்கொளநெருக்கி
அவர்உயிர்செகுத்தஎம்அண்ணல்

வம்புலாம்சோலைமாமதில்
தஞ்சைமாமணிக்  கோயிலேவணங்கி
நம்பிகாள்உய்யநான்கண்டுகொண்டேன்
நாராயணாஎன்னும்நாமம்

Till 60 years ago, Thanjavur despite being a district headquarters comprising of Thiruvarur and Nagapattinam, was largely an underdeveloped town. One of the few landmarks, the Thanjavur Palace was in a dilapidated state. The finances of the Palace were in a terrible state. There was not a single college in town. Less than 10 cars plied on the roads of Thanjavur. Bullock Cart was the main form of transport within the town.

Sangeetha Mahal – A Fertiliser Godown
Sangeetha Mahal was used as a Storarge House of Fertilizer Urea.  There was nauseating smell when a visitor went inside and hence most stayed away. Saraswathi Mahal was only slightly better.  The now famous Big Temple was not tourist place and was also not one of devotional destination for the sannidhis were inhabited by bats that rushed out in large numbers on human entry. There were just three Gurukals to take care of the entire temple, one each for the Swami and Ambal Sannidhi and a third who took care of all the other sannidhis. Except for Thursday, there was very little crowd at the temple.

Collectors’ Efforts in the 1950s
It was only after brothers TK Sankara Vadivelu and Palaniappan became Collector, in successive terms, in the 1950s that development initiatives were undertaken says the 88 years K Ramanarayanan, who served for decades in the revenue department in Thanjavur.

Logically they began by focusing on the revival of the Palace. During Sankara Vadivelu’s time as the Collector, he renovated the Sangeetha Mahal and brought the acoustics to old glory. His brother Palaniappan who was previously in Hyderabad succeeded him. Palaniappan had experienced the beauty of Safdarjung Museum and was shattered to see the Palace in bad shape. After a terrible cyclone struck the district in the 1950s, he sent a circular to all Tahsildars to collect pieces of art neglected and not in worship in different temples in the district. A number of idols were brought to the palace and showcased in the art gallery.

He also organised an annual art exhibition in Thanjavur. SS Vasan, whose movie Avvayar was run at that time, promoted the film in Thanjavur district and passed on some of the collections to help with the repairs at the Palace. The exhibition gave a face lift to the town. In 1965, Veda Narayanan handed over the collections from the last of the annual exhibitions to the Government clearing all the debts of the Palace.

The first college in Thanjavur
Sarfoji College was started and shortly after the Kundavi Nachiyar Girls College, the first for women. A medical college too was opened in the 1960s. Thus began the development of Thanjavur. Because of the presence of the Cauvery and  her Tributaries in the North, the town saw a lopsided development with growth skewed towards the South.

The Big Temple inhabited with Bats
The first real fillip to the Big Temple was when the Bats were driven out after Periyava suggested the lighting of 500 Ghee lamps every Friday. Over a decade later, Periyava was the inspirational force behind the conduct of the Kumbabhisekam after a gap of 177years, with the previous large scale repair works having been undertaken in 1803 by Sarfoji.10 lakh devotees visited the Big Temple on the occasion of the Kumbabhisekam and after. It was the biggest event for decades in a temple in Tamil Nadu. Later that decade, one saw another event of a grand scale with the construction of the Raja Gopuram in Srirangam.

The state of and the development of Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam is to be seen in light of scenario that existed in Thanjavur, especially at the Big Temple, at that time.

Pichai Bhattar - 5+ decades at the temple
Srinivas Bhattar, popularly referred to as ‘Pichai’ joined the temple in the early 1960s and served for almost 55 years till his death a couple of years back. For a large part, he received a salary of a few hundreds. When he received Rs. 20 a month as Thattu Kaasu, he saw it as a big bonus. To take care of the family, he also managed a few other temples in the nearby villages.

Till the 1960s, agraharam was vibrant at this Divya Desam and two at that – one in the South and the other North of the temple. The traditional residents at the agraharam financially supported the festivals. But beginning the 60s and more into the 70s, a lot of them sold the property in the agraharam and went away seeking greener pastures. During those decades, when the agraharams were vibrant, the Lord was carried on shoulders around the four streets of the Divya Desam. But in recent times, as with most other remote temples in Tamil Nadu, there has been shortage of staff here as well and the Lord now moves on wheels even during the annual Brahmotsavam. In those years, Veda Parayanam too was a regular feature at the temple, especially during Desikar Utsavam.

Srinivasa ‘Pichai’ Bhattar was the man who was the vital link between the Lord and the devotees even in the financially tough times. As a single Bhattar, in the 1960s and 70s, he would shuttle between the three temples – Singa Perumal Koil, Manikundram Perumal and Neela Megha Perumal - helping devotees with darshan. This continued much into this decade as well and till the very end was devotionally committed to the Lords of this Divya Desam.

In a verse in the Periya Thirumozhi, Thirumangai Azhvaar refers to the Lord (Narasimha) who tore open the chest of Hiranyakashipu as residing in Thanjai Maa Mani Koil. He also refers to the second of the temples as Manikundram.

என்செய்கேன்அடியேன்உரையீர்இதற்கு
என்றும்என்மனத்தேஇருக்கும்புகழ்
தஞ்சைஆளியைபொன்பெயரோன்நெஞ்சம்
அன்றுஇடந்தவனைதழவேபுரை

மின்செய்வாள்அரக்கன்நகர்பாழ்பட
சூழ்கடல்சிறைவைத்து  இமையோர்தொழும்
பொன்செய்மால்வரையைமணிகுன்றினை
அன்றிஎன்மனம்போற்றிஎன்னாதே

His son Narasimha Bhattar began supporting his father from the age of 15. He has now been at the temple for the last 35 years. But for someone committed to serving the Lord in three temples at this Divya Desam, there was no girl who came forward to marry him and thus at 50, he remains unmarried living in a small ''few 100s sft' house opposite the Manikundram Perumal Temple.

60 years in the agraharam
Rukmini Maami is 85 years old and has been a resident of this Divya Desam for close to 60 years having come here with her husband in 1962. She and her husband are the only couple to have remained in the agraharam through this period.

She remembers the huge quantity of Thaligai comprising of Kadambam rice and Chakkarai Pongal that was presented to the Lord during the big Utsavams such as the Brahmotsavam and the Desikar Utsavam. The doors of the house that stretched from the agraraham in the South to the Eastern entrance of the temple were always open. Relatives and friends would come from afar for these utsavams. 100s of devotees would enjoy the sacred food after the procession of the Lord around the four streets. 

Her family supported these utsavams in a big way and ensured that the festivals at the Singa Perumal Koil did not stop for want of funds. However as with others in the agraharam, most of her relatives too chose the corporate world as their future and left this Divya Desam over a period of time leaving her and her husband as the sole long standing couple here.

Sadly, the Brahmotsavam and street processions have come to a halt at the Manikundram Divya Desam after the flag post was damaged a decade ago. The authorities are hoping that this will be revived soon. After the death of Pichai Bhattar, the Prince has appointed a separate Bhattar for Neelamegha Perumal temple, the first in several decades.  Within a matter of 12 months, one finds a dramatic change in the temple with the Lord seen in glittering jewels and Gold Kreedam and Kavacham, thanks to the interest taken by the new priest.

Paricharakar for 4 decades through the tough times
Paricharaka Sampath Iyengar too served at the Thanjai Maa Mani Divya Desam for four decades from the early 1960s, also at a monthly salary in the 100s. In a rare turn of event, his grandson 25 year old Sridhar has joined the temple after completing his graduation, purely in a gesture of continuing the service. 
                                    Sridhar Paricharakar
Right from his school and college days, he had been supporting his grandfather at the temple. He had also taken special interest in decorating the Lord even as a young boy. Now he is actively involved in alankaram during Brahmotsavams and also during the now popular 23 Garuda Sevai in Thanjavur. The good news now is that both Narasimha Bhattar and Sridhar Paricharakar are well paid by the Prince.

Mei Kavalar and his devotional commitment
An integral part of the survival of this Divya Desam was the Mei Kavalar P Varadarajan, like the one in Athanur Divya Desam not too far away from here. Now 61, he joined the temple about 25 years ago at a salary of Rs. 310. His was the role to open the temple door at the scheduled time in the morning and evening. He was also responsible for the cleanliness of the temple. He also carried the Lord on his shoulder when required and also carried the torch lamp – Theevatti- during processions. Coming off from farming in the village of Perumagalur, he is delighted to have got the opportunity to serve the Lord in a Divya Desam. 

It was not the financial lure but the devotional attraction and to be with the Lord all days of the year that helped him stick like a glue these two and a half decades. At the time of his retirement, he secured a healthy Rs. 13000 as monthly salary. Subsequent to this retirement, he now serves as the watchman at the temple.

Almost the entire service personnel are in synch when it comes to the role played by the Rajah of Thanjavur in preserving these ancient temples (88 of them are under their administration). Both in difficult times and now when things are much better, the Palace has done its best for these service personnel. And that is truly commendable, especially at a time when the HR & CE continues to pay in 100s to priests in the several 1000s of temples administered by them in Tamil Nadu.

As with many other Divya Desams in TN, there is hope that the original inhabitants will one day come back to the agraharam, the festivals will become grand again with participation from the traditional Vaishnavites. For now, it seems a distant hope. 

Kerala Divya Desams

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There are 13 Divya Desams in Kerala that could be divided into three groups – 8 Divya Desams around Kochi, 3 around Thiruvananthapuram and 2 on the Shoranur – Mangalore route. All of these Divya Desams have been praised by Namazhvar in his Tiruvoimozhi. One can have darshan of all these 13 Divya Desams in two days, though it is better to visit the three near Thiruvananthapuram on a separate trip. Almost all the temples in the region open at 5am and close at 11am and reopen at 5pm and close at 8pm as contrasted with the Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu. The set of temples around Chenganur is believed to have been visited and built by the Pandavas and are propularly referred to s ‘Anju- Ambalam’. There are also a set of temples around Kochi (three are non Divya Desams) that are believed to have been visited by the four brothers from the Ramayana.
Kutta Nattu Thiru Puliyur, Thiru Chittaru, Thiru Varan Vilai, Thiru Van Vandur, Thiru Valla, Thiru Kadithanam (Chenganasery) can be visited in one half of the day starting at 5am at Thiru Kadithanam (Chenganasery) and ending at 11am at Thiru Chittaru or the other way around. The two Divya Desams around Kochi can be visited between 5pm and 8pm in the evening. On the next morning the two Divya Desams near Kuttipuram can be visited between 5am and 10am,

The three Divya Desams in and around Thiruvananthapuram can be visited on a separate trip between 3am /4am and 11am.

1.    1. Thiru Katkarai – Kochi

Located 10kms North East of Ernakulam, close to the Science and Technology University near Edapalli is the over 1200 years old Thiru Katkarai Appan Divya Desam where the Lord  Katkarai Appan is seen with Conch, Chakra and Padma Hastham.

 உருகுமால் நெஞ்சம் உயிரின் பரமன்றி 

பெருகுமால்  வேட்கையும் என் செய்கேன் தொண்டனேன் 
தெரிவு எல்லாம் காவி கமழ் திருக்காட்கரை 
மருவிய மாயன்  தன் மாயம் நினைதொறே 

Namazhvar refers to lotus flowers growing in large numbers around the temple. He praises the location as being home to fertile groves. He praises the Lord, Thirukatkarai appan as having lotus eyes and beautiful lips and seen with four arms.

Katkarai Appan came here as a Vamana Moorthy to end the troubles caused by King Bali and hence this place is referred to as Vamana Kshetram. To mark this event, it is believed that Lord Vishnu visits this Divya Desam every year on the Thiruvonam day in Avani. Bali is said to have invoked Lord Shiva every day. Hence, there is a Paramasivan Sannidhi to the right of the Perumal Sannidhi, with Bali seen invoking the blessings of Lord Shiva.

Special Plantain Trees
A King tried to plant several plantain saplings but none grew into a full fledged tree. He then decided to present the Lord Katkarai Appan with a Golden Plantain Sapling.  Pleased with the devotional commitment, the Lord is said to have blessed him with a huge number of well grown special plantain trees at this place, now referred to as ‘Nenthram banana’.

Festivals
Onam is the biggest Festival at this temple

The Temple is open from 5am-11am and 5pm-8pm. Contact: PriestS. Venkatan @ 99952 16368 / 97475 36161, Manager Vinod @ 94462 05706 or President Janardhan @ 0484 257 6653

How to reach
The temple is 4kms from Edapalli railway station. An auto to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.150/- from Ernakulam Railway Station A taxi-to and fro- from Ernakulam railway station will cost Rs.400-450/. There are direct buses from Ernakulam Town to this temple (Edapalli)

2.    2.  Thiru Moozhikalam – Lakshmana Kshteram
Namazhvar in his praise refers to the Lord as being beautiful and at his radiant best. He describes the Lord as having lotus eyes and wears Tulasi garlands. He says that the flower groves of Thiru Moozhikalam give out nectar like drops. Nam Azhvaar in his opening verse of praise on this location asks the true devotees to go to Thiru Moozhikalam to invoke the blessings of the 'pot dancer'.
தூது உரைத்தல் செப்புமின்கள் தூ மொழி 
வாய் வண்டு இனங்காள் 

போது இறைத்து  மது நுகரும் பொழில் 
மூழிக்களத்து உறையும் 

மாதரைத் தம் மார்வகத்தே வைத்தார்க்கு 
என் வாய் மாற்றம் 
தூது  உரைத்தல் செப்புதிரேல் சுடர்வளையும் களையுமே 


While the Divya Desams around Chenganur relate to the legend from Mahabaratha, this Divya Desam in Thiru Moozhikalam dates back to the Ramayana period and is a temple dedicated to Lakshmana. This is one of the four temples in this region relating to the four brothers.

Baratha, who came in search of Rama, was suspected by Lakshmana to have come to battle with Raama. Lakshmana is said to have prepared himself to taking on Baratha only to be cooled down by Raama. Having wrongly suspected his brother Baratha, Lakshmana is believed to have come here to repent for his wrong doing. Much later, it became a tradition here to worship Lakshmana as the Moolavar deity.

How to reach
Thiru Moozhikalam is about 10kms from Angamaley off the Thrissur- Ernakulam Rail route.This is around 30kms from Ernakulam on the Mala Road. Buses every 15 minutes from Alwaye (Aluva) to this temple.

3.   3. Thiru Varan Vilai – Aranmula Parthasarathy Temple


Located about 10kms East of Chengannur Divya Desam on the Southern banks of the Pamba river on the Pathanamthitta State Highway is the Thiru Kuralappan Divya Desam in Aranmul, said to have been built by Arjuna. This Divya Desam has been praised by Namazhvar as Thiru Vaaran Vilai and symbolises Arjuna’s thanks giving gesture to his sarathy (charioteer) Krishna who guided him through the Mahabaratha war. Arjuna undertook penance here to repentfor the killings of his relatives, especially his brother Karna, who he unceremoniously killed when his chariot was grounded to the earth.

Namazhvar, who refers to Thiru Varan Vilai as one of great fame, praises the Lord as one who is seen amidst groves and surrounded by gardens. Similar to the many of the Divya Desams in Tamil Nadu, this Divya Desam was full of mansions that were so tall that Namzhvar visualised it as almost touching the sky. The devotees of the time were seen worshipping the Lord  in every way possible, through their deeds, with a good heart and by uttering pure words.

Ornaments for Sabarimala Lord
Lord Ayyappa’s ornaments are kept here through the year and are taken from here to Sabarimala 2 days prior to the Mandala Vilakku during the Makara Jyothi period.

The Aranmula Boat Race is  a popular event and takes place at the Pamba River which runs right next to the Aranmula Divya Desam.

Festivals
10 day Brahmotsavam in January
Big Pushpa Abhishekam in May
12 day Kalapam Festival in November when the Lord is decorated completely with Chandanam- a beautiful sight to watch
In March every year, the Goddess from Punnan Thottam temple, about a km east of this temple visits the Aranmula Divya Desam and the two are seen together for a day.
Tulabharam, an age old practice, continues to take place at this temple.

Priest Krishna Kumar Namboodari @ 94471 16689 or 0468 2212170

How to reach
The temple is 10kms East of Chengannur. There are buses from the Chengannur bus stand, opposite the railway station.   An auto from the Chengannur Railway Station to the Puliyoor Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-.

 4.  Thiru Puliyoor - Bheema Kshetram

Namazhvar refers to this place as ‘Kutta Nattu’ Thiru Puliyur as distinguished from the Sirupuliyur 
(near Mayiladuthurai) praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar.  Bheema  undertook penance at this place and created the Puliyoor Divya Desam. Hence, this place is referred to as Bheema Kshetram. On a direction from Lord Vishnu, Indra came on a Tiger and killed the demon at this place. Hence, this place has come to be referred as called ‘Puli’yur.

Festivals
Makara Atham Nakshatram - Brahmotsavam
Thiruvonam Makara Sankara Nakshatram- Kavadi Aattam

The temple is located  6kms West of Chengannur Railway Station on the Mavalikera Highway. Contact Unni Krishnan Namboodari @  99478 31069, 0479-246 4825

5.  5.    Thiru Chittaru Imayavarappan Divya Desam, Chenganur

Referred to as the Dharmaraja temple, the East facing Imayavarappan Divya Desam in Chengannur has been praised by Namazhvar as Thiru Chittaru temple in Thiru Chenkundroor.  This is one of the five Pandava brothers related temples in this region.

Unhappy at the death of his cousins in the Mahabaratha war, Dharma Raja, the eldest of the Pandava brothers, came to this place and built this temple. This is believed to be the first of the Vishnu temples built by the Pandavas in this region.

Festivals
Panguni Ashta Nakshatram 10 day Brahmotsavam
Ashtami-Rohini- Birthday celebrations of Krishna
Dasavatharam Utsavam- The Lord gets decorated in different avatarams. On the last day, he takes on the Mohini Avataram
January -7 day Sapthaham Festival- During this Utsavam, Bhagavatham Parayanam takes place every day

The temple is 1km West of the Chengannur Railway Station. Contact Mohan Rao @ 94976 74799 or 0479 2456672

 6. Thiru Vanvandur Pambanai Appan temple
Namazhvar refers to the Pambanai Appan Temple as being on the Northern banks of the Pamba River in Thiruvanvandur. The Lord is seen here with Conch, Chakra, Spear and Mace. Nakula renovated the Thiruvanvandur temple. At the Western entrance, one finds sculptures relating to Kalinga Narthanam and Dasavatharam.

Namazhvar refers to this as a prosperous location where paddy trees grow tall. He refers to the Lord as being ‘Wealthy’.  One heard the sound of the conches at all times. The place reverberated amidst the chants of Vedic Seers. Namazhvar identifies the personality of the Lord as one with Discus and Conch and describes him as one with red lips, lotus eyes and feet.

Festivals
Ashtami-Rohini Krishna Festival, 11day Festival in Dhanur and 10 day Uthiratadhi festival in Kumbham are celebrated in a grand way at the temple.

Contact priest Parameswaran @ 0479 2427808

How to reach:
The temple is located about 7kms North of Chengannur and about 5kms South West of Thiruvalla on the Erimala route. Auto from Thiruvalla bus stand will cost Rs.125/-

7. Thiruvazh Marban in Thiruvalla 

At the Thiru Vazhmarban Divya Desam in Thiruvalla, the Lord is seen in a standing posture facing the East. The sanctum is in such a way that one cannot see the feet of Thiru Vazhmarban.  The Moolavar Lord is also known by the names of Vallabhan and Kolapiran. This place is referred to as the ‘Vallabha Kshetram’.

Lord Vallbhan disguised himself as a Brahmachari and killed an asura with his chakra. The Chakra is said to have fallen at the place where the temple is situated currently. It is a tradition to organise Kathakali to invoke the blessings of Lord Vallabhan. Another tradition is that the Lord is presented with 12000 ripe bananas, half of which is distributed to the devotees.

Thirumangai Azhvaar, who has not sung praises of too many of the Malai Naatu Divya Desam Lords, has dedicated 10 verses to Thiruvalla Lord and has referred to the Lord as ‘Valla Vaazh’. 
உருவின்  ஆர்பிரவிசேர்ஊன்பொதிநரம்பு
தோல்குரம்பையுள்புக்கு
அருவிநோய்செய்துநின்று,
ஐவர்தாம்வாழ்வதற்குஅஞ்சினாயேல்

திருவின்ஆரவேதம்நான்குஐந்துதீ
வேல்வியோடுஅங்கம்ஆறும்
மருவினார்வல்லவாழ்சொல்லுமாவல்லை
ஆய்மருவுநெஞ்சே

One can find a number of historical inscriptions inside the temple. There are references to the Thiruvalla Lord in Garuda Puranam and Matsya Puranam.

The other Thiru Vazhmarban temple in Malai Naatu Divya Desam is in Thiruvan Parisaram http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/04/thiruvazhmarban-in-thiruvanparisaram.html

NamAzhvar in his praise refers to a large number of Areca trees and Jasmine gardens around the temple. The Punnai, Magil and Madhavi flowers give a great fragrance to the devotees as they make their way to the temple. Here too, Vedic recital was a regular feature and compares their rendition to the roaring of the sea in high waves.  Namazhvar also refers to thick smoke from Vedic sacrifices that darken the sky.  Repeatedly he refers to the tall groves of Thiruvallaval and water lilies and lotus flowers growing in the water tanks of the temple. He also makes a mention of Sugarcane and Paddy fileds at Thiru Valla.

Festivals
10 day Festival in Poosam
Kathakali Festival is the most popular festival at this temple
Every Saturday morning, there is a special pooja

Contact PK Unnikrishnan Pothi/ Govindan Namboodhari  0469 2700191

How to reach Thiruvalla:
Thiruvalla is located about 30kms South of Kottayam on the Ernakulam-Kottayam-Kayankulam rail route. The temple is about 4kms from the railway station. An auto from the station to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-.  There are buses every10minutes from Kottayam to Thiruvalla.

8. Thiru Kadithanam, Chenganaseri 

The Arputha Narayanan Divya Desam in Thiru Kadithanam is one of the important Kadigai Kshetrams. Legend has it that those who visit the Arputha Narayana Perumal Koil in Changanachery and stay here for at least one Kadigai (24minutes) will be liberated from all sins/curses. Also read http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/03/sholingur-narasimha-at-thiru-kadigai.html

Namazhvar praises the Lord as one seen with Lakshmi on his chest. He says that Vedic recital was a regular feature at Thiru Kadithanam. Kalpa trees were abound in large numbers.

அற்புதன்நாராயணன்அறிவாமணன்
நிற்பதுமேவிஇருப்பதுஎன்நெஞ்சகம்
நில்புகழ்வேதியர்நான்மறைநின்றுஅதிர
கற்பகச்சோலைத்திருகடித்தானமே

Sahadeva is said to have consecrated this temple. This is one of the special Krishna temples in India specifically dedicated for moksham.

There was a festival of dance here at this temple. The belief was that ladies dancing with buckets on top of their head and undertaking prayers to Lord Arputha Narayanan helped them conceive. 10day festival in Virchigam and Narasimha Jayanthi are celebrated in a grand way at the temple.

The temple is 4kms east of the Chenganancheri Railway Station (Kottayam-Kayankulam rail route)
Contact  Vasudevan Namboodari @  94972 22107 or 0481 2435711. An auto from the Chenganacheri Railway Station to the Divya Desam will cost Rs.100/-

9. Thiru Vithuvakkodu - Five Idols temple near Pattambi 

On the western banks of Baratha Puzha River, off the Pattambi – Guruvayur highway is the Uyavantha Perumal Divya Desam at Thiru Vithuvakkodu. The Lord has been praised by Kulasekara Azhvar. Arjuna, Dharmaputra, Bheema and Nakula/Sahadeva created an idol each for their daily poojas at this temple. The main Moolavar deity was installed by Arjuna.  Dharma Raja installed the idol on Southern side as did Nakula and Sahadeva. Bheema installed the idol of Vishnu on the Northern side.

Pleased with a rishi’s prayer, Kasi Viswanathar found himself a small place in the umbrella of the rishi. After his bath, the rishi found the umbrella broken and found a swayambu idol of Lord Shiva at this place. Later, a separate temple was built for Shiva. Hence, this place is referred to as the ‘5 idols’ temple.

Festivals
Janmashtami, Shivarathri are celebrated in a grand way.  Kalababhisekam is presented on Vaikasi Mrigaseesham

The temple is about 5kms South of Pattambi off the Palghat- Shoranur- Kozhikode rail route

Contact Ravichandran and Ramachandran Embranthari @  98460 92853

How to reach:
An auto from Pattambi Railway Station to this Divya Desam (about 7kms) and back will cost Rs.150/-.

10. Thiru Navai
Only Divya Desam in Kerala with a separate Sannidhi for Thaayar 

On the Northern Banks of Barathapuzha River is the Navai Mukundan Divya Desam, praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvar and Namazhvar.  The Lord is seen in an East Facing Standing Posture. On the other side of the river are temples for Lord Shiva and Brahmma. Hence this is said to be a Tri Murthy Sangamam 

Goddess Lakshmi and Gajendran wanted to adorn Lord Narayana with Lotus flowers. However, Gajendran could not locate the flowers and undertook prayers here to Narayana, who asked Goddess to stop plucking the Lotus flowers, thus providing an opportunity to Gajendran to adorn the lord with flowers. Goddess Lakshmi is said to have asked the Lord to provide her with an equal status at this temple. Hence, there is a separate sannidhi for the Goddess here, the only Divya Desam in Kerala.

Nava Yogis undertook penance at this place and are said to have installed the idol at this place. Hence, this place was referred to as Thiru ‘Naa’ ‘Vaai’.

Parasurama performed Tharpanam for his father at this place. Hence, this Kshetram is auspicious for performing ‘Pitru Tharpanam’.

Azhvaar Praise
Thiru Mangai in one of his 2 paasurams refers to Thiru Navai Lord alongside Koshtiyur Divya Desam and Thiru Naraiyur Naachiyar Koil.

கம்பமாகளிறுஅஞ்சிக்கலங்க, ஓர்
கொம்புகொண்டகுறைகழல்கூத்தினை
கொம்புஉலாம்பொழில்கொட்டியுர்க்கண்டுபொய்
நம்பனைச்சென்றுகாண்டும்நாவாயுலே” -1856

In another verse, Thiru Mangai Azhvar refers to seeing the Thiru Navai Lord at Thiru Naraiyur

தூவாயபுள்ஊர்ந்துவந்து, துறைவேழும்
மூவாமை, நல்கி, முதலைதுணித்தானை
தேவாதிதேவனை, செங்கமலக்கண்ணானை
நாவாய்உளானைநறையூரில்கண்டேனே”- 1520

Festivals
10 day festival in April (14-23)

NamAzhvar's Praise of Thiru Navai Devotee
Devotees who think of him and invoke his blessings with sincere devotion will be blessed says Namazhvar in his opening verse in praise of the Lord of Thiru Navai.


அறுக்கும் வினையாயின ஆகத்து அவனை 
நிறுத்தும் மனத்து ஒன்றிய சிந்தையினார்க்கு 

வெறித்தன் மலர்ச் சோலைகள் சூழ் 
திரு நாவாய் 
குறுக்கும் வகை உண்டுகொலோ கொடியேற்கே 


Contact Narayana Namboodari 0494 2603747 or 93876 34946

How to reach
Thiru Nava is about 30kms West of Shoranur on the Palghat - Kozhikode rail route. Take Chennai Central-Mangalore Mail and get down at Kuttipuram Station (630am arrival). A local bus from outside the station will take you to the Divya Desam in 20minutes. Auto from Kuttipuram Station to Thiru Navai Divya Desam will cost Rs.200/-

Not many trains stop at Thiru Navaya Railway station. An auto from Navaya station to the Divya Desam (about 2kms) will cost Rs.30-40/-. Accommodation is available here opposite the temple.

Thiru Kannangudi Divya Desam

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Renovation of the Damodara Narayana Perumal Divya Desam at Rs. 1 crore but Bhattar’s Salary remains in Three Digits

Prabhakara Bhattar's devotional commitment keeps him all alone at the Thiru Manai Azhvaar praised temple near Nagapattinam

Not too long ago, the Damodara Narayana Perumal Divya Desam in Thiru Kannangudi praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar was in a dilapidated condition. The Thiru Madaipalli was crumbling down as was the Azhvaar Sannidhi. The worst of the lot was the Ramanuja Sannidhi at the Eastern Entrance of the temple. Ahead of the 1000th year, the sannidhi lay in a completely damaged condition with the entrance to the sannidhi dug up. Conflicts between HR & CE, donors and the general public delayed the renovation efforts. Just a couple of years ago, one wondered if the renovation would see the light of the day such was the scenario then.

Praises the Divya Desam as one with Mansions and High Walls
Thiru Mangai Azhvaar praised the Lord as on in a Standing Posture before whom Vedic Seers chanted the sacred mantras. The temple during this period was surrounded by high walls and mansions, paddy fields and water tanks where different coloured lillies and lotuses were seen in large numbers. 
வங்க மா முந்நீர் வரி நிறப்  பெரிய 

வாள் அரவின் அணை மேவி 
சங்கமார் அம் கைத்தட மலர் உந்தி 
சாம மா மேனி என் தலைவன் 

அங்கம் ஆறு ஐந்து வேள்வி நால் வேதம் 
அருங் கலை பயின்று எறி மூன்றும் 
செங்கையால் வளர்க்கும் துளக்கம் இல் மனதோர் 
திருக்கண்ணங்குடியுள் நின்றானே 

Bananas, Jack Fruits and Mangoes were found among the numerous trees around the temple where peacocks danced happily to the tunes of the bees. 
கான் உலா மயிலின் கணங்கள் நின்று ஆடக் 
கண முகில் முரசம் நின்று அதிர 
தேன் உலாம் வரி வண்டு இன் இசை முரலும்
 திருக்கண்ணங்குடியுள் நின்றானே 

The mansions and the high walls as described above seem to be a thing of the past. There are no buses or any form of public transport to this Divya Desam. An auto from Azhiyur bus stop costs Rs. 50. 
While the major repair works were delayed for many years, the Raja Gopuram was painted as were the Vimanams. And yet other sannidhis remained in dilapidated state. Subsequently, caught in the middle of this fight and unable to proceed with the consecration, the then EO of the temple quit the Divya Desam. Twice Samprokshanam date had been fixed but was postponed. The priest remained a silent spectator amidst all this drama with his views on agama and the need for consecration falling on deaf ears. Thiru Koshtiyur Madhavan had taken up the renovation at the Divya Desam but there was opposition to his continuing the service. This too delayed the repair works. By this time, the paint in the Raja Gopuram had faded and wore an old look!!!

Finally, earlier this year, the temple authorities decided to speed up the final phase. And Samprokshanam was performed last month after almost two decades.

A Grand New Look
The temple now wears a never before seen fresh look. The Raja Gopuram and the Vimanams have been repainted.  The previously damaged sannidhis have been restored to old glory. It is the best this temple has looked for many decades. There is a certain positive vibration inside the temple especially watching the devotional commitment of Prabhakara Bhattar who has been managing the aradhana and utsavams all alone for the last 10 years.

Renovation at Rs. 1crore, Monthly Salary in the 100s- Why?
As is the case with many Divya Desams, despite this renovation of the temple complex and the sannidhis at a cost of almost Rs. 1 crore, the salary of the priest remains in three digits. How would a single Bhattar manage an entire Divya Desam and multiple sannidhis all alone at a three digit monthly salary?
He is now in the middle of the 48 day mandalabhishekam. For a fortnight now, he has been having his first meal of the day at 2pm but no one really cares. Devotees are impatient and want a quick darshan of Perumal and Thayar for they are keen to move on to the next Divya Desam. 

HR & CE officials have done the renovation work through the donors and they are basking in glory of the new look. New hundials have been placed all along the Perumal Sannidhi. 

Long Hours at the Temple at minimal salary
6 hours in the 1sthalf and 4+ hours in the 2nd half, day in day out through the year without any substitutes and all for a few hundred rupees. That's the life of Prabhakara Bhattachar at the Kannangudi Divya Desam. For one who had previously served at the Nandipura Vinnagaram Divya Desam at Nathan Koil for a decade, it is all down to the presentations in the Thattu by devotees to help him see through each day. 

How to reach
Thiru Kannangudi is just under 10kms from Nagapattinam off the Tiruvarur Highway. Get down at Azhiyar to reach the temple (2kms) by auto or walk. When here, also visit Pancha Narayana Kshetram (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/08/anantha-narayana-perumal-aabaranadhari.html).

Thirumeni Azhagar Temple Mahendra Palli

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Thiru Gnana Sambandar praised the Lord as ‘Azhagar’ and compares the Lord to the ones at Thiru Kailayam, Thiruvarur and Thiruvanaikaval 

As with other HR & CE administered temples in TN, the priest, whose family had served the Lord through the 20th Century, is now paid a daily wage of Rs.20!!
10kms East of Achalpuram off the Alakkudi road on the banks of Kollidam is the ancient Thiru Gnana Sambandar praised Thirumeni Azhagar (Sundareswarar) temple in Mahendra Palli. This is the farthest location in the East in the region and there is no path across the Kollidam to reach the other side.

In his verses of praise on Mahendra Palli, Thiru Gnana Sambandar compares the greatness of this temple with Thiru Kailayam, Thiruvarur and Thiruvanaikaval.
A Vibrant Thevaram Sthalam
Till half a century ago, the Lord provided darshan to devotees on different vahanas. One finds a big temple tank at the Eastern end where Theppotsavam was conducted till the 1960s.

Senthil Gurukal has been performing pooja at the temple for over three decades and now gets just Rs. 20 per day as salary from the HR&CE but he continues to perform service to the Lord with sincerity. His father and grandfather had taken care of the temple for almost 100 years at miniscule salary. 
Special Features
Between the 7th and 13th day in Panguni, the Sun’s rays fall directly on the Lord. A unique feature at the temple is that Nandi’s neck is slightly tilted to the left.
The Saint Poet, who attained Mukthi near here at Achalpuram, has praised the beauty of the Lord and refers to him as ‘Thirumeni Azhagar’, the one with handsome features.  He also refers to Indra, Chandra, the Sun God and the great rishis as having performed pooja at Mahendra Palli.
 சந்திரன் கதிரவன் தகுபுகழயனெடும்
இந்திரன் வழிபட இருந்தவெம் இறையவன்
மந்திர மறைவளர் மயேந்திர பள்ளியுள்
அந்தமில் அழகனை யடிபணிந் துய்ம்மினே


There are still a few traditional houses in the agraharam that was once home to Saivites and Vaishnavites. There is also a big Perumal temple in Mahendrapalli, that has been recently renovated.
Dilapidated State
Such a historical temple with distinguishing features is now seen in a bad shape. Most of the Vahanas had been damaged and for decades there have been no vahana processions at this temple. 
The Temple tank is now dry with the Theppotsavam not having taken place in the last 50 years. The outer walls of the temple are seen in a broken state. The madaipalli has been non functional for a long time. In the middle of all this, the Gurukal is seen performing the daily service to the Lord with utmost commitment having imbibed the values from his forefathers who too served without much financial returns. 

It is hoped that the HR & CE will restore this historical temple to its past glory and also revive the grand utsavams. It is also hoped that the HR & CE will increase the salary of the priest to a fair level in line with the current cost of living.

The temple is open from 7am -1130am and from 5pm-730pm. Contact Senthil Gurukal @ 97511 00938.

How to reach
Mahendrapallil is 15kms East of Kollidam ( Chidambaram-Sirkazhi Highway) and 10kms East of the Thiru Gnana Sambandar Mukthi Sthalam of Achalpuram

Buses ply every hour between Kollidam and Mahendrapalli along a winding road amidst green fields. Auto at Mahendrapalli - Palani @ 90473 47357.

A version of this story featured in The Hindu Friday Review

Sirupuliyur Divya Desam

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One Legged Srikanthan Bhattar has been instrumental in the revival of this once prominent Thiru Mangai Azhvaar praised temple 

He serves the Lord each day of the year with an artificial leg 

Till half a century ago, Sirupuliyur, a Divya Desam gloriously praised by Thiru Mangai Azhvaar, was so prominent among the temples in the erstwhile Chozha kingdom, that it was the main supplier of archakas to other Perumal temples in the region. Such was the vibrancy in the agraharam that this temple town reverberated with Prabhandham Recital and Vedic Chanting all through the year. There were 365 acres of land belonging to the temple and rice was available in plenty at the temple for food presentation to the Lord.

During the time of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar, it stood out as a devotional location for he praises it as one where Vedic Seers chanted the Vedas continuously. It is hard to believe that the sea shore would be so close to Sirupuliyur as it now at least 25 kms away!!! But Thiru Mangai Azhvaar refers to gems being washed all across Sirupuliyur from the eastern sea shore. He says that the temple was surrounded by green fields on one side and by the ocean on the other.

பறையும்வினைதொழுதுஉய்ம்மின்
நீர்பணியும்சிறுதொண்டீர்
அறையும்புனல்ஒருபால்வயல்ஒருபால்பொழில்ஒருபால்
சிறைவந்துஇனம்அறையும்
சிறுபுலியூர்ச்சலசயனத்து
உறையும்இறைஅடிஅல்லது
ஒன்றுஇறையும்அறியேனே

As with many other remote Divya Desams, the changing political climate in the State in the 1960s and 70s led to a dramatic downturn in this temple town, one that lasted 3 decades.

G Venkata Gopalan Bhattar is 77 years old now and still active at the temple. He was in his prime when the political take over and HR &CE’s ascendancy to power hit temples across Tamil Nadu. His grandfather had served at the temple for many decades in the glory days in the late 1800s and the early 1900s. His father Govinda Bhattachar too served at the temple for several decades till his death in 1968.

Moves away from Sirupuliyur
Soon after his thread ceremony, Venkata Gopala Bhattar began learning agamas from Srinivasa Bhattar at Thiruvazhundur Divya Desam in the early 1950s. With the overall negative scenario at Sirupuliyur that also included strong opposition to temple activities from the non-traditional residents, he moved to Kuttalam (near Therazhundur Divya Desam) about 25kms West of Sirupuliyur to perform services at the Aadhi Kesava Perumal temple where he remained for three decades performing pooja at a salary of a couple of hundreds. His three sons grew up in Kuttalam.  
Right from his school days in the early 1990s, Srikanthan Bhattar, the 2nd son, began supporting his father at the temple in Kuttalam. After his school, he would go to Therazhundur to learn agamas from the revered Kannan Bhattar (father of Vasan Bhattar) who passed away a few years ago. Even back then, as a young boy, Srikanthan Bhattar’s mind was set on reviving Sirupuliyur Divya Desam where his forefathers had served for so long and he missed being at his hereditary location.

Grim Situation at the Divya Desam
The once vibrant agraharam looked deserted. Samprokshanam had been performed in 1973 but that was just white washing the outer walls. The Brahmotsavam came to a halt in the 1970s including the once popular chariot festival. Over time, the two chariots, one for Perumal and another for Manavala Mamunigal, suffered damage. During those dark decades, almost all the festivals came to a standstill. There were just three utsavam days - Vaikunta Ekadasi, Panguni Uthiram and Vaikasi Hastham- in the entire year. 

By the 1980s, the entire lot of the traditional residents of the agraharam had left Sirupuliyur seeking greener pastures. There was just one man left - the accountant at the temple. There had been no processions for two decades. The entire complex was dark with no lighting. There were no personnel in the madaipalli. No one could adapt to the traditional lifestyle at an ancient temple town. Even today there is none. Seeing the deplorable state of this Divya Desam, the now renowned Vasan Bhattar of Therazhundur, then in his 20s, used to cycle 15kms from Therazhundur to perform aradhana for the Aruma Kadal Lord at Sirupuliyur.

On AV Rangachari’s (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/08/chidambaram-thillai-thiru-chitrakoodam.html) request, Venkata Gopalan Bhattar came back to Sirupuliyur in the late 1990s at a salary of Rs. 300 per month. By then, his elder son had moved to Banaswadi Perumal Koil, in Bombay.

Life Changing Story
When Srikanthan Bhattar was growing up in the late 1980s and 90s, even 10-15 rupees brought home by his father would delight the family as it helped in the everyday sustenance. The key was Srikanthan Bhattar did not choose to go away in frustration. Instead he chose to remain devotional committed to Kripa Samudra Perumal who his forefathers had served and one that Thiru Mangai Azhvaar had praised as the ‘Lord in my Heart’ and as one who provides the devotees with a positive change in life.

கள்ளம்மனம்விள்ளும்வகை,
கருதிக்கழல்தொழுவீர்
வெள்ளம்முதுபரவைத்திரைவிரிய
கரையெங்கும்தெள்ளும்மணிதிகழும்
சிறுபுலியூர்சலசயனத்துள்ளும்
எனதுஉள்ளத்துள்ளும்
உறைவாரைஉள்ளீரே

Srikanthan Bhattar, then not even in his teens read a story in the 1990s narrating the pitiable state of the Sirupuliyur temple. Citing the scenario of even Oil and Thiri not being available to light even a single lamp, the story requested devotees to present these at this divya desam so at least one lamp could be lit. Srikanthan promised that day that he would serve the Lord of Sirupuliyur for the rest of his life and would work towards reviving the Divya Desam. Ever since, his sole aim in life has been to get the temple back to its past glory.

It was Vasan Bhattar who helped anchor the revival of the utsavams, first with a five day Brahmotsavam. He was a mentor to many of the archakas in the region and he played an active role at Sirupuliyur in supporting the initiatives of Srikanthan Bhattar.

Letting go one’s EGO
The legend of this Divya Desam relates to a story on the letting go of one’s ego. Believing that he was closer to the Lord and performing better service to the Lord, Garuda questioned the role and service contribution of Adisesha. When the latter sought the help of the Lord, HE provided darshan here at Sirupuliyur in a Bala Posture like a young boy and slept atop Adisesha. Humbled at the lesson, Garuda realized his mistake and stood on the ground. Hence at this Divya Desam, Garuda is seen in a unique posture of standing low on the ground. From a devotion point of view, Thiru Mangai Azhvaar says that not just humans but also Gods in large numbers visited Sirupuliyur to have darshan of Sala Sayana Perumal who he praises as one seen in a sleeping posture atop the five hooded Adiseshan.

Referring to the kid like image of the Lord, he says that he not seen any Lord like this anywhere else. And as an indication of the two rishis at the feet of the Lord, he says that those who worship the Lord’s feet at Sirupuliyur will find a positive change of heart towards devotion. He asks the devotees to surrender to the Salasayanam Lord and see for themselves as to how their sins are cleansed. 
Every day when Srikanthan Bhattar narrates the Sthala Puranam to devotees and presents aloud the verses of Thiru Mangai Azhvaar from the Periya Thirumozhi, he remembers the legend and the tale of the temple town that once was and reminds himself to dedicate his life to the Lord and to seek nothing else. And that’s how he has lived the last two decades at this Divya Desam.

The Revival over the last decade
When he joined the temple just under two decades ago as a teenager, his first priority was to provide basic amenities to visiting devotees- bath and toilet facilities outside the temple. In those days, his mother, who sported a smile all the time (she passed away all of a sudden over a decade ago) played a great host to all visitors to this Divya Desam feeding them to a sumptuous meal despite a financially challenging situation in the family.

He then went about reviving the utsavams. In 2007, Srikanthan Bhattar revived the Pavitrotsavam with the help of Vasan Bhattar who has been an integral part of the transformation at this temple. Earlier this decade, the temple saw a full scale renovation for the first time in a century giving it a fresh look. While the samprokshanam in 1973 was followed by two dark decades, this samprokshanam 4 decades later in 2012 led to a complete revival of the temple. Brahmotsavam was restarted with vahana processions. 

Last week in recognition of Vasan Bhattar’s three decades of support, Srikanthan Bhattar, in a thanking gesture, posted a large banner outside the temple during the Pavitrotsavam.

A road accident that took away a leg
In February 2013, a bus ran over Srikanthan Bhattar’s legs and he lost a leg in the accident. HR & CE and the TN Government did nothing to compensate. It was Vasan Bhattar who through devotees helped him have an artificial leg planted. For six years, he has continued to serve the Lord in the same devotionals manner as before despite getting a salary of just around Rs. 1000 per month, an amount completely inadequate these days. Srikanthan Bhattar is currently in the process of building two new chariots, one for Perumal Brahmotsavam and another for the Manavala Mamunigal utsavam at a cost of over Rs. 30 Lakhs. Srikanthan Bhattar and his father also double up as the cook in the madapalli. Srikanthan Bhattar is also the one who over the last decade has decorated the Lord ensuring a certain grandeur in terms of jewels and vastrams. 

It is solely due to the efforts of such devotionally committed Bhattars that remote Divya Desams have stayed alive and continued into the next generation.

Kripasamudram Perumal Divya Desam in Sirupuliyur is open from 730am-12noon and 5pm to 830pm. Contact Srikanthan Bhattar @ 91598 67324.

How to reach Sirupuliyur
Sirupuliyur is 2kms from Kollumangudi and about 10kms from Mayiladuthurai on the Tiruvarur highway. Auto from Kollumangudi will cost Rs. 75.

Senkalipuram Perumal Temple

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Twin Temples of Parimala Ranganatha and Varadaraja Perumal whose legend relates to previous Yugams

Birth Place of Anantharama Dikshithar
                              Kalyanam Bhattachar
87 year old SB Kalyanaraman (popularly known as Kalyanam) Bhattachar has spent his entire life in the agraharam at Senkalipuram, the birth place of the renowned Anantharama Dikshithar and a location historically renowned for Vedic recital. His devotional service to Lord Parimala Ranganatha, who is seen with 6 fingers on one hand, has not dropped a wee bit in the seven decades of service that he has rendered and despite his old age, he is ever ready to serve the visiting devotees.

It was the revered Swaminathan Dikshithar who taught Kalyanaraman Bhattachar’s father and Anantharama Dikshithar Vedic lessons in this very agraharam.  Swaminathan Dikshithar had told Kalyanam Bhattar’s father that the temple in its current form and structure was at least 400 years old.

Anantharama Dikshithar would visit the Perumal Temple every day and collect Theertham from Kalyanam Bhattar.

கல்யாணரூபாயக்ளுஜனானாம்
கல்யாணதாத்ரேகருணாசுதாப்தே
கம்ப்வாதிதிவ்யாயுத  சத்கராய
வாதால  யதல்சநமோநமஸ்த்தே

நாராயணநாராயண...

Be ever in Service to the Lord
Kalyanarama Bhattachar says that his father’s message was very clear “Do not leave the service at the temple under any circumstance." He was completely dedicated to the Lord and wanted me to continue through my life.


This ancient temple town is surrounded on all four sides by prominent ancient saivite temples amidst fertile green lands. Choleswarar Temple in the East, Dundubeeswarar in the West, Viswanathar temple in the South and a temple dedicated to Lord Muruga were historical temples. Growth for a large part was always in excess till the first half of the 20th century. Villagers would come and present their harvest to the Lord. Overall it was a lively atmosphere in this temple town.


In the first half of the 20th century, 60 Kalam Paddy was given to the Bhattars for their services. As with many other temples in Tamil Nadu, the lands belonging to the temples here too were whisked away in the 1960s and 70s. There is still 100 acres of land belonging to the temple but no income accrues. The salary from the 1960s and 70s dropped drastically and there came a time when there was no salary paid to the Bhattar.

Kalyanam Bhattar remembers the good old days when  agraharam was vibrant with around 200 traditional families, most of them Smarthas residing at this historical location. There was an ancient patshala where Kalyanam Bhattar did Veda Adyayanam. For several decades, he presented Upanyasam across the state.  

On the occasion of Avani Avittam, over 100 families came to the Ranganatha temple to invoke the blessings of the Lord.  Festivals were grand once upon a time with Vahana processions of the Lord. Those too came to a halt 50 years ago and remained so for a couple of decades. Chariot festival too was grand at this temple. 

The Legend
Kalyanam Bhattar stresses the legend of the location to establish its historical importance. It was here that after the demolition of Madhu-Kaidapar, the Lord cleansed his chakra in the Chakkarai Theertham in Senkalipuram. When the rishis suggested that he was contaminating the Kulam by washing the weapon that was used to kill, he told them that this entire place would become sacred as he has put an end to the asuras’ violence and hence will become a renowned location, much to their delight.

Another story goes that Prahalada undertook penance here to relieve himself from Pithru Hathi Dosham. When Jalamedha, the grandson of the Pandavas performed a Sarpa Yagna, his hands shrunk as a result of the killing of the snakes. He is believed to have undertaken penance here to relieve himself from the dosham.

The recovery of the idol
During the Muslim invasion, the idols had been buried under the sand and a big mound accumulated.
Centuries ago, a sadhu, seen not seen in a great mental frame, shouted about the presence of Lord. When the farmers came to the agraharam to sell their harvest, the sadhu once again shouted out the name of the Lord. The farmers who had come there with sickels dug the place and unearthed a Lord sleeping atop Adisesha with two and a half furls. An invisible voice asked them to stop and hence in a unique posture, Lord Parimala Ranganatha is seen in a unique posture atop Adishesha with 2 ½ furls.

Kalyanarama Bhattar initiated his sons and grandsons into the agamas and Vedas directing them to continue the service at the temple. While there is not much of a salary, grandson Balaji Bhattar has stuck to this service with great devotion. With support from devotees, they have revived the Brahmotsavam in Maasi and also are performing the Pavitrotsavam. Over the last few years, devotee crowd has increased but it is still not enough to manage a family, financially. Balaji Bhattar makes ends meet by performing Homams and participating in Samprokshanams. 

Most of the traditional inhabitants had quit the agraharam by the 80s leaving the Bhattar family as one of the few. It is to their great credit that this family that has performed aradhana at this temple for several generations has continued to serve in tough and challenging times with the monthly salary paid by HR &CE not enough to run a family.  Kalyanaraman Bhattar is happy that in the most challenging of decades, the family stayed back to serve the Lord unmindful of the low salary.

The temple is open from 7am -1130am and from 5pm to 730pm. Contact Kalyanarama Bhattachar @ 94441 61609 / Balaji Bhattar @ 83001 81629/63811 87235

How to reach
Senkalipuram is 4kms from Kodavasal off the Kumbakonam – Tiruvarur Highway and under 10kms from Thiru Cherai Divya Desam. Auto from Kodavasal will cost Rs. 150.

Thiruvaimur Thiruvaimurnathar Temple

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Saptha Vidanga Kshetram
The story of how a devoted hereditary Gurukal understood the psyche of the current generation of devotees and created a monthly utsavam to bring crowds back at this Thevaram Sthalam

On Thei Pirai Ashtami every month, a Homam is performed for Bairavar, an event watched with devotion by over 2000 people
42 year old Pichumani Gurukal has been at the Appar and Thiru Gnana Sambandar praised Thiruvamunathar temple in Thiruvaimur, a location so remote that there are no bus facilities to this temple, for the last three decades. So attached was he to this temple that even as a young boy, he would run fast from the school to come and assist his father, who served for over 50 years at a salary of Rs 60 at the temple. Not too far in the distant past, the entire village ( and the lands) belonged to the temple.  Close to 25 people worked at the temple.  Utsavams were vibrant. His mind was not too focused on academics.  He learnt the Agamas from father, now 76 years old Panchakshara Shivachariar, a Sanskrit Samrat and one of the most respected in the region. His father is the sthaneegam at the Murugan temple in Ettukudi, where he continues to perform service at this grand old age. Pichu mani Guru kal's grandfather tooo hand server athu the temple for several decades.

Even as Pichumani Gurukal grew up, he saw a steep deterioration in the finances at the temple. Income from the lands dried up. Salary of the priests and the service personnel did not go up even as the cost of living rose drastically in the passing decades. Brahmotsavam came to a halt over three decades ago as did many of the other annual utsavams at the temple. While the priests have been here for several generations and continued to serve Lord, the service personnel began leaving the temple one by one and there are just three of them a scenario that would have broken the heart of many priests but the ones from this family.

With his devotional commitment coming to the forefront, Pichumani Gurukal brought together the residents of this ancient temple town. While many issues remain including the issue of low salary to the priest, he has with the support from the villagers revived the Vaikasi Brahmotsavam. Abhisekam for the Lord is done six times in the year.

Thei Pirai Ashtami Utsavam
As part of his revival initiatives, Pichumani highlighted the special features of the Ashta Bairavar, a differentiated Sannidhi at this temple. And this got the devotees interested as many found their problems being sorted out through the special pooja and homam he performed on Thei Perai Ashtami. And as the word spread, devotees are now thronging the temple in 1000s on the ashtami day every month.  Over 2000 people are fed on this day after the Homam and Pooja. 

As with many other ancient temples (Patteeswaram Durgai (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2017/07/patteeswaram-thiru-gnana-sambanthar.html) and Thirunallur Saneeswarar being cases in point), the original history has been lost to the devotees of the current generation and they have taken to the parikara and prarthana route to this temple. As he went through challenging times in the first two decades of his service at the temple, Pichumani Gurukal realized the psyche of the devotees. And as he created this new belief of Ashta Bairavar solving all their problems, the temple atleast on the devotees front has seen a sudden transformation.

The Legendary Tale - Saptha Vidanga Sthalam
Indra sought Vishnu’s help to protect the Devas from an Asura. Vishnu handed him the idol of Thyagaraja and asked him to perform pooja. He also directed him to Chozha King Musukuntha, a great Saivite Devotees, as the asura had obtained the boon of being killed only by humans.

After the asura was killed, a delighted Indra took Musukunta to his abode. An invisible voice directed him to take Thyagaraja’s idol to Thiruvarur.  When Indra offered a boon to the king for helping him win, the king asked for the idol leaving Indra stunned. That night, Indra asked sculptor Vishwakarma to make 6 similar idols. When Indra offered the king any of the 7 idols hoping that the king would not be able to distinguish the real one and would take one of the 6 that were created the previous night, Musukuntha Chozha with his true devotion identified the original one. Delighted with the sincerity of the king’s devotion to Lord Shiva, Indra handed him all the 7 idols. Musukuntha made his way to Thiruvarur in a Chariot procession and celebrated with a grand festival.

After installing the original one at Tiruvarur, he took the other 6 idols and installed it at Thiru Kolili, Thiru Kaaraayil, Thiru Maraikkadu, Thiru Vaimur, Thiru Nallaru and Thiru Nagai. These 7 are referred to as Saptha Vidanga Kshetram.

The story of Musukuntha, the Chozha King
Once while Shiva and Parvati were resting in the groves of Kailasam, a male monkey kept throwing Vilva leaves on them. Shiva intervened in time to prevent an irritated Parvati from uttering a curse on the monkey reminding her that it was Shivarathri and the monkey had indeed performed a divine deed by placing Vilva leaves on them. Thus, a likely curse turned into a blessing. The male monkey requested that he be born with a monkey face in memory of his previous birth and as a great devotee of Lord Shiva.  This was Musukuntha Chozha who ruled the Chozha kingdom with Karuvurai as his capital.

Appar and Thiru Gnana Sambandar's Praise
Appar in his Thiru Kurun Thogai and Thiru Gnana Sambandar in his Thiru Murai have praised the Lord of Thiruvaimur.
                                         Appar's Praise

The Temple is open from 630am -12noon and from 5pm-830pm. Contact Pichumani Gurukal @94880 77126
There are a number of inscriptions on the outer walls of the Prakara that date back a 1000 years.

How to reach
Thiruvaimur is 2kms from Ettukudi Murugan temple.  Buses every hour from Katchanam on the Thiruvarur -Thiruthuraipoondi Highway. Auto from Katchanam will cost Rs. 200.

From Thiruthuraipoondi, take the Nagapattinam bound bus and get down at Keezhaiyur. An auto from Keezhaiyur  to the temple will cost Rs. 50,

Ananthazhvaar Kirangur

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Descendant Ananthacharya has shown a remarkable devotional commitment in performing daily aradhana for Ananthazhvaan
in Kirangur at the age of 86

Decades of perseverance results in a Sannidhi and a beautiful garden for  Ananthzhvaar at this Avathara Sthalam near Srirangapatna

There was a long agraharam comprising of 50 houses and direct route to the Ranganathaswamy Temple in Srirangapatna from here
He is 86 years old and has a frail body. But that is no indication of the devotional commitment of this Octogenarian and his endeavour to showcase the significant contribution of his acharya Ananthazhvaar. Like old timers of the centuries gone by, he remains without food for several hours lost in the thought of his acharya. It is an age when one would typically sit back in an easy chair and relax. Not A Ananthacharya of Kirangur, a descendant of Ananthazhvaar. One can’t but admire his great devotional commitment to his acharya of almost 1000 years ago. Every morning at around 10am, he rides his TVS Scooty from his residence near the Ranganatha Swami temple in Srirangapatna (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2009/10/ranganatha-swamy-in-srirangapatna.html) through the Bangalore National Highway amidst high traffic to reach the Avathara Sthalam of Ananthazhvaan in Kirangur on the Pandavapura Highway.

He spends a few hours doing aradhana for the idol of Ananthazhvaar at the Sannidhi in his Avathara Sthalam, whose construction he anchored 15years ago. He then returns to his residence in the afternoon once again riding along the highway to have his first real meal of the day. On many days, he makes this return trip in the rain that usually hits this region in the afternoons. But amidst his devotional service to his acharya, he considers this as only a minor challenge. 
He also manages the Thiru Ananthazhvaar Sannidhi Trust that he launched for his acharya and sends a fair amount of time communicating in the second half of the day with the sishyas announcing the activities undertaken for Ananthazhvaar. This has been his daily routine over the last decade. Interestingly for his age, he is also quite well versed in computers.

His grandfather, almost 70 years ago, and subsequently his father had looked at re-acquiring the land at the Avathara Sthalam of Ananthazhvaar but could not do so. In the 1960s, 12 ½ cents of land was granted but was later taken back by the Government at ‘Upset Price’. It was only after his persistent efforts for several decades and against stiff opposition that he managed to acquire 45 cents of land just under two decades ago. Even that has not been fully handed over to the trust with only around 10% land having been physically secured by the Trust, which he launched at the beginning of this century.

Thiruvallikeni Adyapakas' Presentation
In the last few years, Divya Prabhandham Adyapakas ( https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/07/thiruvallikeni-prabhandham-ghosti.html) from Thiruvallikeni Divya Desam led by MA Venkatakrishnan have been presenting the sacred verses of the Azhvaars once a year in celebration of the contribution of Ananthazhvaar. This year, on July 27, a group of around 50 scholars presented the entire Periya Thirumozhi on a single day at the Avathara Sthalam in Kirangur.

A long Agraharam in Kirangur
In a survey undertaken during the British rule in the late 19the century, there is a record of an agraharam comprising of over 50 houses. Historically, there was also a direct route the Srirangapatna temple from the agraharam through the Cauvery.

Historical Tank
The Tank at this Avatharam Sthalam was a sole indication of the history of this location and Ananthacharya was keen to build a sannidhi for Ananthazhvaan at this very location. In fact as a young school boy in the 1940s, he would walk from Pandavapura to Srirangapatna crossing the Avathara Sthalam each day during those 9 years. Even then, as a school going kid, who was initiated by his father and grandfather into the legendary tale of his acharya, he had visualized doing something for Ananthazhvaan at this location. Decades later, when they dug up this location removing the huge amount of debris that had collected here, they found the steps to the tank.  
He began construction of the sannidhi through the trust. One now finds a huge nandavanam at this avathara sthalam with Ananthacharya also taking care of the maintenance of the garden. There is also a madaipalli from where the sacred presentations to the Lord are made and the Thaligai on the day there are scores of sishyas visiting the Sannidhi.

In his professional career, he went all over the state conducting survey as someone who was involved in the collection of statistics. For over 5 years, he also edited educational books of the NCERT. The extensive work done during that period gave him the resilience to continue his work in the devotional space as well.  
  
The Legend of Ananthazhvaar
Ananthazhvaar (Anantarya) was born on the Chitrai day in Chitrai in 1053AD in Kirangur (historically referred to as Siruputtur), on the banks of Cauvery, 2kms from Srirangapatna. After his early education in Kirangur, he went to Srirangam to be initiated into Vaishnavism by Ramanuja. Once when Ramanuja recited the verses of Namazhvaar on Thiruvengadam and his special liking for flowers, he asked if any of the disciples would take up the opportunity to grow a flower garden. When none accepted this offer, fearing the dangerous and the long route, Ananthazhvaar rose up and agreed to do the trip. Delighted at this response, Ramanuja called him out as ‘Ananta-anPillai’.

At Tirupathi, he created a garden with a well inside and also began personally digging a tank with his pregnant wife supporting him. When the Lord in the guise of a young boy put him to test by offering to help with the work, Ananthaanpillai refused saying that he is serving the Lord and that he cannot outsource the work to another.  Shortly after, when he found that the boy was helping his wife in the activity, he ran after the boy and threw the crow bar that hit his chin. The boy continued his run and locked himself in the sannidhi. When the door opened based on the priests request, Ananthazhvaan found the Lord bleeding from his chin. The Lord directed the chin mark to remain on his cheek so the devotees relate to the devotional commitment of Ananthazhvaan. Also, in memory of this event, to this day, the crow bar is hung below the main tower of the temple. 
When Ramanuja visited Tirupathi, he was delighted to watch the devotional work of Ananthazhvaar. Later when he found sadness of his disciple on hearing the news of his departure from Tirupathi, he handed to him an image of himself which was installed in a shrine within the temple.

After the death of Ramanuja, Ananthazhvaan spent an entire year in sadness shying away from the duties relating to the stringing of the flower garland for the Lord. Later, he initiated the presentation of Ramanuja Nootranthathi during the Adyayana Utsavam and also installed the image of Ramanuja at the temple.

In memory of his contribution, Ananthazhvaar is presented with a flower garland on the 8th day of the Puratasi Utsavam at the Tirupathi temple, a day earlier, the Lord makes a procession in the opposite- Apradakshina direction indicating the trip of the Lord and Thayar to the garden created by Ananthazhvaan. There are also images at the temple of Ananthazhvaar and his wife in recognition of their contributions. 

Great Contribution to his Acharya
Similar to Ananthazhvaar, who carried out the order of his preceptor Ramanuja and created a beautiful flower garden in Tirupathi and strung flower garlands for the Lord, his descendant Ananthacharya for the large part of his life has been committed to extol the virtues of the acharya and his years of perseverance has now translated into a sannidhi at his avathara sthalam in Kirangur where in memory of the acharya’s great service, Ananthacharya has also created a beautiful flower filled garden from where he presents flowers for his acharya each day of the year.  

Truly, this descendant of Ananthazhvaar has made a significant contribution to our tradition and his unflinching devotion to his acharya at 86 is remarkable.

BCCI Umpire quits IOB after 25years

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After serving the bank both as a player and a mentor- coach,  46 year old Rajesh Kannan (http://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2015/06/rajesh-kannan-bcci-board-umpire.html), a down-to-earth man from a humble middle class family in Madras who for many years during those early days in cricket boarded that infrequent 45B bus at the Saidapet bus stand to reach his cricket destination and came up the hard way in cricket facing many hurdles that would broken many a weaker mind, is quitting IOB exactly 25 years after he joined when he was handpicked by former TN opener and mentor for many at IOB V Krishnaswamy (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/08/krishnaswamy-v.html). 

Rajesh Kannan has quit the Bank just ahead of the long domestic cricket season. He follows in the footsteps of mentor and former teammate KN Ananthapadmanabhan (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2016/09/ananthapadmanabhan-kn.html) who just last year quit IOB. International umpire S Ravi (https://prtraveller.blogspot.com/2018/11/umpire-ravi-quits-rbi.html) too had quit his bank job at RBI a couple of years back.

In recent times, it had become increasingly difficult for him to straddle between the two careers – the pressures of a Deputy Manager at a bank branch, the physical challenges of sitting at the desk for several hours and the issues relating to that and his absence from the branch for many days with the growing number of matches for BCCI umpires and the related outstation travel involved in this engagement.
Once, Banks provided a stable career
In the decades gone by, Banks provided a stable long term job for cricketers, who usually settled down in the PSUs at the end of their playing days. There were those like Krishnaswamy who also grew professionally in the Bank after their playing career and scaled the peak in the Banking Career.

Not anymore.

Even in the just concluded TNPL, given the pressures of the bank job and the responsibilities he held at the branch, he was shuttling midweek between Tirunelveli/ Natham and Madras to take care of his work at the Besant Nagar Branch, where he has been working over the last year, and then returning a day later for his umpiring duty at the TNPL.

TNPL Final
Rajesh Kannan officiated as the third umpire in the final of the TNPL at Chepauk after a strong showing in the league phase of the tournament that earned him the respect of the players.

With the domestic calendar set to start next month and expected to be another long one, Rajesh Kannan is likely to be away on an Umpiring expedition going around the country over the next four months.

Rajesh Kannan's elder daughter is an upcoming carnatic music artiste and a student of Subha Ganesan
(http://sundaykutcheri.blogspot.com/2015/07/harini-presents-lively-sunday-kutcheri.html)
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